To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Above 1200 Sq/FT Rocket Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Instead of building a garage and posting it to find out everything I did wrong - thought maybe I’d post early in the process and just build a better garage. Reading through a lot of peoples posts I know that one size does not fit all. But this community seems to be very helpful and positive so I am hoping to harness some of that.

The garage is being built mostly underground. It will go under part of the existing lawn and then we will add 4,000 sqft of lawn to cover the rest. The current floor plan that I have doesn’t show the shop sink and washer/dryer in the storage room and most importantly the urinal in the bathroom. The architect had the washer/dryer in the bathroom and that was an easy choice to move into the shop to make room for the urinal. The rest is pretty straightforward. Ceiling height I believe is 14’ in the main garage and slopes down to 9’ at the double bay garage. The elevation was a previous rendition before I added the storage area. Let the games begin.IMG_0090.jpegIMG_0153.jpeg
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

mrbill55

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
1,258
Location
Greenville, SC
Instead of building a garage and posting it to find out everything I did wrong - thought maybe I’d post early in the process and just build a better garage. Reading through a lot of peoples posts I know that one size does not fit all. But this community seems to be very helpful and positive so I am hoping to harness some of that.

The garage is being built mostly underground. It will go under part of the existing lawn and then we will add 4,000 sqft of lawn to cover the rest. The current floor plan that I have doesn’t show the shop sink and washer/dryer in the storage room and most importantly the urinal in the bathroom. The architect had the washer/dryer in the bathroom and that was an easy choice to move into the shop to make room for the urinal. The rest is pretty straightforward. Ceiling height I believe is 14’ in the main garage and slopes down to 9’ at the double bay garage. The elevation was a previous rendition before I added the storage area. Let the games begin.
Looks like a nice layout, are you planning direct access from the house above?

Bill S.
 
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Looks like a nice layout, are you planning direct access from the house above?

Bill S.
There is a walkway through the yard to the long stairs you see on the right side of the glass portion of the garage. Not sure I love that access. San Diego doesn’t get much weather so that helps. One thought was to modify the side garage. I asked the architect about making it the height of the backyard. I was envisioning triple stack lifts with a glass front. Then on top a bathroom for the backyard and an elevator.

I hate elevators cause all they do is break. And the eye roll from the architect told me my idea was going to reflect poorly on the budget. Heheh. So maybe that’s out. We have 4 single garages and parking for 7 up at the main house so this garage is just for the fun cars.

The distances involved and the hillside make a direct connection very difficult.
 

BombShelter

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Messages
541
Location
State of Hockey
Looks like a fun project, I'd be looking into A+ waterproofing, personally I love CETCO Bentonite Waterproofing Products, Swelltite for the walls, Voltex for under the floor if needed. I'm not a fan of peel and stick asphalt-based waterproofing.

You'd have to call them for the roof, I think they use Voltex but I'm not sure. Don't forget the Bentoseal for imperfections and tie-rod holes, just smear it on potential problem areas. And Hydrotubes are great on the exterior footing/wall junction, these last two items could easily be installed by the homeowner and up the long-term water resistance 100x for low dough.

Spancrete Roofs tend to leak where the spancrete sits on the wall, personally I'd request that area above grade but it's not possible if your underground. I'd get a few opinions of the best way to seal it with concrete, then I'd smear Bentoseal over any mortar and lay Voltex. or Swelltite, over that covering the roof and part of the wall at minimum.

We have a lot of old-folks buildings up here with parking under the building, usually V-shaped and 3-5 stories. Some of those get lots of water when it rains entering in between the basement (parking) wall and ceiling. Sometimes water sits in the hollow tubes of the Spancrete and after 20 or so years, the rust marks start bleeding through.

If your in San Diego or a similar place, they get it too but it's usually during the January Rain Storms.
 
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Looks like a fun project, I'd be looking into A+ waterproofing, personally I love CETCO Bentonite Waterproofing Products, Swelltite for the walls, Voltex for under the floor if needed. I'm not a fan of peel and stick asphalt-based waterproofing.

You'd have to call them for the roof, I think they use Voltex but I'm not sure. Don't forget the Bentoseal for imperfections and tie-rod holes, just smear it on potential problem areas. And Hydrotubes are great on the exterior footing/wall junction, these last two items could easily be installed by the homeowner and up the long-term water resistance 100x for low dough.

