Restoring a Snap-on body hammer

[ECP]

Finally got a handle for it today:

The head fit pretty decent after some shaping the handle with the 2" grinder. After both wedges were in, she's all good. Just have to fill the cracks with some epoxy tomorrow and it's ready for work.

 

[afazz]

I got a few more hammers. This is a door skin hammer from ProBodyTools, I believe it's the same hammer that Matco sells now. They're made in Asia somewhere, they are copies of the Martin shapes but with some minor changes.

The wedge shape is a little different than both Snap-on and Martin

The whole hammer was clearcoated - handle, faces, everything. I sanded the clear off of the faces and sanded the handle down, it was too glossy and slick for my preferences.

The second one is an old Blue Point BF613, I think these were only made for a few years through the 1940s and maybe 50s.

I believe these had red heads instead of black, but I refinished it using the modern color scheme with a brand new 13" handle. More of a restomod than a true restoration.

I also re-handled the BF614 long pick hammer I picked up a few months back.

 

[Geurt]

First off; compliments on the awesome resto's on the hammers and dolly's!
Inspired me to take another good look at my hammer and dolly set. I bought them cheap from new a couple years ago. Have been using them quite a lot actually. I understand now why they were so cheap. The finish on the surfaces is poor, the shapes are poor and the handles like to come loose once in a while. Never stopped me from using them, but seeing this thread I got hooked...

So I hopped on the Dutch version of Craigslist and found my first descent hammer! Does anyone of you know what the brand could be? There is a crown with three points and the letters "C.D" engraved in the head and "171". I already cut the head of and sandblasted it. A new handle is on the way.

What to do with the old set? I think the hammers are not worth my time trying to fix, but the dolly's might be. What do the experts think?

 

[ZRX61]

Those dollies have some pretty sharp edges, I usually round them off a bit to prevent small creases in the sheet metal

 

[BHH]

This is one of the coolest threads I have seen in a while. Nice work for sure!

Can someone explain a little bit more about how these hammers work? I know they are for body work. I assume the flat part is for pounding metal flat but what is the spike side for?

 

[afazz]

Geurt that's some nice work so far, welcome to the addiction! I don't recognize the logo, but the octagon shaped handle is a nice feature. As for the old stuff, generally even the cheapest dollies are still worth using after some reshaping as ZRX61 suggested.

BHH - thanks for the compliments! You're correct the flat part is for pounding metal, the "spike" or pick side is also for pounding metal. Generally a pick hammer is used to knock down a tiny high spot or sometimes to lift a tiny low spot if you can access the back of a panel. Chisel and cross peen hammers are used to create creases, bends, or induce a linear stretch as you pound the metal. They are designed specifically for hammering on unhardened sheet, the faces are hardened steel and polished smooth so you don't mar the metal. The handles are lightweight for easier swinging because they don't require a ton of strength. Even the flat end comes in several different shapes or crowns depending on the geometry you're hammering on.

I bought another hammer today, this is the first "restoration" I have done on a brand new hammer! This is a Snap-on BF632A, new old stock from the truck with a 2003 date code. I don't like the fiberglass handles, so I cut it off!




I found this interesting. The handle eyes on the older hammers (BF6xx) are assembled as-forged with no finishing. This eye is clearly milled to its shape. I have never built another BF6xxA or BF6xxB hammer before, mabe this is standard on all the newer ones.


As it should have been from the factory!

 

[Bull]

Man, I love how you make these things look.

How many handle types does SO offer? I have a number of old hammers (not SO) that need new handles. How do you go about selecting the right handle for a given hammer?

 

[afazz]

Snap-on only sells three hickory handles; the 12", 13", and 17" length. They are all revision "R," there have been several different styles through the years but only the most recent is available. If you click on the link it shows which handle came with each head, but the eyes are all the same so really you can use any length handle on any hammer head.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=1765&store=snapon-store

The only ones that are different are the two fiberglass-only hammers, the BF632 (as shown above) and BF635 door skin hammer. The BF632 has the same eye as the hickory handles so that one is easy, I have never handled a BF635 but I suspect it's more like the Martin fiberglass door skin hammer. I think Martin makes their fiberglass handes, you can buy Martin replacements from McMaster Carr (#6689A71).

You can buy Matco, Martin (2 styles), Pro Body Tools, and Snap-on replacement handles pretty easily. All three have slightly different eye shapes in the head, check a few pages back for some comparison pics. The newest Martin handles and hammers are the same as the Pro Body Tools. You can always reshape them to fit the heads too, as ECP has done.

 

[BHH]

Thanks for the explanation afazz!

 

[ZRX61]

ok, here's mine..

2 *no-name* bludgeoners:

3 Protos, 8, 12 & a 24oz

2 Proto 1340's:

3 Proto's, 1425, 1427 & 1411:

6 Martins:

1 Streamline & not sure about the lower 2:

The bronze beast & a 8oz Channelock:

2 Fairmounts, Demon 12oz & a 12oz that just has *S* on it.

Re-arranged the drawer:

& put the 1340's in the welding box.

Harley tools, 2 need restoring & decent handles...

 

[Geurt]

Question for the experts!
I'm finishing up my first hammer resto. The faces are reworked and polished (up to P2000). Going to shoot some paint today. I finally received the handle (Snap-on BF603-2R) yesterday, Any tips on joining the two? My guess would be to first push the head all the way down on the handle and then insert the wooden wedge. Or do you push the wedge and the head down at same time?

