Right Angle (Joist and Stud) Drills

[BDFan1981]

Could you please answer this: has anyone ever used a (corded) right-angle drill, or joist and stud drill (as it's called because of the usage it is typically associated with: drilling large holes in joists and studs for plumbing piping), to drive screws and drill small holes to augment the screws?

Examples of RADs (or JSDs):
Black & Decker 1301/1348 (also DeWalt DW120)
Black & Decker TIMBERWOLF 1349-09 (also DeWalt DW124)
Milwaukee HOLE HAWG 1675/1676

For screw driving, these beasts will need to be set to their lowest possible speeds (B&D 1301/1348/DeWalt DW120: 400 RPM, right-angle head in LOW gear; B&D 1349-09/DeWalt DW124: 300 RPM, clutch in LOW gear).

Thank you,



Ben Edge (BDFan1981)

 

[Jason280]

I spent several summers using a Milwaukee Hole Hawg to rough in houses, and still have one today. I rarely use it, and when I do, its usually to drill holes in thick metal that I can't get on the drill press.

As far as using one to drive screws, I don't see the point. There are quite a few other drills that are better suited for driving screws, that are much more comfortable to use. Why would you want to use such a large, ungainly drill to drive screws? Even big lag bolts in wood are easily driven with cordless impacts, so maybe I'm simply not understanding your post.

 

[Mickey O]

I have a few Milwaukee's and have used them to drive lag bolts and the occasional dec screw, works fine.

 

[metaldad]

I have a Milwaukee USA #1001-1 right angle.
Got to have one, some times when a hole saw 'bites in', a regular drill will either knock you out when it smacks you in the snot locker, or break your wrist.
I also have a Hole Hawg,
I do have a Makita and a De walt cordless angles, among many other drills.
Each drill has it's use. I wouldn't drive lags with the big drills, too bulky. As jason stated, an impact works great.

 

[BDFan1981]

I have a Milwaukee USA #1001-1 right angle.
Got to have one, some times when a hole saw 'bites in', a regular drill will either knock you out when it smacks you in the snot locker, or break your wrist.
I also have a Hole Hawg,
I do have a Makita and a De walt cordless angles, among many other drills.
Each drill has it's use. I wouldn't drive lags with the big drills, too bulky. As jason stated, an impact works great.

But one of my main questions was: would you folks ever use these beasts to drive screws to cabinet doors and such?

~Ben

 

[metaldad]

But one of my main questions was: would you folks ever use these beasts to drive screws to cabinet doors and such?

~Ben

Really?

 

[rockchucker]

No. You would not use a Hole Hawg to drive Screws into Cabinets and such. lol

I have this one that I use to attache ~12" Cabinets together...


Milwaukee...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223HN/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They work absolutely great. Unless you try to perform a Hole Hawg's job with them by attaching a 6" Carbide Grit Hole saw and try to go through a Stucco Exterior Wall...lol Don't ask me how I know. They did take the return after the fact though. I believe they have plastic gears though. At least that is what they sounded like after the fact.


Very good clearance. If you don't use it much then you can get the same case with different innards for <$40 from Amazon. If you want it to last then pony up and get the Milwaukee.

 

[BDFan1981]

No. You would not use a Hole Hawg to drive Screws into Cabinets and such. lol

I have this one that I use to attache ~12" Cabinets together...


Milwaukee...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223HN/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They work absolutely great. Unless you try to perform a Hole Hawg's job with them by attaching a 6" Carbide Grit Hole saw and try to go through a Stucco Exterior Wall...lol Don't ask me how I know. They did take the return after the fact though. I believe they have plastic gears though. At least that is what they sounded like after the fact.


Very good clearance. If you don't use it much then you can get the same case with different innards for <$40 from Amazon. If you want it to last then pony up and get the Milwaukee.

I've seen that drill before. Some people call it the "Duck" because of its resemblance to the farm fowl.

~Ben

 

[signcrafter]

But one of my main questions was: would you folks ever use these beasts to drive screws to cabinet doors and such?

~Ben

I have about two dozen plus various drills from a small close quarters to a holehawg and from battery/corded/air powered. I would NEVER use a right angle joist drill to put in cabinet screws! You won't be able to control it like you need to. Those drills are made for one thing, HIGH torque to drill threw material. These drills don't usualy stop when you let off the trigger. They take a minute to "wind down". So driving a 1/2" long cabinet door screw even if you hit the trigger and let off right away it will still strip the screw out. I wouldn't even use these drills for lag bolts like one member suggested, if it catches it will spin your arms around and twist them off before you can let go.

I'm not sure what you point in asking this question was but the answer is use the right drill for the right application. You can pick up a decent 3/8" electric drill or cordless for not to much.

 

[BDFan1981]

I have about two dozen plus various drills from a small close quarters to a holehawg and from battery/corded/air powered. I would NEVER use a right angle joist drill to put in cabinet screws! You won't be able to control it like you need to. Those drills are made for one thing, HIGH torque to drill threw material. These drills don't usualy stop when you let off the trigger. They take a minute to "wind down". So driving a 1/2" long cabinet door screw even if you hit the trigger and let off right away it will still strip the screw out. I wouldn't even use these drills for lag bolts like one member suggested, if it catches it will spin your arms around and twist them off before you can let go.

