Romex nail plates & exceeding code

[gamp945]

Hi all,

I'm about to rough-in electrical for my small workshop.

If I understand correctly, if I use a 1" hole in the middle of the 2x4 studs, then the hole will be spaced 1-1/4" from the edge of the stud and nail plates are not required.

However, even though not a code requirement, nail plates seem like a good idea and exceeding code may be desirable here.

I would rather not use typical nail plates because I am finishing the inside walls with 1/2" Baltic birch plywood and the nail plates may interfere with the plywood laying flat and the panels lining up nicely.

I have considered using Southwire's (formerly Garvin Industries) new "Smart Shield" nail plates that install inside the wall cavity and wouldn't interfere with the plywood installation. They also protect the romex from both sides so future nailing on the exterior walls would not be an issue either.

I'd like to hear opinions on using nail plates even when they aren't required. A good idea, or overkill? It will cost me about $60 between the nail plates and an auger bit, not to mention my time.

 

[Innovate1]

Here's what he is talking about:
https://garvinindustries.com/mng100

Nail plates are good protection against things that could be a big headache. Good for pipes, especially PEX, too. Using them in more places than just the minimum is smart, IMHO. Haven't ever see the smart shield before but I can see them being useful in some places.

 

[Wiz02]

I mortised the nail plates that I installed so that the nail plate surface is flush with the stud edge, same way that you do for a door. I doubt that professionals would spend the time, but now my drywall sits flush on the stud and that makes me happy.

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[Git]

I can appreciate you wanting your walls to be 'flat' because of a traditional nail plate being used - but here is the problem. I can almost guarantee your walls won't be straight/flat with traditional 2x construction lumber. First of all, a 'straight' 2x is almost like finding a unicorn and then once they are installed and the humidity changes they are going to move. Just about all 2x material has a 'crown'.

So if your serious about having straight/flat walls, your going to need to break out some sort motorized hand planer, get about a 8' or longer straight edge/level and buy some drywall shims. (If your not going to do that, I wouldn't bother with the special nail guards)

Internet pic I found showing the shims being used and the high areas that were planed down

 

[gamp945]

That is very good info, Git.

I do have a jack plane as well as an electric planer. I don't have an 8' level, but I do have a Stabilia jamber (6.5'). I'll have to give this some thought.

 

[cmandp]

I use nail plates where necessary of course but as Innovate mentioned I use them where it could be a big (or expensive) headache if you put a screw through a wire. Like the feed for a subpanel using #6 NM-B, it was well over the minimum 1-1/4" but I put nail plates everywhere anyway.

I am going to keep those nail protector sleeves in mind though OP. Seem handy in certain situations.

 

[Git]

6 1/2' would work or you can even do it with strings. You can always wait until your ready to install the ply, do a quick check of the wall and then decide which way to go

 

[gamp945]

cmandp: I agree that the Southwire nail plates look handy. Unfortunately they are not widely available. I can only find them for easy purchase through Home Depot, but must buy a case of 100.

Git: string...why didn't I think of that! The studs on one of my walls are 10ft so that tip will come in handy.

 

[Innovate1]

And if you find a stud that has a severe bow you can cut it in the middle and sister one beside it to get rid of the bad bow. I had to do that on a couple 14' studs for my garage. Made the wall look a LOT better.

 

[cmandp]

I didn't realize that gamp, in that case I might just order a case of them to keep around.

And I second the string suggestion. I did that while reframing a wall for our attic (I moved the door way). I put a string line top and bottom, a few inches from the ceiling and the floor.

I watched this video on string line from the Essential Craftsman awhile ago. So I was actually able to pull those two lines pretty quickly (for me).

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, the "Code" is the minimum acceptable requirement. Much of my own work exceeds code requirements.

 

[yeldogt]

Think you may find that the 1/2 plywood is not flat.

I always spec 5/8 drywall when I build ... w/ glue. This bridges many of the irregularities --- even using manufactured studs.

You may find that some dots of glue and fewer fasteners is the ticket after using a long straight edge over the walls to find and high spots

 

[Chucktin]

We did a 30x40 barn shop with plywood walls. So they were wavy, so what. Had I wanted flat I'd of spent ($$$) for 3/4 ply or tongue and groove shimmed out.

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[Gto7419]

Definitely use nail plates anywhere a wire or pipe goes through a stud. Basic insurance for when you end up hanging something on the wall. I hit a few nail plates while working on my house. Always thankful I put them in.

 

[gamp945]

Thanks for all the replies.

I decided to buy the "smart shield" nail plates today and I'll have them by next weekend. A bit more money, a bit more time - but hey, what's another week when I started the build in summer 2019?!

 

[theoldwizard1]

I can almost guarantee your walls won't be straight/flat with traditional 2x construction lumber. First of all, a 'straight' 2x is almost like finding a unicorn and then once they are installed and the humidity changes they are going to move.

Watching some YouTube video, one builder said if he had a wall that had to be truly flat or was taller than 8' parallel strand lumber for framing. More expensive, but it is flat and guaranteed to stay flat.

I know if I was running and DVW inside of a wall, it would be made from 2x6 !

 

[Jim greengo]

Watching some YouTube video, one builder said if he had a wall that had to be truly flat or was taller than 8' parallel strand lumber for framing. More expensive, but it is flat and guaranteed to stay flat.

I know if I was running and DVW inside of a wall, it would be made from 2x6 !

Dwv.

 

[NockOn]

I used the standard plates even though I didn’t need them by code. I’m using 1/2 drywall and can’t tell they’re there.


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