 

[ZRX61]

Trim the handle to fill the hole, cut the slot for the wedge (almost the same depth as the hammerhead depth), pound that in, trim it flush, hammer the metal wedges in at 90deg to the wooden wedge.

 

[Geurt]

she's done!

now I need to find me some more hammers to do...

 

[afazz]

That looks excellent!

Here is another one I did a few months back, a Blue Point BF612.

Before:

Done!

Here is a comparison with a BF615 reverse curve hammer, it's about the same size. I think these are about 8oz.

Here is a comparison with a standard size hammer, BF608B curved chisel.

 

[Geurt]

For reference purpose; I found out the brand is Peddinghaus Cados. I'm currently chasing a set with four dolleys and another hammer. Hope to ****** it up and do some more resto work!

Does anyone of you know what the brand could be? There is a crown with three points and the letters "C.D" engraved in the head and "171".

 

[Geurt]

Got it!!
Came in a very cool case. The round face on the hammer is a shrinking face. They only need some good cleaning and some sanding with 600 to 2000 grit paper. Can't wait to use them.

 

[Geurt]

Finished the hammer from the set

 

[compyello]

I have heard of soaking a hammer head in anti-freeze to tighten them in regards to a pre assembled hammer. Also a question for the hammer guys, I am starting my body hammer collection and one I picked up is a fairmont but it has cracks in the face area. Can I weld these ok? MIG?

 

[jedigazza]

you are a true artisan!

 

[Mastermind]

thought i'd bring this one outta the depths...

looks like i got something to do with the slow time at work....thought my hammers were in good shape, need some polishing now that i see these.
my dollies desperately need some work. will take pics.

 

[afazz]

Isn't it crazy how Garage Journal can convince you that you NEED something you never knew existed?!?

I have a few more hammers in need of restoration, I might get around to them soon.

 

[2Tailfins]

Agreed- Now I am looking for body hammers!

 

[Grigg]

...The toe dolly is in very nice shape, looks like it was hardly used. Should be an easy resto. The other is a little more beat, but definitely usable. Both are unmarked as far as brands... but I figured a chunk of steel is a chunk of steel, and after a little work on them; what's the difference? Got em both for $20...

Not in my book, I've collected a several dollies and some are cast iron and soft, they easily dent and mark, they're junk.
Good Dollies are hardened (hammers too).

In a much earlier post about finishing an unfinished forging I'm curious if it was soft?
I've finished two body hammers that were raw forgings, turned and polished the faces and then had a friend harden/temper them for me. They're really nice all done, one of them is my go to hammer these days.

I to really like the Snap-on handles, 8 sided, I almost always use them when restoring/fixing a body hammer of any brand.

Another idea for your body tools is a hammer rack, I made one and it's been real handy, should have made it long ago.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2535453#post2535308


Grigg

 

[Geurt]

Somehow I can't control myself buying more hammers. Is there a medicine? Already ordered new handles for them.

 

[nine4gmc]

seriously

 

[Geurt]

Don´t mean to hijack the thread but I got an awesome deal on this bunch. Paid the euro equivalent of 65 dollars for this:
- 2 Gedore hammers
- 2 Belzer hammers
- 1 USAG deadblow
- 4 Gedore dolly's

Not much work to make em look nice. I'm only doubting to change the handles. They are all in descent condition, but I like the shape of the Snap-on handles. They are nicer to work with. Any advice?

 

[stylee]

I would leave the hammers alone. Maybe clean or polish the faces if you want. The two on the left look like they already have snap-on/ proto style handles. The other handles look like they'd be nice to use too. I personally like used or lightly used original tools vs. new or restored ones. That is a nice collection you have. I really like that dolly on the middle right, and the hammer on the far left. Congratulations on your find!

 

[Dieselbutterfly]

awessome work,very inspirational

 

[Geurt]

I would leave the hammers alone. Maybe clean or polish the faces if you want. The two on the left look like they already have snap-on/ proto style handles. The other handles look like they'd be nice to use too. I personally like used or lightly used original tools vs. new or restored ones. That is a nice collection you have. I really like that dolly on the middle right, and the hammer on the far left. Congratulations on your find!

I get your point. I also like the originality factor. Point here is they will be used. And with the first hammers I did I used the Snap-on handles. These are a bit longer and maybe twice as thick. Having somewhat bigger hands they are nicer to work with. I'll probably leave the old handles on for now. I can always change them. They will get the full sand an polish treatment tough!

 

[Geurt]

Got some new handles

 

[maddawg308]

Love following this thread - awesome restorations of nice body hammers...

 

[Geurt]

Finished the sanding and polishing on these ones. Gonna shoot some paint on these tomorrow.

 

[Geurt]

paint

 

[Geurt]

Ready for duty

 

[Hammer1963]

Geurt, great looking work. Once you start this obsession, it's hard to shake it.

 

[Monte]

nice work !

 

[Geurt]

cleaned, sanded, polished, done!

 

[Lejo]

I bought this, what appears to be, stretching hammer for a few Euro's. The ends were pretty damaged. I have no idea how it was used by previous owners, but both sides, wich should be rounded, were completely hammered flat. I have re-ground and polished the ends and sanded the handle. I have re-used the original metal wedge for the handle. I don't know how long it will look like this, for I am going to us it. I found a chip of yellow paint in one of the deep scratches which looked like an original paint left over, hence the yellow finish.

 

[Geurt]

Funky hammer en nice work man!

 

[oneandgone]

It's definitely unique! Nice find and good work!