Riding Mower Battery Life

[MooreGarage]

I just replaced the battery in my JD rider this Spring. It's had the original 2003 battery in it.

Yeah, I replaced the battery in my JD X500 last summer. It was the original 2009 battery, so I went to the JD dealer and bought another one from them. Costs double what a cheap one from wally world would, but it lasts 4 times as long.

 

[vavet]

The one on my Cub Cadet is weird. I hit the key, it gives half a crank, and then pauses. If i keep the key turned, it'll start spinning over again and fire up after a few revolutions.
It's fine as long as I don't have a restart after a very short run time. It's probably time to buy a new one.

 

[jonesg]

I jump start my riding mower everytime I use it. I mow the lawns once a week. I guess I'm cheap, and it only takes a minute to jump it.

until it quits 100 yards away from the charger and the jump pack is flat. Thats got old fast.
I bought a good battery $140, 3 years ago, I remove and bring in the house every winter, too cold in Maine.
Hoping to get 5+ yrs by taking care every winter.
I get my batteries at a pro landscape equipment place, the walmart "neverstart" battery was no good.

 

[jonesg]

Yeah, I replaced the battery in my JD X500 last summer. It was the original 2009 battery, so I went to the JD dealer and bought another one from them. Costs double what a cheap one from wally world would, but it lasts 4 times as long.

thats it, I don't want cheap, I want something that works.

 

[redmondjp]

The one on my Cub Cadet is weird. I hit the key, it gives half a crank, and then pauses. If i keep the key turned, it'll start spinning over again and fire up after a few revolutions.
It's fine as long as I don't have a restart after a very short run time. It's probably time to buy a new one.

I have just gone through this - after replacing the starter and battery on my mower with no change, I determined that the compression release feature (a tiny spring-loaded metal cam that holds one of the valves slightly open during cranking) inside the engine had failed. This is what I am guessing has happened to your engine. Google this and you will find plenty of information on it - if this is indeed what has happened, you have to disassemble the engine to get to it - it's a major job.

What I figured out to get it started as-is, was to manually rotate the engine (pushing down on the screen on top of the flywheel with both hands) slowly clockwise until it passed the big resistance (compression stroke) and then stop. This gives the starter a chance to get the engine spinning a bit before it hits the next compression stroke.

Also, using a jump-starter box to give the starter some extra boost also seemed to help.

 

[vavet]

I have just gone through this - after replacing the starter and battery on my mower with no change, I determined that the compression release feature (a tiny spring-loaded metal cam that holds one of the valves slightly open during cranking) inside the engine had failed. This is what I am guessing has happened to your engine. Google this and you will find plenty of information on it - if this is indeed what has happened, you have to disassemble the engine to get to it - it's a major job.

What I figured out to get it started as-is, was to manually rotate the engine (pushing down on the screen on top of the flywheel with both hands) slowly clockwise until it passed the big resistance (compression stroke) and then stop. This gives the starter a chance to get the engine spinning a bit before it hits the next compression stroke.

Also, using a jump-starter box to give the starter some extra boost also seemed to help.

Never heard of this "feature" before.
I appreciate the reply. I just figured it was the battery getting weak.
Any downside to just living with it?

 

[redmondjp]

Never heard of this "feature" before.
I appreciate the reply. I just figured it was the battery getting weak.
Any downside to just living with it?

As long as you can get it to start, no real downside, so long as the pieces inside the engine just sit at the bottom of the crankcase. Virtually every mower engine has some sort of compression release feature designed in - it has been this way since the 1960s.

 

[72Wagon]

I just worked on my sister in-laws rider with the 17.5 Briggs, it also had the hard start problem with new battery, I went and checked the valve clearances and they were very loose, reset to specs and it starts easily. The loose valve adjustment causes the decompression system to not work properly.

 

[LifeLongWNYer]

I have several tractors, mowers, etc. I generally get 8 - 10 years on a Interstate battery, one lasted 12 seasons. Once I finish using a machine, I back it in the shed, shut it off and plug in a BatteryTender. So, a Batterytender is on all my batteries, except when I am using them.



JBP

 

[supratreo]

I have just gone through this - after replacing the starter and battery on my mower with no change, I determined that the compression release feature (a tiny spring-loaded metal cam that holds one of the valves slightly open during cranking) inside the engine had failed. This is what I am guessing has happened to your engine. Google this and you will find plenty of information on it - if this is indeed what has happened, you have to disassemble the engine to get to it - it's a major job.

What I figured out to get it started as-is, was to manually rotate the engine (pushing down on the screen on top of the flywheel with both hands) slowly clockwise until it passed the big resistance (compression stroke) and then stop. This gives the starter a chance to get the engine spinning a bit before it hits the next compression stroke.

Also, using a jump-starter box to give the starter some extra boost also seemed to help.

this is exactly what i was doing last month but the battery still didn't have enough to spin it over one full turn. i thought the starter was burnt up so i took it apart and it was good as new. ended up needing a battery. these batteries are only lasting me 2-3 years even on a tender.

