Have a stack of 2X6’s I need to rip into 2X4’s. They are 10’ & 12’ long. Needing something to place 4 or 5 feet past my table saw to support the boards. I can picture what I need, something with a solid base, adjustable height with a roller on top. I just don’t know what it’s called to begin to search for one. What is the name of this??
Ripping boards
- Thread starter KansasArt
- Start date
roblouvasz
Well-known member
Roller stand. Harbor freight has them.
Something like this https://www.acmetools.com/tri-function-roller-stand-pm-5093/814000014192.html
APEowner
Well-known member
Outfeed Roller
Innovate1
Well-known member
Half-fast eddie
Well-known member
For a 12 ft board, you might want a second roller at about 10 ft out. Set it an inch or two lower than the table.
zc15
Well-known member
Sell them and buy the 2x4s. May even come out on top!
Nutria
Well-known member
I like these a lot better than rollers.
RIDGID Flip Top Portable Work Support AC9934 - The Home Depot
RIDGID introduces the Flip Top Portable Work Support. Folding down almost flat for easy transport or storage, the RIDGID Flip Top Portable Work Support is a convenient addition to your work area. Constructed
www.homedepot.com
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Looks not in stock locally.I like these a lot better than rollers.
RIDGID Flip Top Portable Work Support AC9934 - The Home Depot
RIDGID introduces the Flip Top Portable Work Support. Folding down almost flat for easy transport or storage, the RIDGID Flip Top Portable Work Support is a convenient addition to your work area. Constructedwww.homedepot.com
Of course not in stock locally. Nearest one is 45 miles away. Looks like the orange apron store is my best bet.
510ebl
Well-known member
The roller stand is of course the right tool, but a six foot folding plastic banquet “out feed” table might be used more often for more things.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Really, in a pinch most any sort of table or prop will work. You just need something that's a little lower than the height of the table saw deck (they will sag a little as they come off the saw.) Even a kitchen chair, if it's the right height.
Or, if you have a wife/kid/friend who's willing to help out, just have them support the ends as they come off the saw.
Innovate1
Well-known member
With the length of boards being used this is really the best. A roller stand can work but a helper is easier and better. Don't have to reach across the saw.
rooster59
Well-known member
Can you build 1 wall as 2x6? Window & door headers? Rafters?
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Half-fast eddie
Well-known member
Not a good idea, unless the helper is proficient at ripping boards. Much too easy to skew the board to one side, pinching the blade, getting a bad cut. Or trying to pull the board through.
nadogail
Well-known member
Can you recruit a Helper to act as your Off Barer? The Off Barer is equally as important as the saw operator and requires a degree of skill.
billconner
Well-known member
I have the roller type but want to upgrade to the "ball" type. I find if the roller is not perfectly square to the saw, it can tend to pull the board to one side or they other. A table or just one board anchored to saw and a stand would also be fine, just storage space.
Shiftless
Well-known member
What is the desired length of the 2x4s you will need for building your shed? If they are shorter than your 2x6s, cut them to length before ripping. That will make ripping easier.
As others have already said, a semi skilled at least person on the outfeed is a good idea. Have them wear a dust mask and goggles. No earplugs though…they have to be able to hear you scream directions If the board is getting pinched against the blade.
As others have already said, a semi skilled at least person on the outfeed is a good idea. Have them wear a dust mask and goggles. No earplugs though…they have to be able to hear you scream directions If the board is getting pinched against the blade.
Half-fast eddie
Well-known member
Been there ... done that.
Left! Left! the other left!
Shiftless
Well-known member
Yeah, …kickback is no joke.
Just a reminder here… ALWAYS STAND TO ONE SIDE WHILE FEEDING BOARDS INTO A TABLE SAW
Just a reminder here… ALWAYS STAND TO ONE SIDE WHILE FEEDING BOARDS INTO A TABLE SAW
Innovate1
Well-known member
It's not THAT complicated. But good help is hard to find sometimes.
Innovate1
Well-known member
I am facing a similar task. In my case my deck boards were installed with very little space between them so little bits of stuff don't fall through. I am going to take them up and rip the width down slightly. Might do it on a router table for a smoother finish but if I do it on the table saw I am thinking some feather boards would be a good idea. If you push the board sideways you can overpower them but it should help with keeping the material against the fence. Would be a plus on the router table too.
shoot summ
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- Jun 8, 2010
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For long boards I will typically rip it and flip it. Run it half way, then flip it and finish it out.