I'm not sure what you point in asking this question was but the answer is use the right drill for the right application. You can pick up a decent 3/8" electric drill or cordless for not to much.

I guess I could say that 70 foot-pounds (not inch-pounds) of torque would be way too much for the average cabinet screw, right?

~Ben

 

[RCStocker]

But one of my main questions was: would you folks ever use these beasts to drive screws to cabinet doors and such?

~Ben

Not in a million years. You can't hold the screw, drill and keep the hinge in place. They are not vary speed. They might make that modle but there are small cordless or air drills that do a great job if you can't get to the screws inside a cabinet.

That is like using a D8 cat to mow the lawn.

As was stated
Really?

 

[fivespdcat]

Just get a 12v impact driver. If you're already invested in the Bosch system you can get the bare tool for like $60 off amazon. I just couldn't imagine using a holehawg to drive screws. You probably could do it, but the real question is: why would you?

 

[signcrafter]

That is like using a D8 cat to mow the lawn.

As was stated
Really?

Great example!

 

[BDFan1981]

Great example!

I also probably wouldn't use the other large 1/2" end-handle drills for this purpose, either: y'know, models 1317 or 1321, despite the fact that both have 450 RPM drilling speeds, also non-variable.

~Ben

 

[BWS]

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...e_pr&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Drills-Drive


This is the "new" version and can't endorse........but our older models of this drill motor is the "flex-ratchet" of cabinet drills.You will be spoiled for life the first time you use one for driving screws and drills inside of cabmets......hamnging them or building them.

Our HH(hole-hog)....you could chuck up a decent sized 1/2" drill motor in a HH,and then turn the drill motor and bit.Theres a reason HH's come with NPT attachment points...and it ain't for driving cabmet screws.

 

[danski0224]

But one of my main questions was: would you folks ever use these beasts to drive screws to cabinet doors and such?

If you are looking for a drill for cabinet work, there is nothing better than one of these:

http://www.festoolusa.com/products/cordless-drills/c12-cordless-drill-564178.html

The 90* attachment is rock solid.

The offset eccentric attachment is unique and very handy.

Both attachments also rotate and lock into different positions on the drill body.

The small size gets into small places. The chuck accessory can be removed to expose a 1/4" chuck, making the drill body smaller yet.

This is a brushless drill motor, and it will outperform many standard 18v drills. It is also constant torque, and it will maintain the drive RPM while setting a fastener unless tool load is exceeded.

This drill will sink a 3" GRK cabinet screw through a piece of 3/4" pine stock (like a 1 x 4 cleat) set on drywall over a stud.

Not cheap, but if you do cabinets, you need one.


This is probably the best 90* attachment for 1/4" quick release drills and bits/drivers: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/access...ng/adapters/right-angle-attachment/49-22-8510

 

[JASTECH]

I have the DW124 sence over 10 yrs ago. I would not drive screws with it unless they were huge. With the reduction gear it is very strong, used it to run plumbing through beams that were sistered and not. I have not used it in many years, worth keeping just in case. I have an old B&D too.

 

[signcrafter]

Could you please answer this: has anyone ever used a (corded) right-angle drill, or joist and stud drill (as it's called because of the usage it is typically associated with: drilling large holes in joists and studs for plumbing piping), to drive screws and drill small holes to augment the screws?

Examples of RADs (or JSDs):
Black & Decker 1301/1348 (also DeWalt DW120)
Black & Decker TIMBERWOLF 1349-09 (also DeWalt DW124)
Milwaukee HOLE HAWG 1675/1676

For screw driving, these beasts will need to be set to their lowest possible speeds (B&D 1301/1348/DeWalt DW120: 400 RPM, right-angle head in LOW gear; B&D 1349-09/DeWalt DW124: 300 RPM, clutch in LOW gear).

Thank you,



Ben Edge (BDFan1981)

I also probably wouldn't use the other large 1/2" end-handle drills for this purpose, either: y'know, models 1317 or 1321, despite the fact that both have 450 RPM drilling speeds, also non-variable.

~Ben

I don't get your posts? Do you have one of these drills that you are wanting to use for screwing cabinet doors? Are you looking to buy a new drill? What are you trying to ask here so you can get the answer you need? It seems like you have one of these bigger drills and want to use it because you don't have a smaller one?

Drills aren't a one tool to do all jobs thing. Different drills for different jobs. Most can get by with two, maybe three drills. A smaller one for delicate jobs like screws and small diameter drilling, usually these drills will spin at a higher RPM and some are variable speed. Then a more powerful 1/2" low RPM drill for drilling larger diameter holes. Most homeowners can get by with these two drills. Then there are all sorts of specialty drills like right angle, close quarters, cordless(which is more the standard then specialty these days), and all sorts of other drills.

 

[BDFan1981]

I wanted to say thank you for all the suggestions.

Regards,



Ben