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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Roboto's Garage

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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Mr. Roboto

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OK, I have to ask, what causes those Jeeps to rust like that? Leaks or liquid from footwear from being in the frozen north? That is nasty.

:beer:

There are a few different potential sources of this. Past heater core leak, windshield gasket leak, blower motor seal leak, or the fresh air intake in the cowl has a gasket that fails and also let’s water in. I’ll have to do some investigating to see if it’s from a current or past issue.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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I never realized there were so many points of ingress on those Jeeps.

Thanks

:beer:
Unfortunately, yes 😭 they are not the most sealed vehicles out there, especially after 25 years haha.

So I took the last 2 days off of work. I can’t sit still, so off to the garage I went. Had to disassemble an annoying amount to remove the passenger fender to swap it out.

A4DAB26D-32C5-4F8E-AC96-C075FEE1EF55.jpeg

I had to order new fender flare brackets, so I installed those and swapped my fender flare over to the replacement fender


1C5868C2-E9ED-42CE-9324-C9D7E42651BF.jpeg

And on it went! thankfully all of the panel gaps on these things are quite generous, so the install was easy. I’ll have to either extend the pin stripe onto the fender, or just remove it all together. I will probably keep it.

64C67AA7-8565-45A1-94B7-415B0A27DA22.jpeg

Next, I started a task I have been absolutely dreading. Exhaust manifold, and valve cover gasket. Both are leaking (one oil and the other exhaust gas, of course). So, off came the air intake, intake manifold, valve cover, fuel rail etc etc. Boom! The rockers, pushrods, valve springs etc all looked great! No sludge at all for an engine with 175k miles on it.

B7198785-3132-4305-B85E-0837789B73EF.jpeg

As you can see, the side of the head on the other hand is quite gunky. The valve cover was leaking so much, that it basically saturated the exhaust manifold gasket in oil. Many pieces of it were still stuck to the side of the block after I peeled it off. SO, lots of scraping and cleaning ensued:

EE771E38-287F-4B1A-9960-68BA272B63D2.jpeg

Here is the culprit of the manifold leak. They all crack in the same spot.

1C98D7D2-D68D-4F1E-A6F9-B3CBE30E4E7C.jpeg
It’s a function of thermal expansion, and excess vibration caused by worn out motor mounts. My mounts didn’t seem bad, but I ordered a new set to have on hand anyways, since the drivers side one is so easy to replace while this is all apart. Sure enough, they were bad. I actually had to jack up the engine over an inch higher to line up with the new mounts.

4899CE89-17F6-435E-B834-445A85D3C24B.jpeg

And here is the new vs the old exhaust manifold. The new one has expansion joints to absorb the thermal expansion.

819379BD-EE0A-42B3-948C-E2B90CB0DE07.jpeg

New Fel-Pro gasket in place:

274E6D78-DD4B-41A3-9AB3-C875B058562E.jpeg

And the valve cover cleaned and re-installed!

F9DDAD67-3FFD-414F-A04D-257FF4FC95F2.jpeg

And that’s where I left off. Hopefully I can get some time this weekend to finish it up. Thanks for following along too, helps to keep me motivated!
 
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rharman

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Admittedly, I haven't done any engine work since my teens (almost 50 years ago!).
I've never seen clips like those on the rocker arms. What do they do?
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Admittedly, I haven't done any engine work since my teens (almost 50 years ago!).
I've never seen clips like those on the rocker arms. What do they do?
They’re called rocker arm pivot bridges…. But beyond that I’m not totally sure! They’re what physically holds the rockers down, but I’m not sure why they span from one rocker to the bext
Looks like the welds on the old manifold were done on a Monday morning. :headscrat

:beer:
Haha right?!

Well, I was excited to get back to working on the Jeep after work, but it didn’t go as planned. I dry fit the manifold gasket, and it didn’t seem to fit quite right. The part number checked out as being correct though.
B08D252E-166F-4AAD-8B6F-124C55FC10A0.jpeg

I started googling, which led me down a rabbit hole of the various heads used throughout the years. Turns out there were 2 used in 1999. Most parts catalogs will reference the more common one, but mine is the less used 0630 casting. Darn!

40A1F690-16D1-4CBF-A3A0-D6DFFB6E7990.jpeg


This was standard issue on a 1998 XJ. I found a parts store that had one in stock, so I grabbed it and test fit it. Much better!

41369C22-22F6-48B3-BDBA-D2E203EAFFFA.jpeg

And that’s it for tonight!
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Got back to work today to finish this thing up.

Exhaust Manifold on:

IMG_4391.JPEG

Intake manifold on:

IMG_4395.JPEG

And everything back together:

IMG_4397.JPEG

I also changed the passenger side engine mount, and replaced the eclectic cooling fan as well.

Fired right up without issue! And most importantly, NO MORE EXHAUST LEAK! If you've ever had a vehicle with a cracked exhaust manifold, you'll know how annoying this is to hear, so it's was so nice to take it for a spin after and not have to listen to that. Very happy that this repair is over with, because it's not one I was looking forward to.
 

zmotorsports

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Nice job on the repair.

Seeing as how you are quite a ways north you may not experience this but if you ever get any PO303 (mis-fire cyl. 3) codes, there is a TSB out pertaining to heat soak and the #3 injector needing to be wrapped with heat tape. I've done a few of them and it definitely helps when things start getting warm.

Love following along on your Jeep work. :thumbup:
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Nice job on the repair.

Seeing as how you are quite a ways north you may not experience this but if you ever get any PO303 (mis-fire cyl. 3) codes, there is a TSB out pertaining to heat soak and the #3 injector needing to be wrapped with heat tape. I've done a few of them and it definitely helps when things start getting warm.

Love following along on your Jeep work. :thumbup:

Thank you!

So I haven't had any issues with heat soak yet... but I am aware of the issue. I actually have some parts coming for a tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and most importantly upgraded 4 hole fuel injectors).

Since I have to pull the injectors and fuel rail anyways, I was considering buying this kit to address the heat soak potential. What do you think??

 
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All buttoned up and ready for another 175K+ miles. Well done.
I sure hope so!
That looks like the same kit I've been using. I originally used the Mopar kit referenced in the TSB but after seeing what it consisted of I have been using DEI's for the past 8 or so years now but I've been purchasing them from Summit Racing.

Awesome, thanks for your feedback! You sold me, I just ordered the kit. Good peace of mind.
 

K5/TBSS

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Indiana
Man I just went through all 30 pages. What a fantastic garage build & I love the work you've done to the XJ. I'm very familiar with the YJs & TJs and it's interesting how many parts are shared with the XJ (including the rust problems).

Your garage & small addition are very similar to what we will break ground on in the next couple of months.

Maybe it was mentioned somewhere & I just missed it, but what is the actual dimensions of your garage? Squeezing 2 cars in length wise from time to time is exactly what I'd love to do. EDIT : Nevermind - just found that it was 28 x 34. Great to know!
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Nice work on the Jeep, I'm sure it feels good to get those bigger repairs out of the way.

Thank you! The upgrades are fun to do (lift, stereo etc) but the maintenance/repairs are not as exciting. So, I’m definitely glad to have this one behind me!
Man I just went through all 30 pages. What a fantastic garage build & I love the work you've done to the XJ. I'm very familiar with the YJs & TJs and it's interesting how many parts are shared with the XJ (including the rust problems).

Your garage & small addition are very similar to what we will break ground on in the next couple of months.

Maybe it was mentioned somewhere & I just missed it, but what is the actual dimensions of your garage? Squeezing 2 cars in length wise from time to time is exactly what I'd love to do. EDIT : Nevermind - just found that it was 28 x 34. Great to know!

Wow, thanks for taking the time to read through it all! It’s been a long journey with the house stuff… one that I don’t think I could do again haha.

Definitely a lot of similarities with those Jeeps. I’ve always tossed around the idea of getting a TJ, but I have my heart set on an LJ if I end up getting a wrangler. Pricing is pretty nuts on those unfortunately, so I don’t think it will happen. Who knows though, never say never!
 

K5/TBSS

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Thank you! The upgrades are fun to do (lift, stereo etc) but the maintenance/repairs are not as exciting. So, I’m definitely glad to have this one behind me!


Wow, thanks for taking the time to read through it all! It’s been a long journey with the house stuff… one that I don’t think I could do again haha.

Definitely a lot of similarities with those Jeeps. I’ve always tossed around the idea of getting a TJ, but I have my heart set on an LJ if I end up getting a wrangler. Pricing is pretty nuts on those unfortunately, so I don’t think it will happen. Who knows though, never say never!
I hear you. I'm always on the look out for a TJ Rubicon or LJ Rubicon. But prices these days make me so sad. lol
 
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Back to some more overdue maintenance items on the XJ! Not very exciting, but stuff that had to be done.

First up, drained the oil for an oil change, and tackled one of the most annoying bolts to get to on this thing. There is a right angle oil filter adapter that sticks off the block on the passenger side. There is a big O-ring behind this that gets old, hard, and leaks oil like a MOFO. Mine was no exception. Its a huge T-60 torx bolt off the side that is fastened with red Loctite from the factory, and very limited clearance to get to it.

IMG_4456.JPEG

The trick is to pound a T-60 hex shank out of a socket, stick that in there, and then use a 12mm wrench on the shank to turn it. But it's so hard to turn you need to use a cheater pipe. I rounded off 2 craftsman wrenches, and then snapped this HF stubby.

IMG_4461.JPEG

I used one of my nicer wrenches in the end that I was trying to avoid using, and it finally came off. I didn't take many other photos because this whole process was miserable. The side of the engine, control arms, and axle were all covered in old oil that had been leaking, so I was also covered in it once I was done from trying to contort my arms in there... but it is in and no longer leaking. I don't know how people manage to do this job on their back in the driveway without a lift.

If you're keeping score, that's the valve cover done, and now this oil filter adapter. All that's left is the rear main seal and oil pan gasket, and then hopefully the 4.0L will stop marking it's territory wherever I park. I was planning to do these as well, but had enough of the mess. I'll save them for next year's oil change.

Next up, spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I've never had so much trouble getting spark plug wires off before. Someone clearly didn't use dielectric grease.... so they had to be cut and dismantled. Once I finally got to the plugs, I was amazed this thing had been running as well as it had over the last year, as the plugs were well past due.

IMG_4450.JPEG

Look at that gap. Thankfully, the 4.0L is basically a tractor engine, so it takes a lot to bring one down.

New wires, cap, and rotor all in:

IMG_4451.JPEG

Finally, time for the fuel injectors. I am upgrading to a set of 4 hole injectors, over the factory single holes. Getting the fuel rail off was a bear. Those injectors have been baked in there for the last 23 years and they put up a fight. A ratchet strap and slide hammer may or may not have been involved in their removal, but I yanked it out.

New injectors installed in the rail, and the heat cover applied. As I was discussing with @zmotorsports earlier, heat soak can be an annoying problem with these, so I am doing the insulation kit from design engineering while I have this apart.

IMG_4475.JPEG

Fuel rail installed back into the jeep. You can also see the heat shield here that sits under the rail, which is included in the kit. There are also 6 individual wraps for each injector, but I left them off for now because I wanted to inspect for leaks.

IMG_4478.JPEG

Cleared the ECU so it can go through the re-learn procedure to dial in the new fuel/air ratios. After one very rough first start, it now runs beautifully. Idles like a brand new car, honestly, and revs up nice and smooth. Took it on a victory cruise to get some ice cream with the family after. Really happy with how it is running!

IMG_4502.JPEG

I also installed a H4 headlight harness from K Suspension. I'm having an issue now where the high beams and low beams are backwards. I am convinced their harness was wired incorrectly.... going to email them Monday to see what they say. It's been a ton of work, but really am having fun with this thing and happy how it is coming together! Really hoping to put some miles on this this summer.
 

BigNuge

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Hey stranger, the XJ projects continues I see! I had to do the same on my 99, only I just made the panels and fabbed up a repair patch for the seat mount.

Glad to be coming out of the grips of winter. I just wrapped up a Tundra project, now planning the spring project season….

Hope all is well!
 

slik560

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It's painfully obvious that the people that design these motors have never conferred with those that actually work on the vehicles. That oil filter housing is one **** design.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Hey stranger, the XJ projects continues I see! I had to do the same on my 99, only I just made the panels and fabbed up a repair patch for the seat mount.

Glad to be coming out of the grips of winter. I just wrapped up a Tundra project, now planning the spring project season….

Hope all is well!

Yes! Hadn't touched it in months with the new baby and all, but I made some time to knock out a bunch of stuff. Gotta have it tip top so I can keep up with that Sequoia of yours when we (hopefully) meet up for a cruise soon! All is well here, though. Good to hear from you as always man.

It just looks 'right' with all you've done!

Thank you! I think so too :)

It's painfully obvious that the people that design these motors have never conferred with those that actually work on the vehicles. That oil filter housing is one **** design.

You've got that right. The XJ was first introduced in 1984 with a 2.8V6 engine. It was underpowered and a turd in gereal, so they slapped the new 4.0L in there in 1987. There really wasn't enough space in the engine bay for the motor, so there was a lot of annoying stuff they did to make it work, like that oil filter adapter. This is also why cooling is a big issue as well. It's a great motor, though!
 
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Mr. Roboto

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So I had a set of JKS adjustable quick disconnect sway bar end links on the Jeep. In theory, they’re great, because you can extend them to the proper length to account for the extra lift height. And JKS is a very highly regarded company. In practice, however, they have been garbage. Too many moving parts that kept loosening up on me no matter what I did. As a result, the front end was always clunking over bumps and it was driving me insane.

the JKS links, for reference, after I removed them:

BB615785-8376-4824-AC5D-F2D327C85416.jpeg

here is my new setup. I installed a set of drop brackets to lower the sway bar, and set of moog fixed length sway bar end links. Sway bar/link angles are still perfect, and no more clunking!

97389EAA-DF65-4561-9D72-762B22FB1A0B.jpeg
 

BigNuge

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So I had a set of JKS adjustable quick disconnect sway bar end links on the Jeep. In theory, they’re great, because you can extend them to the proper length to account for the extra lift height. And JKS is a very highly regarded company. In practice, however, they have been garbage. Too many moving parts that kept loosening up on me no matter what I did. As a result, the front end was always clunking over bumps and it was driving me insane.

the JKS links, for reference, after I removed them:

BB615785-8376-4824-AC5D-F2D327C85416.jpeg

here is my new setup. I installed a set of drop brackets to lower the sway bar, and set of moog fixed length sway bar end links. Sway bar/link angles are still perfect, and no more clunking!

97389EAA-DF65-4561-9D72-762B22FB1A0B.jpeg

That’s pretty surprising for those links. I used the QD links that came with my 4.5” RC lift. They were good quality, but not adjustable. Never had a noise come from them, and I wheeled it with the kinks still connected several times.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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That’s pretty surprising for those links. I used the QD links that came with my 4.5” RC lift. They were good quality, but not adjustable. Never had a noise come from them, and I wheeled it with the kinks still connected several times.

yeah, it was odd, not what I expected . From what I’ve read, I’m not the only one that had this issue with the JKS links too. Oh well!

Also, I just ordered this roof rack (without the light bar). I hate the basket I have on there now. It was a temporary setup for my spare until I could get something better.


A1A3D273-D9D7-4910-B4F4-207727619426.jpeg
 

Balor

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yeah, it was odd, not what I expected . From what I’ve read, I’m not the only one that had this issue with the JKS links too. Oh well!

Also, I just ordered this roof rack (without the light bar). I hate the basket I have on there now. It was a temporary setup for my spare until I could get something better.


A1A3D273-D9D7-4910-B4F4-207727619426.jpeg

Nice rack, who made it?
 

Robey5

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Aaaahhhh the XJ. I had a 1995 version of that rig, one of the most sure-footed 4WD vehicles I’ve ever owned. I putt 230k miles on it, and gave it to someone who was likely unappreciative of the gift, because it was “old” and did not have creature comfort **** that was being introduced in the 2004 time frame. That 4L is robust - though not a dragster, nor a high raving motor. A couple things I do not miss about that rig was that the transmission was kind of easily confused, and the Chrysler quality made for stupid things to have to be replaced often, like .… the bolts to hold the 4wd selector, the rear wiper motor and also the lift gate struts are a “disposable“ item.

Yours XJ is pretty nice, and is being maintained well over there!
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Nice rack, who made it?

Sorry for the delay, it's a JCR Adventure roof rack.

Aaaahhhh the XJ. I had a 1995 version of that rig, one of the most sure-footed 4WD vehicles I’ve ever owned. I putt 230k miles on it, and gave it to someone who was likely unappreciative of the gift, because it was “old” and did not have creature comfort **** that was being introduced in the 2004 time frame. That 4L is robust - though not a dragster, nor a high raving motor. A couple things I do not miss about that rig was that the transmission was kind of easily confused, and the Chrysler quality made for stupid things to have to be replaced often, like .… the bolts to hold the 4wd selector, the rear wiper motor and also the lift gate struts are a “disposable“ item.

Yours XJ is pretty nice, and is being maintained well over there!

Put a lift and larger tires on, and it gets even more confused hahaha. I had a 98 10 years ago, which was a 5 speed manual. It was so much better. If I ever find the right parts vehicle, I would HEAVILY consider manual swapping this one.


I did manage to get the rack on this weekend.

Assembly was straightforward:

E4FF5B40-4359-4B70-A407-CA70EEACE3CA.jpeg

And installed! I love it. So much better than the cheap basket I had up there before. I am going to engineer my own spare tire mount for it (I think). The one from JCR is $200+. I already spent enough on this damn rack haha.

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Mr. Roboto

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Nothing too exciting to report… but I’ve had this hitch sitting in the garage for almost 2 months. Finally got around to it today. I don’t ever really plan on towing with the Jeep, but I’d like to install a shackle hitch receiver for recovery purposes, and to be able to use a hitch mounted bike rack.

I ordered this tubular Curt hitch. Same one I bought for my old 98 XJ 10+ years ago. The drivers side gets installed with carriage bolts and those square plates like most hitches these days. Passenger side uses the factory nut strip in the frame rail. Well, those holes that have been un used for the last 23 years were a bit crusty. Tried to clean them out with a wire brush but no luck. I don’t have any metric taps, so I had to run to ace hardware and get an M12x1.75 tap to chase the threads. It with on without a “hitch” after that. See what I did there? I’ll see myself out now…

34F3240E-04F3-49BE-BF5D-D632E9E14FEB.jpeg

AD84F51B-2462-4133-A26E-FF9221C894A7.jpeg
 
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Mr. Roboto

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So I posted about a year ago that my 60 gallon air compressor died on me. Because of where I have it in my garage, getting it it to diagnose is a challenge.

1F9EAD7C-962C-4984-B31B-A94BBEE6BEA3.jpeg

I pulled the start and run capacitors a year ago and they checked out fine,but that’s as far as I went. I’ve been using my 5 gallon pancake compressor ever since. Well Friday, I finally moved everything out of the way to get at the rear of it so I could remove the belt. I noticed a lot of belt material inside the belt guard when I removed it. But, the pump spun fine, motor ran fine. Embarrassed to admit, but the old belt was definitely just spinning. It was very glazed over:

16431C4E-2985-4F03-AA82-48B795F1C8E7.jpeg

Ran to tractor supply, and bought a new belt. Threw it on, adjusted the tension, and it runs great now:

DA0874D0-E7AC-4852-B8E9-78985D16BA03.jpeg

Kind of sad that I put this off for so long. I had been researching new compressors lately because I had assumed the worst of this one. Been setting aside some money too. I also don’t think I NEED a 60 gallon compressor. A 30 would probably do me just fine. Plus it would be portable…. Which means I could blow my own irrigation system out instead of paying someone.

I paid $429 for this compressor brand new on a very good sale 5 years ago. I listed it up for $400 and it sold within a day. Compressor prices, like everything else, have come up a lot in recent times. So, time to get shopping for an upgrade!
 
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Mr. Roboto

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One more quick little project done last night. I last drove the Jeep about a week ago. Any time I hit a bump, the door locks would lock themselves. Also, any time I closed the passenger door, so I knew the issue was with that side. This is also where most of the chewed wires were from the mice that invaded under the previous owners ownership.

Quickly consulted the factory service manual, and found that the orange wire with black stripe provides the door lock signal from the switch. Sure enough, here is what I found:

C9F5CAE7-95D4-4E03-A23A-E04920E71C23.jpeg

Small chew marks, but definitely enough to expose the conductor and cause a short to ground. I came across some other damaged wiring as well, so I disconnected it all from the kick panel and pulled it out. Repaired what was damaged, and re-loomed everything with some cloth tape. Opened and closed the door several times, and went for a quick ride over some bumps to verify: no more issues!
F283E045-0017-4BE5-B3B8-BDADF8CCEF0F.jpeg
 

M-technik-3

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I never noticed that this style jeep used a head that the intake and the exhaust exited on the same side. I imagine if exhaust was on the passenger side it would made a few extra hp/tq from not being heat soaked. Sorry to hear about your compressor, but glad it was resolved easily.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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I never noticed that this style jeep used a head that the intake and the exhaust exited on the same side. I imagine if exhaust was on the passenger side it would made a few extra hp/tq from not being heat soaked. Sorry to hear about your compressor, but glad it was resolved easily.
Yeah, it's not the best design in that regard. That's why I installed the heat shield kit. Should hopefully help some!

I want to get some exhaust work done, so I wanted to address the middle exhaust hanger mount before bringing it to a shop. The transmission mount and hanger are semi integrated into one assembly. You can change the transmission mount out no problem, but the exhaust hanger is no longer available. So, I had to come up with my own solution.

Here is the plate removed. The worn out exhaust bushing is the block on the right.

image_50432001.JPG

Ground/drilled out the rivets holding it in place. to remove it:

image_50406401.JPG

Here is the old bushing, and the new one I ordered to attempt to replace it with. I ordered it based on a P/N I found on a jeep forum. It didn't quite match the photo online, so not what I was expecting.

image_50362113.JPG

I rotated it 90* from that orientation and drilled a 1/2" hole into the flat side of it. Good excuse to use the drill press.... which I hardly ever seem to find a use for these days.

image_67516929.JPG

There we go:

image_50434817.JPG

I cleaned up and painted all the metal components. Reinstalled with some new stainless steel 1/4-20 hardware with locking nuts.

image_50448641.JPG

Plate back in place, with the new transmission mount. you can get a good idea of what this plate does. now.

image_50452481.JPG

And finally, transmission crossmember back in:

image_50431489.JPG

I kind of enjoyed this repair. It's nice to be able to come up with a new solution to a problem, instead of just throwing replacement parts at it. As you can see, there exhaust in this section is pretty crusty. Now that the new exhaust manifold is in, and this mount has been repaired, it's off to the exhaust shop.
 
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Mr. Roboto

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Location
New Hampshire
Nice repair - looks great!

Thank you!

Keep it, Do you bring your kids when you go out the mud holes?

Keep the Jeep? I don’t have any plans to get rid of it! I’m not much of a going mudding kind of guy. Too much clean up.

Took a break from the Jeep projects to do one quick garage related project. I have a bandsaw that I inherited from my grandfather, and a floor standing drill press that I bought off a coworker for $100 that I couldn’t pass up. I don’t use them a ton, but I like having them around. I keep them tucked away off to the side of the garage, but using them is a pain since I either try to use them in place, or drag them out by sliding them across the floor. Neither is ideal.

I finally broke down and got some mobile tool bases. These ones attach to plywood that you custom cut to size.

They move around nice and easy now.


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This is where they live when not in use
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Next up is cleaning off that tool cart to the right, to make room for all of this.

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To be clear, I have never welded before. But I have been wanting to learn for a long time. And I have a little project that will be made easier by welding. After some research, and a recent Harbor Freight sale, I picked up one of their cheaper flux core MIG welders, helmet, and some safety gear. Looking forward to trying to weld!
 
OP
M

Mr. Roboto

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
2,159
Location
New Hampshire
Nice! I'm more of a burner than a welder. I can certainly turn metal into a liquid, but I'm not particularly skilled at making that liquid stick!

Cheers!

Well, I don’t have experience with either! Haha.

Back to a Jeep project tonight. I’ve had an intermittent airbag light since I bought it. Then after 6 months the cruise control stopped working. Signs were pointing to a bad clockspring, but I was putting it off. Well finally, the horn gave out on me as well, so I couldn’t ignore it anymore.

Good excuse to buy a new tool: a steering wheel puller. Didn’t take many photos, but here is the puller in action.

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And the new clockspring in in place:

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Horn, cruise, and airbag are all operational again. Success! I think someone had messed with the old one at some point. It was clocked 180* out of where it should have been, and I noticed a mark on the end of the steering shaft where someone had used a puller before. Also, kind of a rip off that the new part cost $110. The version that supports cruise control was significantly higher. Oh well, back in business at least!
 
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Geoff289

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
1,207
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Greetings from Australia. I haven't posted on your thread until now but have read it from end to end. I like how you've made your drill press and band saw mobile. Tell me, are they stable when you move them around or a bit top heavy and you have to be careful?
 
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