Just re-space them....
Innovate1
Well-known member
That's what I first thought but I have cutouts for posts in several places and it's a fairly small deck. Not wide enough to eliminate one whole board. I can't just move the cutouts for posts over half a board. If I just respace them I would have to put in one narrow board. If you have a way to do it I would be seriously interested to hear it.
My plan is to take up every other board and trim it down about 3/8". Thinking I need to do both sides because I need to use the same screw holes - they can't easily be moved 1/8". The boards won't all be exactly the same width but the difference will be small so not that noticable - at least that's what I am thinking.
Shiftless
Well-known member
If you had the right bit and a good guide you could just router a quarter inch groove without lifting the boards at all.
Wear knee pads.
Wear knee pads.
The smart and skilled end of this operation in the feeder.
SIMPLE …………tell the helper………guide and support only, don’t pull, don’t push. Hleper is only there to stop the drop. This is not rocket science. If you guys are that uncertain of simple table saw operation…..it’s best to stay away.
No helper………find table, work bench, stool thats 1/4” lower than the table saw …….perfect run off table, no drop, no helper.
The roller stands have their own issues ………..like tipping over, so buy a sand bag.
Milton Shaw
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- Messages
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Cutting those boards in half will give you two boards that are warped badly. Construction lumber is dried so fast that it's moisture is uneven in the board and so when split apart it will warp, that drying method is called case hardened lumber.
captain14
Well-known member
Those were discontinued 8-10 years ago when HD purged a lot of inventory at some point. I remember see a couple on the shelf covered in dust.
Ive used about anything you can think of for an outfeed table. Sawhorses work just fine if you can get everything to the right height.
I've ripped more 8 ft 2x4s in my life than I care to remember and I would NEVER let anyone grab the other end.....if they F-up it's your **** that's taking a board to the junk.
The 'rip and flip' method works pretty well too.
A guy could make some stands pretty easy with a piece of PVC pipe on top to act as a roller if that's what you really wanted.
I've ripped more 8 ft 2x4s in my life than I care to remember and I would NEVER let anyone grab the other end.....if they F-up it's your **** that's taking a board to the junk.
The 'rip and flip' method works pretty well too.
A guy could make some stands pretty easy with a piece of PVC pipe on top to act as a roller if that's what you really wanted.
3/8" gap on a deck board is huge! 1/8" gap is plenty.
Roller stands are a pain in the back side! Never the right height, the board you are ripping bumps into the stand instead of going over the stand. The stand twists to the side so the roller is at a bit of an angle and pulls the board one way or the other. A long outfield table or a quality helper works better. My wife who is not skilled in these matters does a great job handling outfield duties.
I have, on occasion, added some scrap wood to the outfield table on my saw when I needed to rip some long boards.
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X2 , I do it all the time
Innovate1
Well-known member
That's the total for the every other board. The increase in gap will be half that.
I don't recommend this one. The special bolts used to fasten the foot are too short and as a result the foot has a tendency to slip sideways and the stand comes crashing down.
MushCreek
Well-known member
I'm always ripping long stuff. Just two days ago, I was ripping 20' 1X's. I have two roller stands. One isn't a roller; it's a flat plastic top that sits at an angle to catch the edge of the board, then flattens out as the board goes up on it. It works much better than a roller. If a roller stand isn't exactly lined up, it will make the board walk one way or the other. The flat top stand was made by Ridgid; don't know if it's available any more.
As for ripping 2X's- I've rarely been successful at it. For some reason, they always close up as you rip. They either bind on the splitter, or on the blade itself if you don't use a splitter.
As for ripping 2X's- I've rarely been successful at it. For some reason, they always close up as you rip. They either bind on the splitter, or on the blade itself if you don't use a splitter.
Got the first batch done. Went smoothly. 2 $29 stands from Home Depot. Well constructed except the handle that you screw in to tighten it to your desired height. Just held on by a tiny tack weld. One broke immediately. Returned it, replacement broke. I’ll just use a C clamp to hold it.
I thought about cutting them to length, but the shed is a fall project. No plans drawn up so don’t know what length to cut them.
I really appreciate the tips from the pro’s!
Thanks!
I thought about cutting them to length, but the shed is a fall project. No plans drawn up so don’t know what length to cut them.
I really appreciate the tips from the pro’s!
Thanks!