Spancrete Roofs tend to leak where the spancrete sits on the wall, personally I'd request that area above grade but it's not possible if your underground. I'd get a few opinions of the best way to seal it with concrete, then I'd smear Bentoseal over any mortar and lay Voltex. or Swelltite, over that covering the roof and part of the wall at minimum.

We have a lot of old-folks buildings up here with parking under the building, usually V-shaped and 3-5 stories. Some of those get lots of water when it rains entering in between the basement (parking) wall and ceiling. Sometimes water sits in the hollow tubes of the Spancrete and after 20 or so years, the rust marks start bleeding through.

If you’re in San Diego or a similar place, they get it too but it's usually during the January Rain Storms.
The waterproofing part of the puzzle is terrifying in my mind. I have mentioned I want the ceilings to have angles in the pour to direct water where we want. I have a firm belief water will always win so rather than hope and pray it will lose, build for it. One new product was mentioned and said to be bulletproof - don’t believe it. I will research all the products you mentioned. Unfortunately the roof and walls will meet under 3’ of engineered soil to allow the law to grow above. That will of course mean a different water penetration from the standard soil so just one more problem to deal with and overcome.

Appreciate the insight. Apparently there is a fault line on the property so have to deal with some more soil engineers. Before going to the Coastal Commission. All fun I guess. Initial meeting with city planning at the end of the month. Had a brief conference call with the department who brought up some possible hiccups but doesn’t seem like anything that can’t be dealt with. Good Times!
 
Last edited:

BombShelter

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Messages
541
Location
State of Hockey
Do a lot of research, get everything in writing! I would personally call the local contractor building supplier and interview their top 3-5 waterproofers and see what they offer and their warranty. Even Bentonite can have failures, usually if it is not flat against the surface or the contractor rips it while backfilling. A good general will require photos of backfilling.

Bentonite is a great proven waterproofing material with lots of other uses including pond/lake linings, trash dump linings and many more.
 

Swanny1953

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jul 28, 2010
Messages
1,051
Location
Lucas, TX
This looks like fun. I tried to convince a buddy to do an underground garage as his lot slopes away significantly like this one seems to do. He refused to go that way due to the additional cost. Subscribed for the ride!
 
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
So I’ve spent the week trying to chase down a seismic report. Apparently the property line between the two parcels I’m combining to do this garage is also the location of a fault line. Because it has to be a habitable space you need to have a seismic report done. Tear up the landscaping to bore a bunch of holes. Then watch the holes. If it was uninhabited space I wouldn’t need the report but San Diego doesn’t allow you to build a stand alone garage on a parcel. So we are going to be trying to play in some gray area of the rules, if that doesn’t work might just combine the main house property above with the 2 properties where the garage will be. I remember not wanting to combine them before but am forgetting why I wanted them to remain separate. Just seems like I am screwing my future self in combining everything.

Initial meeting with the city regarding 2 curb cuts which they aren’t thrilled with and some setback envelope questions. More preliminary meetings to formally review the square footage. Underground sqft doesn’t count for coverage area or setbacks. At least in theory setbacks are designed to ensure neighbors don’t block out the sun so if you are underground you have no setback. Fun.

Ordered 2 lifts to help with the car problem. On a positive note I lost an auction for a car I wanted this week so one less headache to worry about.

Attached an image showing the existing lawn with the added lawn as a result of the garage underneath.

IMG_0500.jpegIMG_0501.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Made some modifications to the design to bring it a little inline with the architecture of the main house. Not exactly a match but at least some lean towards the min house. Main house is craftsman style so the all glass and concrete look was in very stark contrast.

Has anyone had any experience with BendPak’s PL-6KT -> 3 wide lift? Was thinking this would be nice to remove 8 posts from the equation. The documentation is inconsistent as far as how many locking positions it has. One spot says 1 and another says 7. 1 seems pretty dumb but maybe. Don’t like the way the crossbeam blocks the lifted car but at the end of the day not sure how important that is when compared to getting rid of all those posts.

Watched dozens of “dream garage” videos this weekend looking for input/ideas/fils of how to layout a garage. There seems to be zero consensus. A wash bay seems like a bad idea given limited space. So probably keep that outside. San Diego has pretty friendly year round outdoor car washing weather.IMG_0583.jpegIMG_0586.jpeg
 

Eric W11

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2020
Messages
111
Location
Tucson, AZ
From the overhead view, looks like the inboard / rear side spots (the outer two of the four spots along the hillside wall) don't have straight out access to the door. Looks like your door is a roll up door. I'd consider doubling the roll-up door to two double-wide (16' minimum, or 18' if you can do it) roll up doors, since on either side of your roll-up door looks like blank wall anyway. That way, all spots in the larger garage would have straight-out access. Even if your back corner spots are for static / long-term display/storage cars, you'll still appreciate not having to go through jacks & dollies to get the back corner cars in & out.

