Ya I know its, "Garage Journal" but has anyone needed to use Allen block or similar? I'm shopping for a product. Any testamonials. Why is it when you start a project you become an engineer. I find out way more than I want to, or think I need to, to do any frigon' project I start.
Retaing Wall
- Thread starter lo c dan
- Start date
Shocker
Well-known member
I used the Windsor blocks available at Home Depot for a wall at my last house. Worked great. Check Craigslist as there is always someone selling them for less.
Not the best pic but the only one i could find. The planter on the left are smaller blocks and not versa-lok.
I think you will find that most retaining wall blocks are regional products that local block companies buy the rights to make. Look for a local cement block supplier.
I think you will find that most retaining wall blocks are regional products that local block companies buy the rights to make. Look for a local cement block supplier.
SOA-Nova
Member
Here is a link to some shots of the wall I built in front of my house back in 2004 and further towards the end of the album there are shots of the work I've been doing since last fall on the back section in the back yard. The weather turned bad so I'm now in a holding pattern but at least I can let the fill settle and compact so that this spring when I finish filling the area it will not sink down as much.
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/551434996yQeXVf
The company I got mine from locally was from Lemay Block (lemayblock.com) . I don't know the brand they make but they have a lot of variations on colors, sizes, and styles. I got the 6" x 18" and if I remember right they weighed about 68 lbs each.
From what I understand is you want a concrete mix with the higher PSI rating. The lower the number the more water that can get inside and then freeze and eventually break down the block to a pile of rubble. I've seen some walls here locally with stones supplied by different suppliers and they are slowly disingrating.
I did my own work but got guidance from two freinds in the retaining wall business. The biggest thing is a solid/level base. After this all the stones stack up. Put the correct base and thickness under your first course of base block and spend the time with a level making sure it's right. Also pay attention to your seams so that every other row the seams line up to each other (makes it look good).
This fall on the side of the house it took me 8 hours or so to get the base stone just right but the next day it only took a few hours to make the wall 4 courses high.
The stones I have are made two ways. One is a base block with the top and bottom smooth and a builder stone. These have a 1" tab on them to set them back 1" from the stone below so the wall is staggered backwards into the fill behind them.
Like anything else try and get all of the stone at one time so the batch color stays the same. If you buy some at one time and then more another time the colors may be off some.
Jim
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/551434996yQeXVf
The company I got mine from locally was from Lemay Block (lemayblock.com) . I don't know the brand they make but they have a lot of variations on colors, sizes, and styles. I got the 6" x 18" and if I remember right they weighed about 68 lbs each.
From what I understand is you want a concrete mix with the higher PSI rating. The lower the number the more water that can get inside and then freeze and eventually break down the block to a pile of rubble. I've seen some walls here locally with stones supplied by different suppliers and they are slowly disingrating.
I did my own work but got guidance from two freinds in the retaining wall business. The biggest thing is a solid/level base. After this all the stones stack up. Put the correct base and thickness under your first course of base block and spend the time with a level making sure it's right. Also pay attention to your seams so that every other row the seams line up to each other (makes it look good).
This fall on the side of the house it took me 8 hours or so to get the base stone just right but the next day it only took a few hours to make the wall 4 courses high.
The stones I have are made two ways. One is a base block with the top and bottom smooth and a builder stone. These have a 1" tab on them to set them back 1" from the stone below so the wall is staggered backwards into the fill behind them.
Like anything else try and get all of the stone at one time so the batch color stays the same. If you buy some at one time and then more another time the colors may be off some.
Jim
I have used Allen Blocks and they worked great. Take extra time on the first row and get it right and the rest will be easy.
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houstonhusker
Well-known member
I put myself through college building retaining walls for a landscape company. I can second the Versa-Lok comment...great product with pins but they are very heavy (which is good...just watch your back). The main thing with any retaining wall is to make sure you have a good level base and great drainage behind the wall. Depending how high up your going, you'll also want to consider a grid behind the wall for soil reinforcement....but if you're only doing let's say a 3 ft wall...then no need. All manufactures will tell you when you'll need to use soil reinforcement fabric/grid...so just follow the directions. It's actually pretty simple. Once you have the bottom level perfect...it's smooth sailing from there. Good luck!
rburke65
Well-known member
The reason you become an engineer when you start a project is that it is always more involved than it appears. It always looks easier than it is. There is a lot of experience and knowledge behind a job done well.
bigjmcconnell
Active member
Re: Retaining Wall
Nice work in the pictures you guys posted.
