restoring old drill presses

[Kody302]

Hey guys,

I've been looking at buying a bigger drill press to replace my small and under powered skill, and I've been looking at all the old drill presses on here and I'd like to find a old walker turner or craftsman just for the cool factor and it'd be a fun project for me and my future wife to do together. The only thing is I'm a little worried about a older press not being very accurate? How are you guys dealing with the run out and what not on the older drill presses you restore? Or once it gets the woobles it always has the woobles?

Thanks
Kody

 

[plow]

http://shreveport.craigslist.org/tls/4579591941.html


FWIW.

 

[Fretters]

The only thing is I'm a little worried about a older press not being very accurate? How are you guys dealing with the run out and what not on the older drill presses you restore? Or once it gets the woobles it always has the woobles?

You'll find that an old drill is superior in every way to any imported piece of tat you can get today. Those usually have runout from day one, (I once briefly had one, and got rid of it after the first time I tried using it. It was dreadful). Unless you get an old unit with worn bearings or a bent quill, you shouldn't have any discernible play or runout.

 

[Davefr]

Hey guys,

...and it'd be a fun project for me and my future wife to do together.

And she's agreed to help??

1. Don't buy any old drill press until it's thoroughly evaluated. Check runout at the chuck and spindle with a dial indicator. Chucks are easily replaced but a bent spindle can be a showstopper. (unobtainium and even some bearings are proprietary and extremely hard to get)

2. Some old DP's only have a very limited speed range. (many were designed primarily for woodworking). If you're intending to do metal work then consider the RPM range before you buy. (drilling large holes in steel requires very low RPM, drilling small holes in metal requires very high RPM)

3. Table elevation is a critical feature IMHO. Many of these old ones don't have a table lift feature. That makes them a total PIA to use unless you rarely adjust elevation. Table tilt is also very nice to have.

Unless your primarily a woodworker, I'd start the search for higher end 17" DP's designed for metalwork.

 

[Kody302]

I can attest to that in way. We have a ancient (at least early 50's) Rockwell delta at work and it works good but does have some slight run out but has been very abused and leads me to wonder if a press could ever be repaired to it's original state if it's been abused.

I found a craftsman I want to say it's a model 150 for $150 but it's over a hour and half away. Do you guys think it's worth the drive?

 

[Kody302]

And she's agreed to help??



1. Don't buy any old drill press until it's thoroughly evaluated. Check runout at the chuck and spindle with a dial indicator. Chucks are easily replaced but a bent spindle can be a showstopper. (unobtainium and even some bearings are proprietary and extremely hard to get)



2. Some old DP's only have a very limited speed range. (many were designed primarily for woodworking). If you're intending to do metal work then consider the RPM range before you buy. (drilling large holes in steel requires very low RPM, drilling small holes in metal requires very high RPM)



3. Table elevation is a critical feature IMHO. Many of these old ones don't have a table lift feature. That makes them a total PIA to use unless you rarely adjust elevation. Table tilt is also very nice to have.



Unless your primarily a woodworker, I'd start the search for higher end 17" DP's designed for metalwork.

She said she'd love to do a project like this as long as I helped her.

I do almost nothing but metal work. And thanks for the pointers. My current press is just way to small and it ***** in every way lol.

 

[Davefr]

I found a craftsman I want to say it's a model 150 for $150 but it's over a hour and half away. Do you guys think it's worth the drive?

That's a decent price assuming it's in great shape. It just wouldn't be high on my list for doing metal work.

 

[Outlawmws]

Runnout can be had generally from two places: bent spindle, or worn bearings. bearings are easy. spindle less so.

A loose quill can also give grief and many import DPs have that disease.

Several options for not having a table lift probably the most common is a counter weight. Look at franks Craftsman DP thread for a clean job there.


Some have added the third pulley sheave for added speeds.

Another option for "fixing" the limited speed range of the old 4 and 5 speed presses is a treadmill motor. I took that path:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224

 

[454ragtop]

As far as runout on a quality American made drill press goes, if new bearings don't fix it, some gentile persuasion with a hammer or rod in the chuck usually will. Have straightened a bunch this way. Roughly what part of the country are you in? If planning for mostly metal work, look for a drill that goes down to at least 350 RPM, and lower is better. I pretty much insist on a table raiser also, but that's up to you. One of the best home shop metal working drills is the Delta Rockwell 17", a real drill press that will likely outlast you.
Good luck, Jim

 

[Kody302]

So basically the latest is, I talked the guy down to $150 and he claims it works great and he just put new belts and pulleys on it. Not to sure about the new pulleys but whatever. The biggest thing is it's over a hour and half drive to get it. Should I keep looking or is it worth the drive?