Rheem Minisplit system making annoying crackle & tick noises.

[Deception]

Just had a Rheem Minisplit system installed last week for half the first floor of my house. 36k condenser, 7k, 9k & 12k indoor units.
Im getting all kinds of little noises from all 3 units, most noticeably the 9k bedroom unit when im trying to go to sleep. Waiting to install the other 2 head system until these things get resolved.

This video is an example of some of the noises.

I know Im not the only person to experience these problems with minisplits in general, but anyone have tips on silencing them for Rheem specifically? Only found some instructions for Mitsubishi units using some dry lube in certain areas.
The installer is coming back tomorrow to check the freon levels to rule out that as a cause. Guy at the distributor said to check blower housing too.
thanks

 

[PCustoms]

Just had a Rheem Minisplit system installed last week for half the first floor of my house. 36k condenser, 7k, 9k & 12k indoor units.

I have no idea, but is this normal? 28k of indoor units on a 36k condenser....

 

[Deception]

I have no idea, but is this normal? 28k of indoor units on a 36k condenser....

Not 100% sure.. was told it was by distributor. next smallest size condenser is 24k BTU

 

[yeldogt]

Sounds like one of the plastic parts binding ....make sure the case is square and not twisted.

Did they do a overall load on the building ?

Did they look in the tables to make sure those three heads are suitable for the outside unit ? What's the min output of the outside unit.

With multi head you want them all on .... remember ... unless it's a branch box system there will be flow to every head.

 

[Deception]

Sounds like one of the plastic parts binding ....make sure the case is square and not twisted.

Did they do a overall load on the building ?

Did they look in the tables to make sure those three heads are suitable for the outside unit ? What's the min output of the outside unit.

With multi head you want them all on .... remember ... unless it's a branch box system there will be flow to every head.

The support brackets are level. But my walls are plaster so some slight bulging noticeable when rocking a level on the wall. What would be a good solution to that if it's causing a problem?

No overall load was done. He guesstimated each room. 8x11 7k, 13x14 9k. And approx 300sq ft living room 12k

I do keep all the heads turned on all the time.

Condenser is a ROMH36AFXZJ. I'll have to check the min output. But looking at some websites it shows as correct compressor to match up with this combo of heads.

 

[Jackfre]

How long are the individual evap line sets? Is the condensate line for each evap draining the pan properly? Are the evaps level? Also, I was once called in a job where the unit had water dripping out of the front of the units. Turns out the wall was out of plumb.

 

[Deception]

Ok so according to manuals from Rheem this 3 unit combo is correct for the 36k condenser. Minimum output 11k btu if im reading that right?

 

[Deception]

How long are the individual evap line sets? Is the condensate line for each evap draining the pan properly? Are the evaps level? Also, I was once called in a job where the unit had water dripping out of the front of the units. Turns out the wall was out of plumb.

The small heads are 12-15 feet of lineset each. Right out side of house. The 12k is approx 30-35ft runs through basement and up an interior wall. As far as I can tell they all drain properly. The 12k is draining into a bucket currently in the basement. Waiting on little giant pump to show up. Other 2 drain to the outside by gravity

 

[Deception]

Are the evaps level?

What do you mean are the evaps level? The linesets?

 

[yeldogt]

Just make sure the outer case is not screwed together so tight that it is distorting the case. Most of the units hang off the mount and have some movement available so they don't transmit any twist to the unit. Some screw in and this can twist them a bit. Taking the front cover off should not be very hard to make sure it's sitting correctly ... all the parts that make the various vanes move are plastic .... it would not be a surprise if something is off or needs a spot of lube. My old LG started to make some noise opening and closing.

Mitsubishi publishes an engineering manual where they have a graph for each outdoor unit and then a grid for the possible heads and the outputs for each. Heads on multi systems output differently vs singles.

When doing the multi heads it's the same as any other system ..... you want to know the overall load of the space and match the system to the space. Most of the systems can have more head BTU on them vs the condenser output. The problem you have is the low point of the condenser is 11k BTU ... where is that going to go? At night when the load is low it's has to move that 11k to all the heads as that is more than full output for two of them.

