ridge beam size help

[logboy]

hi, i'm new to this site and appreciate that it's here and people out there helping others. i'm building a 19' wide x 25' long garage with vaulted ceiling. Can anyone out there help with ridge beam and garage door header sizing. of coarse i would like to use 2x 's instead of engineered beams. My roof pitch is 5/12 and i plan on 2x10 rafters @ 16" oc....this is for insulation. i plan on having a built up post in the middle of the 25' span to support the ridge beam. i'm thinking that 4 - 2x12 (#2 & better) would work???? i should mention there is a gable end / dormer coming off one end of that ridge beam being supported by that ridge beam (boy i hope that made sense). so there would be a short
9' - 6" ridge beam resting on top of the 12' - 6" (1/2 of the 25' long ridge).
any thoughts, am i crazy....anyway thank you in adance for any comments.
logboy

 

[jack stand]

i'm thinking that 4 - 2x12 (#2 & better) would work???? i should mention there is a gable end / dormer coming off one end of that ridge beam being supported by that ridge beam (boy i hope that made sense). so there would be a short

You lost me brother!
Generally the ridge beam serves little support in a simple rafter roof and a single 2"x10"-12" would be fine. The "collar ties" are important and should be no more than 2/3 of the rise of the rafter, but there might be a local difference.

Once you interrupt "things" with a
dormer or additional loads that need to be carried……

Do you have a plan or a sketch?

 

[logboy]

Hey, thank you for getting back. I do have a few drawings and will figure out how to put them on here. It may take a day

 

[matt_i]

Is this a hip-roof with the dormer on what would be the gable-end?

I like to think about the ridge as a structure you hang stuff from, despite the dead loads being basically balanced. There are a lot of old buildings out there using rafters with a swaybacked ridge. I'd use an LVL because its straight, can be sized to eliminate the post, and superior strength to an equivalent SPF timber. No problem special ordering in the ~25' length....just that its going to be heavy to install.

 

[RVDan]

Yeah your plan will work but ultimately its the building inspector who is going to tell you if it's sufficient or not.
My 14" span uses 3 2x12 with 2x8 rafters at 24" oc.

 

[Cyberbear]

I believe for a structure that size a 2x ridge board the same width as the rafters will be adequate, and I saw no mention of wall support cross ties at the usual 48" o/c. Are you going to use a ceiling and drywall it or leave the garage open? If you plan on using the attic area for future storage, now is the time to plan ahead for additional strength.You didn't mention door size for the header calculation.

 

[logboy]

Hey guys, thanks so far for the comments. As you may have already guessed, I'm not a professional but like to think I know a bit. I probably was wrong by calling it a dormer. There is no hip. The reason I'm using a ridge beam, not a ridge board is there is a change in direction in to roof. The garage door would only be 9' wide. I will definitely put a couple of my drawings up tomorrow, a section and the roof plan. This will explain what I can't seem to put in writing. The reason for the 2x10 rafters is for the r28 insulation. The rafters will be strapped with 2x4 for cross ventilation. In my area (north Vancouver B.C.) there are restrictions as to height which is based on the property corner elevations. There is no attic, rather a vaulted ceiling. Anyways I' probably rambling. Till tomorrow And thank you again

 

[Know Wosad]

In all reality..sadly........you need to get with a local architect because the local "authorities" will dictate the way it "needs": to be done......even tho they probably know zilch about the matter.
Don't do a bunch of work and then get bit in the *** by govt slimeballs.

 

[pstnbly]

You don't give your location but in most circumstances a 25' long "structural ridge" is going to be a large beam requiring engineering.

 

[maxpower_hd]

I know you said you wanted to stay away from engineered lumber. But....on my 24x28 I used lvl for the Ridge beam. Then traditional lumber for the rafters. Mine spans the 24 foot way. The engineer at the lumber yard suggested the size and provided certs for building inspector. Worth the little bit of extra cost for the recommendations imo.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Ridge beam vs ridge BOARD.

A ridge BEAM is supported at each gable end. The size of the beam depends on the dead load (rafters, roof decking, shingles) it has to carry. This "style" is not very common any more, but on a 19' width you probably won't need and cross members (ceiling/floor joists) because there is less horizontal outward force.

A ridge BOARD is much thinner, maybe only a 1by. It carrys no load. It is just there as a place to nail the rafters. It is the force of the rafters against each other that that hold things up. This also means that there is a MUCH higher outward force at the top of the wall. Cross braces (joist) ARE required to prevent the wall from bowing out.

