Rigging Question - How do I get my mill off the shoring blocks?

[slodat]

I went to look at a cutting torch I found on craigslist and ended up dragging home a Grizzly knee mill instead. I got it unloaded and it is in the position I'd like to set it in. It is currently resting on 1.5" square tubing passing under the fork lift pockets. The tubing is setting on stacks of (3) 2x4s so I could get the pallet jack out from under it.

Now comes the fun part - How do I get it down?

I don't have anything above it to hook my chain fall to..

Thanks in advance for any help!!

 

[brownfoot]

use the egyptian method...........

use your pallet jack to move it under your chain fall
lift it enough to remove the shipping bars
lower it onto 1/2 or 3/4 pipes or round bars (you'll need 3 about a foot longer than the machine is wide)
it will roll easily, keep them spaced, as it is off of the trailing one, move it ahead so that two are under it all the time
when back in place, use a pry bar( 2-3' wrecking bar) to lift just enough to remove the pipe/bar and set it down on the floor
most bases have a notch in the front and back of the casting in the center to do this

or if you have a cherry picker, doubt it weighs much more than a dressed engine, under 1000 lbs.

 

[slodat]

It weighs 2000 pounds. I'm going to look at the cherry picker option tomorrow... I only need to lift if for a moment..

 

[OccupantRJ]

You can change out the wood blocks for 3/4 thick ones, and using a long prybar, lever one side at a time, removing the blocks on that side. Last step is off the pry bar heel with a slight thump, unless your mill has the prybar cutouts in the base. This requires a helper to remove blocks as needed, but works very well. The 3/4 or less thickness wood will keep the mill more upright during the process. I move equipment around in my job, so this is a proven method. Right now, I have my mill bolted to a couple of 4 X4 pieces to allow me to move it around with the pallet jack as needed while I work on the shop. Depending on how tall you are, you may like yours up higher anyway, once you start running it.

 

[rasit]

Nice score!
Use the caveman method: get the sledge hammer and start beating the
2X4's out from under one at a time until only the steel channel remains, and then beat that out too. It's not top heavy so there is no danger of it tipping over...don't be scared.

 

[OccupantRJ]

See my signature, unless you enjoy gravity testing.

 

[s_ontario]

Nice score!
Use the caveman method: get the sledge hammer and start beating the
2X4's out from under one at a time until only the steel channel remains, and then beat that out too. It's not top heavy so there is no danger of it tipping over...don't be scared.

x2 I agree

or replace all your blocking with 4 wedges and then sledge the wedges out

 

[brownfoot]

if you use the pry bar and lower from 2x to 1x, recommend that you do front, back, front, back, etc.
the base is fairly narrow on those so tipping side to side is an easy way to get it off balance

if it was a rock or an item like a steel box, maybe the caveman method is a way, but not a very good one, this is a machine tool and rough handling is not going to do it any good

 

[brownfoot]

Grizzly website shows a 1600 lb. weight

 

[larry_g]

You can change out the wood blocks for 3/4 thick ones, and using a long prybar, lever one side at a time, removing the blocks on that side. Last step is off the pry bar heel with a slight thump, unless your mill has the prybar cutouts in the base. This requires a helper to remove blocks as needed, but works very well. The 3/4 or less thickness wood will keep the mill more upright during the process. I move equipment around in my job, so this is a proven method. Right now, I have my mill bolted to a couple of 4 X4 pieces to allow me to move it around with the pallet jack as needed while I work on the shop. Depending on how tall you are, you may like yours up higher anyway, once you start running it.

RJ has it correct, cut up a bunch of 1/2" or 3/4" by 6" squares of plywood and get the 4 corners of the mill base sittting on a stack. I worked a project in Singapore once where the rigging crew arrived to move a machine set and one of the tools they brought was a 4'x4' box full of these plywood shims, color coded to thickness, to use in levering the machine down to the floor. These were 20-30klb machines. And ignore the sledge method and the advise of 'not top heavy'. Many of these machines have been tipped over due to the narrow base and high CG. Just as advised by another do front first then back. Be careful and have only ONE person calling instrudtions.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[rsanter]

prybar and blocks
one end at a time you pry it up and remove one layer of block at a time
last step you will put it right on the ground

bob

 

[msnow]

You might look into getting what is known as a "Johnson bar" or lever dolly. They are extremely useful for this kind of operation and then do the plywood method. Personally I like to use small jacks to let it down until my jacks won't fit anymore and then go with the the bar. You might consider calling a machinery moving company and just letting them come over and do it I doubt they would charge you much since you already have it in place. I do this kind of work for a living and strongly advise against the sledge hammer method unless you are like a half inch off the ground.

 

[slodat]

I used the pry bar method mentioned above. Thank you all for your help!! It is on the ground and about to be powered up!!

 

[OccupantRJ]

Still got all your fingers and toes?

 

[A_Pmech]

I used the pry bar method mentioned above. Thank you all for your help!! It is on the ground and about to be powered up!!

Good work.

 

[flatheadguy]

Definitely the pry bar method as described by OccupantRJ. I have moved my Bridgeport from Florida, to California, to Nebraska. I always used the pry bar system. And, three
1.5" pipes to roll it where I want it to end up. On the Bridgeport I run the table as low as possible and run it all the way out. Then I tilt the head 180 degrees. This gets the C.G. low and makes it less prone to tipping.
Nice score. You'll find all sorts of uses for it.

 

[slodat]

I'm having some upgrade fever. I'm also finding some good deals. No more than I lowered the new mill to the floor and I found my dream lathe. I was able to sell the lathe I have today for enough to buy the new machine. More rigging tomorrow to get this girl in place.

 

[Bigpigdave]

Lucky you, great scores. Enjoy your new machinery and be safe.
Thanks, Dave

 

[Joe From NY]

I know it's an old thread, but check out this homemade tool that might have helped out: http://www.truetex.com/mattock.htm

http://www.truetex.com/mattock.pdf
.

 

[lametec]

I found propping a piece of 2"x6" under the Y-axis handle "bracket" (whatever it's called.. the piece that bolts to the front of the knee and has the handle coming out of it) then cranking the knee lower easily lifts the front end of my Bridgeport. From there, stick pipes or whatever you're working with under it, then lower.

I you put once pipe about in the center, then raise knee (lower mill) to remove wood piece, the mill will tip either way depending on where you placed the pipe. Now stick another pipe under the side that's up and then give the mill a push. It'll come down on the second pipe and be ready for rolling.

Same method can be used to place/remove wood blocks.

 

[A_Pmech]

The right tool for the job is a Nose Bar.

#1 Nose Bars are $75 and #3's are $95.

http://www.easternrigging.com/prybar.htm

 

[ZRX61]

Nice SB

 

[LOWright]

Spud Bar ( Pry Bar ) like they use on railroad track. I have one and use it for eveyrthing.