Retrofit a door Lentel?

[Algebra]

Old cinderblock garage with stucco exterior. Old door (36" rough opening) had 2x6 frame but the jack studs (screwed into the cinderblock) had rotted at their base so not even in contact with the sill. Didn't appear to provide any vertical support. Also large mouse hole. There was no lentel.

So replaced with new prehung full sized door. No structural frame of course. Without that old 2x6 header there is a gap between new header and cinderblocks. The crack above has been there since I bought the home 20 years ago. (No change at all).

But it sure looks like the door should have a lentel. I am thinking of using a masonry blade on my circular saw to extend that gap 4" on either side and then sliding in a flat 44"x4 in steel lentel. Push in some mortar to fill the gap. Good idea?

My cut will not be in a mortar line (unfortunately). What if the builder did not fill the cinderblocks with concrete? Would cutting into the block perhaps cause it to crumble?

If picture is not attached, give me a moment and I will try again.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would consider chipping the block & brick out (trying not to harm the exterior finish) and install wood header to support the roof rafters
the rafters may have a doubled up rim joist on the ends too, which could be reason for not sagging

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

That is definitely loadbearing so what I would do is cut the cinderblock 4 inches from the top of the door frame and install New steel Lintels....unfortunately it will damage the stucco but you need support over the door


I would throw up some support under the 2x12s before you do anything to support the roof/floor above

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[Michigan Mike]

Those blocks above the door may be bond beam blocks. They may have rebar and poured concrete in them making them a concrete beam of sorts. Not as good as a lintel but they seem to have done the job. I would be tempted to drill some 1/4 inch holes in the middle of the block to see if they are filled solid. I would put some temporary support under the cieling joists if you do this. You may crack what is there meaning you will have to repair or rebuild.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

Those blocks above the door may be bond beam blocks. They may have rebar and poured concrete in them making them a concrete beam of sorts. Not as good as a lintel but they seem to have done the job. I would be tempted to drill some 1/4 inch holes in the middle of the block to see if they are filled solid. I would put some temporary support under the cieling joists if you do this. You may crack what is there meaning you will have to repair or rebuild.

You can also use a hammer and tap the coarse all the way across and see if it sounds hollow...

If the tap changes tones then it won’t be a bond beam


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[kbs2244]

Why do you want to fix something that isn't broke?

You do not seem to have any structural problems.

 

[Toomanytools?]

You could just build a 2x4 wall past the fire extinguisher and equal on other side with a 2x6 + header. You have the room to do it, or cut a lentel in from the interior. It didn't have anything before so...? But that is why you have the cracks in the stucco, no support.
Should build a landing that looks like a fall waiting to happen coming in that door.

 

[6768rogues]

Those look like 2x10 or 2x12 joists above. It is not good practice to support two joists that size with 2x6s.
I would not have used foam to fill over the door. Any movement above will squash the door frame and impair door action. Loosely filled with fiberglass insulation or foam rubber is better.
A flat plate lintel is not very strong unless it is really thick. Typically one for load bearing is either an L or a T shape. BTW, lentil is an edible plant.
Even if the block is filled, it looks compromised by a big crack.
I would brace the joists above, remove as much masonry as possible to a half block past the door on both sides, and replace it with as many 2x members as possible in as big a size as possible. Then put felt, mesh and stucco on the outside and paint to match.
Or get a good heavy duty piece of angle lintel. Move the conduits so it can run two joists past the door on each side. Put it under the joists with several through bolts through the block with big washers outside and a lag up to each joist to keep it from rotating. Paint the bolt heads and washers on the outside to match.
Or do nothing and let us know how that works out.

 

[FANTM58]

Build a “T” to support the joists before doing any work
Measure the clear dimensions then add about a half inch and kick or hammer it into place.

 

[Squashfest81]

To avoid cutting into the block and if you are that concerned. I’d “trim” the door with the 2 by lumber of your choice from the floor to a “header” of your choice and paint.

 

[Algebra]

To avoid cutting into the block and if you are that concerned. I’d “trim” the door with the 2 by lumber of your choice from the floor to a “header” of your choice and paint.

Thanks everybody!

I gotta keep it simple. Perhaps leave it alone (the cinderblocks are hollow) so I can't cut in on the sides to insert steel lintel.

Are you suggesting I recreate what was there originally- pull out the prehung new door and frame and insert 2x6 jambs and header, without lintel? Then trim the door to fit and hang it on the 2x6" jambs? It seems like better than nothing (current). From what I've read the weight on a lintel is not as much as it looks ie. a "triangle" of distributed weight from above not the full rectangle of weight. Plus I don't have that much height of blocks (weight) above the door anyway. (However, there are those joists!). I suppose I could use pressure treated 2x6's. I'm no mason, and don't want to open a can of worms. Square cuts with my circular saw is the limit of my technical skills. (I can't even spell Lentil, rather Lintel!)

 

[Squashfest81]

If you are speaking to me. I’m saying use the supporting lumber as the trim. Leave the door as installed. Just add lumber against the block wall. Here’s a super engineered drawing.