Roll up door insulation ideas

[haanzel]

I recently had my metal building/shop sprayfoamed and put in a 5 ton HVAC system installed (which works wonderfully in the Texas summer!). I have 2 large roll up (not roll back) doors, about 14' high and 12' wide doors. The 2 doors do not have insulation on them and at an angle I see gaps where the door meets the vertical rails. I may swap the doors out with roll back doors, but that would be at a future time if no answers are found, but I rather not since it would impede lighting.

A couple questions
1- Does anyone know what products can insulate the doors, which will still allow the doors to roll up?
2- Is there a product to fill in the air gaps? This may be coupled with #1

 

[Bighead38]

Is there anyway you could make something to slide or drop behind it when the door is closed? Something like a heavy curtain or a big sheet of hard insulation you could slide back and forth.

Anything else I can think of would interfere with the door when it rolls up. Unless you could apply some kind of paint or thin foam.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

They make rolls of stuff that's about 1/8" thick that's like the same stuff they use for windshield sunshades. I saw a couple YouTube videos and it seems to block the doors from warming up.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

Another guy used 1/2" r-max foam board used magnets to hold them to the door so then if he needs to open them he just slides the wall aside sort of.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

I've had ac set at 81 or so for the last couple weeks and it seems like it short cycles now. I'd let yours run for a while and see what it does. Once it cools everything down in the shop you may not even need to insulate the doors. Either that or those brush seals I installed really made a difference. Lol at least now it stays off for a good 20 minutes in between cycles.

 

[adsinnott1]

The foil faced, double layer “bubble wrap” made quite a large difference for me. Same stuf Janus uses from the factory. The only reason I ordered it without it was because I was very close on head room. Once it was installed I had enough room to add the insulation. I can attach their PDF instructions if it would help anyone.

 

[adsinnott1]

Oh, and definitely install some side brush seals and some sort of seal to close the gap between the header and the door if you haven't already. Those pesky air leaks will make that AC work much harder.

 

[haanzel]

The foil faced, double layer “bubble wrap” made quite a large difference for me. Same stuf Janus uses from the factory. The only reason I ordered it without it was because I was very close on head room. Once it was installed I had enough room to add the insulation. I can attach their PDF instructions if it would help anyone.

Yes can you attach or link the directions?

You do not have any issues with it rolling up/down?

 

[adsinnott1]

Yes can you attach or link the directions?

You do not have any issues with it rolling up/down?

No issues at all. Just rolls up about 1in taller. Here are their install instructions.

 

[haanzel]

That looks pretty easy. What brand is it or where did you get it?

 

[adsinnott1]

That looks pretty easy. What brand is it or where did you get it?

Got it on amazon. You may be able to get larger rolls for your larger doors. Or just get multiple for what you need. I spent like $50 on double sided tape at Lowes for my 9x7... Then tape all the edges and seams with some foil HVAC ducting tape.

Radiant Barrier Double Bubble Insulation - RadiantGUARD Reflex-AIR (100 sq ft roll | 48-inch X 25-feet) Reflective Weatherproofing Thermal Wrap Foil Insulation for RVs, Windows, Garage Doors, AC Ducts - - Amazon.com

Radiant Barrier Double Bubble Insulation - RadiantGUARD Reflex-AIR (100 sq ft roll | 48-inch X 25-feet) Reflective Weatherproofing Thermal Wrap Foil Insulation for RVs, Windows, Garage Doors, AC Ducts - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[Cementaco1]

Instead of using the Double Bubble foil stuff, I found the same thing but with a foam core center, not the air bubbles.
I am getting the 5mm (just over 3/16") thick stuff and that should go behind the door channels (I have 2 10' x 8' metal roll up doors) well and still let the door open pretty well, and keep the rattling door noise down when its windy out and help it seal better. Right now my doors have those felts pieces from the top to the bottom, I assume those are for rolling up easier, and the foam core foil insulation I am getting is almost the exact thickness of that, so I don't think rolling it up will be any issue. I also have JACOR brush seals on the outside, and those things are EXCELLENT and do a great job.

 

[southern_boy]

Instead of using the Double Bubble foil stuff, I found the same thing but with a foam core center, not the air bubbles.
I am getting the 5mm (just over 3/16") thick stuff and that should go behind the door channels (I have 2 10' x 8' metal roll up doors) well and still let the door open pretty well, and keep the rattling door noise down when its windy out and help it seal better. Right now my doors have those felts pieces from the top to the bottom, I assume those are for rolling up easier, and the foam core foil insulation I am getting is almost the exact thickness of that, so I don't think rolling it up will be any issue. I also have JACOR brush seals on the outside, and those things are EXCELLENT and do a great job.

How did this work out on your doors? Would you happen to have a link to what you used?