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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Roboto's Garage

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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Gberg888

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Jan 6, 2015
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Hey can you come and build some cabinets in mine when you're done with yours?
 

Chadddada

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MD
Garage is really looking good. I am trying to plan out my benches/cabinets and I am really liking what you did for your. I also really like the 2 tone walls with the stripe that you did. I think for mine I am going to do a sheet of plywood along the bottom and then 2 sheets of Sheetrock for the top 2/3rds of the wall. I may do the stripe like you did across that separation.

Are you going to do the floors as well? If so, what are you thinking you are going to put down?
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Thanks! The drywall looks great, but there is still a large portion of me that wishes I did do plywood. Not only does it go up fast and easy, but it's much more durable when it comes to hanging stuff up on the wall. No need to constantly find a stud. Doing the plywood on the lower 1/3rd is a great compromise.

The floor is on hold for now. I'd like to do something about it, but my budget is pretty much spent for the time being. I may revisit the idea in the spring. I'm torn between race deck or rust bullet. Both look great, but the durability of bare concrete really can't be beat. I do use my garage often for projects, so I don't want to have to feel as though I need to baby a fancy expensive floor.

I also considered just putting the race deck down in the area around my workbench as a trial. There will never be a vehicle parked there, and it will be a good way to Gauge weather or not id like it in the rest of the garage.
 

FunkyfullWidth

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This thread is full of win. You've done awesome work in here. I'm loving the bench.

On a side note I remember a thread about painting or covering electrical panels. I can't remember what it was called though. The general consensus was it doesn't matter but should be labeled. But chances are most homes have a main shut off outside the building.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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This thread is full of win. You've done awesome work in here. I'm loving the bench.

On a side note I remember a thread about painting or covering electrical panels. I can't remember what it was called though. The general consensus was it doesn't matter but should be labeled. But chances are most homes have a main shut off outside the building.

Thanks man! Much appreciated.

It's actually a sub panel fed by the main panel inside the house. The inspector who came to do the inspection for my heater install saw it and didn't say anything, so hopefully it's all good. I know it's done pretty regularly in a finished basement. Most people just don't take their garages to the level of finish that we do on this site hahaha.

Wow it's really coming together, looks great!

Thanks! I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel haha.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Sorry for the lack of updates, January was a trying month...I'll leave it at that!

I was able to get the drawers on the bench wrapped up. They came out O-K, not great, but just O-K. I built them all out of 3/4" plywood, including the drawer fronts. When I routed the perimeters of the draw fronts, it left behind a burning discoloration. Not sure if it's my crappy router bit, or that's inherent with routing plywood....either way, it should not be noticeable once painted.

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bj383ss

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Drawers came out great! As far as the edge burning. Could be a couple of different things. Router bit is dull or you ran it through too fast or too slow. If you are looking for good quality bits that aren't super expensive Grizzly.com has a good selection. What brand bits are you using?

Bret
 

bcoke

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Pawlet Vermont
Mr Roboto the garage came out great. love the colors, that cieling insulation will pay dividins for a long time in propane usage.....By the way do you know your state is upside down? [a private joke between VT & NH] I thought that the wall between the upper cabinets and the service panel would be perfect for a fire extingser ,low and behold it appeared on page 8, I am a believer that if you buy them you will not have to use them so cheap insurance.......Now the bad , what has bothered me is the space behind the backsplash....now that you have put the "pegboard" up any thing dropped into the void will be lost forever, it appears about 4-5 inches tick due to the sill........I have in the past built my toe kick up high enough so the cabinet/workbench would fit flat against the wall or put a trough there for spray cans etc.......the other thought would be a shelf from thr backsplash to the wall with sone holes for screwdriver/chisle storage, peanut butter jars of screws etc ,,,,I just feel that is a problem waiting to ****** up stuff! Love the garage and a much too good mudding and taping job for a Garage...lol great work....bobbycoke
 

bcoke

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Pawlet Vermont
Just thought of something else ....on the floor how is that race deck for woodworking ??? does the dust get in the "cracks" ???? a painted floor or expoxy [sweepable] is better IMHO......BC
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Gotta say you have done an awesome job on those cabinets.


Thanks guys!

Drawers came out great! As far as the edge burning. Could be a couple of different things. Router bit is dull or you ran it through too fast or too slow. If you are looking for good quality bits that aren't super expensive Grizzly.com has a good selection. What brand bits are you using?

Bret

It's a brand new router bit, but a cheapo Ryobi from HD. I have no idea how fast I should be setting my router, I need to read up on that!

Those look great! I think that's just the adhesive reacting to the heat from the router.

