Restoring old Clamps

[Maddog1337]

Hi GJ,

I purchased some old Jorgensen and Vice Grip 'Quick Grip' bar clamps the other day. All USA made. I paid $110 for the lot so I think I did pretty well.

The clamps are a bit rusty but overall in great shape. None of them are stuck.
I was thinking about restoring them as close to factory as possible - removing the rust, repainting, etc.

I'm still very new to the tool world and just wanted some critique on my approach.

For the rust, I was thinking about purchasing either a bench grinder or a right angle die grinder, I'm not sure if a sander would work? Or just some vinegar and steel wool. I'm probably leaning towards a pneumatic die grinder though. I really don't want to damage the metal though so is there a better tool to use?

For the 'Quick Grip' clamps, some of them stick a bit, or the mechanism isn't smooth.. I'm not sure if it's the rust on the bars or something internal needs to be lubricated. Is there a way to open them up? I didn't see any screws unless they're under the sticker.

Thanks in advance

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[MFolks]

A wire wheel on a drill(air or electric) with eye protection, will remove most rust,wipe down with light oil when done, a nice selection of clamps,a Man cannot have too many of those.

 

[lilredex]

Just rub down the bars on the left five with some medium sand paper, blow them off and call it a day. The others look quite usable as is. Use minimal oil on those pinch dogs and the threads of the others.

 

[georgiadave]

Oil and paint are not always best for woodworking tools. Residue can affect the finishing of the piece.

 

[toolmiser]

Maybe a little wd-40 if you need to. I've always struggled with the surface rust also but never have found a solution. They never get very bad either. Unless you are getting them wet, I wouldn't worry about them.

BTW, that was a great purchase! You won't wear the Jorgensen's out in your lifetime. They are heavy to use but a very good clamp. You can always reverse the "clutches" if they wear too bad, but it will take a lot.

 

[toolmiser]

I did repaint a couple that someone had did a color swap. I used Krylon color maxx paint/primer spray in Gloss Pumkin Orange. It was a pretty good match. I originally thought it was Chevy Engine orange but that was way too red.

 

[sberry]

Scotchbrite, maroon.

 

[ALinCarolina]

Agree with everyone else. Nix the grinder, that is way overkill and the clamps may slip from too much clearance.

 

[Steve_P]

Evapo-rust

 

[Prospecter]

Maybe hand wire brush? I actually don't like to get my wood clamps too spiffy, because sometimes they do not grab as well. Maybe a little light oil on the mechanism if it is sticking, and wipe off the excess? That's all I do.

 

[Crabman]

Evapo-rust

x2

I have had good luck on a variety of tools with it.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Wire wheel or don't bother. No point in removing metal.

 

[Marctrees]

No NO NO - Anykind of lube or spray containing Silicone.

Even just microscopic residual amounts can cause "Fisheye" hell on future projects.

Marc

 

[d.mcfarland]

Wire wheel or don't bother. No point in removing metal.

Wire wheels remove metal though.

 

[Maddog1337]

Evapo-rust

Living in the rust-belt and never heard of this stuff. Non-toxic. Interesting. It's about $7 a quart so I'm going to give it a try. Maybe with some 0000 steel wool.

Obviously I'm interested in the functionality of these clamps... But, I am also interested in the vanity aspect - aesthetics that is.

I think I'll try to match them with some enamel black and orange paint.

Maybe WD-40 them for rust-proofing or I read a light coat of automotive wax. I use Collinite 845.

I also want to cut out some leather pads for them. HJE sells some, but they're a bit too small for my use.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Wire wheels remove metal though.

Insignificant amounts compared to sandpaper and other abrasives. Yeah, they can take off edges, but they lack the bit for large surfaces. Finer/softer wires helps as well.

 

[4xdog]

Evapo-Rust is terrific stuff -- I use it all the time.

But it's different from some other rust conversion products you might have worked with, Maddog1337. A quart ain't gonna go very far.