I hope you don't mind a little thread hijack. Speaking of getting r done cheap...I got some 12" wide split face block cheap and decided to use it to build a retaining wall behind my garage. I did a nice footer and everything is straight and level but I don't know how well this type of block is going to do being dry stacked. My plan is to offset back 1" per course and fill the block with stone to hold things together. Problem is that these block lack the locking features of the Allen block. I've got the french drain going in even though its probably not needed in my super sandy soil.
Anybody think this will work or fall over
Nice work in the pictures you guys posted.
I hope you don't mind a little thread hijack. Speaking of getting r done cheap...I got some 12" wide split face block cheap and decided to use it to build a retaining wall behind my garage. I did a nice footer and everything is straight and level but I don't know how well this type of block is going to do being dry stacked. My plan is to offset back 1" per course and fill the block with stone to hold things together. Problem is that these block lack the locking features of the Allen block. I've got the french drain going in even though its probably not needed in my super sandy soil.
Anybody think this will work or fall over
We have built walls using the Keystone system, 8" tall by 18" wide about 90 lbs.
per block, using fiberglas pins, and the Rockwoods which have a built in lug on the
bottom of the block to prevent movement.
Starting and keeping the first course level is the key. Also as mentioned above
drainage and aggregate backfill is a must for longevity.
Many of the newer flower bed blocks are attractive at first glance because of the
low price, but the number it takes to equal the coverage of the larger units and the
fact that they don't have a pin or lug system to prevent shifting, actually make them
not a very good choice for a true retaining wall.
per block, using fiberglas pins, and the Rockwoods which have a built in lug on the
bottom of the block to prevent movement.
Starting and keeping the first course level is the key. Also as mentioned above
drainage and aggregate backfill is a must for longevity.
Many of the newer flower bed blocks are attractive at first glance because of the
low price, but the number it takes to equal the coverage of the larger units and the
fact that they don't have a pin or lug system to prevent shifting, actually make them
not a very good choice for a true retaining wall.
timewarp
Well-known member
Re: Retaining Wall
I haven't used those blocks(I'm too cheap, my retaining wall I'm building now is busted up concrete from an old slab) but I would fill some of the holes with concrete to tie the levels together, you could also run a rebar down through the holes with the concrete to really tie it together. I think even just a rebar down through the holes with some compacted 3/4 minus gravel would tie it together nicely. After looking at your picture again I wanted to say that I am assuming you are going to turn the blocks the other way so the holes would be up and down, if not what I'm suggesting won't work.
Nice work in the pictures you guys posted.
I hope you don't mind a little thread hijack. Speaking of getting r done cheap...I got some 12" wide split face block cheap and decided to use it to build a retaining wall behind my garage. I did a nice footer and everything is straight and level but I don't know how well this type of block is going to do being dry stacked. My plan is to offset back 1" per course and fill the block with stone to hold things together. Problem is that these block lack the locking features of the Allen block. I've got the french drain going in even though its probably not needed in my super sandy soil.
Anybody think this will work or fall over
I haven't used those blocks(I'm too cheap, my retaining wall I'm building now is busted up concrete from an old slab) but I would fill some of the holes with concrete to tie the levels together, you could also run a rebar down through the holes with the concrete to really tie it together. I think even just a rebar down through the holes with some compacted 3/4 minus gravel would tie it together nicely. After looking at your picture again I wanted to say that I am assuming you are going to turn the blocks the other way so the holes would be up and down, if not what I'm suggesting won't work.
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gc427
Well-known member
What are you "retaining" with your wall? How tall are you planning?
You need to determine a few thing like this to start with so you get the right size footing and right size block.
Lots of rebar in the right places will come in handy too.
bigjmcconnell
Active member
Re: Retaining Wall
Sorry about that block in the pic causing confusion. It's not even the same type as I'm using. It was holding my string. I did think about using some concrete in the webs and/or rebar. At a minimum, it will be 3/4 gravel filling the voids in the blocks.
Sorry about that block in the pic causing confusion. It's not even the same type as I'm using. It was holding my string. I did think about using some concrete in the webs and/or rebar. At a minimum, it will be 3/4 gravel filling the voids in the blocks.