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Rewiring an old Garage

wrench409

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I am wanting to rewire my detached garage. See the photo below.

It was built in 1978 by the previous homeowner himself. He was partial to nails and had them in every joist and upright 2x4 every 12 inches or so. I removed all I could reach but have more to take out. He hung stuff from them. As I was pulling them, I noticed the wiring. The house I bought last year was built in 1957. I had the opportunity to explore the attic and it is wired in exactly the same way. It met code from that time I'm sure.

So, back to my rewiring ideas. I have already bought 1/2" EMT, a bender, boxes, switches and outlets, etc. The only tool I lack is the 'offset bender' and it is far too expensive for one one project. I will likely use the box offset for EMT fittings for that.

My question is.....should I bother? There is only one circuit that is dead and it's in an area I will not be using.

I think the conduit will make it more appealing to the eye and be much safer.

Any pointers or tips?

Thanks for a great site!
 

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madosta

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IMHO - use 3/4" EMT if you're going to sleeve romex, you will agree more with the conduit fill ratios. I pulled out all of my 1/2" and replaced it with 3/4" - I have a couple sleeves that are 1/2" but only have one piece of 14/2 in them.

The offset bender is crazy. Just practice making offsets, and you'll be fine. The offset fittings are nice, but I like the offset bend.
 

kossuth

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Awful small Header on that door!
Yeah, but it looks to have been built with trusses not rafters based on the side plate seen in the pic. I wouldn't worry too much.

I would also concur on using 3/4 inch stuff. Doing offsets are a piece of cake. If you've never done it before then get yourself an Uglies book. They have a bunch of examples and vice you the math super simple.
 

matt151617

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Have you considered buying 3 500' rolls of THWN #12 wire in each color and running that instead through EMT? It'll allow more circuits through than NM. Unless you planned on reusing the NM already there.
 

Thruxton

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Have you considered buying 3 500' rolls of THWN #12 wire in each color and running that instead through EMT? It'll allow more circuits through than NM. Unless you planned on reusing the NM already there.

I did that with 3/4 EMT and 3 500' rolls of #10 THHN (a number of 240V circuits required the #10) - it's almost finished, and I plan to sell the leftover #10 (used about half, but will measure by weight to get an accurate est of what's left), so my price per foot will be very reasonable. And voltage drop very low on the 120V circuits! And the advice above about offsets is right on- they are easy to do (at least on 1/2 and 3/4, the very first one I tried to do was on 1 1/4 - not so easy!). Good luck, it's actually a rewarding job.
 
OP
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wrench409

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Thanks for all the helpful advice!

Yes, built with trusses, but these are prebuilt type not built onsite. No framing issues encountered. They didn't put up wallboard - no need in Texas and I kinda like the old school exposed wood stud look.

Using single wire instead of NM. My son is providing the wire, I'll get with him.

I've read that the offsets can be made using the standard hand bender. I will do some practicing. I kept my receipt for the 1/2" and will discuss going to 3/4" with my son. He's going to help with the whole plan now and has even offered to wire in the 220V system since he knows how (he's learned a lot I wasn't aware of since leaving home!)

Uglies book? Wassat? Got a link? I Googled and just came up with entertainment stuff.
 
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Thruxton

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Wow, I just went through your thread. Awesome!

I'm reconsidering the old school no wallboard look in mine!

Thanks for all the ideas!

Thanks for checking it out- keep us posted with pics!

Uglies book? Wassat? Got a link? I Googled and just came up with entertainment stuff.

Just google "how to bend conduit" and you will find a bunch of stuff.
 

jemun

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The truss on the end of a roof is not build the same as the rest of the trusses. It is not a free span no support truss. It needs the same support as regular framing.
Jeff
 

pattenp

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The truss on the end of a roof is not build the same as the rest of the trusses. It is not a free span no support truss. It needs the same support as regular framing.
Jeff

That statement is not true. There are structural gable end trusses for clear spans. Unless you're solely talking about the OP's end truss.

See this... http://www.structuremag.org/article.aspx?articleid=360



*
 
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ddawg16

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If your going to use conduit....you don't want to run NM cable it it....it's a real PIA. THHN/TWWN is the way to go.

The only time you need to use conduit is when you have wires exposed and could be damaged.

I know you like the 'look' of exposed wood.....my old garage was that way....but after doing drywall in my new garage....no way I would have exposed studs again....it's so much easier to keep things clean and the lighting is a whole lot better....as well as better temp control.
 

Falcon67

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I would just staple the romex properly and go on. As for the header - that's a gable end, truss or not there is not very much weight on the plate so the bitty header is plenty.
 

Highbeam

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No need for a header on a gable end. The roof load is on the other walls. Frame it like an interior wall above the door which is what it looks like. It's good.

This thread is about a created problem. There is no apparent need to do anything except perhaps to staple down the romex at the proper interval. Not a big deal.

So you want to rewire it for some other reason. I'm not a big fan of indoor conduit when you have full wall access. No requirement to use conduit.
 
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