Retaining wall with large trees nearby

[isuhunter]

Looking for some thoughts on a installing a retaining wall and how to combat tree roots.

Would you guys use a nonwoven fabric with traditional perf tile or would you use a socked drainage tile behind the wall. We are using 77 lb block a filled with 1" clean stone and 12-18" of stone behind the 32" tall wall.

There are trees as you can see in the picture very close and trying to think what is best to stop the tile from plugging with tree roots.

 

[kd3pc]

Your location would help, that picture is pretty wet, with sitting water. I would plan on taking those trees out/down in the future. Not much will stop the roots from seeking moisture and that is pretty major root.

The weed mat is of little use on tree roots.



You can try drain/sock but the roots will eventually wear you down.

 

[James-W]

I agree, unless you get rid of the trees you will no doubt have some serious issues with tree roots in the future.

 

[Lynden]

Do some research on tree root barriers. Talk to a local arborist who has experience using root barriers around large trees. Here in my city the parks department puts them around large street trees which are damaging adjacent curbs and sidewalks.

https://www.landscapediscount.com/Root-Barrier-s/1952.htm

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=tree+root+barrier&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

 

[Jazz1]

Trees of that size should not be in striking distance of house JMHO...

 

[tarmy]

Can you do a gravity wall?

This is my solution to walls...works great...

 

[theoldwizard1]

Long term, the tree will die or the wall will fail.

If you want a fight chance, start be digging a foundation about 1' wide and down another 48". Install rebar including horizontals about every 1'. Form and pour with "fortified" concrete with added fiber.

Because you are below grade, you need to install a drainage system near the base of that foundation. Then treat the outside of the wall with an asphalt sealant, then heavy foundation waterproofing membrane and a finally a dimple board. Back fill with 3/4" gravel.


Now you have a fighting chance.

 

[Ing3018]

Behind the wall: Lay a heavy non-woven geotextile fabric; then your sock pipe at or below the wall's foundation elevation (hopefully that is below your patio elevation). Backfill the area between the back of the wall and the fabric with an open graded stone. Wrap the fabric over the top of the stone at an elevation a few inches below the top of the wall. Put another layer of stone on tope of that or mulch.
If you will be tying your roof downspout into this drain, do so through a catch basin so you don't send leaves and junk into your sock pipe.
Do you have a way to drain the pipe by gravity flow? If not, it looks like a pump would be needed.

 

[Kevin54]

If it were me, and the retaining wall is important, get the tree out of there. We cut down a Sunset Locust last Fall and I now have shoots coming up 30' away from the roots.

 

[glentre]

Another vote for removing the tree. It will eventually destroy your wall but will take time. You may not be around long enough to care.

Glen

 

[bczygan]

I absolutely LOVE trees and have planted over one hundred in my neighborhood. I would never have intruded upon those trees as you have. They will die and on the way to that, they will be a hazard.

A trees roots extend as far out from the trunk as the canopy does. You shouldn't change grade either up or down, plant anything, or construct anything in that area.

Now, your decision is to either remove them now, or later.

Bill

 

[ScottsGT]

I just cut down a huge Silver Maple that was 20 ft. from my 10" thick poured concrete basement wall because over time tree roots always win. I had a root about 4" in diameter that was right up to the wall.
There is no winning against a tree root.

 

[phred]

That tree is already dead. It just doesn’t know it. You have impacted its root zone. I spend close to 20000 in an effort to save 2 gigantic 200 year old oaks when I built my shop. We stayed outside the root zones. Kept them watered but in the end several of the roots where impacted by the limited earth work around the shop. The trees became stressed and when trees are stressed they release chemicals that attract wood boring worms that will kill the tree in 72 hours.
Long and short if you cut any roots it’s gonna die.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bighead38]

Number one if you want to save the tree you need to talk to a real arborist. I disagree with everyone saying the tree is dead or to get rid of it. Trees can be saved it just depends on what kind it is and how much money you want to spend. Granted there are times where no matter what you do the tree won’t make it. I’ve built plenty of walls near trees. Fabric will not stop roots at all, it just delays them from causing damage. The only thing I have ever seen that actually stops roots is driving down sheet steel. Your wall doesn’t appear big enough to need geo-grid. Walls your size I put the drainage pipe at the appropriate height, I run filter fabric from the top of the wall to the trench bottom and back up to the top of the dirt side. Then backfill the wall with 3/4” gravel so that the water has a way to move. The fabric stops the dirt from getting into the drainage and also from seeping through the wall.

 

[phred]

That tree is already dead. It just doesn’t know it. You have impacted its root zone. I spend close to 20000 in an effort to save 2 gigantic 200 year old oaks when I built my shop. We stayed outside the root zones. Kept them watered but in the end several of the roots where impacted by the limited earth work around the shop. The trees became stressed and when trees are stressed they release chemicals that attract wood boring worms that will kill the tree in 72 hours.
Long and short if you cut any roots it’s gonna die.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pcmeiners]

Every thunderstorm and every hurricane will be a gamble. Every year which goes by without these weather anomalies allows weak areas of trees to multiple, until even a mild storm cause limbs to break. Remove the trees from near your house. The only trees I might keep somewhat close to my house would be Tulip or Oak (>50 feet).

 

[nadogail]

That tree will come down someday, now who gets to decide when?

 

[toplessHO]

bare copper,ie,wire, pipe, foil etc
or copper sulphate

 

[duga]

I am a retaining wall contractor. I think you may or may not lose the tree. Better to take it out or at least consult an arborist. If you keep it, use that dry stack wall, built to manufacturer recommendations. They often recommend 12" behind. 3/4"- 1 1/2" for fill, no round rock under the wall. If you have clay soils, filter fabric and/or a sock is logical. I don't think they will do anything to directly stop tree roots but keeping the wall dry could. Roots look for water, so,,,,. We have put in copper mesh as it was specked, but to be honest, I have no idea if it worked because I never visited those sites again. And don't listen to these guys recommending anything with a concrete footing. Those will still lift, and are never the same. Your wall can be fixed. Best of luck