 

[rattle_snake]

Probably covered but temperature has a huge impact on battery life. In PHX AZ area, 2 years is about it. 3 is good.

 

[duneslider]

Every fall I take the battery out of the mower and store in in the basement

I trickle charge it in the spring and install it, usually never have a problem with it

So far this year I needed to use my jump pack twice to start the mower.

What gives? The battery is 5 or 6 years old.

Is it just time for a new one?

5-6 years is a long time for those batteries. However, I also think you are leaving it too long not on a charger. They really should be on a quality maintainer pretty much all the time. Lead acid batteries want to be fully charged ALL the time.

 

[niget2002]

I have the opposite issue.

I have to leave my battery on the charger between mows. At the end of each mow, the battery is drained down. I'm 99% sure the charging system on the mower isn't working. I just haven't bothered to look in to it. As long as I remember to put it on the charger after each mow, it runs fine.

 

[Farmall450]

Probably covered but temperature has a huge impact on battery life. In PHX AZ area, 2 years is about it. 3 is good.

I guess in those hot climates you want one under the seat vs in the engine compartment. Still hotter either way.

 

[D45]

So far so good

Been starting completely fine

 

[Sumboodie]

Had a Die Hard (was $$) from Sears on my yard tractor. Bought it in 2010 and was still fine last summer when.I.sold the tractor.

 

[Sumboodie]

Reminded me of a head scratcher with my older husqavarna tractor a few years ago. Battery was strong enough to start it most of the time, but if the engine (kohler command 16 I think) was being cranked right at the start of compression cycle, no go. Boosting it gave it enough juice to start. Moving it off compression by manually turning the flywheel also helped it start on its own, to give the starter enough momentum to get past compression.

Thought it was a bad battery (it was more than a few years old), but discovered online that the engine has a compression relief circuit to aid in starting. A centrifugal actuator on the cam allows the exhaust valve to stay cracked open, until the engine fires up.

I cracked the engine open, and found that this assembly had blown apart. Found all the missing pieces, replaced the assembly, and it starts fine now on the same battery I had previously.

Not saying this is your problem but maybe something to keep in mind if a battery replacement doesn't resolve the issue.

It's spelled like it's pronounced. Husq-varn-a

 

[HenryAZ]

I guess in those hot climates you want one under the seat vs in the engine compartment. Still hotter either way.

When parked, my seat stays folded up against the steering wheel, so I do not burn my *** when I sit. At battery under the seat would be about the worst place, for me, as it would be exposed to the hot AZ sun 90% of the time.

 

[Farmall450]

When parked, my seat stays folded up against the steering wheel, so I do not burn my *** when I sit. At battery under the seat would be about the worst place, for me, as it would be exposed to the hot AZ sun 90% of the time.

You store it outside?

90 won't instantly kill a battery, but in that engine compartment I imagine it gets pretty toasty when you're using it.

 

[HenryAZ]

You store it outside?

No other choice. It is behind the shed, with a battery maintainer on it.

90 won't instantly kill a battery, but in that engine compartment I imagine it gets pretty toasty when you're using it.

On my Kubota, the battery is located in front, ahead of the radiator and not in the engine compartment. 90° is springtime here.

 

[vavet]

And I’m an idiot.

i try to do battery maintenance once a year on my riding mower and generator. I remove the battery, clean the posts and terminals, clean the top, remove the caps and top up the water.
I go to start the mower Saturday. No go. I knew the battery was getting weak/compression release valve failing. I jump the battery off my truck. Starts right up. My son drives it over to start mowing. The engine dies as soon as he pulls out the pto. wont restart and the dash battery meter is flaky. My fluke meter is telling me the battery is good.
i wiggle the battery wires…the positive terminal is not tight, not even close. Not sure how I flubbed that one up so badly, but at least I figured it out and the grass got mowed.

 

[zendriver]

Every fall I take the battery out of the mower and store in in the basement

I trickle charge it in the spring and install it, usually never have a problem with it

So far this year I needed to use my jump pack twice to start the mower.

What gives? The battery is 5 or 6 years old.

Is it just time for a new one?

Maybe test it.

Get a new battery and it will **** too, if there is a problem elsewhere in the system.

 

[D45]

Guess what

Time for another battery

It will charge up completely fine

However, once the battery is installed in the mower and it sits for a week, I need to use the jump pack

 

[djbmw]

Guess what

Time for another battery

It will charge up completely fine

However, once the battery is installed in the mower and it sits for a week, I need to use the jump pack

Have you checked the fluid levels? Since its likely a "sealed" battery you will need to pry off the plastic panel covering the fill holes. Usually these are glued in place so go slow and be careful not to crack it. Once removed, look at the fluid levels. My bet is that the water has evaporated and now you have a dry battery. Fill ech cell with distilled water until 1/4" from the top of each cell. Charge up again and see what happens.

 

[PopcornSutton]

I have 2 John Deeres, both have Kawasaki engines. I think the charging system has a lot to do with battery life. I get crazy battery life with them. 8-10 years or more.