My garage is double deep, and even the action of moving the outer car to get the one further in can put a damper on running the ones parked further in. Your single central door configuration would have to move two cars out, one on dollies, then get dollies again to get the back corner cars out - I just wouldn't do it, but I like having all my cars to be ready to drive at any time. Even with moving cars to get to other ones I like being able to do without jacks, dollies, and no more than a minute or two to get a car out of the way.
 
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Definitely concerned with ease of movement. Don’t have any cars that I let sit for very long so being able to easily get to them is very important. This original garage design was done right on the property line. If the construction is underground there is no setback so it was right in the line. That property line dictated a lot. But now it has become evident that we are going to have to combine 3 lots instead of 2 to pull this off. Waiting on attorney signoff this week hopefully. That will no doubt result in moving the entire garage back away from the street and allowing for better turning radius’ outside the garage. It may also result in a deeper garage to allow better movement inside the garage. Just chewing up more hill - and budget.

I have zero interest in needing to use dollie’s to move cars around. I’ll never drive a car that requires that much effort to extract. The architects seemed to think I’d be able to maneuver cars around in the current layout. But doing it on paper and in real life rent exactly the same. Current layout has 2 posts. My guess is we will end up with 1 post. Wondering if we move the posts to accommodate the 3 wide BendPak lift or use AutoStackers and 2 posts. Lots of variables. Budget has gotten a little out of hand so might need to start money vs dream.

But yes I can see your point in having a larger door!! Thank you
 
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Well met with the GC today. Zoinks! Nothing good can happen from those meetings. Brought a proposed budget that I admit was 1.5 more than I was expecting. $941,520 for grading. Because all the dirt would need to be hauled away. And the walls being 20’ tall means you have to temporarily slope the hill to build the walls. Then haul dirt back in to backfill. Even so. Seems like a lot. Maybe just buy myself a semi trailer and an excavator and haul the dirt out to the ranch.

2 thoughts come to mind. 1) is to pull the garage out of the existing hillside more to reduce the amount of earth being disturbed. Give up some driveway space in front of the garage as I have driveway space in the front of the house for 10 cars. 2) We own an additional teardown house on the property next door to where the garage is. We had planned on building both at the same time but now I’m thinking demo the house and just pile all the dirt on that lot. Save hundreds of truck trips and dump fees.

Concrete costs are $1,720,211. That seems like a lot for concrete. Would prefab panels be a better option? They are calling for cast in place walls. I don’t know if you can do 20’ precast walls when they are holding back a hill. Not sure how to work around this cost. Kinda need walls. I mean. I’ll buy the beer and bourbon if y’all bring your hammers and we knock out some 20’ forms.

Going to pull the garage out of the hill a bit and see how that impacts numbers. Ohh. And maybe a pool on the top instead of just lawn. More to come.
 

mrbill55

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
1,258
Location
Greenville, SC
Well met with the GC today. Zoinks! Nothing good can happen from those meetings. Brought a proposed budget that I admit was 1.5 more than I was expecting. $941,520 for grading. Because all the dirt would need to be hauled away. And the walls being 20’ tall means you have to temporarily slope the hill to build the walls. Then haul dirt back in to backfill. Even so. Seems like a lot. Maybe just buy myself a semi trailer and an excavator and haul the dirt out to the ranch.

2 thoughts come to mind. 1) is to pull the garage out of the existing hillside more to reduce the amount of earth being disturbed. Give up some driveway space in front of the garage as I have driveway space in the front of the house for 10 cars. 2) We own an additional teardown house on the property next door to where the garage is. We had planned on building both at the same time but now I’m thinking demo the house and just pile all the dirt on that lot. Save hundreds of truck trips and dump fees.

Concrete costs are $1,720,211. That seems like a lot for concrete. Would prefab panels be a better option? They are calling for cast in place walls. I don’t know if you can do 20’ precast walls when they are holding back a hill. Not sure how to work around this cost. Kinda need walls. I mean. I’ll buy the beer and bourbon if y’all bring your hammers and we knock out some 20’ forms.

