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Rivets. How to size them

rogersmithiii

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If you are looking at an aluminum rivet that is listed as 1/8 x 3/8, does that mean the final length after crimping between the flanges is 3/8? Or is the length 3/8 before crimping?

If it's the latter, what length would you look for to end up with a 3/8 final length?
 
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Dave455

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3/8 is the length of the rivet before setting.

It’s measured from the underside of the head, much like a round head screw.

The length you need depends on the thickness of material you are riveting. Generally speaking, you need 1.5 x the rivet diameter protruding.
 
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rogersmithiii

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I have to rivet a shower door roller to the frame of the door. Including the roller, the thickness is 3/8 of an inch. So, 1.5 times 3/8 is 9/16.

The internal hole through the wheel is 1/8 inch in diameter.

The Rivet tool is a Marson 39000 HP2 gun.
 
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jstroede

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If it is written in those terms, it is usually Diameter X Maximum Grip.

The grip usually has a range though as the mandrel will break before it goes to zero.
 

jstroede

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Rivets are commonly referred to by a two digit number, of which the first number is the diameter in 32nds of an inch, and the second is for the grip size, again in 32nds of an inch. In your case, I would probably opt for a 48, which is 1/8 diameter and covers a range of .375-.500".
 

Dave455

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I have to rivet a shower door roller to the frame of the door. Including the roller, the thickness is 3/8 of an inch. So, 1.5 times 3/8 is 9/16.

The internal hole through the wheel is 1/8 inch in diameter.

The Rivet tool is a Marson 39000 HP2 gun.
You need 1.5 times the rivet diameter protruding.

So, if you’re using a 1/8“ diameter rivet, you need 3/16” protruding, to form the tail.

Add 3/16” to the total material thickness, to get the length rivet you need.
 

jbtvt

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Apr 4, 2015
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does that mean the final length after crimping between the flanges is 3/8? Or is the length 3/8 before crimping?
The final length is only determined by when the rivet mandrel/stem meets enough resistance to snap off. Depending on the door setup it might benefit you to use a stainless rivet, much stronger than aluminum which I see broken all the time just from thermal expansion. You'd be fine with a 1/2" grip rivet, the nubs at the back of them are barely 1/16" and as long as they expand the gripping portion at all it will hold. If you're trying to rivet plastic or thin aluminum you may need to throw a #6 washer behind it so it doesn't pull through/into your roller

Edit, also if you need the roller to roll around the rivet you'll need to slide a thin putty knife or something in there as you tighten it down or it will lock the wheel, not a problem if the wheel is two parts and doesn't rotate on the rivet
 
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