 

[Jake40]

Your ridge be should be a single 2x10 just like your rafters. Your garage door headers should be at least a doubled up 2x10 with a piece of 1/2" Osb sandwiched between them.

 

[bczygan]

hi, i'm new to this site and appreciate that it's here and people out there helping others. i'm building a 19' wide x 25' long garage with vaulted ceiling. Can anyone out there help with ridge beam and garage door header sizing. of coarse i would like to use 2x 's instead of engineered beams. My roof pitch is 5/12 and i plan on 2x10 rafters @ 16" oc....this is for insulation. i plan on having a built up post in the middle of the 25' span to support the ridge beam. i'm thinking that 4 - 2x12 (#2 & better) would work???? i should mention there is a gable end / dormer coming off one end of that ridge beam being supported by that ridge beam (boy i hope that made sense). so there would be a short
9' - 6" ridge beam resting on top of the 12' - 6" (1/2 of the 25' long ridge).
any thoughts, am i crazy....anyway thank you in adance for any comments.
logboy

How are you vaulting your ceiling? If rafters and ridge beam, then the beam must support half of the total roof load. What are the requirements where you are, for live and snow load? What interior finish for the roof? What insulation?

Nothing can be sized until details are known. And the idea of using dimensional lumber made me laugh out loud and then cry a little for all the poor deluded people who just pick a 2x10 or 2x12 for some use without having any idea what they're doing. Just because you've seem double 2x12's used for a garage door header doesn't mean it will work for your situation.

Everything MUST be engineered to save you from your own ignorance.

BTW, the use of dimensional lumber (2x10's) for rafters to accommodate insulation, is just dumb. I understand it is the only solution you are familiar with. But it won't give you enough depth for adequate insulation and airspace. Instead, use engineered rafters. They will give greater depth for the same load.

Bill

 

[lakeroadster]

Yeah your plan will work but ultimately its the building inspector who is going to tell you if it's sufficient or not.
My 14" span uses 3 2x12 with 2x8 rafters at 24" oc.

In most cases the building inspector will look for a drawing of the ridge beam and rafters, that is stamped and sealed by the engineer.

OP, as others have stated, without knowing your location your question cannot be answered.

Loadings such as seismic, wind & snow need to be considered for your area, these may also need to take into account your surrounding area (for wind considerations, wind breaks, open cleared area, etc.).

Additionally the type of roofing you will use is important: shingles or steel? If steel, will you use snow retention trim?

 

[Jake40]

How are you vaulting your ceiling? If rafters and ridge beam, then the beam must support half of the total roof load. What are the requirements where you are, for live and snow load? What interior finish for the roof? What insulation?

Nothing can be sized until details are known. And the idea of using dimensional lumber made me laugh out loud and then cry a little for all the poor deluded people who just pick a 2x10 or 2x12 for some use without having any idea what they're doing. Just because you've seem double 2x12's used for a garage door header doesn't mean it will work for your situation.

Everything MUST be engineered to save you from your own ignorance.

BTW, the use of dimensional lumber (2x10's) for rafters to accommodate insulation, is just dumb. I understand it is the only solution you are familiar with. But it won't give you enough depth for adequate insulation and airspace. Instead, use engineered rafters. They will give greater depth for the same load.

Bill[/QUOTE


The ridge beam doesn't support the weight. You line up your rafters on both sides so they push together under load and support all the weight. The ridge beam is there to hold the rafters in place until the roof is sheeted. A double 2x10 is plenty strong enough to support the weight of a door opening up as big as 16'. I do agree that LVL's would be a better choice for door headers but there is nothing wrong using dimensional lumber.

 

[lakeroadster]

The ridge beam doesn't support the weight. You line up your rafters on both sides so they push together under load and support all the weight. The ridge beam is there to hold the rafters in place until the roof is sheeted. ...

Hmm. So what keeps the walls from being pushed out away from the building Jake? The ridge beam. Push down on the rafters, they push out on the walls. The ridge beam stops vertical deflection, and therefore the ridge beam sees significant loading.

Unless you have significant bracing from side to side, like a lower truss chord, which pretty much defeats the purpose of using a ridge beam.

 

[kailor]

If you do mean a ridge board and you are using 2 x 10 lumber for rafters, then I'd use a 2 x 12 for the ridge board (you'll have to gusset 2 together to achieve the 25'). What is your snow load rating? How far is your rafter spacing? Where are you located? If you are unsure, please seek help. Also, it's cheaper to build to dimensions that are multiples of 4.

