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Roof insulation fail (closed cell foam)

dcg9381

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Inspired by reading another "insulation" thread, I wanted to share a word of warning on one design using spray foam. I am (and have been) for the last decade a spray foam fan-boy, as the resulting heating/cooling costs on the structures (3 total so far) that I've done with spray foam have been outstanding.

And given that construction techniques with foam seem to vary by climate, perhaps due to how much humidity control you need. I'm in the south and our AC runs 95% of the time, so we don't have much humidity to deal with. I spray directly to roof deck. There is quite a bit of "disagreement" especially within garage / barndo construction on if you spray to roof deck or steel panel. My vote is "yes".

This structure is up north, it's a 6-car garage with an apartment over-head. It's construction (framing) and workmanship are some of the best I've seen and a lot of money was spent adding R value. The insulation design is closed cell foam, but the design leaves an air barrier between the foam and the roof deck.

I was doing network wiring in this structure and noticed two huge cracks in the foam insulation. On on each end of the structure.. This is the "smaller" of the two insulation issues. You can see daylight (garage below) at the bottom, which definitely "unseals" the envelope. you can see roof deck.

1722979087191.png

Root cause of this is spraying closed cell foam not to the roof deck, but to a layer of what is essentially cardboard. Spray foam is only as good as what you attach it to...
 
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PCustoms

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Root cause of this is spraying closed cell foam not to the roof deck, but to a layer of what is essentially cardboard. Spray foam is only as good as what you attach it to...

Not sure I agree with that....

What caused the foam to crack?

From what I've seen it has a pretty high structural rigidity by itself.
 
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dcg9381

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What caused the foam to crack?

From what I've seen it has a pretty high structural rigidity by itself.

From what I can tell here, the surface that this was sprayed on failed and came off the 2x4 "blocking" built into the roof truss/rafter. 9" of foam was too much (weight?) and it's pulled out in two places - both in the middle of the roof span. But I'm open to other opinions. I can see the staples that hold on the backing have pulled out.

This building is built like a "stick brick" - way overbuilt, no indications of settling or anything else like that.
 

PCustoms

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From what I can tell here, the surface that this was sprayed on failed and came off the 2x4 "blocking" built into the roof truss/rafter. 9" of foam was too much (weight?) and it's pulled out in two places - both in the middle of the roof span. But I'm open to other opinions. I can see the staples that hold on the backing have pulled out.

Possibly, but that's application error then. They should have sprayed a thinner layer, let it firm, then sprayed.

Going too thick can also cause curing issues, one of which could be splitting.

This building is built like a "stick brick" - way overbuilt, no indications of settling or anything else like that.
 
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dcg9381

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Possibly, but that's application error then. They should have sprayed a thinner layer, let it firm, then sprayed.
It didn't fall off the surface it was sprayed too. The surface failed (material that the spay foam attaches to) failed.
 

PCustoms

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It didn't fall off the surface it was sprayed too. The surface failed (material that the spay foam attaches to) failed.
That's what I'm saying...

9" of foam has some weight, and can pull staples/cardboard down.

But spray 4", let it firm up and you could walk on it. Then go back and spray the balance. Plus it will cure correctly
 

PCustoms

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Any chance this was spray before the roof deck was installed?
 

Youngandfree

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That's what I'm saying...

9" of foam has some weight, and can pull staples/cardboard down.

But spray 4", let it firm up and you could walk on it. Then go back and spray the balance. Plus it will cure correctly
It's still going to weigh the same in the end, no?
 

Youngandfree

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I think the analogy is that the first light coat would build some structural strength for the second heavier coat to be supported by
But the substrate and fasteners weren't designed to hold the total weight according to the OP and it pulled away.
 

racecougar

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Is that the only crack? Where did it land relative to the length of the building? Near mid-span? Metal roof or shingle?
 
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dcg9381

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Any chance this was spray before the roof deck was installed?
No. Structure went up first. Roof decked an shingles were up. Roof rafters (trusses) were then blocked for the backing material of the spray foam.
Once cured the foam should be self supporting
Spray foam to a roof deck that fractures and it'll likely fracture the foam too. That's what I believe happened here only the weight of the foam contributed to the failure of the material it was sprayed on. This is why I don't like spraying foam to any surface other than the wall structural material itself... IE moisture barrier, etc.

Is that the only crack? Where did it land relative to the length of the building? Near mid-span? Metal roof or shingle?
There are two. Both are mid point (about middle of the structure). Mid span. Traditional composite shingle. The "severe" weather here is cold, not heat. I'll see if I can get a picture of the other crack when I'm in the attic again. I'm going to fill both cracks all the way to roof deck.

