56nash
Well-known member
Does anyone here have any experience with the RockSolid polyurea floor coating system? From what I have read it looks like a better coating than epoxy, any feedback would be appreciated.
RockSolid polyurea floor coating
- Thread starter 56nash
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GarageEnvy
Well-known member
I came very close to using it. You will here plenty of people warn you about how difficult polyureas are to apply. I believe there system mixes in the bag with burst pouches. I did 1800 sf and they were highly motivated to make a sale. They offered free shipping and 25% discount. In the end I went with Epoxy-Coat and used their polyurea top coat. It's only been a month but from what I've seen so far it is pretty tough. I dropped a 30 pound lista cabinet on it the other day (right on the corner of the cabinet) and it didn't leave a mark. No mark from a point of a metal shear that fell off the bench either.
x2, I was ready to use it and ran out of money. Did a lot of research and it seems to be the way the future of flooring is going. They were very motivated to sell to me too and gave me a big price break. I may revsit them in the Spring after my money tree sprouts again.
garage_man
Active member
Guys, i'm new here and wanted to chime in! i am just starting to "pimp" out my garage and i obviously started with the floor, i did a bunch of research on the rock solid kits and all the different epoxy systems. Seemed to me that the quality and durability of the polyurea was much better since it was thicker and also way more flexible, i talked to some local installers in the area who tried to sell me their version of a polyurea floor too and they said the same thing about epoxies, they switched over a few years ago and said they have had many less issues.
I assume that is why garage envy decided on a polyurea top coat but then, according to epoxy-coat, you have to sand the whole floor by hand and i worried that it wasnt going to stick or something.
I just felt the whole polyurea system was much better and worth the extra cost because the last thing i wanted to do was the floor again.
Rock Solid also gave me the discount.
The floor was simple to install, came with a dvd, and i had to call them for a simple question and they were very helpful and responsive.
that's my $.02
I assume that is why garage envy decided on a polyurea top coat but then, according to epoxy-coat, you have to sand the whole floor by hand and i worried that it wasnt going to stick or something.
I just felt the whole polyurea system was much better and worth the extra cost because the last thing i wanted to do was the floor again.
Rock Solid also gave me the discount.
The floor was simple to install, came with a dvd, and i had to call them for a simple question and they were very helpful and responsive.
that's my $.02
GarageEnvy
Well-known member
I became a believer in polyurea technology but intimidated by the process and pitfalls of installation. Obviously things can go very wrong with it but all I can say from the one floor that I did with it was that there were no problems whatsoever. It does cure fast but if you use an 18" roller like we did we were able to apply double batches (100 sf) in about 9 minutes. I wouldn't have had any problem putting down the Alpha Garage Endurashield stuff either but for the sake of not switching vendors and getting better UV resistance I went with the polyurea.
MAKE SURE you come back OFTEN and keep us posted on how it's holding up. You're the first person on record I think we know that has used their product.
garage_man
Active member
MAKE SURE you come back OFTEN and keep us posted on how it's holding up. You're the first person on record I think we know that has used their product.
Definately will, looks great now! ill attach pics soon for you guys
We applied a LINE-X Aspart-X (100% polyaspartic) chip floor to 800 sqft a few days ago. It's about as easy as easy gets. No mixing bags, the two chemicals come in two one-gallon cans, just mix 1:1 ratio. Home owner loved it. I have pics, but don't have my camera with me today.
Chips were four color 1/16". Home owner wanted "concrete colors", so the chips are white and tones of gray which is sort of boring to me, but that's what they wanted!
Chips were four color 1/16". Home owner wanted "concrete colors", so the chips are white and tones of gray which is sort of boring to me, but that's what they wanted!
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thanks guys, I know I for one would love to see pics of the Polyaspartic floors and I know from time to time a few others chime in and ask about it as well. Seems no one ever does it because it's brand new to the DIY market and professional installers have had issues with it curing too fast.
If it's high humidity (which causes it to dry in about 15 minutes), add 10% to 15% Xylol (available at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) to slow it down. No big problem. Check with your product's manufacturer first.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Garage Cronies:
Polyaspartic coatings like Polyureas cure fast. However, Polyaspartics are more color and UV stable, they are the CLEAREST CLEAR you will ever find. You will get yellowing down the road with the Ureas. That is why they almost always introduce it as a chip floor, to help hide the yellowing. Otherwise, they are close cousins.
Polyaspartic coatings like Polyureas cure fast. However, Polyaspartics are more color and UV stable, they are the CLEAREST CLEAR you will ever find. You will get yellowing down the road with the Ureas. That is why they almost always introduce it as a chip floor, to help hide the yellowing. Otherwise, they are close cousins.
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garage_man
Active member
Alright guys, as promised i am going to try to attach pics of my "Rock Solid" garage floor.
Hope you guys like it!
Just so you guys know, i installed this in about 75 degree temps or so and we did hurry to get all the chips down, everything went great and we didn't have any trouble with it setting up,
i would recommend getting a case of beer and a buddy to help. i don't think my wife would have liked to have to throw all those chips or would my wife and i been a good garage floor combo! plus there is plenty of dry time to sit, stare at your work, and drink that beer!
Hope you guys like it!
Just so you guys know, i installed this in about 75 degree temps or so and we did hurry to get all the chips down, everything went great and we didn't have any trouble with it setting up,
i would recommend getting a case of beer and a buddy to help. i don't think my wife would have liked to have to throw all those chips or would my wife and i been a good garage floor combo! plus there is plenty of dry time to sit, stare at your work, and drink that beer!