 

[Deception]

Just make sure the outer case is not screwed together so tight that it is distorting the case. Most of the units hang off the mount and have some movement available so they don't transmit any twist to the unit. Some screw in and this can twist them a bit. Taking the front cover off should not be very hard to make sure it's sitting correctly ... all the parts that make the various vanes move are plastic .... it would not be a surprise if something is off or needs a spot of lube. My old LG started to make some noise opening and closing.

Mitsubishi publishes an engineering manual where they have a graph for each outdoor unit and then a grid for the possible heads and the outputs for each. Heads on multi systems output differently vs singles.

When doing the multi heads it's the same as any other system ..... you want to know the overall load of the space and match the system to the space. Most of the systems can have more head BTU on them vs the condenser output. The problem you have is the low point of the condenser is 11k BTU ... where is that going to go? At night when the load is low it's has to move that 11k to all the heads as that is more than full output for two of them.

They are the hanging kind of mount, units dont screw to the mount.. its like a cleat at the top & 2 tabs that pop into bottom.
Yeah I see what youre saying about the total load, but this combo shows as whats compatible for the 36k condenser.
I was planning on adding a head for the basement at some point, maybe I should do that to put more total load on this condenser?

Looking at those charts though I see they will need to exchange my other uninstalled 36k condenser though.. that system will be a 12k & 15k heads combo & shows it goes with the 24k condenser.

 

[Deception]

Appears he connected the units in wrong order to compressor as per the install manual.. condenser has connections for 4 units. As per manual from bottom up should be 12k (using adapter for smaller lineset) , 9k, 7k, top empty.. He did from top down, 12k, 9k, 7k, bottom empty... this might be causing an issue too.

These guys are so f'n lazy.. I know exactly why he did it like this, because thats what ports the linesets were closest to exiting the lineset covers

 

[yeldogt]

Appears he connected the units in wrong order to compressor as per the install manual.. condenser has connections for 4 units. As per manual from bottom up should be 12k (using adapter for smaller lineset) , 9k, 7k, top empty.. He did from top down, 12k, 9k, 7k, bottom empty... this might be causing an issue too.

These guys are so f'n lazy.. I know exactly why he did it like this, because thats what ports the linesets were closest to exiting the lineset covers

Sadly .... in so many fields the training is weak and individuals don't take the time to read what is out there. Mini - splits don't work the same as traditional splits and even within the mini-split world things are always advancing.

Toss in the multi head systems and now you are talking something very different. in many situations the multi head is the best solution ... but -- they have to be designed correctly and the manuals followed. They don't work the way most people think ....

Say you have three (3) 12 k heads. Guess you purchase a 36k unit .... right? Most think the outside unit can send out whatever is needed to one head. Two heads off and the last head in a bedroom at night needs 6k .... so it gets 6k. Sounds great ... except not correct. Some refrigerant needs to flow to each head all the time ... that's one of the reasons you see the efficiency lower ... the lines are always active to some flow. So if you have a far flung unit that is never on ...it's getting flow. In some situations where a head will be rarely used it is best to have it a single.

Also -- with a full load done you know what the space needs. I have two 3 head systems in two different houses -- each is a 3x12k connected to a 3 port 30k condenser. This gives me the output in the spaces and controls the low end output of the compressor.

In my new house I have a loft that is way up at the top of the structure ... it's a converted stone church from the 1870's. So this is way up in the building. This loft is off of a seating area space and the better 1/2 uses it as a music room --- it can be a guest room in a pinch as it has a day bed. I put a mini up there for AC and heat when the radiant is off in the shoulder season. It's a big place and because it's odd we used two other mini-splits in places where there was just not a good solution for HVAC. Mostly because the layout did not offer ways to get proper sized ductwork from the main structure. Mini-splits are great problem solvers. My point with all of this ..... that loft being a very long run from the ground and very rarely used .... it's not a good head to link up with a multi system. It's best to have as a single stand alone. But, my other systems are in areas where the heads are always on and the units are able to modulate as the sun moves around the building and the compressor matches the output

 

[Deception]

Sadly .... in so many fields the training is weak and individuals don't take the time to read what is out there. Mini - splits don't work the same as traditional splits and even within the mini-split world things are always advancing.

