Ripping Off Old Siding

[James-W]

A friend of mine has aluminum siding that was installed right over wood siding. This coming Spring he wants to tear it all off and install rigid foam insulation and then put on vinyl siding. He wants me to help him and I probably will, but I have never done this sort of thing before. How much of a job is it to tear off the aluminum siding and then the wood siding?

 

[CNGsaves]

Suggest he tear out a small test section to make SURE that the underlying "wood" layer under the aluminum siding is indeed wood . . . . because . . IF . . . it's any kind of asbestos siding, he'll have much more work/precautions he'll have to do.

If the aluminum siding is good shape, he could "FREE Craigslist" that to someone willing to carefully remove aluminum siding for re-use.

Then that last wood siding layer would go fast as you could pry it off with reckless abandon !!

For new wood siding going on, be sure to use compressor and pneumatic nailer.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

A friend of mine has aluminum siding that was installed right over wood siding. This coming Spring he wants to tear it all off and install rigid foam insulation and then put on vinyl siding. He wants me to help him and I probably will, but I have never done this sort of thing before. How much of a job is it to tear off the aluminum siding and then the wood siding?

Depending on how big the house is Id say recruit a couple of young guys with hammers and pry bars to get the steel siding off.
Then repeat the process on the wood,but add a couple of skil saws set to the right depth to speed the process up.

 

[RM209]

Tearing off the aluminum siding is very manageable, but along with tearing off the wood siding, it will be a big job, and will generate lot of trash that will need to be hauled off. However, like many home improvement jobs, you'll probably also discover some underlying damage, such as rotten framing, which will add to the work required before the new siding goes on. Before you begin the install, check out some of the youtube videos on installing siding; it will make it easier to understand, and you'll see how many of the accessories fit the siding.

RM209

 

[Jackfre]

Get the Aluminum off. Skill saw making vertical cuts every 3-4' makes it easier to handle. Good advise to do a small test section first.

 

[James-W]

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated. I will let him know your thoughts on this and he can decide what he wants to do. I really like the idea of having a couple young guys rip off the aluminum siding, they will maybe do it for free if he gives them the aluminum to sell for scrap. The wood siding he may have to pay them to remove and he will have to get a dumpster to put all the old wood in, but that shouldn't be a big problem.

 

[75gmck25]

How old is the building you are working on? If its from the 40's or 50's, the wood siding may be part of the building structure, and removing it could allow the 2x4s to rack out of alignment.

In newer construction they brace on a diagonal with 2x4s and then add OSB or foam insulation on top, but older houses used 1"x6" or 1x8 lumber running across the 2x4 framing, then covered it with tar paper and finished it with lap board or other siding.

Bruce

 

[mike93lx]

If the aluminum siding is good shape, he could "FREE Craigslist" that to someone willing to carefully remove aluminum siding for re-use.

IMO, the minimal cost that throwing away the aluminum would far outweigh the risk of having someone get hurt on my property. Once the siding is off, someone can have at it, but I would never allow someone that I don't know to do work on my house (without their own insurance).

 

[vicegripbloodblister]

IMO, the minimal cost that throwing away the aluminum would far outweigh the risk of having someone get hurt on my property. Once the siding is off, someone can have at it, but I would never allow someone that I don't know to do work on my house (without their own insurance).

My thoughts exactly Mike...very good advice.

 

[James-W]

How old is the building you are working on? If its from the 40's or 50's, the wood siding may be part of the building structure, and removing it could allow the 2x4s to rack out of alignment.

In newer construction they brace on a diagonal with 2x4s and then add OSB or foam insulation on top, but older houses used 1"x6" or 1x8 lumber running across the 2x4 framing, then covered it with tar paper and finished it with lap board or other siding.

Bruce

I am not certain of the exact age of the house, but the whole subdivision he lives in was built after WWII so I figure it was built late 40's or early 50"s. I suspect the walls are covered on the outside with boards, but I don't know that for a fact.