Going to pull the garage out of the hill a bit and see how that impacts numbers. Ohh. And maybe a pool on the top instead of just lawn. More to come.
While the pricing seems astronomical to most who will read this thread, the scope of the work appears to be in order given your location (California). I suspect in an area not potentially subject to sporadic and sudden seismic shift and potential landslide due to heavy rains (El Nino/La Nina does not help). The amount of additional site work is due to not only those factors, but the state, county, local rules and regulations that covers such construction. Not withstanding these minor, and not so minor factors, it really boils down to the massive amount of materials that need to be moved and brought in. For the basics, at least for excavation considerations, you need to calculate the volume of material (basic volume calculations of length x width x depth) that needs to be properly excavated. Figure $6.00-$15.00 per cubic yard for material removal (rocks, ledges, etc will raise the costs), another $250-$300/hr for equipment and operator. Now you have trucking costs, even if it is going next door, the costs for equipment, operator, insurance, prep for the dump area, runoff controls, etc will come in to play. I suspect if you bought the equipment yourself, and decided to take this one full time, you as a one man wrecking crew can get the job done in roughly 3-5 years, at least the proper excavation, site prep, and compaction of the raw dirt. So keep this in mind in your question to save 5%% on your up front site prep costs (you will not be as efficient as a competent contractor and crew) .Since I mentioned insurance, you need this for the property while under construction, this is to cover you in case someone gets hurt on your property, make certain you speak with your insurance broker on this.
Now, let's talk about concrete and site prep, again, knowing the general scope is a main factor, it is more on a commercial level than a residential level, with that in mind, coupled with the previous rules, regulations, etc, your costs are probably twice what a similar project would be outside of your risk zone. Prep and materials will be your highest costs, labor will be second, actual materials third. Additional, structural materials due to the seismic issues are a major cost factor given the size of the project, labor and equipment costs as well.

Finally, and this just crossed my mind, with the massive scale of the proposal, did you reach out to commercial contractors for additional quotes vs residential contractors, who may be in over their heads thinking they can make that jump to commercial.
Looking forward to more updates and site pictures once things get physically off the ground.


Bill S.

PS: My first bid for my small 30x50 garage project (which turned into a complete gut to the studs for the house while we were at it) was easily 150% higher than I expected. Getting the right builder in and coupling it with the additional rehab work on the house, brought the final costs down to 105% of what I had original thought in my mind.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Hey Bill. I know the numbers might turn some folks off from joining the conversation, but I’m just dealing with the realities presented on this project. Over spending on a garage hopefully won’t keep people from putting in their 2 cents on how to deal with floor lighting and outlets, or cabinet layout or hardline routing. Just looking for honest input. I considered skipping the hard numbers but I find the projects I have read through are easier to understand with numbers attached to the discussion.

Will definitely be getting additional bids once we make a few modifications to the design - like pulling the structure out of the hill a bit. Will never get the price of the garage back out of the property. The property has 2 single car garages and 1 double. It would benefit from additional garage space but my guess is we'd be lucky to reclaim 40% of the price of the garage down the road.

At one point in the design of the house we are building on the adjacent property - the idea was brought up to build a Batcave under the house. The estimated cost was 1.5. Even if that doubled it would still be an amazing savings compared to the stand alone garage on the property with the main house. But then we are committed to not selling that house. The parents are getting older so the the thought was to just hang onto it in case we have to move the parents close. Batcave plans attached. Not completely thought out - that pole in the middle would be a problem!

On the flip side of all of this would be to just spend like $750 on a 10k sqft hangar out on our ranch an hour away. Sure it’s not as cool as a big garage walking distance from the house. But the savings could put some pretty cool toys inside that hangar.

Just thinking out loud. We will see what the revision looks like when pulled out from the hill a bit.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1885.jpeg
    IMG_1885.jpeg
    221.2 KB · Views: 84
  • IMG_1887.jpeg
    IMG_1887.jpeg
    268.7 KB · Views: 86
Last edited:

TurnipTruck

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2005
Messages
1,551
Location
Southcentral Alaska
The first step toward a batcave would obviously be a turntable:



IMG_0563.jpegBenefits:
1) You can stuff more treasures inside, and they’d have easy access without moving others.
2) Fewer tire scuff marks on the flooring.
3) Circular concrete retaining walls would be stronger.
4) The turntable might be available with an optional “spin dry” setting.
 