That was my initial thought as well, the glue from the plywood layers. I'm going to give it a sanding tonight and see if it comes off.

Mr Roboto the garage came out great. love the colors, that cieling insulation will pay dividins for a long time in propane usage.....By the way do you know your state is upside down? [a private joke between VT & NH] I thought that the wall between the upper cabinets and the service panel would be perfect for a fire extingser ,low and behold it appeared on page 8, I am a believer that if you buy them you will not have to use them so cheap insurance.......Now the bad , what has bothered me is the space behind the backsplash....now that you have put the "pegboard" up any thing dropped into the void will be lost forever, it appears about 4-5 inches tick due to the sill........I have in the past built my toe kick up high enough so the cabinet/workbench would fit flat against the wall or put a trough there for spray cans etc.......the other thought would be a shelf from thr backsplash to the wall with sone holes for screwdriver/chisle storage, peanut butter jars of screws etc ,,,,I just feel that is a problem waiting to ****** up stuff! Love the garage and a much too good mudding and taping job for a Garage...lol great work....bobbycoke

Thank you! And your state is the one that's upside-down! Yes, that gap has already claimed a few things :lol: I have one of those long reach claw things from harbor freight for retrieving things from back there at the moment. The plan is exactly what you described, I am going to build a shelf that extends from the top of the countertop backsplash horizontally back against the pegboard. Should to the trick, and will make for another ledge for me to set stuff down on.

Just thought of something else ....on the floor how is that race deck for woodworking ??? does the dust get in the "cracks" ???? a painted floor or expoxy [sweepable] is better IMHO......BC

I had the same thoughts, which is why I brushed aside the idea of the free flow flooring. I don't want to loose the ability to sweep my shop floor. If I do get RD, it will be the diamond pattern, but I am still not sold. If I do anything at all, I am leaning towards rust bullet at the moment, but I am not disliking the floor the way it is now as much as I thought I would.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Kind of a silly update, but I was given one of those RGB color changing led light strips for free, so I figured I may as well use it out in the garage. I ended up installing it above the cabinets. Won't get much day to day use, but it might be cool to throw on it we're having a party out there sometime.


It does have a "White" mode too, which is cool for accent lighting to light up the signs I have up there.
 

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69bigblok

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Nashville, TN
I love that! I put some under my cabinets (just white) but I'd like to put some on top like that. Really gives it a cool vibe for a hangout.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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I love that! I put some under my cabinets (just white) but I'd like to put some on top like that. Really gives it a cool vibe for a hangout.

Thanks! I actually have a strip of dual row cool white LEDs sitting on my bench ready to go for under the cabinets. I just need to find a power supply for them. I was hoping to salvage something instead of having to buy something. They should all compliment each other nicely. How did you attach the lights? The adhesive backing on the strip itself certainly leaves something to be desired, I don't think they will stay stuck up under there without some mechanical fasteners. I'm just not too sure what to use. My first thought was romex wire staples (not hammered in quite all the way of course, to prevent damage) but they are not wide enough to fit around the strip.
 
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bj383ss

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It's a brand new router bit, but a cheapo Ryobi from HD. I have no idea how fast I should be setting my router, I need to read up on that!

Your router can be set between 10,000rpm and 12,000 is where I keep mine. What I was referring too is the speed at which you feed the wood through. If you go too fast or too slow it will burn even with a sharp bit. There's a butter zone right in the middle.

I like the lights!

Bret
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Those drawer fronts shouldn't present any problems once you've lightly sanded them.

Thanks for the updates.

Thanks, that's what I'm hoping for. I'm planning on sanding, priming, and painting this weekend. Fingers crossed!

It's a brand new router bit, but a cheapo Ryobi from HD. I have no idea how fast I should be setting my router, I need to read up on that!

Your router can be set between 10,000rpm and 12,000 is where I keep mine. What I was referring too is the speed at which you feed the wood through. If you go too fast or too slow it will burn even with a sharp bit. There's a butter zone right in the middle.

I like the lights!

Bret

Ah, got it. Thanks for the info. I definitely routed them slowly. I'm relatively new to woodworking, so I'm not all that comfortable with the router yet. It's a little intimidating, that things got some power.
 

69bigblok

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Nashville, TN
Thanks! I actually have a strip of dual row cool white LEDs sitting on my bench ready to go for under the cabinets. I just need to find a power supply for them. I was hoping to salvage something instead of having to buy something. They should all compliment each other nicely. How did you attach the lights? The adhesive backing on the strip itself certainly leaves something to be desired, I don't think they will stay stuck up under there without some mechanical fasteners. I'm just not too sure what to use. My first thought was romex wire staples (not hammered in quite all the way of course, to prevent damage) but they are not wide enough to fit around the strip.

Yes for sure - the original sticky tape was useless. What I did was go to the auto parts store and bought the narrow width 3M emblem tape. I adhered it to the underside of the cabinet first, then stuck the led light strip to it. It worked great and hasn't come off again. Nice that it's not permanent and is nicely attached all the way down the strip.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Yes for sure - the original sticky tape was useless. What I did was go to the auto parts store and bought the narrow width 3M emblem tape. I adhered it to the underside of the cabinet first, then stuck the led light strip to it. It worked great and hasn't come off again. Nice that it's not permanent and is nicely attached all the way down the strip.

Good idea. I also may screw a strip of aluminum to the underside of the cabinets, and then tape the lights to that. I'm sure they'll stick much better to that surface than they would if fastened directly to the wood.
 

bj383ss

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Thanks, that's what I'm hoping for. I'm planning on sanding, priming, and painting this weekend. Fingers crossed!



Ah, got it. Thanks for the info. I definitely routed them slowly. I'm relatively new to woodworking, so I'm not all that comfortable with the router yet. It's a little intimidating, that things got some power.

This is a good thing. I am still scared of my router after all these years. Can never be too cautious with them. Always ask myself is this the safest way to do this? My grandpa was Mr. safety. He was routing a profile on a bunch of aged pine boards for door trim. He made the mistake of wearing gloves and lost the tip of his picking finger. Needless to say that has stuck in my head. He had to learn how to play guitar all over again.

Rockler.com has a lot of cool stuff for the router. I recommend some shopmade feather boards and their bit guard. Its a blurry pic but you can see my bit guard and feather boards I have on both sides of the bit.

DSCN2723 by bjohnson388, on Flickr

Bret
 

69bigblok

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Good idea. I also may screw a strip of aluminum to the underside of the cabinets, and then tape the lights to that. I'm sure they'll stick much better to that surface than they would if fastened directly to the wood.

I used the 3M on my inside kitchen cabinets too and it worked well on a smooth finished underside cabinet. If your cabinet is rough it might not work but you might try a little test strip before messing with the aluminum. Looking forward to seeing the undercab lights done. I love using these LED strips - amazing how inexpensive and great looking compared to wiring in all those 120v puck lights like in the past!
 
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Mr. Roboto

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I used the 3M on my inside kitchen cabinets too and it worked well on a smooth finished underside cabinet. If your cabinet is rough it might not work but you might try a little test strip before messing with the aluminum. Looking forward to seeing the undercab lights done. I love using these LED strips - amazing how inexpensive and great looking compared to wiring in all those 120v puck lights like in the past!

It's smooth sanded plywood, so it should not be an issue then! Thanks for the feedback. And I agree; these led strips are super cost effective, and a piece of cake to install. I almost pulled the trigger on the puck lights in my kitchen a few years ago, but I'm glad I didn't. I'll be throwing a set of these in there someday too. But the garage gets priority, of course :)
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Got the drawers sanded, painted, and the hardware installed. As everyone suggested, the burnt edges sanded right away. I kind of cheaped out on the handles, but I wanted something beefy to grab on to since I'll be going in and out of them frequently. For my first attempt at building a set of drawers, I am happy with the result.

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NedNorton

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I just had a few min. to read through. Nice job on the drawers, the black handles were a good call. Plus, the lights are cool! You have turned it into a great workspace, for sure.

What's next on the project list?

Cheers,
Chris
 
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Mr. Roboto

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I just had a few min. to read through. Nice job on the drawers, the black handles were a good call. Plus, the lights are cool! You have turned it into a great workspace, for sure.

What's next on the project list?

Cheers,
Chris

Hey Chris, thanks for checking in! With the completion of those drawers, the workbench construction is finally officially complete, which is a relief. The only thing left to add is a few more shelves in the open cabinet above the stereo, but I'll wait until I have some plywood scraps from a future project to build those.

The next plans are up in the air at the moment. I'm going on Friday to the Greg Smith Equipment dealer to take a look at the lift I picked out. Depending on what kind of answers I get there, that may very well be the next step for me once I get my tax return in. Other than that, my to-do list is as follows:

- Under Cabinet lighting for above the work bench
- Trim out around the garage doors
- lots of organization (90% of the cabinets and drawers are still empty, I still have a good deal of stuff in my basement that I cleared out to make room while doing all the drywall)
- Build a rack for clamp storage
- Make up my mind about the flooring (this really comes down to budget mostly)
- Run a cable line out to the garage (for the possibility of adding a TV)
- finish hanging some wall art

Thanks all I can think of at the moment. The organization really should be a priority. I need to get my basement cleared out an organized, because I'd like to finish half of it off as living space in the not to distant future. But I also need to build a new deck off the house and repair a rotted rim joist under my front door.... deep breaths..... :lol:
 

shadyluke

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Re: Mr. Roboto's Garage Makeover

What lift did you pick out? That was probably the best thing I ever bought. I got the 12k Atlas from Greg Smith

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shadyluke

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Unfortunately, I don't have the ceiling height to get a full height 2 post overhead lift, so the best I can get is a 2 post baseplate lift.

I believe I've settled on the Atlas BP9000

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-BP9000
My buddy got the BP10 when I got mine for the same reason. He's been more than happy too. I got the 12k so my trailer fits between the posts, this has been very useful. Plus we have a truck over 10k lbs. uploadfromtaptalk1455627644403.jpg

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Mr. Roboto

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My buddy got the BP10 when I got mine for the same reason. He's been more than happy too. I got the 12k so my trailer fits between the posts, this has been very useful. Plus we have a truck over 10k lbs. uploadfromtaptalk1455627644403.jpg

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Nice! Looks awesome! I don't anticipate myself ever having to lift anything heavier than a half-ton pickup, so I hope the 9K will do the job. That's one of the questions I have for them when I head in on Friday. My truck now is only around 5600lbs, but these newer pickups seems to be getting heavier. Even at an over-estimated 7K lbs, I am just curious to hear if the lift starts to struggle at all as you approach its rated weight. I assume the rating has a factor of safety built in to it, though.
 

shadyluke

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Nice! Looks awesome! I don't anticipate myself ever having to lift anything heavier than a half-ton pickup, so I hope the 9K will do the job. That's one of the questions I have for them when I head in on Friday. My truck now is only around 5600lbs, but these newer pickups seems to be getting heavier. Even at an over-estimated 7K lbs, I am just curious to hear if the lift starts to struggle at all as you approach its rated weight. I assume the rating has a factor of safety built in to it, though.

Might as well look at the BP10 while you are there. Its not much more than the 9k. My buddy liked the lift arms on the 10k over the 9k. He has a 8k pound F250. Figure out all of your dimensions before you go and take a tape measure with you.
 

Scramblerman

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WOW!
Just read the whole thread, and I am impressed.
As far as the floor, do you use salt on the roads in NH? I would think the melt would get under the Race Deck and ruin the concrete. I'm in the planning stage right now and have ruled out Race Deck for that reason.
Early on when you were talking mud and tape I honestly thought "some people are really over the top" now that I've seen the finished product I'm thinking I'll go all the way with my build.
Where are you going to put the lift? I'm looking at a 24'x36' build myself, and have been thinking of using the right side as a tandem with the lift in the back stall, and possible walling off the other bay as an "office"
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Might as well look at the BP10 while you are there. Its not much more than the 9k. My buddy liked the lift arms on the 10k over the 9k. He has a 8k pound F250. Figure out all of your dimensions before you go and take a tape measure with you.

I'll def take a look at both, thanks for the advice.

WOW!
Just read the whole thread, and I am impressed.
As far as the floor, do you use salt on the roads in NH? I would think the melt would get under the Race Deck and ruin the concrete. I'm in the planning stage right now and have ruled out Race Deck for that reason.
Early on when you were talking mud and tape I honestly thought "some people are really over the top" now that I've seen the finished product I'm thinking I'll go all the way with my build.
Where are you going to put the lift? I'm looking at a 24'x36' build myself, and have been thinking of using the right side as a tandem with the lift in the back stall, and possible walling off the other bay as an "office"

Thanks for taking the time to read through it all, and thanks for the kind words! It's been a long but fun and rewarding process.

Yes, they do put salt down in the winters here, and LOTS of it. It's one of many factors making me leery about my flooring choice. Deep down, I still feel as though I will be leaving the floor exactly like it is right now.

I am thinking about putting the lift in the back of the right hand bay. That corner is pretty open right now with plenty of room to move about. I also will never put anything against the rear wall of the garage in that corner, because I need to be able to pull a vehicle right up to the wall to be able to get the second in behind it. It's very rare that we have all 3 cars in the garage, and we'll likely be down sizing to 2 vehicles in the future....but I want to keep the option open. The heater does hang down in the corner back there, so that's the only thing to contend with.

Speaking of the heater, we just went through a real cold snap of weather in the northeast. I was working in the garage on Saturday night while it was -5 outside and the heater did not kick on nearly as often as I thought it would. It got down to -13F overnight, which is the coldest I've seen it near where I live. It was around -30 with the wind chill...crazy stuff!
 
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