Roll up garage door issue

[wnehez]

Hey Everyone, First time posting on here and hoping I can get some ideas to help me out.

I have 3 roll up doors with the vevor automatic openers. The openers work great, but I have to have the open height pretty low, maybe 70" in order to avoid it turning but not closing unraveling the door up top. I end up having to pull it down when I start closing it to kick start it.

It's not getting stuck on anything, just seems like there's not enough weight to let it start sliding down the rail. I'm contemplating adding weights to the bottom on the rail or some sort of spring/bungee cord system.

What are your ideas? Anyone resolve this issue doing something else? Looking to brainstorm! Thanks in advance!

 

[gregs]

I recently bought one of the Vevor openers to install on a 10x10. Researching other similar openers from name brand companies and reading thru there install manuals I found reference to “pinning” the door sheet to the drum. Basically your adding screws to attach the door sheet to the drum just where it vertically leaves the drum to stop “ballooning “ as they call it. Look around at Chamberlain’s manual, there are several others. Also the door spring balance may need adjustment to get it working correctly. And I have also seen where some recommended adding weights to the bottom.

 

[Spacebar]

Weights honestly seems like a pretty good idea. Don’t overdo it obviously, probably just the minimum needed in order to make it work as desired.

 

[wnehez]

I recently bought one of the Vevor openers to install on a 10x10. Researching other similar openers from name brand companies and reading thru there install manuals I found reference to “pinning” the door sheet to the drum. Basically your adding screws to attach the door sheet to the drum just where it vertically leaves the drum to stop “ballooning “ as they call it. Look around at Chamberlain’s manual, there are several others. Also the door spring balance may need adjustment to get it working correctly. And I have also seen where some recommended adding weights to the bottom.

It looks like it's already pinned to the drum, but I can see if I can maybe add another one as long as it doesn't impact the opening at the top. I've tested adding weight in a very primitive fashion, basically holding different weighted sledge hammers on the rail, to see what needs to be added. I'm actually going to try and hook up a diy bungee cord pulley system by pinning a spare piece of rebar along the bottom and connecting the bungee cord at both ends mid way to provide resistance when opening. I'll post some pics along the build to show it off, if it works. Lmao. If it doesn't, I'll have to look into where to buy weights to attach. I'm sure they have them specifically for this type of door. I can't imagine I'm the only one with this issue.

 

[gregs]

It looks like it's already pinned to the drum, but I can see if I can maybe add another one as long as it doesn't impact the opening at the top. I've tested adding weight in a very primitive fashion, basically holding different weighted sledge hammers on the rail, to see what needs to be added. I'm actually going to try and hook up a diy bungee cord pulley system by pinning a spare piece of rebar along the bottom and connecting the bungee cord at both ends mid way to provide resistance when opening. I'll post some pics along the build to show it off, if it works. Lmao. If it doesn't, I'll have to look into where to buy weights to attach. I'm sure they have them specifically for this type of door. I can't imagine I'm the only one with this issue.

Have you checked the door balance? If you disengage the door opener how well does it operate? Is it light or heavy? You might be able to "loosen" the spring tension and make it a little heavier but you have to be careful not to make it to heavy for the operator.

 

[wnehez]

Have you checked the door balance? If you disengage the door opener how well does it operate? Is it light or heavy? You might be able to "loosen" the spring tension and make it a little heavier but you have to be careful not to make it to heavy for the operator

Before I installed the openers, and when the opener is disengaged, the doors would open very easily. They would want to roll up half way by themselves before needing me to lightly push the rest of the way up. The first door I installed it on, the one side wasn't completely tight so when I undid the u bolt holding the shaft, and tension, it spun out. Even with all tension out of it, it still began to balloon up. It has since been re-tensioned and I installed two more openers while keeping factory set tension.

 

[gregs]

Do you have a door seal at the top of the header? I installed my own doors back in the day and added the wide rubber door seal across the top. I did this because the door on the drum gets smaller as it closes and when fully shut it leaves a large gap at the top allowing birds and bugs to get in. I find that my door has a similar issue when I first start to lower it because the seal is tight against it. This is one of the things I need to work out before adding the opener and hoping that I cant just slide the door slightly away from the seal to stop the drag. I would also check for drag where door sheet enters the tracks. Again this can cause a problem as the drum/sheet gets bigger and smaller as it goes up and down, and it doesnt take much to cause these doors to hang up vs a sectional door. One of my door sheets isnt perfectly aligned with the drum and the sheet rolls up more to one side than the other and you can see its tight against one track at the top but even when its down.

If all that is ok, then adding weight is probably the long term easiest solution. The weights I saw where just bar stock bolted to the bottom edge of the door.

 

[adsinnott1]

Spring tension is adjustable, they make weights that go on the bottom rail, pinning is also necessary. I have the below opener:

ATA GDO-6v4 AUTOMATIC GARAGE EASYROLLER DOOR OPENER

ATA's new flagship rolling door opener, the GDO-6 EasyRoller®now features their Series 2 upgrades. Designed to deliver a slim profile, reliability, security and convenience, it is compatible with our Smart Phone Control Kit and Wireless Safety Beams.

www.ada-aust.com

Check out the user manual that talks about the weight bar and pinning. I am pretty sure I set the door spring tension per the Janus door instructions.

https://www.therollerdoordoctor.com.au/wp-content/uploads/ATA-GDO-6V4_V3_Instruction_Manual.pdf

 

[adsinnott1]

Do you have a door seal at the top of the header? I installed my own doors back in the day and added the wide rubber door seal across the top. I did this because the door on the drum gets smaller as it closes and when fully shut it leaves a large gap at the top allowing birds and bugs to get in. I find that my door has a similar issue when I first start to lower it because the seal is tight against it. This is one of the things I need to work out before adding the opener and hoping that I cant just slide the door slightly away from the seal to stop the drag. I would also check for drag where door sheet enters the tracks. Again this can cause a problem as the drum/sheet gets bigger and smaller as it goes up and down, and it doesnt take much to cause these doors to hang up vs a sectional door. One of my door sheets isnt perfectly aligned with the drum and the sheet rolls up more to one side than the other and you can see its tight against one track at the top but even when its down.

If all that is ok, then adding weight is probably the long term easiest solution. The weights I saw where just bar stock bolted to the bottom edge of the door.

I had the same issue. I installed the rubber header seal and in the winter the door would trip the safety force limit when closing because of the seal. In the summer when it was pliable there were no issues. I ended up replacing the upper seal with a brush seal just like the sides. I just special ordered some long brush seals.

 

[wnehez]

Achieved full roll up! Did some mcgruber modifications but it works for all doors. 8x8, 9x8, 10x8. Made my own bungee cords. 1 on each side almost worked but needed 2 for a successful close every time. I know the elasticity won't last forever but that's why I bought 100' of shock cord. Haha. All good and thanks to everyone offering advice. Appreciate it!