Roll Cab Hardwood Top Bowed

[TXpintail]

Picked up a used Snap On KRL roll cab yesterday. Man, this ones going to need a lot of work, but price was right.

I missed it in my pre-sale inspection, but just realized the hardwood top is bowed pretty bad. Dooh!!!



Snap On wants $500 for a new one. Although I know there are much cheaper options out there, I don’t mind getting a new one from them assuming I can get expect 10 years or so out of it.

For anyone that has a similar Snap On worktop, have you been happy with it? I’m in Houston so longevity in hot and humid environment of particular interest.

Thanks.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

If it were me ..... I would find a butcher block style workbench top and trim to size.
Put some appropriate clear finish on it and Houston-midity won’t be a problem.

 

[RacerX]

It may be a touch too long and has swelled with our recent rain and humidity.
I'd mist it with water, take it off and park something heavy on it until it flattens, then cut a smidge off the end and polyurethane it to seal it once flattened.

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[Kaizen]

It may be a touch too long and has swelled with our recent rain and humidity.
I'd mist it with water, take it off and park something heavy on it until it flattens, then cut a smidge off the end and polyurethane it to seal it once flattened.

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On thinner wood I’ve soaked it and used an iron to flatten it. Might help. Can’t remember which side to put the iron on. Works the same as shrinking metal


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[jjkrjh]

We had a butcher top workbench get wet and it swelled worse than your top. Set it outside in the sun to dry. Came back 3 or 4 hours later to check on it and it was perfectly flat. Years later and still haven't had any issues with it.

 

[toolmiser]

I suggest setting it out in the sun, but check it every hour or so, I can go the other way. A google search might give you more ideas on the procedure.

If you are a woodworker, or have a friend, figure out where most of the warp is, rip in in two or more square the edges, and glue it back together flat. You will probably have to add a board. If I was closer than WI I would help you. (yeah I know talk is cheap).

 

[Wamsutta]

I'd run it through a planer and then revarnish it.

 

[Kevin54]

I'd tell a Snap-On rep that he is a ************* for even suggesting a $500 price on a replacement. Go to the Amish or any woodworker and get a new one made for way less. Just because it's a piece of warped Snap-On wood glued together doesn't make it gold. I'd probably call it burn pile material.

 

[jimreed2160]

We had a butcher top workbench get wet and it swelled worse than your top. Set it outside in the sun to dry. Came back 3 or 4 hours later to check on it and it was perfectly flat. Years later and still haven't had any issues with it.

This ^^^^

First, wet the cupped (short) side so the wood will take up water and swell. Then put it in the sun with the bowed (long) side up. The heat should make it dry out and go back to its original position. This treatment varies based on the wood and the heat of the sun but it goes best if you take it slow. May take a few treatments but the wood should eventually go back to its original shape. Once it is stable, poly both sides and keep it dry. Good luck.

 

[larry_g]

I would not put it direct sun to dry it out. Take it off and set it in the corner till it dries and straightens out. It has a wet side and a dry side causing the bow. If drying it out does not straighten it then make a few cuts along the bow, about two thirds of the way through, and allow it to flex. Add a few screws from the bottom to hold it in position.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[The Cobbler]

run a bunch of saw kerfs thru it to about 3/8" to 1/2" wood left . weight it down to straighten it.
mortise in some steel angle and put some screws in it. drill the holes in the angle so the screws can move

edit. larryg beat me to it

 

[TXpintail]

Great tips guys, I appreciate all of them! Ran out of day light for today, but will go with the cheapest option first - sunlight (thanks jj/tool miser/jim ). We’ll see if I get any traction with that and go from there.

Stay tuned.....


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[6PTsocket]

There are always companies selling butcher block in various sizes and thicknesses. Worst case, you would have to cut one down to your exact dimensions. Coat it with the protectant of your choice and you are good to go. If the sun trick doesn't work there is no way I would get ripped of for a generic item like butcher block by SO.

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[TXpintail]

Well, I hope you guys subscribe to the concept of “there are no dumb questions”, because mine sure was initially on the $500 butcher block.

I’ve learned a lot over the last month and have replaced the lock assemblies, casters, drawer liners and a bunch of slides on my new to me box.

The sun trick that was suggested helped quite a bit
on the work top. Totally serviceable after that.

After getting the rest of the box in such nice shape, it was grinding on me though to just start fresh with a new top.

Picked up a replacement today (under $100 thanks to GJ). Birch butcher block, 1.75 inch thick.

Final question- what would you recommend for a finish? I’m a fan of tung oil, but not sure about that for a max durability type application. I’m in a hot and very humid environment.

Thanks in advance!

 

[turbowoodworker]

Find a cabinet shop local to you with a wide planer or sander. You will lose some thickness but a sander can take the crown off of that easily.

 

[MarvinBerry]

Final question- what would you recommend for a finish? I’m a fan of tung oil, but not sure about that for a max durability type application. I’m in a hot and very humid environment.

Thanks in advance!

Tung oil isn't durable at all, very light & open...needs to be reapplied every so often anyway.

Hit it with minwax or some other type of wipe/brush on poly. At least 2 - 3 decent coats but really as many as you can stand to put on. I'd probably go semigloss or satin. High gloss will show wear pretty quickly.

That'd be the same kind of finish for solid oak kitchen tables & such. Put enough coats on & it'll be near bomb proof unless you spill solvents & eat a hole through.

 

[JR 42]

Your new top came raw, no finish? I'm not much of a woodworker, but I like to sand bare wood to around 320 grit and then apply multiple coats of a mix of equal parts boiled linseed oil, thinner, and gloss or seni- gloss polyurethane. It's easy (wipe on), penetrates somewhat, and can be reapplied down the road.

 

[TXpintail]

Your new top came raw, no finish?.

Yes, the new top I got locally is unfinished.

 

[jsmeece]

Your new top came raw, no finish? I'm not much of a woodworker, but I like to sand bare wood to around 320 grit and then apply multiple coats of a mix of equal parts boiled linseed oil, thinner, and gloss or seni- gloss polyurethane. It's easy (wipe on), penetrates somewhat, and can be reapplied down the road.

Forget the linseed oil and replace that with 100% Tung oil, with equal part mineral spirits (turpentine will also work) and a very good quality poly. Linseed oil will yellow over time, will not penetrate a deep as tung oil will, and tung oil is more water resistant than boiled linseed oil.

If it was me, I would use a two part epoxy resin finish like West System 105 resin, or a top-of-the-line urethane like Arm R Seal Top Coat.

 

[jimreed2160]

I would use rattle can poly. Several coats.

 

[TXpintail]

I’m calling this project “done”.

I thought the Black Knight special edition paint was horrible when I bought this and planned to cover it up with a door front. It’s grown on me though and I think I’m going to leave it as is.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[TXpintail]

 

[JR 42]

Looks great!