Last edited:
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
If it comes with Spin Dry it does become a must have. All those pesky water spot and trails.

Some updates on the project but not a lot of progress. The architects started working on a plan bringing the garage more out into daylight but that resulted in a reduction in the overall size of the garage with not nearly as severe a cost reduction. 16 car/$4.5 garage vs the modified 8 car/$3.3 garage. I had them abandon moving that design any further. Sat on it for a bit. Bought a commercial building but it’s completely leased and 30 minutes away so not exactly a path to satisfying the storage problem. Decided to just say screw it and have them build the original garage so I can move on with my life and not get buried with this project. Started talking to dirt people. How can I get this million dollar dirt number down. Trucking the dirt out to the ranch isn’t feasible. So I looked at buying land 30 minutes away that I could haul the dirt too, sort and bring half back. Actually found 3 properties that would work. Would need permits from the county for major grading. Maybe I could get away with it cause by the time I got in trouble half the dirt would go back to the job site?? But then thinking past the money/dirt the idea of living in a construction zone ripping up the backyard we just spent 2 years redoing…. Had the idea of just buying a house across the street, tearing it down and building from scratch. But since there is a view those houses don’t go for cheap. I’d be right back at the $4.5 number in a heartbeat.

So short story long. Have now repointed the architects yet again. Just build a garage on the separate parcel regardless if I can see it. Don't bury it under a lawn or pool and don’t require 20’ retaining walls. Should be able to still get 12-16 cars and keep it under $3. As a bonus not have to destroy the yard completely.

Image attached shows the project area. The original plan was adding 4,000 sqft of lawn and building the garage under the now larger lawn. The existing lawn is on the right of the image. So imagine that lawn extending to the left 50’. New plan is to build a structure in the lower yard that extends a bit into the hillside on two sides. Hopefully we can squeeze it in so the retaining walls are too large and we won’t have to rip up too much lawn. IMG_7715.jpeg
 

mrbill55

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
1,258
Location
Greenville, SC
In the long run, sometimes "less is more", it's not a matter of the funds being shelled out, but the end results that you ultimately decide to make happen. Since you already have the side property, it makes sense to use it, as long as it does not impede the view from the main house. Aesthetics wise, instead of treating it as a separate building, with it's own identity, you could always draw off the current homes design and make it more of an extension of the main house, with a similar style. I personally have several friends in the northeast that bought the property next to theirs, removed the 40 year old home, and added their dream garages. Designed in such a way, that when you drive by, you never notice it is just not another home in the neighborhood. One or two are over 15,000 sq/ft, both are multi level, as there property slopes towards the front.

Look forward to reading and seeing your final design and build out.

Bill S.
 
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
For anyone following along this garage build. This project would have been cool but for the expense didn’t solve enough of the storage problem. New plan is to use the property next door to build a garage and entertaining space. Combine it with the main property. Hopefully this will keep the construction/destruction a little more isolated and I don’t have to spend 2 years looking at mud.

I will create a new post for that garage project with the hope of getting input from folks that have already built their projects and might be willing to give me some pointers based on the evolution of our project.
 

Jacko264

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
927
Location
Kingston upon Hull uk
How disappointing it would have looked fantastic when finished .
Good luck with the new build .
They turn 50+ ton trains on turn tables so a car is nothing 😀
Graham
 
OP
B

Boomer2

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2023
Messages
13
Apologies I didn't get any notifications on these comments. @Swanny1953 - Updates are the City didn't laugh us out of thier office when we said we wanted to make a major change to the build. Considering it is such a major change I assumed they would just close us out and tell us to start over. So maybe Coastal will be as nice... @Cougar - What kind of cars... The fun ones that aren't daily. My first thought was to keep the cars thgarage queens on the top level so I can avoid the lift, however, the only experiences I have ever had with elevators is them breaking. So, I will keep the garage queens (show cars) up there mostly with a couple of the rarely driven ( twice a year) cars to make sure I have to move the elevator every couple months. Bottom floor will be the non grocery getters. Cars I try to drive around town now and then - anything the wife drives on occasion will have to be down there. Daily cars will be up at the house. @Jacko264 - don't have any customers cars.. I am not in that type of business. @Jagmandave - on the Point :)
 

Jagmandave

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Messages
6,299
Location
Overland Park, Ks.
Wow, I'm surprised you can build anything down there, (I assume you mean Point Loma?) let alone a new shop! Good luck, we'll be watching with interest.....
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom