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Rivnut Tool

kwb

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Any recommendations?

I have a project that will have a couple hundred to install then it will be just periodic use. I tend to lean towards the bigger ones that can do 5/16 but for this project it will probably be all 1/4" and #10 sized screws.
 
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MP&C

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Separate tools for each, something designed for a #10 or 1/4 is not stout enough to set a 5/16. Look for tool pn's :

C845-1032
C845-2520
C722-3118

I have some of each of these tools over twenty years old, still work flawlessly after hundreds of sets
 
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goodysgotacuda

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I use the Westward tool and haven't had any real trouble with it. Use some Hougen [or similar] annular cutters for the holes if you are going into sheet metal. They'll provide a much better hole over a drill bit.
 
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kwb

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I use the Westward tool and haven't had any real trouble with it. Use some Hougen [or similar] annular cutters for the holes if you are going into sheet metal. They'll provide a much better hole over a drill bit.

In my day job I deal with these things by the thousands/day and know how important hole quality is to getting a good install.

Problem is the tools we use are $1500 and up (good ones are $12K), set up for metric inserts, and behind nicely guarded fences with policy to not let employees use company tools for personal use.

The Westward tool is one that I am looking at and kit comes with setups to do from #10 - 3/8".
 

Joe69

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Mine is a Matco, but I think it's made by Marson. It will do up to 5/16. I've had it for 15 years with no problems.

Joe
 

chattacuda

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Mine is a marson also. Bought it to install stuff on a boxed frame for a street rod but use it quite often for other projects. Will do up to 3/8 steel, but is adjustable down to #10. Great tool to have in the shop for those special applications. Mine is a Marson model 325 RN.
 

that-guy

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Harbor Freight has a cheap one that will do #6, #8, #10, and 1/4"...not the greatest thing in the world, but it works and is really cheap
 

Rookie2

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I've used these cheep tools and rivnuts for door panel attachment. They are junk ! The larger the screw the easier the nut will spin making it impossible to remove the panel down the road. I have 6-32 and 8-32 tools made by B.F. Goodrich for aircraft and they also made a notcher to reduce the spin out. There is also a threaded insert nut that you press in and flare the end to retain it.
 
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petawawarace

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sort of off topic, but I've seen some VERY simple homemade tools for installing rivnuts. Basically a bolt of proper thread and a nut with a washer under it. Do these work pretty decent? Obviously using a good quality bolt, and it will be rather slow compared to a purpose built tool, but I can't see how it wouldn't work just as well in theory.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
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kwb

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sort of off topic, but I've seen some VERY simple homemade tools for installing rivnuts. Basically a bolt of proper thread and a nut with a washer under it. Do these work pretty decent? Obviously using a good quality bolt, and it will be rather slow compared to a purpose built tool, but I can't see how it wouldn't work just as well in theory.
Thanks,
Jeff

Install by twist is much more prone to spinning out in the hole. Spin-spin are the cheapest power tool install versions and work okay but have nose features that help as much as you can given you are still twisting the body to get it to collapse and form bulb on back side of part. Spin-pull tools are much better.

Given I will be doing a couple hundred into parts that will be freshly powdercoated and ready to deliver to customer I don't want to have to drill many (any) out and redo.
 

petawawarace

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The homemade tools I saw simply pull the rivnut up straight. No spinning Just using 2 wrenches. I understand if you are doing lots of them the proper tool would be great, I was just curious for myself is all
 

joe49

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The homemade tools I saw simply pull the rivnut up straight. No spinning Just using 2 wrenches. I understand if you are doing lots of them the proper tool would be great, I was just curious for myself is all
Only needed to do a few so that is how I did it.
 

Rookie2

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For that many rivnuts I would make an offer on this pneumatic one on ebay # 251392815862 also buy the best quality rivnut you can find . you can always resell it and have a smile on your face.

Also: # 161190489958

Google or Bing : Chobert Rivets
 
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SM Racing

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This is the one I have been using for a few years. Works great doesn't cost a pile of money.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have pulled hundreds of them with it. The only complaint I have is its fairly bulky since its a straight pull type. If you have to get in cramped quarters this isn't the tool for that, but for everything else it works great.