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garageking
Well-known member
i have a couple of cracks in my floor does this seals them or do i have to fill first
garage_man
Active member
Rock Solid has a patching product you can use to fill cracks, it would definately not fill them
garage_man
Active member
Definitely has texture, not sure how to explain how much, the chips are fully coated but they do stick up a little bit. it is still easy to clean, nothing really gets stuck in there or anything. i use a hose, some concrete cleaner, and my large broom to kinda scrub and hose it out and it is clean as new after that
Daddy_Rabbit
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not much shine in those pics ... actually looks dull.
-JP
Well-known member
Hi gents, I have been very busy lately and have not posted in a while but I wanted to chime in on this string.
I installed a new rocksolid floor coating and I must say I would NOT use this product if I were to do it again.
I installed the coating over 2 years ago and while it was a real pain putting down it did look good when I finished. The main problem I have is this stuff is just not tough enough to hold up in a garage where anyone plans to do anything more than park cars on it. I have had several episodes where I dropped something on the floor and a chunk of the flooring came up. I suppose this could also happen with other (epoxy) coatings but not to the degree I have experienced with this product. I have even had this happen when I dropped a 1/2" bolt out of my hand at 4 feet above the floor and a small chip of the coating will be scarred. The top clear coating is just not flexible like epoxy is to give a little to take the hit. The clear coating is very glossy but it will scratch like glass if you dragged anything across the floor. I have found that heavy polishing of the scratch can remove most of the blemish but not completely.
I know some are asking question about now so I will try and head off some of them by saying yes, I followed the directions perfectly. I even went the extra mile and rented a diamond grinder to etch the floor. I ran that thing for hours and spent hours cleaning up the dust it created prior to applying the coating.
The good side of the product is it does look good as far as shine even with the shark bite I added for slip protection and it does protect against everything I have spilled on it which includes everything you would expect in a working shop. It is pretty easy to clean up with a hose and squeegee and has kept it's shine over the years.
I have lots of pics and offer a few with this post. I am sure some will have questions so I will be glad to help and try to answer all.
JP
I installed a new rocksolid floor coating and I must say I would NOT use this product if I were to do it again.
I installed the coating over 2 years ago and while it was a real pain putting down it did look good when I finished. The main problem I have is this stuff is just not tough enough to hold up in a garage where anyone plans to do anything more than park cars on it. I have had several episodes where I dropped something on the floor and a chunk of the flooring came up. I suppose this could also happen with other (epoxy) coatings but not to the degree I have experienced with this product. I have even had this happen when I dropped a 1/2" bolt out of my hand at 4 feet above the floor and a small chip of the coating will be scarred. The top clear coating is just not flexible like epoxy is to give a little to take the hit. The clear coating is very glossy but it will scratch like glass if you dragged anything across the floor. I have found that heavy polishing of the scratch can remove most of the blemish but not completely.
I know some are asking question about now so I will try and head off some of them by saying yes, I followed the directions perfectly. I even went the extra mile and rented a diamond grinder to etch the floor. I ran that thing for hours and spent hours cleaning up the dust it created prior to applying the coating.
The good side of the product is it does look good as far as shine even with the shark bite I added for slip protection and it does protect against everything I have spilled on it which includes everything you would expect in a working shop. It is pretty easy to clean up with a hose and squeegee and has kept it's shine over the years.
I have lots of pics and offer a few with this post. I am sure some will have questions so I will be glad to help and try to answer all.
JP
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Garage_man1
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Daddy_rabbit, those pics i think are before the topcoat was on, its winter here, but once i clean it out ill post some brand new pics and you can take a better look.
Merry Xmas Everyone!
JP - I really wish i would have done a logo in mine, is that just a sticker you put down before the top coat?
I might need to get some more top coat from those guys and add one, I have a Norton Motorcycle and would love to put in a norton logo
Merry Xmas Everyone!
JP - I really wish i would have done a logo in mine, is that just a sticker you put down before the top coat?
I might need to get some more top coat from those guys and add one, I have a Norton Motorcycle and would love to put in a norton logo
Daddy_Rabbit
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-JP
Well-known member
Daddy Rabbit & Garage Man1:
The winged wheel speedway logo is a decal I put down before I applied the clear topcoat. I had it made by the same company who make all the decals for the race track. It is 10 feet wide and very high quality material along with the workmanship by the guys who made it. One of the concerns was the compatibility of the top coat and the inks used to make the decal. Some top coats will actually cause the ink to bleed so you need to have the decal laminated when made to insure the top coat does not come in contact with the actual logo ink.
JP
The winged wheel speedway logo is a decal I put down before I applied the clear topcoat. I had it made by the same company who make all the decals for the race track. It is 10 feet wide and very high quality material along with the workmanship by the guys who made it. One of the concerns was the compatibility of the top coat and the inks used to make the decal. Some top coats will actually cause the ink to bleed so you need to have the decal laminated when made to insure the top coat does not come in contact with the actual logo ink.
JP
-jp - I do have a question if you would. Looking at some of your pictures on another of your posts, it appears that it is possible that the chipping is the result of surface failure of the concrete. When pieces came off and when scratches were made, were you able to see if any cement was pulled off with the chips or scratch residue?
By grinding the surface you have removed any surface adhered materials, but, especially depending on grinding coarseness, you may have actually reduced the bonding potential of the coating my making the surface too smooth. Just my thinking. No science behind it.
Any thoughts?
By grinding the surface you have removed any surface adhered materials, but, especially depending on grinding coarseness, you may have actually reduced the bonding potential of the coating my making the surface too smooth. Just my thinking. No science behind it.
Any thoughts?
-JP
Well-known member
I would be glad to answer your questions regarding post made in a different string of messages but I think it would be more appropriate to ask and reply in the other string instead of this post. That way there is some coherent dialogue to relate everything with.
JP
JP