 

[James-W]

IMO, the minimal cost that throwing away the aluminum would far outweigh the risk of having someone get hurt on my property. Once the siding is off, someone can have at it, but I would never allow someone that I don't know to do work on my house (without their own insurance).

I agree, that would not be the smartest thing to do. He may know someone who will do it, I know he has a couple friends who have kids who are out of work because he mentioned that to me. If they are still out of work come Spring, perhaps they would be more than willing to do it. But again, I am not sure that is the best idea either.

 

[rburke65]

There are areas around here all ya would have to do is go on vacation for a week and when ya returned.....you wouldnt have any siding!

 

[James-W]

There are areas around here all ya would have to do is go on vacation for a week and when ya returned.....you wouldn't have any siding!

I am glad I don't live there.

 

[fury9]

Rip it off with your hammer, start at the top. Use the hammer to gouge into the siding downwards. Or go and systematically pop out the nails if ripping it off doesn't go easy. DO NOT use your hands, you can severely cut them in an instant. Use common sense obviously, you can grab the piece but you don't wan to be cranking on it

 

[mark11]

The aluminum is probably just held on with roofing nails so it'll rip off easily, start at the top as mentioned already. If the wood siding is wood lap siding it'll come off easy enough too, just make sure it's not old asbestos siding. There isn't much reason to add foam board if the wood siding's coming off, foam's usually added to flatten things out but if you go down to plywood things will be flat. I ripped all the wood siding off my house and did vinyl. Changed all the windows and doors at the same time.

 

[James-W]

My concern about doing this is that I am 66 years old, will be 67 this coming March, and I have arthritis in my hands pretty bad. My friend is 3 years older than I am and he isn't in the best of health either. A lot of the work we could do from the ground, but quite a bit of it would need to be done on ladders. I am not very good at climbing anymore and neither is he.

Maybe I am a little too cautious about this, maybe I should just go at it with enthusiasm like I would have done in my younger days. But now that I have issues with my health I tend to look at things long and hard before I decide I want to tackle a particular project.

I do want to thank everyone for their thoughts and ideas on this, believe it or not it helps a lot.

 

[James-W]

I forgot to mention about the rigid insulation. He wants to add the rigid insulation and then tape the seams because he feels it would tend to seal up the house better and it would add at least a little "R" value to the house. There is insulation in the walls now but he figures by adding the rigid insulation on the outside it will make the house more comfortable.

 

[manwithtools]

I would not bother removing the wood siding, it adds structural strength that the rigid foam wont replace. I'd simply add house wrap to cut down on air infiltration and then add the new siding over that. Given the amount of effort to remove the siding and the potential added energy savings I wold not even bother. Spend the money on window or door upgrades for the maximum return.

Aluminum will come off easily, the wood not so much. The aluminum will have some scrap value....

 

[Badattitude]

If you're concerned about working from ladders, use pump jacks or pipe staging. But if the real concern is due to you and your buds age or physical abilities...hire it out.

Myself: I'd strip all the old siding right down to the sheathing. If the house is old enough and has no sheathing, now's the time to add it. The real advantage is you can visually inspect for any rot or insect damage...especially around window and door openings. With 2 layers of siding, good chance you will find something somewhere that needs to be addressed. No sense in wrapping it with vinyl and having the walls rot away without being aware of it. Another advantage is you can correct any flashing deficiencies if they exist.

One word of caution: based on the age of the home, your likely going to have to deal with the POCO lines that run on top of the siding that you're removing. Be safe and have the power disconnected, or have someone who has experience with this on site.

 

[Badattitude]

Something else to consider...

I agree the foam board doesn't add a whole lot of R value, but every little bit helps for a windbreak when combined with house wrap. In addition, if you tape all the seams and pay close attention to all the wall penetration details, you can have an effective rain screen.

 

[Voi]

Something else to consider...

I agree the foam board doesn't add a whole lot of R value, but every little bit helps for a windbreak when combined with house wrap.

