Retrofitting wall boxes in brick wall

[iced98lx]

Hello folks! I've pulled an external light off my garage to replace it and unhappily discovered that there is no box behind it. It's a wood plate, nailed over a hole in the brick, with a wire sticking through.

I can take the wood plate off, leaving me with a smallish (1.5 inch?) hole in the brick, but is it legal to put something like this:



Or should I just figure out how to attach the new lights ot the wood plate and call it a day? cut the brick back and try to get a box in?

Suggestions, mockery welcome!

 

[Zeke]

Looks good to me. The only issue is usually with wire fill requirements. I don't know the measurement of the connection area but if 4", you should be good for a single connection (no wire through).

 

[Sinatra]

You could also use a pancake box and surface mount it. They come in two sizes, with and without clamps. That would provide the proper holes for the light fixture mounting.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would probably surface mount a pancake box on the brick

 

[iced98lx]

Looks good to me. The only issue is usually with wire fill requirements. I don't know the measurement of the connection area but if 4", you should be good for a single connection (no wire through).

Thanks, I hadn't considered the fill requirements, so I'm glad you said something. I'll check it out.

You could also use a pancake box and surface mount it. They come in two sizes, with and without clamps. That would provide the proper holes for the light fixture mounting.

I would probably surface mount a pancake box on the brick

I hadn't considered this but I could easily trim one out to match the rest of the exterior trim after mounting. Just need to make sure the WAF is high on the visual side

 

[Zeke]

Pancake boxes are not rated for wet or damp locations. What I like about the non-metallic box is that it provides both a box for a connection and a oversized base for the fixture canopy. I don't know why others can't see the places for the mounting studs or screws depending or whether your base is single center threaded tube on a flat bracket or 2) 8/32 screws. It will do both perfectly.

Seal it to the wall and use a gasket between the canopy and the box/base. Furthermore I looks like the knockouts are perfect for entry clamps. If this is the end of a 14 ga. run, or a single switch leg, don't worry about fill capacity. You're good, You don't count the ground and many times the area of the canopy DOES count expanding the volume. Lastly, if that is a 4" box, they made it right. I wish I has seen these things 10-20 years ago.

WAF?

 

[The Cobbler]

Pancake boxes are not rated for wet or damp locations. .....

maybe a regional /country thing, I used pancake boxes on my shop for fixtures at each side of the sectional door. what's the difference between them & a regular octagon box ?

 

[ycgoat]

I like the cut in box with a clean hole and grouted. It looks original

 

[Zeke]

maybe a regional /country thing, I used pancake boxes on my shop for fixtures at each side of the sectional door. what's the difference between them & a regular octagon box ?

Technically, an octagon box is not listed for wet locations. You would use a Bell box if surface mounted. Since the pic in the fist post is a surface mount, I have not brought up flush boxes. So, yeah, your box that has been buried in siding or stucco is fine.

 

[ycgoat]

Technically, an octagon box is not listed for wet locations. You would use a Bell box if surface mounted. Since the pic in the fist post is a surface mount, I have not brought up flush boxes. So, yeah, your box that has been buried in siding or stucco is fine.

My understanding was the pancake boxes can be sealed after the fact

 

[Zeke]

My understanding was the pancake boxes can be sealed after the fact

You can take that up with your inspector. Before opening my mouth, I read 2 other forums one being Mike Holt. I am not Norcal nor Wylie. When I see something I like and can contribute, I will. And that plastic combo plate in post #1 fixes a problem nicely.

He could have gone to another forum too. Problem with some is you have to register as a professional, which I have. Technically, my CA GC license allows me to do electrical. In addition, I have worked for electrical contractors in the past for the experience.

...end of story.

 

[ycgoat]

You can take that up with your inspector. Before opening my mouth, I read 2 other forums one being Mike Holt. I am not Norcal nor Wylie. When I see something I like and can contribute, I will. And that plastic combo plate in post #1 fixes a problem nicely.

He could have gone to another forum too. Problem with some is you have to register as a professional, which I have. Technically, my CA GC license allows me to do electrical. In addition, I have worked for electrical contractors in the past for the experience.

...end of story.

Yeh, it's been a while since I read up on it, and must have remembered the requirement how I wanted it to read. I think I was reading the definition of weather proof vs the requirement to be listed as weatherproof.

 

[MoonRise]

I hadn't considered this but I could easily trim one out to match the rest of the exterior trim after mounting. Just need to make sure the WAF is high on the visual side

WAF usually means Wife Approval Factor.

Although there are other meanings.

 

[iced98lx]

WAF usually means Wife Approval Factor.

Although there are other meanings.

Correct usage for me!

I bought the top item, it is 4 inch and it does appear it will do what I need it to, but I have to get it primed and painted to match before I put it up there or it'll never get painted

Thanks for the discussion folks, this has been super helpful! My first impulse was to cut a hole and slam a flush box in, but if the wife will have the top box painted to match trim wise we'll go that way and save my next thread: "How the *#%*# do I cut brick and have it look nice?!" followed by "Which mud do I use for this brickwork and why doesn't it match!?" LOL

 

[Zeke]

Good choice. Cutting bricks is never fun unless you have all the right tools, e.g., a round masonry saw 4" in diameter ($$$$$).