Rivet help. No clue

[HarrisonTX]

I'm slowly working on this snap on top box. The hinges are hammered. The metal could use some work. I'd like to clean them up, and straighten them up.

Problem is, I've only been around rivets one time so I basically know nothing.

Would it be possible to remove these, and reinstall with some similar rivets once the box is powder coated and the metal is straightened?

If so, I'm afraid they would be too tight. Obviously, these act as a hinge and allow the lid to close so they need to allow some movement.

Please point me in the right direction.

 

[RECox286]

Drill those rivets out from the inside out with a suitable drill.

bit. When you go to replace the fasteners; I would suggest

using stainless steel washers and bolts with nyloc (self

locking) nuts. That way you will be able to adjust the

tension with a screwdriver and wrench, and as a plus

have a non rusting fastener that you will be able to remove

easily. The tool box won't look stock, but are you going

to use it or put it in a museum ?

Uncle Bob

 

[DHCrocks]

you could always swap the folding arm out for a shock type, that's what I did.

 

[larry_g]

To get the correct 'tension' on a rivet like that you put a shim, U shaped, between the arm and lid. Once the rivet is set you remove the shim.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[FlatHeads_Suck]

To get the correct 'tension' on a rivet like that you put a shim, U shaped, between the arm and lid. Once the rivet is set you remove the shim.

lg
no neat sig line

Yup, it doesn't have to be much. Those look like pop rivets, so there's no way to adjust once set, if you used solid and your shin was too thick, you could always put a thinner one in and buck it some more.

 

[Tucko]

Why would you want to powdercoat a toolbox? I mean....it's a toolbox.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

Easy way to maintain free movement on riveted pivot like that is to cut a washer from thin paper like typing paper. Rivet things up tight, move the pivot, and paper disintegrates.

 

[FJ 432]

They also make rivet washers for pop rivets. That's what I use on an articulating arm.

 

[Eric Nordstrom]

I'M going through the same thing w/ my so box. I found the replacement rivets at the local hardware store. I also bought some plated pan head bolts (allen head),I'll use if I can't install the correct rivets. I also cleaned my hinges in vinegar . But you can buy replacements from snap on-cheap!. Good Luck

 

[Outlawmws]

That is not a pop rivet. and a pop rivet will bind things up.

You need a semi hollow rivet to duplicate the hinge point. Its solid for the thickness of the metal and hollow so it can be "peened over" easily (with the right tool/punch setup) Use spacer shims as has already been mentioned.

McMaster Carr or Grangers might have them, but getting the right size for your specific use is often difficult.

 

[dandan111]

I would do as uncle bob says. Those plastic insert nuts would be a easy to adjust solution.

 

[jacked_72]

My strap was broken. It took it off and welded it. I used pop rivets and the original (inside) washer when I put it back. I don't open and close it much though. The original was not a pop rivet and I just drilled it out from the inside.

 

[jetmech09]

Do not drill the shop head. Use a small (#40ish) drill on the machine end just enough to break the head off, then using a taper punch, break the head off and punch the shop head out. That's a semi hollow rivet, not a pop rivet. I would replace with bolt+locknut.

 

[HarrisonTX]

you could always swap the folding arm out for a shock type, that's what I did.

Pics of this? It would have to be a weak weak shock I would think, but what a good idea.

No one else thinks thats a good idea?

 

[Coach James]

Take the arms off and prop the lid up with a broom stick when you need it open.

Coach

 

[Daves69]

Look at this thread http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166027

 

[PT Doc]

Why would you want to powdercoat a toolbox? I mean....it's a toolbox.

Isn't that how most toolbox get treated at the factory?

 

[2oolhound]

I just did my Kennedy box but I had some solid tin rivets and used them for this part. You have to remember there is no room for the head of a bolt between the flange on the box and the lip of the lid when the lid closes. I had some thin headed rivets and used a standard rivet punch to round out the other end just enough to tighten things up then I used a ball peen hammer to finish flattening the edges over just enough to do the job. On one side of the box I had to use a die grinder to shave off some of the rivet head for clearance so the lid closed.

If you have a solid rivet with a 1/8" shank the rivet punch will have a hole slightly larger drilled into it's end about 1/2" deep. You place the rivet through the 2 pieces of steel you're joining and then insert the rivet shank into the hole on the end of the rivet punch. Then tap the punch down. This tightens the 2 pieces of steel together closely. Beside the 1/2" deep hole in the end of the punch is a 1/8" deep round cavity 1/4" across. You put that on top of the protruding rivet shank next and pound the shank down. This rounded cavity produces a round end on the soft rivet.

You can make a punch with a piece of steel bar by drilling the 1/2" deep hole in the end and then use a 1/4" or so drill to make the round cavity about 1/8" deep next to it. If you can't find rivets look for aluminum or copper nails at the hardware store and cut them the length you need.