 

[Jake40]

Hmm. So what keeps the walls from being pushed out away from the building Jake? The ridge beam. Push down on the rafters, they push out on the walls. The ridge beam stops vertical deflection, and therefore the ridge beam sees significant loading.

Unless you have significant bracing from side to side, like a lower truss chord, which pretty much defeats the purpose of using a ridge beam.

That is where it gets tricky trying to use rafters. A rafter setup is designed to use a cross tie to hold the walls from pushing out. Trying to do a cathedral ceiling eliminates the ability of a cross tie so you would have to try and replicate a scissor truss to attempt to stop the pushing of the walls. With the a scissor truss style setup you will end up loosing ceiling height in excess of 18-24".

 

[readhead]

Jake, a ridge beam supports the rafters and must be supported at each end. No need for any rafter ties. A ridge board simply locates the rafters at the top but the rafters require ties to keep the tails from spreading. I hope you are aware that buildings were built with cathedral ceilings before trusses were invented.

 

[theoldwizard1]

BTW, the use of dimensional lumber (2x10's) for rafters to accommodate insulation, is just dumb. I understand it is the only solution you are familiar with. But it won't give you enough depth for adequate insulation and airspace. Instead, use engineered rafters. They will give greater depth for the same load.

I assume you mean something like a wood "I beam", 2x10 or 2x12. Or something else ?

 

[theoldwizard1]

The ridge beam doesn't support the weight. You line up your rafters on both sides so they push together under load and support all the weight.

Then it is not a ridge BEAM, it is a ridge BOARD ! A ridge BEAM is supported on each gable end, on top of a "post".

Both exist. Neither are that common these days with pre-made trusses.

Ridge BEAM are the only way you can install Structured Insulated Panels (SIPs) for your roof. Those beams are typically LVL, 4X12 or larger.

 

[bczygan]

How are you vaulting your ceiling? If rafters and ridge beam, then the beam must support half of the total roof load. What are the requirements where you are, for live and snow load? What interior finish for the roof? What insulation?

Nothing can be sized until details are known. And the idea of using dimensional lumber made me laugh out loud and then cry a little for all the poor deluded people who just pick a 2x10 or 2x12 for some use without having any idea what they're doing. Just because you've seem double 2x12's used for a garage door header doesn't mean it will work for your situation.

Everything MUST be engineered to save you from your own ignorance.

BTW, the use of dimensional lumber (2x10's) for rafters to accommodate insulation, is just dumb. I understand it is the only solution you are familiar with. But it won't give you enough depth for adequate insulation and airspace. Instead, use engineered rafters. They will give greater depth for the same load.

Bill[/QUOTE


The ridge beam doesn't support the weight. You line up your rafters on both sides so they push together under load and support all the weight. The ridge beam is there to hold the rafters in place until the roof is sheeted. A double 2x10 is plenty strong enough to support the weight of a door opening up as big as 16'. I do agree that LVL's would be a better choice for door headers but there is nothing wrong using dimensional lumber.

ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT AND DANGEROUS TO SAY!!

By it's very definition, a ridge BEAM supports half the load of the roof, which in this case could be many thousands of pounds.

A ridge BOARD can be what you are describing and can even be a 1x if that is adequate to hold the rafter in place until it's opposite is in place.

Those that know, need to refute incorrect statements on these threads.

Bill

 

[bczygan]

I assume you mean something like a wood "I beam", 2x10 or 2x12. Or something else ?

Yes, wood I beam or similar engineered members. Lighter, stronger and straighter. Probably cheaper in many cases, and deeper to allow the needed insulation, which in many places is R38 or better. 2x10's or even 12's would not work there.

People need to get on board with the idea that dimensional lumber (2x's) are not the right or even the adequate solution for many purposes anymore. Longer spans for modern houses with bigger rooms and for higher loads demand the use of engineered lumber, and in cases like this, nothing else will do as well.