Evapo-Rust works well when the piece can be immersed. It's not the kind of stuff you can brush or spray on and later rinse off like some of the phosphoric acid rust removers (e.g. old skoole Naval Jelly). It's gentler and slower and needs an excess of fluid to do what is most likely a reduction reaction on the oxide.

Evapo-Rust can be re-used for a time, but when it gets really black it's exhausted and should be pitched.

For the straight sections of your long clamps it might work to put them in a length of PVC pipe with Evapo-Rust for a day or two, taking them out partway to rinse/brush off the black powdery residue from the reduced iron oxide.

For some cheaply plated metals Evapo-Rust can darken the finish. It's generally fine on chrome if there's no underlying rust.

All that said, I'd be tempted to start with something like WD-40 and a medium Scotch-Brite pad. I wouldn't rush to a wire wheel or abrasive paper unless the corrosion is a lot more severe and a lot deeper than it looks in your photos.

 

[ddawg16]

Soak them in Vinegar.....then rub with a 3M scratch pad.

You will need to wipe the shafts with something to prevent rust.

I'm a fan of ****** fluid. The metal seems to soak it up. Damp a rag and rub away.....then rub off any excess. When you can wipe with a clean cloth and not see anything...good to go.

 

[seber]

Stay away from power brushing and any kind of lubricant. One removes metal the other impedes grip. Evaporust is nice but it will take at least a gallon to soak those due to length. Vinegar is cheap and effective. It just takes longer. For the quick grips, I agree with nonwoven abrasive for the quick grips.

 

[ddawg16]

Stay away from power brushing and any kind of lubricant. One removes metal the other impedes grip. Evaporust is nice but it will take at least a gallon to soak those due to length. Vinegar is cheap and effective. It just takes longer. For the quick grips, I agree with nonwoven abrasive for the quick grips.

I've had 0 issues using lubricant on mine.

The way those clamps work, oil does not hurt....the only potential issue is if there is too much, it attracts dust/dirt.

Like I said, wipe them real well with transmission fluid.....it seems to soak into the metal...especially right after cleaning them with vinegar.

 

[RTM]

Living in the rust-belt and never heard of this stuff. Non-toxic. Interesting. It's about $7 a quart so I'm going to give it a try. Maybe with some 0000 steel wool.

I would suggest ScotchBrite pads. Steel wool can leave particles, which can rust. DAMHIKT

Evapo-Rust works well when the piece can be immersed. ... It's gentler and slower and needs an excess of fluid to do what is most likely a reduction reaction on the oxide.

I have put the parts in a bag, with a small amount of Evaporust, and conform the bag to fit the part, and have had great results. I was doing rods about 6" x 1/2", and got away with about 1/4 cup. Have not tried it with something long like clamps yet.

I've had 0 issues using lubricant on mine.

I am not a fan of any oil, too much chance of transfer to the item being clamped. As someone mentioned above, silicone can lead to a finishing nightmare. Oil is just annoying. Paraffin wax is my choice, I prefer it over beeswax, which tends to feel sticky to me. And removes easily with mineral spirits

 

[Steve_P]

You need to soak in evapo-rust for hours. Buy at least a gallon

 

[Marctrees]

This reminds me of the How to remove paint from a screwdriver blade thread.

Marc

 

[Maddog1337]

Another quick question. I have five of these clamps to restore. Most of them have the clips broken. Is that the right term for them? It's the clip inside the clamp housing with the metal tabs. Does anyone know where I can buy these? I'm assuming Jorgensen doesn't make them anymore ever since they moved production to China... Perhaps it's something I could make myself but would prefer to buy them. Any help would be appreciated!!

 

[toolmiser]

I'm not sure that the company that bought out Jorgensen still makes that style of clamp. I could be wrong (usually am) but I think that Bessey makes a clamp that is very similar to yours. Might be a chance part.