Toss in the multi head systems and now you are talking something very different. in many situations the multi head is the best solution ... but -- they have to be designed correctly and the manuals followed. They don't work the way most people think ....

Say you have three (3) 12 k heads. Guess you purchase a 36k unit .... right? Most think the outside unit can send out whatever is needed to one head. Two heads off and the last head in a bedroom at night needs 6k .... so it gets 6k. Sounds great ... except not correct. Some refrigerant needs to flow to each head all the time ... that's one of the reasons you see the efficiency lower ... the lines are always active to some flow. So if you have a far flung unit that is never on ...it's getting flow. In some situations where a head will be rarely used it is best to have it a single.

Also -- with a full load done you know what the space needs. I have two 3 head systems in two different houses -- each is a 3x12k connected to a 3 port 30k condenser. This gives me the output in the spaces and controls the low end output of the compressor.

In my new house I have a loft that is way up at the top of the structure ... it's a converted stone church from the 1870's. So this is way up in the building. This loft is off of a seating area space and the better 1/2 uses it as a music room --- it can be a guest room in a pinch as it has a day bed. I put a mini up there for AC and heat when the radiant is off in the shoulder season. It's a big place and because it's odd we used two other mini-splits in places where there was just not a good solution for HVAC. Mostly because the layout did not offer ways to get proper sized ductwork from the main structure. Mini-splits are great problem solvers. My point with all of this ..... that loft being a very long run from the ground and very rarely used .... it's not a good head to link up with a multi system. It's best to have as a single stand alone. But, my other systems are in areas where the heads are always on and the units are able to modulate as the sun moves around the building and the compressor matches the output

I think I understand. So my units are always on and they all call for cooling many times throughout the day. Theres not one that barely operates from what I can tell.

Im supposed to be having a different company come over next week to check the system over & hopefully fix it to an acceptable state.
Much more reputable. I dont even wanna have the original guy back at my house the more I notice his work habits.

But if I cant get things sorted out Im gonna have to sell the equip I had installed at a loss & return the other half of the system. Maybe central or high velocity would be better even though Im in a 1940's cap cod style home which makes duct work a bit of a PIA.

 

[PoorOwner]

Appears he connected the units in wrong order to compressor as per the install manual.. condenser has connections for 4 units. As per manual from bottom up should be 12k (using adapter for smaller lineset) , 9k, 7k, top empty.. He did from top down, 12k, 9k, 7k, bottom empty... this might be causing an issue too.

These guys are so f'n lazy.. I know exactly why he did it like this, because thats what ports the linesets were closest to exiting the lineset covers

Isn't the sound just the plastic creaking as the evap coil gets cooler or warmer, for example I have a single zone and sometimes it would turn off the compressor when it is cold enough, it would make these creaking noises for a couple minutes.
You can try putting your hand on the plastic cover, or against the filter door to see if it still makes these noises.

As to the connecting order on the outdoor unit, I believe all 12k 9k 7k uses the same lineset 3/8" suction?

I would think, any of the ports from a 36k condenser will support a 12k head just fine. The installer probably saw all these units can be installed without reducer. Reducers in fact is a hassle and actually I would think that port that needs the reducer is meant to put a lot of flow and best reserved for the bigger head units than you have. (without seeing the manual here) Of course it shouldn't be up to us to look into this as you paid a professional for the installation. Electronically the outdoor unit knows what size head unit it is talking to assuming the communication wires are hooked up to the right channels.

Just know that, if you demand they fix the lineset order it is difficult to get right, they would need to cut it shorter then reflare it, chance of getting copper bits in the system, or if they don't and do it lazy just wrench it back on, either way it can cause leaks, they also need run all the refrigerant into the outdoor unit again and vacuum down again, there is oil in the lines now is not as easy as the original install. Nothing that would challenge a competent tech experienced with mini splits, but it doesn't sound like you have that tech.

