Roof brackets for a shed roofing

[PassnThru]

My 10X14 shed needs a new roof - it was built close to 30 years ago and still has the original shingles. The idiot that designed it and built it (that would be me of course) put a 12/12 pitch roof on it. I don't even remember how I put the shingles on the first time - I think I just nailed some 2 by boards up somehow. For this round, I decided to be a little more sensible and safe and buy some roof brackets. The come in various angles and I'm not sure what would work the best. They recommend a 45 degree angle for a 12/12 which would basically give me a level platform to stand on. I can also get a 90 degree which would give me more of a backstop rather than standing on it. I see a 60 degree also which would be in between. Which would be more comfortable for the work? Obviously I won't be up there very long but my 60 year old body is less tolerant of being in uncomfortable positions these days.
This is the shed:

 

[Old Moparz]

45 degree brackets should be adequate. They also make adjustable brackets.

 

[dfiler2]

I like the 90's, they can be used on any roof and will hold tools and roofers from sliding off. You are working on your knees most of the time and they provide a comfortable stop for your feet.

 

[cgrutt]

Adjustable or 45s would be my preference. The 60s would tilt you in a bit. Wouldn't be able to stand on the 90s. Also use a harness if you're uncomfortable on the roof.

 

[PassnThru]

I like the 90's, they can be used on any roof and will hold tools and roofers from sliding off. You are working on your knees most of the time and they provide a comfortable stop for your feet.

I was thinking along those lines also. It's not like I can stand straight up and nail shingles on - I'll likely be on my knees or leaning forward at least.

 

[AC-WC]

If you were closer I'd let you borrow my roof jacks. Did you just lean an extension ladder along the roof last time?

 

[readhead]

Do the top half from some toe boards screwed about a third of the way up and then do the lower half from a plank or ladders. You don’t have to buy anything. Or, buy the brackets but I would still do the top and then the bottom.

 

[jonesg]

i'd put a metal roof over those shingles.

 

[PassnThru]

If you were closer I'd let you borrow my roof jacks. Did you just lean an extension ladder along the roof last time?

I have an extension ladder but I remember nailing something to the deck but it wasn't brackets. I assume it was ill advised and less than adequate but yet here I still am.

Do the top half from some toe boards screwed about a third of the way up and then do the lower half from a plank or ladders. You don’t have to buy anything. Or, buy the brackets but I would still do the top and then the bottom.

Never heard of that before - that last row in the middle must be a pain to nail. Having said that though - I've replaced several shingles on this roof in the past few years (on the side not showing - the west facing side) so I actually do have experience with that - same concept.

i'd put a metal roof over those shingles.

If I knew anything about metal I probably would. It would save me the tear off.

 

[CraigStu]

We did the sheathing of my SIL's 10/12 roof w/ an extension ladder only. Worked out great but the ground the ladder sat on was not so nicely level as yours so one of my main contributions was simply sitting on the ladder 2 steps up.

 

[cgrutt]

I wouldn't start in middle of roof never heard of that before, haven't seen it recommended and believe it's probably ill advised but if by some reason you do this layout is a priority and strictly adhering to it is essential for it to have any chance at looking good and being functional. Got to start the middle bottom row on the correct course or risk seams lining up and water leakage, account for any overhang at bottom edge and no deviation on lower half or the two halves won't align properly and it will appear off (at best case) and don't nail the starting course along the nailing strip rather nail high and come back later and nail where it should be after you tuck the top of the lower half under. You'll risk tearing the roofing, esp if you've put any weight on the shingles or applied them while it was warm. Again, I wouldn't do it that way but just some suggestions if you decide to try it.

I'd also recommend keeping your roof racks as level as possible. You'll be more comfortable and arguably safer while walking along the roof. You're not really going to be on your knees as much as leaning against the roof with your feet on the platform. Keeping it level will feel more natural and you'll have less risk of tripping or feeling off balance. On a one story shed I'd try to do the first few courses from the ground while on a ladder if at all possible. You can also use the boards to stack some packs of shingles or keep a bucket of roofing nails if it's reasonably level.

I hate roofing good luck!

 

[mike93lx]

Hire it out. I paid a roofer $400 to do my shed last year (I supplied most of the materials) and it was money well spent. He did it significantly faster than I could have, it kept me from working at height and it looks great. I'm 20 years younger than you but am solidly done with working on a steep roof

 

[MongoTA]

I'm 62. Did A 22 square reroof last year. I use the same adjustable brackets shown in Old Moparz's post. Or similar, the ones I have are Qualcraft. Used them to do the original roof back in '95.

