Rivet Nut W/O-Ring for Fuel Door Replacement?

[YoshiMoshi3]

My fuel door came off my car which was riveted in. I was thinking of drilling out the old rivets and replacing them with rivet nuts, so a threaded bolt could be used.

Does it make sense to put an O-Ring under the lip of the river nut to help create a water tight seal? Although I guess it doesn't really matter if I'm going to use threaded bolts? Should I be concerned of water getting behind the head of the bolt or rivet but and seeping behind the quarter panel? Not really sure why the car didn't come with rivet nut and bolts to begin with.

 

[PCustoms]

Needs pics, can't picture what you're trying to do

Also wtf is an unthreaded bolt.

 

[nadogail]

I am sure you can use an adhesive to seal where you will be joining parts together.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Toyota fuel door. Sorry for not mentioning. This is a 2005 Camry.

 

[4xdog]

I’d say protecting with appropriate rustproof paint the bare metal exposed when you drill out the rivets is more important than an o-ring.

Why not rivet it on again? If fhe first one lasted 18 years a good job replacing it will likely last longer.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

I’d say protecting with appropriate rustproof paint the bare metal exposed when you drill out the rivets is more important than an o-ring.

Why not rivet it on again? If fhe first one lasted 18 years a good job replacing it will likely last longer.

Well the hinges are just bare metal against bare metal, no grease, no bushings, from Toyota.

A brand new one primed and not painted is $80, so I just got a junk yard one that is already painted the same color.

Rivet nuts so that way if I ever have to replace it again, just unbolt and go.

Thanks for heads up on painting the exposed surface from drilling out the old rivets. Any idea what kind of paint I should use, like what type and brand? This for the exposed raw sheet metal that will show itself after drilling out the old rivets? Like around the perimeter of the resulting hole, that is very thin?

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Bump, went to second page

 

[LopezBart]

The fuel door rivets are available from Toyota for a couple of bucks each... and the rivets didn't fail, the hinge did. Why not use a 1/4" drill and carefully drill the head until it just releases. Note that you can get at the back side as shown in this video:

 

[Wrench97]

I second the use of rivets.

 

[PoorUB]

Are you going to need to replace it again, like in another 18 years?

Rivet it on! Chances are you will never replace it again! And if it fails again, in 54 years, use rivets again.

 

[Pinemarten]

Riv-nuts are usually Aluminum. Fastening aluminum to steel creates a battery (super low voltage) which will cause dissimilar
metals corrosion.

I'd go with factory rivets.

 

[Firebrick43]

Riv-nuts are usually Aluminum. Fastening aluminum to steel creates a battery (super low voltage) which will cause dissimilar
metals corrosion.

I'd go with factory rivets.

Every rivnut I have ever used has been zinc or CAD plated steel. Aluminum threads are terrible. While there are rivnuts that are available in aluminum(and stainless as well) they are not nearly as common as steel ones.

Any search is populated with the majority of results being steel ones

 

[bwringer]

That's not a watertight compartment back there... pull the fender liner out a bit and you can reach the back side. If there's clearance with the fuel door closed, button head hex bolts with washers and nuts on the back would be simplest and easiest.

You'll need to drill the rivets to get the remnants of the hinge out. Hopefully you can find one in a matching color in a junkyard or on fleaBay or something.

 

[bbrins]

I don't imagine that a riv-nut is going to be any less water tight than a pop rivet. You could always put a dab of sealant under the head and on the threads if it bothers you enough. I'd probably use a riv-nut if it were mine, just simply because I have a pile of them on hand. Most likely, either way, your repair will outlast the car. They do make sealed riv-nuts.

 

[CJM8515]

pop rivet it, they have been doing it this way for many, many years so they must be on to something

 

[cannuck]

You could go with a riv-nut, but strongly suggest stainless screws if you do. IMHO far better to use the OEM rivets - then LUBE THE HINGES regularly.

 

[Pinemarten]

Every rivnut I have ever used has been zinc or CAD plated steel. Aluminum threads are terrible. While there are rivnuts that are available in aluminum(and stainless as well) they are not nearly as common as steel ones.