If you are getting a satisfactory cooling, delta is good, if it was me I would not demand to redo the linesets, there is not that much difference between a 9k or 12k evap unit.

 

[Deception]

Isn't the sound just the plastic creaking as the evap coil gets cooler or warmer, for example I have a single zone and sometimes it would turn off the compressor when it is cold enough, it would make these creaking noises for a couple minutes.
You can try putting your hand on the plastic cover, or against the filter door to see if it still makes these noises.

As to the connecting order on the outdoor unit, I believe all 12k 9k 7k uses the same lineset 3/8" suction?

I would think, any of the ports from a 36k condenser will support a 12k head just fine. The installer probably saw all these units can be installed without reducer. Reducers in fact is a hassle and actually I would think that port that needs the reducer is meant to put a lot of flow and best reserved for the bigger head units than you have. (without seeing the manual here) Of course it shouldn't be up to us to look into this as you paid a professional for the installation. Electronically the outdoor unit knows what size head unit it is talking to assuming the communication wires are hooked up to the right channels.

Just know that, if you demand they fix the lineset order it is difficult to get right, they would need to cut it shorter then reflare it, chance of getting copper bits in the system, or if they don't and do it lazy just wrench it back on, either way it can cause leaks, they also need run all the refrigerant into the outdoor unit again and vacuum down again, there is oil in the lines now is not as easy as the original install. Nothing that would challenge a competent tech experienced with mini splits, but it doesn't sound like you have that tech.

If you are getting a satisfactory cooling, delta is good, if it was me I would not demand to redo the linesets, there is not that much difference between a 9k or 12k evap unit.

It might be the plastic, but if thats what it does when the compressor shuts off almost every time this system is not whisper quiet as advertised, POS in my opinion. Who wants to hear that when they are laying in bed? I have taken off the big front door & it still made noises.

The linesets for the 7 9 & 12's are 1/4 x 3/8"
He soldered/brazed everything, including at the heads where he cut off the factory flares. The only flares are where they connect to condenser. So theres probably a good chance there might be some copper bits in there already.

According to the chart in attached manual it doesnt support 12k head at the top port (port D).. page 4

 

[Deception]

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[American Locomotive]

Welcome to the world of HVAC contractors. In my experience, the vast majority of them are either incompetent, hacks, or purposely malicious. Sometimes they're all three.

Cutting off the flares and brazing them at the indoor unit is ridiculous, and unless they were very meticulous (flowing/purging with nitrogen the entire time) likely introduced contaminants into the system. I would be surprised if Rheem would honor the warranty. If the company that did the install is a Rheem authorized installer/distributor, I would be contacting Rheem about what they did right now.

FWIW: It appears that the Rheem unit is actually a re-branded Fujitsu system

 

[yeldogt]

I think I understand. So my units are always on and they all call for cooling many times throughout the day. Theres not one that barely operates from what I can tell.

Im supposed to be having a different company come over next week to check the system over & hopefully fix it to an acceptable state.
Much more reputable. I dont even wanna have the original guy back at my house the more I notice his work habits.

But if I cant get things sorted out Im gonna have to sell the equip I had installed at a loss & return the other half of the system. Maybe central or high velocity would be better even though Im in a 1940's cap cod style home which makes duct work a bit of a PIA.

Don't throw the baby out with the bath water .... Rheem is a good company and they are not going to have some fly by night making the minisplits for them.

Doing a quick read I see that you are correct -- the largest head should be on the 1st port. Clearly this manual was never looked over. If this is indeed a Fujitsu .... I would find that engineering manual. It also may be a good idea to see if you can get to anybody at the Rheem engineering department that does the minisplits. Sometimes you get lucky and they talk to you and they can give you more infor in 5 min than reading for hours. With that only being a 12k -- you may be in better shape with it not on the best port.

Frankly -- if you think you want that 4th head ,,,, this is the time to do it if they have to open it up again. Otherwise --- you have to go though a full empty and recharge to add the head later.

Also -- the video you posted is a little hard to hear everything. Two things may be going on .... When the wall units are on the fan is always running and the unit is getting the room temp from the air temp coming into the unit --- normally the room temp is not from the remote. So it uses the incoming air temp and the evaporator temp to work the magic outside. When the units are off you will hear the refrigerant going through since there is no other noise .... they are not silent all the time. Very quiet -- but, they make some little noises.

You should not hear a constant sound of refrigerant going through the unit ..... the vane noise you will be able to solve if that is what is happening. My units have two 4 little motors for the vanes and another for the sensor eye .. they occasionally make a creek noise.

 

[Deception]

Welcome to the world of HVAC contractors. In my experience, the vast majority of them are either incompetent, hacks, or purposely malicious. Sometimes they're all three.

Cutting off the flares and brazing them at the indoor unit is ridiculous, and unless they were very meticulous (flowing/purging with nitrogen the entire time) likely introduced contaminants into the system. I would be surprised if Rheem would honor the warranty. If the company that did the install is a Rheem authorized installer/distributor, I would be contacting Rheem about what they did right now.

FWIW: It appears that the Rheem unit is actually a re-branded Fujitsu system

He definitely wasnt doing that, only bottle he had up there was the fuel for the torch whatever type of gas that was.
Can the lines be decontaminated by hooking up a vacuum or something to the condenser outside?

I dont believe the guy on his own is a Rheem authorized tech, it was a side job for him. Supposedly many working installs in past but I got shafted I guess.

What did you do to solve your vane noise? Some kind of lubricant?

 

[Deception]

Don't throw the baby out with the bath water .... Rheem is a good company and they are not going to have some fly by night making the minisplits for them.

Doing a quick read I see that you are correct -- the largest head should be on the 1st port. Clearly this manual was never looked over. If this is indeed a Fujitsu .... I would find that engineering manual. It also may be a good idea to see if you can get to anybody at the Rheem engineering department that does the minisplits. Sometimes you get lucky and they talk to you and they can give you more infor in 5 min than reading for hours. With that only being a 12k -- you may be in better shape with it not on the best port.

Frankly -- if you think you want that 4th head ,,,, this is the time to do it if they have to open it up again. Otherwise --- you have to go though a full empty and recharge to add the head later.

Also -- the video you posted is a little hard to hear everything. Two things may be going on .... When the wall units are on the fan is always running and the unit is getting the room temp from the air temp coming into the unit --- normally the room temp is not from the remote. So it uses the incoming air temp and the evaporator temp to work the magic outside. When the units are off you will hear the refrigerant going through since there is no other noise .... they are not silent all the time. Very quiet -- but, they make some little noises.

You should not hear a constant sound of refrigerant going through the unit ..... the vane noise you will be able to solve if that is what is happening. My units have two 4 little motors for the vanes and another for the sensor eye .. they occasionally make a creek noise.

The problem with Rheem (for me) is they only talk to certified contractors, I tried reaching out twice by phone & messenger & got the same cookie cutter response. So basically I have to pay someone else to fix this guys mistakes. Using the original guy for anything again even if he didnt charge me seems like a really bad idea.



I'll have to see what the other tech says when he comes next week, hopefully he can diagnose all potential issues, fix them & make me a happy camper. If not, sell this ****, return the uninstalled units, and go with another brand of minisplit or a completely different HVAC system. Im already 11k deep into this, including the 4k worth of stuff that can be returned.

 

[American Locomotive]

It should be on the installer. Take him to small claims court if you have to, and report him to your state licensing board if he won't fix it. That's what all of these things were made for. Absolutely no reason why you should be on the hook for any of it. It will be almost impossible to sell those units, IMO.

If he wasn't purging with nitrogen while brazing, the system is doomed. He should have had a nitrogen bottle anyways for pressure testing the system.

 

[Deception]

It should be on the installer. Take him to small claims court if you have to, and report him to your state licensing board if he won't fix it. That's what all of these things were made for. Absolutely no reason why you should be on the hook for any of it. It will be almost impossible to sell those units, IMO.

If he wasn't purging with nitrogen while brazing, the system is doomed. He should have had a nitrogen bottle anyways for pressure testing the system.

What exactly gets ruined by him not purging the lines while brazing?

 

[PoorOwner]

He definitely wasnt doing that, only bottle he had up there was the fuel for the torch whatever type of gas that was.
Can the lines be decontaminated by hooking up a vacuum or something to the condenser outside?

I dont believe the guy on his own is a Rheem authorized tech, it was a side job for him. Supposedly many working installs in past but I got shafted I guess.

How did you find this installer if he was not an authorized tech? Doesn't he work for the company that sold you the system?

 

[Deception]

How did you find this installer if he was not an authorized tech? Doesn't he work for the company that sold you the system?

My uncle works for the distributor, gave me a deal on the new system, recommended this guy to install who works at an AC company who is a big customer of theirs. He did my brother & dad's houses without issue as far as I know.

 

[PoorOwner]

Try to go to the outdoor unit and see if you hear this click, use a second phone to monitor the audio of the indoor unit.
it could be some relay or valve clicking and the sound is transferred through the piping.

 

[Deception]

Try to go to the outdoor unit and see if you hear this click, use a second phone to monitor the audio of the indoor unit.
it could be some relay or valve clicking and the sound is transferred through the piping.

thanks Ill check that, but so far everytime ive looked at the outside unit it has been super quiet, cant even tell its running really except the air from the fan. Wish the inside units were the same

 

[American Locomotive]

What exactly gets ruined by him not purging the lines while brazing?

When you braze, the copper gets extremely hot. When the hot copper touches air, copper oxide scale forms (the black and red coating that appears on soldered and brazed copper pipes). That scale will eventually flake off and travel throughout the system, if it's really bad, it will damage the compressor. Usually what happens is it plugs up the metering valve eventually.

 

[65ranchero]

If it's a rebranded Fujitsu it could possibly the long cage blower near the vents on the indoor unit.
I had a noise when it was running and I could hear a ticking sound ( nobody else could) and it turned out to be the blower cage rubbing.
Install company confirmed noise , tech removed cage and reinstalled no more problem.

 

[Deception]

If it's a rebranded Fujitsu it could possibly the long cage blower near the vents on the indoor unit.
I had a noise when it was running and I could hear a ticking sound ( nobody else could) and it turned out to be the blower cage rubbing.
Install company confirmed noise , tech removed cage and reinstalled no more problem.

Was it a constant tick? or random like mine in the video?
Glad that worked out for ya.. hopefully mine is same issue

 

[PoorOwner]

Some brands do have a micron mesh filter in the refrigeration circuit to protect the sensitive components a little.

 

[yeldogt]

Have watched and listened to the video a couple more times. I'm hearing a lot of fan noise -- that could be because the mic is picking it up. Do you have the fan on high or is it set on auto? The high fan could be putting pressure against the vanes as they move. Vanes - I'm not seeing them move on yours .... do they? If you turn off the vane movement .... does the noise stop ?

 

[Deception]

Have watched and listened to the video a couple more times. I'm hearing a lot of fan noise -- that could be because the mic is picking it up. Do you have the fan on high or is it set on auto? The high fan could be putting pressure against the vanes as they move. Vanes - I'm not seeing them move on yours .... do they? If you turn off the vane movement .... does the noise stop ?

I usually leave it on auto mode, otherwise fans run constantly.
The vanes only move if i have it on SWEEP mode, which is off in the video
You can see them in this pic but they are black so a little hard to make out

In other news the install guy never showed up yesterday to check the freon level as far as I know. Called & texted a few times , nothing..

 

[yeldogt]

I usually leave it on auto mode, otherwise fans run constantly.
The vanes only move if i have it on SWEEP mode, which is off in the video
You can see them in this pic but they are black so a little hard to make out

In other news the install guy never showed up yesterday to check the freon level as far as I know. Called & texted a few times , nothing..

Auto mode should still have the fan running on lowest setting .... Are all the units making the same noise ? Are they all set the same way?

