Needing to have a retaining wall built to level out my property. Prefer the look of the concrete block walls to cross ties.I need about 4 to 4 1/2 foot tall with lots of dirt behind it to level out yard.Not wealthy. Am I dreaming? What am I looking at? About 75 feet of wall needed. There seems to be tons of good suggestions here on most subjects. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Retaining Wall
- Thread starter abooboo
- Start date
With block instead of timbers it does take more base prep and more cost. To keep the block wall level, you need a solid and compacted base the full length of the wall. Timbers can go in sand instead of crushed rock and Timbers go in a lot faster and cost a lot less in the short term. 20 years down the road and you will get to replace the wood though.
If cost is a large factor, look at timber instead of block.
If cost is a large factor, look at timber instead of block.
Ross/Kzoo
Well-known member
When I put in my timber retaining wall thought it would last til I moved----wrong. Twenty years is tops 10-12 years is more normal around here. When you sell your property you will will have an easier time selling wit a nice wall. My advise would be to build it in 2 levels of 2 and 2 1/2 feet. There would be force than on a 4 1/2' wall and you wouldn't need a railing. A 4-4 1/2 drop off could be dangerous.
JakeKohl
Well-known member
4.5' wall is a tall wall. It requires a lot of support to make it stable no matter what material you choose. Most stacked block won't work support a 4.5' height. If you can break it up into separate, stepped, retaining walls you can use a stacked block. I agree with Kzoo, timbers are a 10-12 year solution even with proper deadmen support.
with either solution, you need to manage the water that could build up behind the block (making a dirt pool). The water will unstabilize everything - you need stone and drainage.
with either solution, you need to manage the water that could build up behind the block (making a dirt pool). The water will unstabilize everything - you need stone and drainage.
I'm going through this currently -- replacing old RR ties -- one of the walls is almost 5'. If you are in an area requiring permits .. like I am .. I have to have a structural engineer sign off on it -- the cost was staggering - to build the foundation and supports. We are going to tier the property -- keeping the walls lower -- to eliminate the need for railings and to minimized the structure required.
My old RR ties are from the late 60's -- we can still buy actually RR ties removed from local RR's -- the real ones last longer then 10 years.
My old RR ties are from the late 60's -- we can still buy actually RR ties removed from local RR's -- the real ones last longer then 10 years.
Crown Imperial
Well-known member
Look into compacting lime stone on the drop off if it isnt' too steep. I thought I needed a retaining wall on my property too till I found a contractor that suggest the lime stone. It's just like the fill on the sides of elevated roads leading up to a bridge for example. If done correctly it will not erode.
spotco2
Well-known member
I'm curious what the cost was. $100? $1,000? $10,000?
BigGMC
Well-known member
Cost of block wall varies greatly based on what block you want. I like the look of block walls and the fact that there is a huge choice in styles/colors/sizes. Big difference in quality too from the big box stores and a real stone/hardscape place.
True retaining wall blocks have a lip on the back edge that catches the course below. It also creates an automatic setback for each course - the wall steps back slightly from bottom to top. When figuring qty of block required, know that usually the first course is below grade.
When built correctly, 5ft walls have no problems. Can't speak about engineering requirements, where I live I can pretty much do whatever. I have about 120ft of wall behind the pool that goes from 1ft to 5ft in hieght to follow the natural grade, with a set of steps in the middle. Aside from some minimal horizontal settling, the wall is sound, been four years now. My soils are hardpan/clay poor draining and we have deep frosts.
Taller walls will need geo-grid (brandname?) layer every couple of feet. It's a plastic mesh that gets layed between courses and runs back into the bank a few feet. When the backfill is compacted/settles the mesh locks the wall to the earth.
As mentioned, drainage is important behind retaining walls. You don't want water building up, especially in freeze zones. Drainpipe is usually laid in some stone at the base of the wall and run out to daylight at either end.
True retaining wall blocks have a lip on the back edge that catches the course below. It also creates an automatic setback for each course - the wall steps back slightly from bottom to top. When figuring qty of block required, know that usually the first course is below grade.
When built correctly, 5ft walls have no problems. Can't speak about engineering requirements, where I live I can pretty much do whatever. I have about 120ft of wall behind the pool that goes from 1ft to 5ft in hieght to follow the natural grade, with a set of steps in the middle. Aside from some minimal horizontal settling, the wall is sound, been four years now. My soils are hardpan/clay poor draining and we have deep frosts.
Taller walls will need geo-grid (brandname?) layer every couple of feet. It's a plastic mesh that gets layed between courses and runs back into the bank a few feet. When the backfill is compacted/settles the mesh locks the wall to the earth.
As mentioned, drainage is important behind retaining walls. You don't want water building up, especially in freeze zones. Drainpipe is usually laid in some stone at the base of the wall and run out to daylight at either end.
p_mori7
Well-known member
Can you score some very large rocks?
Rent a skid steer ?
Drainage will happen naturally between the gaps.
Rent a skid steer ?
Drainage will happen naturally between the gaps.
JimVonBaden
Well-known member
I agree. Stacked block can do 3' max. Stepping back a few feet and creating a terrace can help a lot. Plus it looks very cool!
Mine is a little over 2.5' high and 36' long. I paid just at $700 with labot. It would have been more if they were not doing the pavers too..
Last edited:
big.jim
Well-known member
have you thought of gabions filled with stone and tiered they dont need foundations just place them then fill with whatever type of stone you want , they have good drainage and strength
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
THIS IS CRITICAL !
Most walls that fail are because they do not "manage" the water build up behind it !
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Not common here, but they do work !
To work properly they must be wired together. Common size is about 3' high. If you have access to crushed concrete (4-8") this would be the cheapest ballast.
You can always put some kind of decorative wall, with proper drainage, in front of them in the future.
Last edited: