Rivnut tool to end all.

[toplessHO]

I made the 5/16 one about 30 yrs ago,long before I had a hydraulic unit.
Now I just finished my 1/4 inch one out of necessity (cheap azz HF one broke).
This makes it so easy its like they were made of butter.
last pic is the pullout test,it deformed the metal into a cone and still didnt pull out.

The pump is from my hand held Greenlee KO set.

 

[Here2Learn]

How does all that work? I have a few dirt bikes with them on there. A couple are loose.

 

[toplessHO]

the pump retracts the stud. so when its held in a fixed position it will compress the nut just like a rivet.

 

[Sine Swept]

Here's a trick. Drill out the proper sized hole, then take a small triangular file and put a small notch in the hole. Once you complete your rivet nut, it will grab a bit to the notch.
CA glue also comes to mind.

 

[MrSurly]

I made the 5/16 one about 30 yrs ago,long before I had a hydraulic unit.
Now I just finished my 1/4 inch one out of necessity (cheap azz HF one broke).
This makes it so easy its like they were made of butter.
last pic is the pullout test,it deformed the metal into a cone and still didnt pull out.

The pump is from my hand held Greenlee KO set.

Which part of the items in the pics did you make? The collet that grips the rivnut or ?

I'm going to need more pics and an explanation of the inner workings...

 

[toplessHO]

the 2 studs that mandrel the rivnut
one has 5/16" threads,the other has 1/4"

Ive adapted the hydraulic pump to do the work of setting the nut by pulling it.

 

[Here2Learn]

the pump retracts the stud. so when its held in a fixed position it will compress the nut just like a rivet.

Thank you.

 

[LXCam]

Damn that's a great idea I never even considered. I've got both styles of the hand hydraulic puller, straight and 90. Good show top

 

[CBassB]

This is brilliant, thank you for sharing. 1/4 and 5/16 with leverage tools is hard, and the tools don't last long. I like it.

S

 

[racingtadpole]

Using the hydraulics is an interesting idea, but based on the amount of material deformation in the pictures I’d suggest the tooling needs a bit of refining to get it sweet.

Edit.. never mind, I put my glasses on and reread it. This getting old thing ***** wang.. carry on.

 

[toplessHO]

my next one is to make a 3/8,which will be a lot more expensive because the bigger stud is one piece..... used for the special cutter for 10 gauge stainless.

 

[plinker]

Nice! Looks like an ideal way to set them.

 

[MattT]

my next one is to make a 3/8,which will be a lot more expensive because the bigger stud is one piece..... used for the special cutter for 10 gauge stainless.

IIRC the Greenlee draw studs are 3/4"-16. If I'm right you can just buy a grade 8 bolt and modify it.

OK took another look at your pics. Looks like you've been modifying the 3/8" studs for the 1/2" KOs. IIRC they're 3/8"-24. If I'm right on that get a long grade 8 or SHCS and modify it.

One question, can you feel the rivnuts "set" with the hydraulic KO pump?

 

[speed bump]

That's a cool idea, going to put that one in my projects to do on a lathe when I get one.

 

[toplessHO]

my low buck tooling approach was to chuck the studs in a battery drill,
turn the ends down while spinning against the bench grinder(see the nice bevel at end of threads) then use a proper sized die to cut the new threads.
I dont have a lathe,this worked fine... maybe a couple thou off center but it works fine.

Yes you can tell when they are compressed enough,but feel is so light.
I love how easy they are to set like this.The straight greenlee pump that LX cam speaks of would be great for getting into tighter areas. I bought this KO set used with slug splitter KOs and the 1/2" cutter for 10 ga stainless for $150 at a car swap meet.
Guy was using in a hot rod shop as a chassis punch.Of course its seen a lot of action knocking out holes in electrical gear since then,this is like a vacation to it.

 

[toplessHO]

IIRC the Greenlee draw studs are 3/4"-16. If I'm right you can just buy a grade 8 bolt and modify it.

OK took another look at your pics. Looks like you've been modifying the 3/8" studs for the 1/2" KOs. IIRC they're 3/8"-24. If I'm right on that get a long grade 8 or SHCS and modify it.

One question, can you feel the rivnuts "set" with the hydraulic KO pump?

hardware is case hardened
grade 8 may work but Im pretty sure they use case hardened for a reason.