Building is built (for a stick structure) very very well, minimum 2x6 construction, zip-R sheeting. Framing was excellent (at least compared to the standards I see in the south). Engineered trusses, engineered foundation. No indications of any settling or structural issues anywhere else. High level of drywall finish, if the structure is sagging, it'd show up.
 
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skippydoo

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Unfortunately this was my mess and still is after being removed and resprayed. I wanted the whole building wrapped with tyvek, unfortunately my builder mess up and forgot to do the roof. So he got similar product that was 4ft wide and stapled it to the trusses . Fast forward 3 months and thats what the pictures show. I called the company who sprayed it ( 3" ceiling, 2 in walls closed cell) and they looked at it and said they would redo it. They said it would take 4 hours to remove all the foam and then respray. I was with them for the first hour and went to work. I came home 12 hours later and they were half way thru respraying . The temp then was about 30 outside and 60 inside. Now it was dripping wet from the roof metal. I asked if thats a problem, was told no, Once all done it was after midnight. I also asked why is the new foam different color, oh it's open cell. I got the short end of the stick. Fast forward to the following winter and the first snowfall. I noticed around 20 spots of melted snow. I pulled a ceiling panel down to find the foam had gaps in it and small holes in it from what looked like either expansion or shrinkage when applied. I explained all this to a builder and he said I bet your going to have alot of mold and your roof is going to rust thru. The spray foam company I used said to me once completed the 2nd time, don't ever call me again and blamed me for telling him how to spray the ceiling , which I never did. I'm saving to rip the roof off along with the foam , respray and new roof metal.
 

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dcg9381

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Sprayed direct to the roof deck? Steel?
No, the "builder" of this house decided that he wanted an "air gap" between the roof deck and foam insulation. This may be a valid thing up north, don't know - but it's not how we do it in the south.

Here is a photo of the same failure directly on the other side of the house.

1723559636069.png

And a close up of what failed:
1723559729856.png
 
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dcg9381

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Here is my repair (pass 1)... I'd recommend wearing a tyvex suit. I'm still cleaning some of this out of my hair...


1723559807449.png
 

PCustoms

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No, the "builder" of this house decided that he wanted an "air gap" between the roof deck and foam insulation. This may be a valid thing up north, don't know - but it's not how we do it in the south.

Not sure I've ever seen an air gap between deck and foam up here, seems odd but may be a new way to combat the issues that have started with it sprayed direct to the deck.

Here is a photo of the same failure directly on the other side of the house.

Very odd that that happened on opposite sides. Really makes me think the building has some movement
 
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dcg9381

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Very odd that that happened on opposite sides. Really makes me think the building has some movement
Certainly all stick frame structures are subject to movement, the surface that the foam was sprayed on was definitely non-structural and I can see the failure.

Structure has a high level of drywall finish, not a single crack in the drywall (some are generally expected as the house settles).

Dunno....
 
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PCustoms

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Certainly all stick frame structures are subject to movement, the surface that the foam was sprayed on was definitely non-structural..

Structure has a high level of drywall finish, not a single crack in the drywall (some are generally expected as the house settles).

Dunno....
Well I said it before, that foam should easily be self supporting once cured. That shear fracture looks like something else is going on.
 

jollygreengiant

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I'm no structural or foam expert, but looking at those pics it almost looks like there is something pulling on that foam perpendicular to the direction of the crack? If it was from the weight of the foam I wouldn't think it would make such a nice linear crack? But like I said I'm no expert in this, I could be way off.
 

finn

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Not sure I've ever seen an air gap between deck and foam up here, seems odd but may be a new way to combat the issues that have started with it sprayed direct to the deck.



Very odd that that happened on opposite sides. Really makes me think the building has some movement
When we put an addition on our house about eight years ago, both the GM and the spray foam company recommended an air gap instead of a “ hot deck”.

No issues to date with the air gap. It’s just an additional layer of osb spaced off the deck about 1 1/2”, and vented to both the soffit and ridge vents.
 

PCustoms

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When we put an addition on our house about eight years ago, both the GM and the spray foam company recommended an air gap instead of a “ hot deck”.

No issues to date with the air gap. It’s just an additional layer of osb spaced off the deck about 1 1/2”, and vented to both the soffit and ridge vents.
Funny, Dad sent me a pic of a giant hornet nest yesterday and i noticed the soffit vent. I bet the roof is sprayed the same way you described, I had just forgotten about it
 
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dcg9381

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It’s just an additional layer of osb spaced off the deck about 1 1/2”, and vented to both the soffit and ridge vents.
If they'd used OSB this wouldn't have happened. Course, this structure was built in covid and just getting OSB (at above $60/sheet) was a problem, so maybe that's root cause. Patched up nicely though..
 
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