As for drilling the holes in sheetmetal. Use a uni-bit type bit. It cuts a nice clean hole in sheetmetal. No need for an annular cutter in normal sheetmetal with holes under half inch.
 

that-guy

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I've used these cheep tools and rivnuts for door panel attachment. They are junk ! The larger the screw the easier the nut will spin making it impossible to remove the panel down the road. I have 6-32 and 8-32 tools made by B.F. Goodrich for aircraft and they also made a notcher to reduce the spin out. There is also a threaded insert nut that you press in and flare the end to retain it.

i didn't use any of the cheap nuts that were supplied in the package with the tool. i went through Fastenal and got various knurled rivnuts. after they are compressed, the knurles bite into the sides of the hole, and on the backside of the piece it is compressed onto. i've installed them with this cheap tool and have put various bolts in and out of them that bare a good bit out weight without issue
 

buening

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Also keep in mind there are different type of rivnuts. For example the Marson tool that I use utilizes flush rivnuts (Klik thread inserts) and are quite compact, whereas I've seen others that have a flange on the face of the rivnut and are bulkier. I made the mistake of running out of the Marson Klik rivnuts that came with the tool and used the flange faced ones with a thicker wall, resulting in a snapped Marson mandrel. Below is a Klik rivnut compared to a flange-type rivnut (don't know the proper name, sorry).

THREADSERT%20(180).jpg

tsa.jpg


Rivet50085m166116.jpg
 
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racingtadpole

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I have both an Avdel and a Textron, neither were cheap.
I have used a battery 1/4 impact, a nut, a bolt and spanner to pull them up when I've not had the tool available. If you're careful the results will be OK.

You may also want to have a look at root nuts if you a few hundred to do, they can be installed with nothing more than a press (a vice will work for the smaller sizes) and a ball bearing.
 

ystl

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Nov 1, 2012
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You could also check out tools from AVAK tools since they provide tools that are multifunctional and could pull the wide range of rivet nuts that you would be using. They also provide coarse and fine thread mandrels along with metric version in case you need them.

They have swivel head design products SH360 and MaxDuty Swivel and flexible handle MaxDuty Flex that is really good for awkward places.

the website is: www.avaktools.com
 

mebuildit

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I have a Huck air rivet gun. I've seen that they can be retrofitted to pull rivnuts. That would be my best plan if I had a ton of them to do.
 

ttpete

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I have a Huck air rivet gun. I've seen that they can be retrofitted to pull rivnuts. That would be my best plan if I had a ton of them to do.

I also have one. The conversion is just a matter of changing the nose over.

I also have hand pullers for 5/16 and 3/8. They involve 2 wrenches and have a ball thrust bearing to eliminate friction.
 

fhemm20

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Look up the AVK AA112. It's a "T" handle style that I use and it works great. It has a 1/4" receiver in the handle to either put a ratchet on it or a driver with a 1/4" square drive adapter. This is very nice if you are using a drill that has a clutch. Just set it with the first one and then just run it in until it stops.
 

MFolks

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Maybe a "Nutsert" by Avdel. One of my former jobs used nutserts that were installed by a pneumatic tool with a reversible trigger; squeeze to the first detent to install & all the way back to reverse it for removal.
 

BFBOB

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Someone mentioned notching the hole to prevent the rivnut from spinning somewhere down the line. Anyone tried a quick jab with a triangular or square file to broach the hole just a bit? Would the rivnut expand into the notches enough to matter, or would it require using rivnuts with wings to fit into the notches?

I've had to drill/grind/punch out a few spinners. No fun.
 

ystl

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If you used curled nuts they should reduce the chances of spinning. The best would be to actually use hexagonal nutserts but making a hex hole is a bit troublesome without any special tools. You could drill a smaller size hole and file the hole to make it into a hexagonal shape.
 

spotco2

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Dont think I've ever seen hex shaped nutserts before.

Knurled vs slick sides depends on application.

BF Goodrich used to have some installers made by LEM that were awesome production line tools. Pull plunger out on the back and the spins the nutsert onto the mandrel, squeeze the handle to compress it and then push the plunger back in to automatically unscrew the mandrel from the nutsert.

Go a search for BF Goodrich C6000 or LEM L6000
 

buening

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I have a couple different ones. The Astro bought from Amazon is the cheapest of the two I own and in my opinion is much easier to install.

I also own a Thread Setter. it works very well for smaller rivnuts. Here is a short blog post I made a while back about it

http://www.motobilt.com/blog/tools/putting-threads-in-thin-sheet-metal-with-rivnuts/

IMG_0135.jpg

I own the exact same Marson one. If you notice, your rivnuts to the right are the thinner walled Klik nuts, whereas the ones at the far left have a thicker wall and a flange. Be careful using this type, as it snapped my mandrels on the first pull. I had done probably 50 of the same size and ran out, so I bought some like yours to the left at a local hardware store and it snapped the first pull.
 
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