All of these mini splits work a bit different .... mine will move the front vanes up and down on auto to move the air around. They all have different strategies and so many settings. To my ear the click sounds like the motor is running and the vanes are stuck .... do they move properly. All of mine had a friction drive so that if someone grabbed or moved a vane manually it would not hurt anything. To reset the inner vanes --- moved the vanes right and left to stop. The front reset when turned off

 

[Deception]

Auto mode should still have the fan running on lowest setting .... Are all the units making the same noise ? Are they all set the same way?

All of these mini splits work a bit different .... mine will move the front vanes up and down on auto to move the air around. They all have different strategies and so many settings. To my ear the click sounds like the motor is running and the vanes are stuck .... do they move properly. All of mine had a friction drive so that if someone grabbed or moved a vane manually it would not hurt anything. To reset the inner vanes --- moved the vanes right and left to stop. The front reset when turned off

as per the manual.. "when AUTO is selected, fan speed automatically adjusts according to operation mode."
Ive noticed in the small office it usually keeps fan on a lower speed when it kicks on, but in living room which is harder to cool it will ramp up to higher speed more often.


The horizontal adjustment vanes are 2 black tabs that you slide by hand. No electronic control of this.

Vertical vanes are controlled electronically through the remote, can either select position 1-7, or do swing mode where it keeps moving up & down.

 

[yeldogt]

as per the manual.. "when AUTO is selected, fan speed automatically adjusts according to operation mode."
Ive noticed in the small office it usually keeps fan on a lower speed when it kicks on, but in living room which is harder to cool it will ramp up to higher speed more often.


The horizontal adjustment vanes are 2 black tabs that you slide by hand. No electronic control of this.

Vertical vanes are controlled electronically through the remote, can either select position 1-7, or do swing mode where it keeps moving up & down.

That's how they work .... since the temp sensor is in the unit at the inlet -- it needs to be sampling the incoming air. Since these units can modulate -- the fan always runs and the compressor matches the need ... the fan really can't stop.

The internal working of the various units are a bit of a mystery. Mitsubishi will only tell you so much ... they don't want to give it all away. This is true of the newest variable speed traditional split systems as well -- the thermostats and controls are where the technology is.

On a mini split there is nothing in the refrigerant loop that is going to make noise ... it's just a heat exchanger in there .... like a radiator. On start up maybe or when you change the temp ....

I did a Fujitsu years ago in the loft of a barn conversion and it worked very well -- it was not as wide and a deeper unit.

I would take the cover off and see if you can see what is making the noise

 

[65ranchero]

Was it a constant tick? or random like mine in the video?
Glad that worked out for ya.. hopefully mine is same issue

I had not viewed the video before answering my 1st post, I did just listen to it and it seems that it is a vent issue as others have said.
My noise was a constant low volume ticking only I could hear when the fan was on.

 

[Deception]

whats the trick to quieting these vents though? Ill let the new tech take one apart when he comes, but anything I can recommend to him? All 3 do this so its not a random bad head I think.

 

[yeldogt]

whats the trick to quieting these vents though? Ill let the new tech take one apart when he comes, but anything I can recommend to him? All 3 do this so its not a random bad head I think.

it does seem odd .... that why I say to take the cover off of one and take a look. make sure the covers are on correctly and not too tight.

It's odd the front vanes are not automatic ..... all those I have owned closed up when you turned them off. So -- as I said earlier these things are always changing.

The head is just a heat exchanger and blower ... each manufacturer then adds sensors and logic to make the magic.

 

[Deception]

it does seem odd .... that why I say to take the cover off of one and take a look. make sure the covers are on correctly and not too tight.

It's odd the front vanes are not automatic ..... all those I have owned closed up when you turned them off. So -- as I said earlier these things are always changing.

The head is just a heat exchanger and blower ... each manufacturer then adds sensors and logic to make the magic.

the 2 white vertical louvers/vanes are automatic, if you turn the unit completely off from the remote they close on/open on their own. Only the black ones that control the horizontal direction of air flow are manual sliders. Sorry if i didnt clarify that