 

[CraigStu]

And I’m an idiot.

i try to do battery maintenance once a year on my riding mower and generator. I remove the battery, clean the posts and terminals, clean the top, remove the caps and top up the water.
I go to start the mower Saturday. No go. I knew the battery was getting weak/compression release valve failing. I jump the battery off my truck. Starts right up. My son drives it over to start mowing. The engine dies as soon as he pulls out the pto. wont restart and the dash battery meter is flaky. My fluke meter is telling me the battery is good.
i wiggle the battery wires…the positive terminal is not tight, not even close. Not sure how I flubbed that one up so badly, but at least I figured it out and the grass got mowed.

Don't feel bad. 2 yrs ago I was on the side of the hill and dang near flipped the mower. Had to turn down the hill from running across it to stay on all 4 wheels. Somewhere in that excitement my **** came off the seat which killed the engine. Wouldn't start. Got my wife, the truck, and a rope to tow it into the garage. Had to switch truck positions, untie the rope and retie it 3 times. 10 minutes later I realize that the big button switch that controls the blade engagement was up the 1/4" off the panel in the 'engaged' position. Yep, that ride down the hill flustered me more than I like to admit.

 

[Poolshark314]

I've had terrible luck with batteries on this zero turn. I just keep a jump pack in the mower and don't even bother buying another battery now

 

[Pabird]

I keep a trickle charger on both of my tractors batteries when not in use. Once a season I disulfate them with a separate smart charger. They are both over 8 years old. One is in a Simplicity mower and the other is in a 1979 Wheelhorse tractor.

 

[nadogail]

Every fall I take the battery out of the mower and store in in the basement

I trickle charge it in the spring and install it, usually never have a problem with it

So far this year I needed to use my jump pack twice to start the mower.

What gives? The battery is 5 or 6 years old.

Is it just time for a new one?

Modern batteries are built to a price point and we as consumers are only renting them. Sometimes we are able to get excellent value for the rent we pay. Often we feel that the value we receive for the money we have paid, frequently we feel like we were taken advantage of.

 

[Bert_]

I've found that putting a charger/maintainer on a mower a few times a year, especially before you put it away for winter, makes the battery last a lot better.

I used to get two years of I was lucky. Now the battery in my mower is going into the sixth year.

 

[D45]

I always charge it before storing it

I usually charge it once a month during the summer

Batteries ate just that, 5 year rentals

 

[finn]

I used to get two, maybe three years out of the cheap, generic batteries everywhere seems to sell….up until the last one. It’s seven, or maybe even 8 years old, and was still fine at the end of the season. I don’t even put it on a maintainer anymore. Just sits in the unheated storage lean to attached to the shop.

I fully expect it to be deceased this year, but then again, that’s what I thought for the past five springs. Same cheap battery, too.

Finally had replace the side by side battery after nine years last summer.

Edit. Someone did a like on what I posted in 2019. I thought my mower battery was seven years old then. That makes it coming up on another six years . As inconceivable as that sounds to me, that makes it almost 13 years old . I find that hard to believe. Think I’ll buy a new one, as there’s no way it’s still good after sitting another winter. I’m 2100 miles away, but should be back by the end of next week.

Mower batteries are on sale at Menards until the fourth.

 

[Bert_]

I should just put a big battery tray on my mower. Then when I get a battery too weak to start my car I could just swap it over to the mower, get a few more years of use out of it.

 

[jhelrey]

I remove mine in the winter and keep it on a battery maintainer. I keep it on the maintainer when not in use as well.

Wait until you see how cute the new batteries are in the new mowers. They are about the size of a box of mac and cheese.

 

[cody1325]

Mine's dated 2018. The one in it before was the original it shipped with from the factory in 2001.

 

[bb29510]

mine gave out at three months, I use my hole hawg to crank the motor

 

[Bert_]

mine gave out at three months, I use my hole hawg to crank the motor

Did that for a year or so until I found a <$300 starter. 20hp motor

Stripped the head on the flywheel bolt and had to weld a nut to it. Figured I better do something different before it broke off.

 

[Pen & Wrench]

I had a JD F525 Front Deck mower, bought it new in 1995, that needed a new battery every 3 years or so. I bought a new Grasshopper 725 DT6 mower in 2014 and I'm still on the original battery. I always thought the JD mower battery was barely large enough to get by, but the Grasshopper has a small car battery, and maybe that is part of why it lasts so long, I don't know, but it still is going strong.

 

[adsinnott1]

I keep one of these or something similar on all batteries that are not my truck and car that get driven regularly. This includes the mower that gets used once a week. They all have the quick connect tender plug and as soon as I get done mowing it gets plugged right back in. SXS, zero turn, boat, camper; all plugged in as soon as done being used. My mower battery is 9 years old and no signs of any issues. Boat batteries are even older.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/battery-tools-accessories/battery-chargers-maintainers/12v-deluxe-battery-maintainer-and-float-charger-62813.html

 

[maxmerc]

I had a 1999 Craftsman with 19.5 twin flat head. Bought it in 2000. First battery I bought lasted one year. I had a spare car battery so I made it fit. Lasted a couple years. After that I just jumped it and ran with no battery for the next 18 years. Retired it last year.