So I bought this Welder for $20.00! It works like a champ now I want to make it look pretty. The front looks like it was hit pretty good. The front face is actually bent. The rest is really straight. Where the heck would a guy take this part if he wanted to get it straightened out? I would try but I don't want to make it worse. (Body work is not my thing). So where should I go? A fabricator or auto body place or what. I live in a small town so my options are limited.... Thanks
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Restoring an old Welder need bodywork..
- Thread starter ls1jay
- Start date
I would go to a smaller type one man operation body shop that is willing to work with you. a large shop wont be too concerened with that small job. or try to find a guy that does body work on the sidde from home.
Oh, and probably you should strip it and just take the panels
Oh, and probably you should strip it and just take the panels
rsanter
Well-known member
Fix it yourself. Hammer and dolly work.
Find a piece of pipe or solid rod that will fit inside that curve.
Put it in from the back with the panel face down on a hard flat surface.
Plywood or particle board can work but may be better to use one of those nylon white cutting boards. Hit the pipe to try to bring the dent out as much as you can.
Then turn it over and use the pipe as a dolly as you hammer the high spots from the front to perfect the shape.
You should be able to get it close as it does not look too bad
Bob
Find a piece of pipe or solid rod that will fit inside that curve.
Put it in from the back with the panel face down on a hard flat surface.
Plywood or particle board can work but may be better to use one of those nylon white cutting boards. Hit the pipe to try to bring the dent out as much as you can.
Then turn it over and use the pipe as a dolly as you hammer the high spots from the front to perfect the shape.
You should be able to get it close as it does not look too bad
Bob
Zeke
Well-known member
Just be sure you don't stretch or work harden the metal while doing this. The less hammer blows the better. AFA taking it to a body shop those folks aren't the only ones that "bump" metal. I do it all the time and the last car I beat on was nearly 10 years ago.Fix it yourself. Hammer and dolly work.
Find a piece of pipe or solid rod that will fit inside that curve.
Put it in from the back with the panel face down on a hard flat surface.
Plywood or particle board can work but may be better to use one of those nylon white cutting boards. Hit the pipe to try to bring the dent out as much as you can.
Then turn it over and use the pipe as a dolly as you hammer the high spots from the front to perfect the shape.
You should be able to get it close as it does not look too bad
Bob
Awesome recommendations! Thanks! If I end up taking it somewhere I was definitely going to remove the panel. I may give it a shot myself. I was just worried about ruining the metal, Work hardening/stretching or making it un-proportional...
ZRX61
Well-known member
(assuming you will remove the cover..) Got a belt sander? Shape a piece of hardwood to fit the contour & hammer it into the dent from the back..
Roberts210
Well-known member
That Lincoln IdealArc AC/DC is a great welder! And $20 is an astounding price to pay for it. You really lucked out.
Zeke
Well-known member
(assuming you will remove the cover..) Got a belt sander? Shape a piece of hardwood to fit the contour & hammer it into the dent from the back..
That's one way to do it but you will leave goose bumps with the hammer. Better to use something hard. That's why dollies are high quality steel.
The secret to metal bumping is to understand how the damage occurred and reverse the process. So you start on the outside edges of the dent and move all around working your way to the center which was the first place struck by whatever dented the metal to begin with. That's in most cases. You have to determine where that spot is and work from the outside to that spot.
In the case of the welder, I'd either use a flat bar on the outside or something with a slight concave curvature. One reason to not have a form that fits the original outside profile is so you can use the 'off dolly' bumping process.
countryroad82
Well-known member
Zeke you hit the nail on the head! I was taught that technique as first in last out. Wherever it got whacked in first is the last part out.
Last edited:
Zeke
Well-known member
fifyZeke, you hit the nail on the head! I was taught that technique as first in last out. Wherever it got whacked in first is the last part out.
You can do it!! Make up an appropriate sized "T" dolly like this...
https://www.google.ca/search?q=t+do...=qU8IV5_nEMrl-AHa9LyIDw#imgrc=kxWfGCmwnIi4NM:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=t+do...=qU8IV5_nEMrl-AHa9LyIDw#imgrc=kxWfGCmwnIi4NM:
Provincial
Well-known member
I'll give you the first "you ****" for your purchase! Even with the cosmetic damage, you got a steal! I have one just like it that I picked up 25 years ago. It has been a great stick welder for me, and I find that it runs an air arc very well, too!
Lots of good advice so far.
Remember, this is a piece of equipment, so a little bondo won't hurt. Get it close with the sheet metal work, and finish up by bringing up the last low spots with the bondo.
The "sheet"metal of this welder face plate is quite thick, so it is both harder to straighten and has more material to file down to take out small bumps.
Before you take the front off, keep track of the position of the indicator and the movable core in the transformer. Make reference points so you can get it back together in the same relationship.
Lots of good advice so far.
Remember, this is a piece of equipment, so a little bondo won't hurt. Get it close with the sheet metal work, and finish up by bringing up the last low spots with the bondo.
The "sheet"metal of this welder face plate is quite thick, so it is both harder to straighten and has more material to file down to take out small bumps.
Before you take the front off, keep track of the position of the indicator and the movable core in the transformer. Make reference points so you can get it back together in the same relationship.
countryroad82
Well-known member
fify
I am really tired of spell checks automatic suggestions that I don't catch in time. Who would think it would change Zeke into a $hitty a$$ game name. I hated that game as a child.........
ZRX61
Well-known member
That's one way to do it but you will leave goose bumps with the hammer. Better to use something hard. That's why dollies are high quality steel.
The secret to metal bumping is to understand how the damage occurred and reverse the process. So you start on the outside edges of the dent and move all around working your way to the center which was the first place struck by whatever dented the metal to begin with. That's in most cases. You have to determine where that spot is and work from the outside to that spot.
In the case of the welder, I'd either use a flat bar on the outside or something with a slight concave curvature. One reason to not have a form that fits the original outside profile is so you can use the 'off dolly' bumping process.
er yeah, I know all that. I've been doing this **** for decades. but the OP said he wasn't experienced at tin bashing.