I picked up a Starrett cable cutter a few weeks back at a farm swap meet because it was $5, the reason being it was rusted solid. At home I soaked it in WD40 for several weeks while smacking it around with a ball peen.
After 3 weeks and it wouldn't loosen I decided to try to pry it open by wedging small steel wedges and chisels between the plunger body and the dies the blade passes between.
I was glad to have a large selection of wedges and chisels because I had to work the plunger all the way out so had to stack the wedges right to the end.
Once the plunger was out I sharpened the blade, first with files then emery cloth. These blades are only about a 1/16" thick and they slide between to hardened dies. You can see the shape of the blade in this shot and the dies are the reverse so when the steel cable is inserted the dies and blade are kind of wrapped around the cable. The outer edges of the blade slip between the 2 die halves so the blade is guided between them with no room for flex. The further the blade travels the more it disappears between the dies.
Plunger in vise with blade still attached with the pin
Starrett 1st made these in 1928 in 3 sizes, up to 3/4", up to 1 - 1/16" and 1 - 1/2" with the small and large ones being somewhat rare while the medium size is quite common. There are 3 - 1/2" holes through the base plate that allow you to spike the tool down on a stump and then you smack it as hard as you can with a 10 lb or larger sledge. This will cleanly cut the cable in one or two hits. It's best to put a bit of a whipping on the cable on each side of the cut so the cable doesn't fray out when cut.
I see these at swap meets for $20 - $25 (middle size) usually and they're great for cutting cable. Angle grinders with zip discs do the job too but this way there's no sparks or power needed. I've cut hundreds of feet of cable with these without needing to sharpen the blades. For anyone needing to cut steel cable these are a great tool.
HERE is a link to more info.
After 3 weeks and it wouldn't loosen I decided to try to pry it open by wedging small steel wedges and chisels between the plunger body and the dies the blade passes between.
I was glad to have a large selection of wedges and chisels because I had to work the plunger all the way out so had to stack the wedges right to the end.
Once the plunger was out I sharpened the blade, first with files then emery cloth. These blades are only about a 1/16" thick and they slide between to hardened dies. You can see the shape of the blade in this shot and the dies are the reverse so when the steel cable is inserted the dies and blade are kind of wrapped around the cable. The outer edges of the blade slip between the 2 die halves so the blade is guided between them with no room for flex. The further the blade travels the more it disappears between the dies.
Plunger in vise with blade still attached with the pin
Starrett 1st made these in 1928 in 3 sizes, up to 3/4", up to 1 - 1/16" and 1 - 1/2" with the small and large ones being somewhat rare while the medium size is quite common. There are 3 - 1/2" holes through the base plate that allow you to spike the tool down on a stump and then you smack it as hard as you can with a 10 lb or larger sledge. This will cleanly cut the cable in one or two hits. It's best to put a bit of a whipping on the cable on each side of the cut so the cable doesn't fray out when cut.
I see these at swap meets for $20 - $25 (middle size) usually and they're great for cutting cable. Angle grinders with zip discs do the job too but this way there's no sparks or power needed. I've cut hundreds of feet of cable with these without needing to sharpen the blades. For anyone needing to cut steel cable these are a great tool.
HERE is a link to more info.