Bill

 

[logboy]

good morning all. WOW. what alot of comments some good and some not so. i realize some important info is left out....just in case you haven't had enough helping i'll try and answer the questions raised (some again).
i am in the Vancouver area. The snow load is 2.7 KPA or 56.42 PSF. i was planning on an open ceiling but do realize that having some sort of finished material such as dry-wall or plywood will help structurally...so 5/8 drywall. The length of the building is 25' but there is a built up post ( 4-2x6) in the middle of that 25', supporting the ridge beam as well as the supports at both gable ends.
Bill, I've used both tji and 2x10 for rafter framing....both need to be strapped on top with something (1x4 or 2x4) for cross-air ventilation. that is if you want to get the right R value of insulation by code. Everyone has a different way of holding a pencil.....but we all seem to get our message across.
Sorry i tried to get my drawings on but failed. I've built a log home, a stick frame home, fixed or repaired many of car, painted cars for a living (now refinish furniture) but just can't insert pictures on the ding dang computer.
My resume when i die will read, sold a house without a real state agent, hiked to the base-camp of Everest, built a 1000 log home, but had to hire an engineer to size the beams in his garage
good day all and happy holiday....logboy

 

[RocketScott]

I can't imagine you will be able to pass a final inspection in the Vancouver area without engineering.

There's nothing wrong with consulting with an engineer on this. There are more factors involved than just sizing the beams to hold the roof up. We live on the pacific ring of fire and seismic activity needs to be taken into account.

 

[readhead]

All the member sizing should have been on the approved permit plans. I'm confused. Are in an area that doesn't require permits?

 

[bczygan]

good morning all. WOW. what alot of comments some good and some not so. i realize some important info is left out....just in case you haven't had enough helping i'll try and answer the questions raised (some again).
i am in the Vancouver area. The snow load is 2.7 KPA or 56.42 PSF. i was planning on an open ceiling but do realize that having some sort of finished material such as dry-wall or plywood will help structurally...so 5/8 drywall. The length of the building is 25' but there is a built up post ( 4-2x6) in the middle of that 25', supporting the ridge beam as well as the supports at both gable ends.
Bill, I've used both tji and 2x10 for rafter framing....both need to be strapped on top with something (1x4 or 2x4) for cross-air ventilation. that is if you want to get the right R value of insulation by code. Everyone has a different way of holding a pencil.....but we all seem to get our message across.
Sorry i tried to get my drawings on but failed. I've built a log home, a stick frame home, fixed or repaired many of car, painted cars for a living (now refinish furniture) but just can't insert pictures on the ding dang computer.
My resume when i die will read, sold a house without a real state agent, hiked to the base-camp of Everest, built a 1000 log home, but had to hire an engineer to size the beams in his garage
good day all and happy holiday....logboy

Not sure what you are trying to say with all the above.

What are the insulation R-values required in your area? And what kind of insulation do you propose to use?

What is this strapping you talk about?

Also, why are you planning a column at midspan of the beam and still want an open ceiling?

And you don't need to hire an engineer, as long as you know how to properly size the beam. So what are your live and dead loads /LF on each beam? And the deflection limit?

Bill

 

[ssdave]

Sorry i tried to get my drawings on but failed. I've built a log home, a stick frame home, fixed or repaired many of car, painted cars for a living (now refinish furniture) but just can't insert pictures on the ding dang computer.
My resume when i die will read, sold a house without a real state agent, hiked to the base-camp of Everest, built a 1000 log home, but had to hire an engineer to size the beams in his garage
good day all and happy holiday....logboy

I don't see how having "had wannabe engineers on an internet forum size my garage ridge beam for me" will look any better on your resume!

To size it correctly, someone will need to have the dimensions and loading pattern, and go through the calculations. Anything else is just guessing. No matter if you go to a local engineer or find someone on the internet that is interested enough to do the calculations for free and post the result on an open forum, that is the method of getting a correct beam size. Anything else is just guessing.

 

[bczygan]

hi, i'm new to this site and appreciate that it's here and people out there helping others. i'm building a 19' wide x 25' long garage with vaulted ceiling. Can anyone out there help with ridge beam and garage door header sizing. of coarse i would like to use 2x 's instead of engineered beams. My roof pitch is 5/12 and i plan on 2x10 rafters @ 16" oc....this is for insulation. i plan on having a built up post in the middle of the 25' span to support the ridge beam. i'm thinking that 4 - 2x12 (#2 & better) would work???? i should mention there is a gable end / dormer coming off one end of that ridge beam being supported by that ridge beam (boy i hope that made sense). so there would be a short
9' - 6" ridge beam resting on top of the 12' - 6" (1/2 of the 25' long ridge).
any thoughts, am i crazy....anyway thank you in adance for any comments.
logboy

Still confusing and will need some sketch or something to clarify.