If you want metal roof, it really is pretty straightforward. Two years ago I put a metal roof over about 2/3rds of a 16' x 42' open lattice pool pergola covered with vines. I bought these panels at either the orange or blue box store, don't recall which. They sell the trim pieces as well. The bits and pieces of a metal roof can add up. But the work itself will go more quickly than shingling.

Good luck with the project.

 

[sjvicker]

With a good extension ladder I'd be tempted to lean it up against the roof much like they do when they roof A-frame cabins.

2nd to that would be to set some scaffolding up next to it. The shed is so small you could reach most of the roof from the scaffolding.

 

[Old Moparz]

Brackets are a great investment. Here's a photo from my roof on the back half of the house looking down on the two story garage. Using 2 x 10's to stand on made it much easier & safer to work.

 

[cgrutt]

Here are a few pics from a shed I built for a friend. Did everything up to the brackets from a ladder. The remainder from the plank. IIRC could access everything except the ridge from the planks. The brackets were inexpensive, something like $15 each at one of the big box stores.


First three courses from ladder



Remainder from plank

 

[PassnThru]

I ended up getting the adjustable brackets - today was the day to start. I really underestimated the time it would take to tear off the old shingles. Just quit due to darkness and I still have about 5 rows to get to the top. The roof is 16 feet long and I think there are 22 rows of shingles to the cap. Since the roof is so tall I had to do 8 rows from a ladder before I put the brackets on.
This pic was from 5:30 and I had to shut it down about 6:30. Started around 8:30 this morning.
I am not as young as I used to be. I knew that - but today really drives that home.

 

[cgrutt]

Not sure if you've done other side or not but it's much easier starting from the top and working your way down. Personally I prefer the flat rippers such as those found in Home Depot that get under and pry up a bunch at a time. Good luck.

 

[PassnThru]

It probably would be easier on a flatter roof that you can walk on to start from the top but I can't see that happening here. I went from the bottom up with a square shovel with a short D handle. I removed the first two rows with a pry bar and then used the shovel. It worked really well - I never used the rake you see in the picture. Didn't worry about the nails on the tear off - went back through afterward and pulled them. Much easier when the shingle is gone.

 

[captain14]

PassnThru,

In post #17, are those new shingles already installed on the lower courses?

And your first post shows firewood stacked against the side of the shed? Have you checked for damaged wood siding since it never gets a chance to dry out?

 

[PassnThru]

Yes - those are new shingles.
On the other side, the siding is good. There is air space between the firewood and the side of the shed - the wood rack is free standing. There is a gutter there also. That would also be the roughly east facing side of the side so it rarely gets wind blown rain. The side in the pic above is the west facing side - it gets hit the hardest.

 

[PassnThru]

Side two today. After I removed the gutter I had the idea that the wood rack could function as scaffolding with a little work. So I screwed some boards to the top of it with a little additional support. It was narrow but rock steady and sped things up considerably. It was basically a little higher than if you stood on the next to last step of my eight foot ladder. Only one board there now because once I nailed the roof brackets in I needed one of the boards for that. I attached the roof brackets on the eighth row of shingles on the other side - tenth row on this side - which gives me much better access to the cap. Basically I got to the same place today that took Saturday and Sunday last weekend - saved at least 4 or 5 hours but part of that was the kids getting into the rhythm (first roof for them) and me also since I haven't done this for many years. Tomorrow I can fairly leisurely tear off the cap - run some tar paper over the top - add two rows to each side - and cap it.
I know it looks a little rough right now but it barely hit 70 today - once it gets some sun on it with a warmer day it will settle down. Even after just a week the other side looks much better than it did and it's been cool and mostly cloudy all week.

 

[PassnThru]

Another long day but it's done. We have some warmer sunny days coming up so this side should settle down before winter sets in.
I'll be at least 85 when it needs it again - maybe 90.
I'll hang on to the roof brackets just in case....

 

[captain14]

Looks good. Did you install a ridge vent?

How many bundles of shingles did you use?

 

[PassnThru]

No ridge vent - ventilation is through a few soffit vents and the front and rear gable vents.
I bought 4 square - 12 bundles. I have one unopened bundle left and most of one more.
I probably discarded a dozen or more shingles that had one issue or another. I bought them at a big box and didn't even bother to match lot numbers. It's a shed - wasn't really that important. Just opened multiple bundles at a time and drew from each of them to at least mix the different shades up. In a few years it won't even be noticeable.