 

[toplessHO]

I did quite a few today and can use the pump with one hand,thats how easy it is.As a matter of fact thats the best way,because when the effort increases the nut is set.
This is very easy to tell using one hand

 

[Strouty]

I like it, the problem is that I didn't know they made a handheld version like that, now I have to spend money on something I don't really need.........

Thanks

 

[toplessHO]

Dont run out and buy one just to install Rivnuts.
Its a chassis punch or aka knockout cutter.
with dies a new one is about $860 direct from Greenlee.

 

[Strouty]

I know what it is, I have hand operated ones and then the ones that have a hollow jack style ram with a hose the uses a hand or foot pump, just didn't realize they had a hand pump version. I use mine for stretching exhaust pipes and of course knock outs, but this is a good excuse to buy a tool that may make all these things easier. Besides, GJ clearly allows for purchasing tools that are way overkill, hardly ever used, and sometimes you need to make up imaginary projects to use them for.

 

[toplessHO]

ok just look for quickdraw
you may be able to buy just the pump since you already have the cutters bolts spacers etc.

 

[Strouty]

The bolts are not the same, so I would buy a kit and sell off what I don't need. Pretty sure I have through 4", but I just found out they offer square knock outs. I can't win!

 

[4xdog]

Here's a trick. Drill out the proper sized hole, then take a small triangular file and put a small notch in the hole. Once you complete your rivet nut, it will grab a bit to the notch.
CA glue also comes to mind.

My history with plastics and composites would lead me to avoid filing a pointy notch where a crack could initiate. Depending on the material and the application that could create problems down the road.

I see the logic, and like the general concept. The basic idea might work with a small round file, too, to avoid the stress riser of a sharp point.

 

[ngk22r]

This is the tool I use to install a nutsert:

Only thing is I do not use the allen wrench pictured but rather a ratchet and appropriate size allen socket. The tools come in different sizes so that you can install different size nutserts

 

[garandman]

We have an Aluma [Aluminum] trailer and want to put some nutserts in the bed.

Should I use aluminum, steel, or stainless steel inserts? I’ll keep a flat head in thrm when not in use.

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

that is a cool invention there! i used to hate setting those by hand. then i found out you can buy the nose assembly to fit a pnuematic over hydraulic rivet gun. We use a huck 2025 gun and you can buy a nose assemby for any style riveting fastener you can think of. Found this out thru Byler Rivet suplly in Texas. Really great company to deal with now we order all our rivets and inserts from them.

 

[Strouty]

We have an Aluma [Aluminum] trailer and want to put some nutserts in the bed.

Should I use aluminum, steel, or stainless steel inserts? I’ll keep a flat head in thrm when not in use.

Don't use stainless, it will make the aluminum corrode much faster than it should. If you can, use aluminum nutserts and then galvanized bolts.

 

[Sine Swept]

My history with plastics and composites would lead me to avoid filing a pointy notch where a crack could initiate. Depending on the material and the application that could create problems down the road.

I see the logic, and like the general concept. The basic idea might work with a small round file, too, to avoid the stress riser of a sharp point.

I use rivnut's in metal, so non issue for me.

 

[egdede]

Metals would be more likely to fail at the notch also. Obviously less of a concern for the repair to my mower deck than to a repair on an airplane though!

 

[WagonHo!]

Put this rivnut bit kit together in an extra Mewahkay case. I’ve got a swamp cooler up top that took a beating this winter, some of the sheet metal screw holes got tore up from the wind. Came with the 400 asst rivnut, China tool cruncher, set of 5 metric mandrel for $80. Got it for the stainless rivnuts for the cooler repair.

Strouty,
THE motto of GJ
“Besides, GJ clearly allows for purchasing tools that are way overkill, hardly ever used, and sometimes you need to make up imaginary projects to use them for.”

 

[6PTsocket]

A nut and bolt will pull a nutsert. Screw the bolt into the nutsert. Hold the bolt with a wrench and tighten the nut with another. Use a grade 8/class 10 nut and bolt. The nut may have a slight tendancy to rotate the nutsert. The solution is to make an angle bracket with a clearance hole. The wrench that is holding the bolt head also stops the angle bracket from rotating so the nutsert is just pulled. The stationary bracket separates the rotating nut from the nutsert. You can't get much simpler than that if you only have to pull a couple.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[AusGlenno]

I use the minisert tools from here: https://www.australtools.com.au/trade-quality-rivnut-tools/