Plus, do you have any openings on the gable ends? If so, how are the loads from the ends of the ridge beams carried to the ground?

Bill

 

[bczygan]

How are you vaulting your ceiling? If rafters and ridge beam, then the beam must support half of the total roof load. What are the requirements where you are, for live and snow load? What interior finish for the roof? What insulation?

Nothing can be sized until details are known. And the idea of using dimensional lumber made me laugh out loud and then cry a little for all the poor deluded people who just pick a 2x10 or 2x12 for some use without having any idea what they're doing. Just because you've seem double 2x12's used for a garage door header doesn't mean it will work for your situation.

Everything MUST be engineered to save you from your own ignorance.

BTW, the use of dimensional lumber (2x10's) for rafters to accommodate insulation, is just dumb. I understand it is the only solution you are familiar with. But it won't give you enough depth for adequate insulation and airspace. Instead, use engineered rafters. They will give greater depth for the same load.

Bill[/QUOTE


The ridge beam doesn't support the weight. You line up your rafters on both sides so they push together under load and support all the weight. The ridge beam is there to hold the rafters in place until the roof is sheeted. A double 2x10 is plenty strong enough to support the weight of a door opening up as big as 16'. I do agree that LVL's would be a better choice for door headers but there is nothing wrong using dimensional lumber.

Not necessarily true. It depends entirely on the loads imposed upon it.

Many conditions impose loads in excess of what any grade and species of 2x10 or 12 or even 16 will support within required deflection limits.

Consider if the opening is on a wall supporting a second floor with the eave of the roof above it, causing roof loads to be added. Or a situation where there is a ridge beam on a gable end above it, creating a point load on the header beam.

These are also some of the reasons that you need to know everything possible about a structure before a particular member can be sized, or an offhand question on a thread can be answered. Good engineering meets codes, solves practical user needs and does so in the most economical and usable way possible.


Bill

 

[kbs2244]

I went through all this and came up with one conclusion.
One big change. Go to steel.

For your door header, your near end post off, it your far end support post, your middle support post and your ridge beam.
Your local steel provider will be able to have an on staff engineer spec out what you need.
You may even find you do not even need the middle support post.
25 feet is not a long span for them.

I expect you will end up with two posts on each side of your door connected by a cross beam at the top plate level and a vertical from it up to your ridge height.
(Kind of like an upside down two prong fork.)
The far end will just be a post up to ridge height.
Your ridge beam will then connect the two uprights.
Do the steel first and he carpenters will just fill in the empty space.
They do not have to worry about structural loads, the steel handles that.

Turning your ridge 90 degrees would make I simpler.
That is how mine went., but your way is very doable.

Check out my build for how and why I did what I did.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296292&highlight=winter

And yes, there is a big difference between a ridge board and a ridge beam.
Ridge beams fell out of favor in the post WW II building boom.
Even more so in todays truss world.
But they were the way log cabins were built.
And they give you a cathedral style interior space.

I love mine.

 

[bczygan]

I went through all this and came up with one conclusion.
One big change. Go to steel.

For your door header, your near end post off, it your far end support post, your middle support post and your ridge beam.
Your local steel provider will be able to have an on staff engineer spec out what you need.
You may even find you do not even need the middle support post.
25 feet is not a long span for them.

I expect you will end up with two posts on each side of your door connected by a cross beam at the top plate level and a vertical from it up to your ridge height.
(Kind of like an upside down two prong fork.)
The far end will just be a post up to ridge height.
Your ridge beam will then connect the two uprights.
Do the steel first and he carpenters will just fill in the empty space.
They do not have to worry about structural loads, the steel handles that.

Turning your ridge 90 degrees would make I simpler.
That is how mine went., but your way is very doable.

Check out my build for how and why I did what I did.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296292&highlight=winter

And yes, there is a big difference between a ridge board and a ridge beam.
Ridge beams fell out of favor in the post WW II building boom.
Even more so in todays truss world.
But they were the way log cabins were built.
And they give you a cathedral style interior space.

I love mine.

It's true that steel becomes the most cost effective material when spans and loads get higher and deflection and member depths need to be minimized. And like LVL's, they can help make posts and columns disappear.

It's another material that people aren't so used to working with in residential, so they shy away from it.

The big boxes we build today make liberal use of engineered lumber and steel where needed.

And our garages here in GJ....many of them approach commercial and even industrial building sizes and clear spans.

