Restoring Wilton Bullet Vise

[afeef745]

Was able to get this one at an auction this past winter. Would like to restore it to its former glory. Would really appreciate if I can get some guidance on the best way to do so. Willing to put in time and effort on this vise.

One issue with this vise is the bottom swivel base is rusted on the vise and I cant get it loose as one of the bolts is rusted shut. Any advise on how to free this up?

Briefly searched on youtube and its overwhelming to see all those videos and not know where to start. Thanks in advance.

 

[rlitman]

Nice combination vise. I'd apply some penetrating oil to the bolt from underneath, give it a day or two to soak in, and if that doesn't do it, heat up the nut with a torch.

 

[afeef745]

Nice combination vise. I'd apply some penetrating oil to the bolt from underneath, give it a day or two to soak in, and if that doesn't do it, heat up the nut with a torch.

Already tried both of that. The bolt head doesnt let any PB blaster go to the threads I believe. Heating with torch didnt work either.

 

[Will S.]

Try setting the vise in a shallow tray of equal parts of kerosene, acetone, mineral spirits and Dextron ATF. Let it soak for a day or two. That should do it. Of course take safety precautions when you do this; eye protection, rubber gloves and of course no sparks or open flames anywhere nearby, as this stuff is flammable.

The other thing that works to free rusted parts is Wintergreen oil, available from your local drugstore. So if one doesn't work (but I bet it does), the other one will.

 

[exmaxima1]

Already tried both of that. The bolt head doesnt let any PB blaster go to the threads I believe. Heating with torch didnt work either.

Keep adding some fresh PB Blaster and tap on the nut with a small hammer to help loosen the rust.

 

[The Cobbler]

yes, a good soaking will go along way, also more heat will work. but if you can submerse it in penetrating oil, it will loosen. some good taps with a soft jaw hammer to help break it free too. then work in back & forth, ...patience is a virtue

 

[Skin]

Heating with torch didnt work either.

Then you didn't get it hot enough. No reason why that wont pop free after getting it cherry red.

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

I have restored a few of these never had a swivel lock stuck. Try more heat let it cool spray some Kroil on it stuff works pretty good. Rap it with a hammer a few times.

 

[evintho]

Here's a write-up I did on my Wilton cadet 4" a while back. Maybe it'll be helpful.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42888&showall=1

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I just did this: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=418968

A few of the bolts on my where rusted solid and no penetrating oil helped. I found the easiest way to get them out was to get them red hot with a touch and they then spun right out.

 

[Man of Many Vices]

There are many fine examples of vises on Garage Journal that have been restored to perfection; fabulous paint jobs with contrasting raised lettering. I wish I had those skills. But, even better, in my opinion, are those that still wears the original paint, even if neglected over the years. Yours is one step above that because its decal is in such great shape. A seller at a recent swap meet was charging a premium for his bullet because it still had the decal. I'd go easy on the cleanup to preserve the original finish.

 

[Maui]

If you have a large enough piece of pipe that will fit over the head of the swivel lock barrel you could drill holes on both sides of the pipe about an inch or so from the end. Use a hack saw to cut down to those two holes, and slip the piece of pipe over the swivel lock barrel and over the handle. If you selected the right hole diameter the fit should be very good over the handle. Thread a "T" on the other end of the pipe and insert whatever handle length on it that you want. This will give you a much greater mechanical advantage to break the swivel lock free.

Maui

 

[afeef745]

Thanks a lot for all the info. 2 follow up questions:

1. Is PB Blaster considered a penetrating oil mentioned above? Thats what I used before on the vise. If not, kindly recommend a good penetrating oil.

2. If I go the heating route, and heat the lock nut up to cherry, will I still be able to re-use it after emoving rust?

Thanks a lot

 

[Skin]

yes to both
When you get that hot enough use a piece of pipe, socket with an extension, or box end of a wrench to give yourself a bit more leverage on the bar. It should take much force.

 

[afeef745]

I am leaning towards buying 1 gallon of PB blaster and soaking the base of vise in it for few days, and then making some sort of metal pipe T device to try get it unlocked.

If that doesnt work, will try to heat it up with a torch. Would a propane torch be enough to get it cherry red hot? or do I need MAP-PRO instead?

Thanks for all the info in this thread. Much appreciated.

 

[AngryBeaver]

the handle is already bent, put a cheat pipe on it and give it a whack with a big hammer. don't make a mountain out of a mole hill.

 

[afeef745]

the handle is already bent, put a cheat pipe on it and give it a whack with a big hammer. don't make a mountain out of a mole hill.

It was bent when I bought it. But I did bent it little further though. Whats a cheat pipe?

Would propane torch be hot enough to get it to cherry red hot?

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Yours is a picnic compared to mine.

 

[isb cornbinder]

My dad used to say, "Work smart is easier than working hard."
EVAPORUST works really well. Put the vise in a large plastic bag then fill the bag with Evaporust. 24 hours and the vise should be free. I have a 30 liter ultrasonic tank for cleaning and derusting The de-rust time is reduced to an hour or less. .

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

My dad used to say, "Work smart is easier than working hard."
EVAPORUST works really well. Put the vise in a large plastic bag then fill the bag with Evaporust. 24 hours and the vise should be free. I have a 30 liter ultrasonic tank for cleaning and derusting The de-rust time is reduced to an hour or less. .

Are you sealing the bag before soaking? Does that make a difference?

 

[isb cornbinder]

Pull the bag tight as you can around the project vise. Try to bring the Evaporust to where it covers the vise. This may reduce the amount of product you need. Sealing the bag may not make Evaporust work better or faster. If you tie the bag it controls the top and raises the level inside.
I can truly say Evaporust works better than advertised.
If you have access to an ultrasonic parts cleaner, the bag with the vise and the Evaporust can be submerged in the ultrasonic tank if it is filled with water. The plastic bag will not obstruct the ultrasonic action. This is one way to save on buying more Evaporust to fill the tank.

 

[Tim Wells]

Go to harbor freight and get a couple jugs of "Evaporust". Best thing I've ever seen for what you're doing. Soak it and let the juice do the work. If you're patient it'll be slick as a bell pepper when you rinse it off.

 

[afeef745]

I had the vise soak in PB Blaster (sitting in pan) for a week. I first tried using a pipe make out of aluminum to create a cheat pipe but it wasnt strong enough.

So I cut apart a 7/8 inch deep well socket to create a cheat pipe, put it on breaker bar and then about foot and half long pipe to extend it. And it came loose finally.

Now cleaning the vise up and gonna put it together in next few weeks. Thanks a lot to all those who responded to this thread.