Rewiring an electric stove top

[Paulski]

Hi,

I have a frigidaire RBB 101 electric cook top that one of the elements stopped working on. Continuity testing showed the switch and element are good, One of the wires broke off as soon as i touched it though so I think the wire was the issue, but instead of replacing that one wire, I figured all the wires should be replaced seeing how they are ~60 years old. What type of wire is used inside of electric stoves? Best thing I found so far is MTW wire but dont know if thats right. I have been trying to look at pictures online of replacement harness for newer stoves - to read the specs printed on the wire, but cant find a clear enough picture. Also, is there specific specs or ratings for the crimp connectors?
Thanks

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Im guessing its high temperature wire, rated for 105° or higher.

Why not just buy a new unit? Will be a pain to try and rehab a 60yo unit....

 

[Paulski]

It matches the mid century theme of the kitchen, cosmetically its in perfect shape, the coating must have been redone at one point. All the wires are easily accessible so it will be easy to rewire and I think I could easily retro fit a switch if one ever goes out, but hopefully the elements don't burn out because matching ones arnt available anywhere

 

[dogdog]

just search for wiring harness model x ?

I think those wires that needed higher heating resistance are also nickle tinned or coated , aside from it having a higher temp rating on the shielding. I have seen some might even been covered/sleeved over with those fiberglass / silicon selves. They do sell those for each wire sizes needed... almost look like heat shrink tubing but with the fiberglass weave .... looks..

something that look like these....

http://www.insulation-tubing.com/silicone-fiberglass-tubing.asp

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/alpha-wire/pf2009-na005/70139234/

 

[The Cobbler]

pick up a stove roadside and strip out the wires ?
your original wires are probably asbestos coated, be careful whit them

 

[rlitman]

...Best thing I found so far is MTW wire but dont know if thats right...

MTW is NOT right, and neither is 105C TEW (TEW is the tinned version of MTW).

I've got a modern range top wiring harness sitting around that I use for the high temperature wire. The name escapes me, but I'll take a look at it shortly.

Oh, and it is also critically important that you do not use copper (no matter what the plating) crimp terminals. Copper softens when heated, which will cause failures. Ranges use nickel plated steel crimp terminals. It's a specialty high temperature part that's pretty much used exclusives in ovens.

 

[Paulski]

Thank rlitman, I found these nickel plated steel connectors - https://www.mcmaster.com/electrical.../high-temperature-quick-disconnect-terminals/

 

[rlitman]

Those are exactly the ends you want.

Ok, I looked, and I couldn't find the wiring harness, so, digging through memory and google, there are several types of wire used in ranges.

TGGT is the highest temperature type. That is absolutely going to be fine at the highest temperatures you may encounter in a range, and will be what you find leading up to the actual elements. It's pricey though, and the fiberglass is hard on strippers and can be brittle, so it's harder to work with than normal plastic insulation (it's also not all that abrasion resistant). If you're buying a single small spool for everything, TGGT will work. TGGT uses teflon and fiberglass for the insulation, and the copper wire is nickel plated for high temperature oxidation resistance (where even tin plating starts to give out).

For other places, the harness may have wires with EPDM, XLPE or even silicone insulation (I picked these in increasing temperature rating order) and tinned copper for higher temperature resistance than normal PVC insulation. It wouldn't be hard to find such "hookup" wires in 600V ratings with 125C, 150C and 200C temperature ratings. Just be aware that silicone is easily damaged around sharp things.

Some element designs (such as in a dishwasher) include a long cool end acting as a buffer space, so you won't need something like TGGT to directly connect (the element socket in coil top ranges would be like this). Some elements (like in an infrared glass top) put the heat closer to the wire.

Remember that you must not use plastic wire nuts in a range. Ceramic only.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, You need to consult with an appliance repair parts dealer. Try your local yellow pages.

 

[Paulski]

It looks like it might have the long cool buffer for elements, theres also a mix of wires, looks like PVC insulated around the switches and a cloth type? from the J box and switches to heating elements. The wiring has defiantly been tampered with before - there was a short piece of fiberglass insulated going from a switch to a wire nut to the cloth wrapped stuff. Checking on the broken wire, it looks to be 14G, some of the cloth wrapped is bigger though.

 

[pancho400cid]

FWIW I work for a company that makes large electric motors. Many of them have big heating elements in the enclosure to prevent moisture condensation.

To connect the heater elements together and to the connection terminal blocks, we use teflon/fiberglass TGGT wire as mentioned by rlitman. Great stuff for high temps and looks mid-century cool too!

https://www.iewc.com.cn/assets/specsheets/TGGT_Unstrip_250.pdf

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