Bill

 

[readhead]

This would be a piece of cake for steel. We would fab one day and install the next morning and back to the shop by noon. Probably less expensive than you might think.

I still haven't heard from the OP why the framing requirements weren't on the plans.

 

[pstnbly]

The ridge beam doesn't support the weight. You line up your rafters on both sides so they push together under load and support all the weight. The ridge beam is there to hold the rafters in place until the roof is sheeted. A double 2x10 is plenty strong enough to support the weight of a door opening up as big as 16'. I do agree that LVL's would be a better choice for door headers but there is nothing wrong using dimensional lumber.[/QUOTE]

Absolutely false. A roof system without collar ties (ceiling joists) or truss members would need a "structural ridge" requiring a ridge beam. A ridge beam in a roof system needs to be sized for combined "static and live loads" appropriate for the given region where the structure is located. Thus the "structural ridge" is an engineered member requiring a calculated "design".

 

[theoldwizard1]

People need to get on board with the idea that dimensional lumber (2x's) are not the right or even the adequate solution for many purposes anymore. Longer spans for modern houses with bigger rooms and for higher loads demand the use of engineered lumber, and in cases like this, nothing else will do as well.

TRUE !

"New to me" was a type of "man made" dimensional lumber that is basically OSB, with longer "flakes", that are more "oriented" (Look at a piece of OSB. Do those look "oriented" to you ?) called "parallel strand lumber".

The manufacturing process is very similar, but the uncured "mat" is think enough for the final compressed and cured sheet/slab can be cut into the appropriate width 2by material.

It should be cheaper than SPF 2by, especially >8", but I don't know how strong it is. No where near as strong wood I-beams or LVL.

 

[glentre]

About 35 years ago, I designed and built a 22' x 50' A frame house with 2nd floor loft over half and full open ceiling over the remainder. Can't remember the roof pitch but it was significantly flatter than traditional A's. I butted the rafters to each other with no ridge board. The rafters were held in place with temp 1x2's until the roof was sheathed with Homosote panels and asphalt shingles.

Many told me at the time you cant build a house without a ridge board but the house has withstood several hurricanes and trees falling on it twice. Just sayin.

Glen

 

[readhead]

A frame doesn't need a ridge beam. Different animal.

 

[maxpower_hd]

good morning all. WOW. what alot of comments some good and some not so. i realize some important info is left out....just in case you haven't had enough helping i'll try and answer the questions raised (some again).
i am in the Vancouver area. The snow load is 2.7 KPA or 56.42 PSF. i was planning on an open ceiling but do realize that having some sort of finished material such as dry-wall or plywood will help structurally...so 5/8 drywall. The length of the building is 25' but there is a built up post ( 4-2x6) in the middle of that 25', supporting the ridge beam as well as the supports at both gable ends.
Bill, I've used both tji and 2x10 for rafter framing....both need to be strapped on top with something (1x4 or 2x4) for cross-air ventilation. that is if you want to get the right R value of insulation by code. Everyone has a different way of holding a pencil.....but we all seem to get our message across.
Sorry i tried to get my drawings on but failed. I've built a log home, a stick frame home, fixed or repaired many of car, painted cars for a living (now refinish furniture) but just can't insert pictures on the ding dang computer.
My resume when i die will read, sold a house without a real state agent, hiked to the base-camp of Everest, built a 1000 log home, but had to hire an engineer to size the beams in his garage
good day all and happy holiday....logboy

When I built my garage with LVLs and Wood I-Beams I drew the drawing with some help from a builder and the engineer commented and supplied certs for the lumber he suggested. So they did the sizing and certs for free as part of the cost of the lumber. Then I was able to modify the drawing to match what he suggested and certified. NO HIRING of engineers.

 

[ard]

If I was building a 19x25 ft shop, I would ABSOLYTELY look at prefab trusses to avoid a built up post smack dab in the middle.

Using 2x10s as joists solely to create space for insulation seems a total waste of $$$. You could buy premade trusses, with space for insulation, create a roof profile, etc.

OP- take a picture. Find the picture on your computer. In a message here, click "Go Advanced"... in "additional Options" find 'manage attachments....click on 'Browse"...go to the image on your computer. CLick it...then "upload". I think

 

[bczygan]

I think the OP may have jumped ship because we didn't just support his plans.

Here's the combination I would use for his particular size building. LVL ridge beam and engineered I joists for rafters:
https://mg.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=cuudulf5bb76c#8900718704

Bill