Yup. R value may not seem like much but it adds insulation where it is most effective and creates a thermal break which will basically eliminate thermal bridging through studs. It's also considered one of the better ways to air-seal and boost R values in older homes - I'd imagine especially so in older homes with plank type sheathing.

However, return on investment in the OP's friend's remaining time in the house will likely be low, even if it boosts the property value.

I've read a few different thoughts about how to fir out windows, prevent water and bug infiltration, etc. I would not take lightly adding a layer of exterior foam to a house.

 

[WVBrady]

I didn't notice anyone discussing the permeability of the foam. Normally, you would want the vapor barrier (retarder) on the warm (inner) side.

Is there any insulation in the walls right now?

 

[Milzo]

I forgot to mention about the rigid insulation. He wants to add the rigid insulation and then tape the seams because he feels it would tend to seal up the house better and it would add at least a little "R" value to the house. There is insulation in the walls now but he figures by adding the rigid insulation on the outside it will make the house more comfortable.

Take a look at Zip Systems R-panel Sheathing. Its a little pricey at about $45 a sheet BUT its rigid foam with 7/16" OSB adhered to it and has built in housewrap. If you can remove a 5ft wide section of the wood at a time then install the 4ft piece of zip panel you don't need to worry about the house racking out of plumb when you take the siding off. The foam will help with the thermal transfer.

 

[James-W]

Thanks for all the input. I will pass along all the things you guys have said and he can make up his mind. He has until March or April to decide so there is no rush on his part. Personally, I am hoping he decides to hire it done, I don't mind helping him out when we can stand on the ground, but I am a little concerned about the areas we can't reach from the ground.

 

[TurnipTruck]

Here in Alaska, I would need at least r14 outside of the sheathing to keep it above the dew point to prevent condensation and subsequent rot.

 

[nadogail]

A Halligan tool will speed your work.

Check Wikipedia for what they look like and start fabricating your own.

 

[Kevin54]

Depending on the size of the house, the siding can be removed in just a few hours. Cleaning up the nails will probably take longer. The house may or may not have cement over asbestos siding underneath. If it does, no big deal. Just leave it on and side again over the top of it.

Now if you are going to put rigid foam insulation underneath, you may have to build out the window and door jambs to compensate for the thickness of the foam. Again, no big deal. It will take more work putting the siding back on that it did taking the old off, but it is doable. And it's not anything that has to be done in a days time either. Once the old siding is off, the house is still protected from what is under the aluminum siding.

And don't forget, recycle the aluminum siding. It will bring you a few hundred at a scrap yard for all of it.

 

[Dave in Mass]

Depending on the size of the house, the siding can be removed in just a few hours. Cleaning up the nails will probably take longer.

Got grand kids?

When my boys were about 5 and 3, I ripped all the lime green aluminum siding off my single story ranch. Was a real simple job. Pry the siding off the roofing nail on one end and rip away.

Flying nails? Got the boys out there when there wasn't any active work going on and pay 'em a "penny a nail" to comb the yard.

The money wasn't important but paying them something to make them feel responsible for a job was. They did a great job too.

 

[KenC]

without knowing exactly what's under the aluminum, it's impossible to give good advice.

In my area, homes of that age would likely have let in braces at the corners and the wood siding attached directly to the studs with maybe a felt layer between. Other areas may have diagonal board sheathing over the studs with no let in braces and some sort of shingle siding, either asbestos based or cedar.

If it is found to be the first instance, with corner bracing, it's really straight forward.

As far as ladders, or height concerns, I'm 72 and really understand. I recently reroofed my home, complete tearoff of two layers and replacement. Also added a 16x16 patio roof framed into the house, extended my old garage by 12ft and converted the whole area into a master suite.

Get some scaffold sections with casters, good walk boards and railing. Makes it almost as easy as working off the ground. / sure beats working the edge of the roof from the edge looking down!