Any search is populated with the majority of results being steel ones

I've pulled lots of Aluminum riv-nuts. No worries.............just didn't want the OP to start a corrosion issue in an exposed location on the vehicle. (and yes, aluminum threads are FRAGILE )

Same goes for "pop" rivets. Lots of aluminum out there.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

So the quarter panel is likely steel, so I should use a steel fastening device? Also I don't have to worry about the raw metal exposed from drilling out the original rivets?

 

[PCustoms]

Couple self tappers ought to hold it

 

[Pinemarten]

So the quarter panel is likely steel, so I should use a steel fastening device? Also I don't have to worry about the raw metal exposed from drilling out the original rivets?

Steel with steel, (aluminum with aluminum......which doesn't apply here) etc.

I would drill out the rivets and touch up the holes with paint. Then install new rivets. Touch up rivets with factory color paint.

Some day, you will probably want to sell the car. The prospective buyer might not be impressed with a wobbly fuel door screwed on with self-tapping sheet metal screws.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Will aluminum rivets or rivnuts and the steel quarter panel cause galvanic corrosion or should I not be worried? I think lots of engine blocks are aluminum these days and steel bolts are used on them, I think?

 

[Pinemarten]

Yes. The engine block isn't outside, exposed to the elements like the fuel door is.
The door has spring loaded leverage against the rivets each time it opens, so screws could loosen in time.
You could even use a locking gas cap, and forget the door. Your car.........your choice.

I would duplicate what Toyota did.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Yes. The engine block isn't outside, exposed to the elements like the fuel door is.
The door has spring loaded leverage against the rivets each time it opens, so screws could loosen in time.
You could even use a locking gas cap, and forget the door. Your car.........your choice.

I would duplicate what Toyota did.

So use steel fasteners only?

 

[4xdog]

...Does it make sense to put an O-Ring under the lip of the river nut to help create a water tight seal?...

I think you should use rivets like Toyota.

If you're determined to bolt it on, just put a nut on the backside.

But if you insist on going the unnecessary route of using rivnuts, trying to put an o-ring between the rivnut and the sheet metal seems like a seriously bad idea. A properly-installed rivnut is going to be watertight, and putting a compliant rubber spacer in there would more than likely lead to the rivnut being loose.

 

[Pinemarten]

So use steel fasteners only?

I think you should use rivets like Toyota.

Yes, use these:

2000-2023 Toyota Fuel Door Rivet 90269-06017 | Toyota Of Grand Rapids OEM Parts

2000-2023 Toyota Fuel Door Rivet 90269-06017

parts.toyotaofgrandrapids.com

 

[readhead]

There was nothing wrong with the original attachment. The hinge broke. I’m not sure why you want to make the replacement so complicated. Just rivet the new one on.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

I have some zinc plated steel riv-nuts. If I'm understanding correctly, I don't have to worry about galvanic corrosion, between the zinc plated steel riv-nut and steel quarter panel, because zinc and steel actually offers galvanic protection?

If not then I might just go get the toyota ones, but I'm wondering if zinc plated steel riv nuts

 

[tamaraw]

I work Toyota parts. Imho, just drill the two rivets and re-install a pair of the originals. Cheap, easy, and uaranteed to work with no issues down the line. K.I.S.S. (keep it simple, stupid)

Having it bolt on does sound nice but it's pretty pointless given how often it will need to be replaced and the logistics of selecting and installing new hardware.

The fuel filler doors that I have sold as replacements were all either because of rust or collision damage, I've never seen one where the hinge somehow wore out.

I also would not worry about weather sealing on the rivet. Properly installed, a rivet should be tight enough to prevent water intrusion. Some of the factory rivets also use integrated plastic washers or sleeves. If you were really concerned, you could put a dab of FIPG or RTV under the head but it should not be necessary (note condition of original rivet joint). Just my 2c, hope that helps.

 

[4xdog]

Sounds like the community has spoken — almost unanimously. OEM rivets!

 

[danielbuck]

man I'd just use a nut and bolt, looks like there's plenty of access to get a nut on the back.

But, It's a fuel door, it weighs almost nothing. So probably any way you fasten it would be fine. It looks like it's the hinge that broke, not the rivets.