Roof modification

[Iroc-Z]

I searched and had no luck so here is my story.

I have a 25X25 attached garage on my house. I have 10ft garage ceiling. I would like to add a lift I just purchased from my work. Its a 12ft twin post. My house was built in 1965 so the joists are not like the ones in new houses today. My question is. Could I vault the while keeping the original joists? The reason I want to vault the ceiling is so the garage door can follow the ceiling and not be in the way. I will try and get some pics up this weekend of what my joists look like.
Kevin

 

[His200HerScout]

and it sounds like a problem for an engineer, but pics would certainly help

it probably doesn't look like today's design because the garage uses rafters and today trusses are normally used.

you want your garage door, when open, to follow the roof/vault line, not be level? doesn't sound safe. sounds the door could slam down if the lifter fails. but maybe i'm not following you.

 

[BooUrns!]

Unfortunately this doesn't sound like DIY work you can do by yourself. The problem is not in performing the work but knowing what you're doing.

Contact either a structural engineer or a residential architect who can examine the existing structure and recommend structurally safe modification options. If you contact a renovation company, make sure their proposed solution will pass a design review.

I wouldn't set a garage door at an angle either. I would look into raising the rafter collars (except where the door tracks are located). It's too big of a job for a novice. You need a consultant of some kind.

 

[nate379]

You can run the door at an angle. It's not common, but it's doable for sure.

I don't see why you couldn't set up a vaulted ceiling. I'd do it.

 

[Iroc-Z]

Well I have been talking to a framing guy I know and he doesn't make it sound like a bad idea.
Apparently with rafter set ups the supports going from wall to wall is just support to hold the walls together.
He suggested running a 2x12 from side to side. then running the vaulted 2x4s to it.
As for running the garage door with the vault. The springs would be upgraded for the extra strain. I am sorry pics this weekend for sure.

 

[Iroc-Z]

Pics of how I want to run the garage door.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7074&d=1153688405

 

[KMR Construction]

If your house has a stick framed roof then you can add a ridge beam and then remove the coller ties. The beam would have to be engeneered. Not terribly difficult but I do this every day.

 

[uponroof]

What KMR is saying by 'stick framed' is if you have roof rafters rather than pre engineered trusses.

Trusses are combined 2x4 and 2x6 lumber constructed in zig zag like connected patterns to provide additional span strength for roofs. You can't screw around with trusses by cutting or altering them. It's against all building codes and more importantly against all common sense. If you cut a truss only 'a little bit' anywhere in it's design you compromise and ruin the entire truss.

Rafters, which are the other method of supporting roofs, are much more vanilla in that you can cut and brace as needed for installing skylights, dormers, etc. So if you have a stick framed (rafter supported) roof you can modify the design. If you have trusses you can't.

Collar ties are the horizontal braces that run from one side of the roof slope to the other, connecting the rafters a few feet down from the ridge. They provide stiffening and racking while preventing bowing and spreading (rolling/twisting) in the rafters.

Adding a pre engineed lam (laminated) beam at the ridge is the key to vaulting the ceiling. It will give you something to attach the added weight of the pitched ceiling joists and drywall. You have to be sure that the ends of the lam beam are perched on something capable of 'load bearing'. In other words it should be a wall which is supported and uninterrupted to the ground.

If you do this, and while you have this ceiling opened up, be sure to chase all the wiring and lighting (etc) you might ever need. I'd also consider applying maximum insulation (SPF) while you have the chance. If you add skylights you might even get the wife to buy into it. LOL

Without going into anything more, you should first provide pictures of the attic space above the garage ceiling. Or better yet, talk to a carpenter or roofer in your neighborhood who can actually look at the attic space with you and offer ideas.

Good luck.

 

[Identaltech]

Iroc as far as doors following the roof line thats no problem every one of our garage door at our warehouse go up at an angle.
the door springs hold the door up not the the door opener.
as far as vaulting the ceiling we would have to see pic of the attic.
I plan on removing he ceiling joist and moving them half way up as collar ties.
figure I will have 12 foot for the middle part of the garage and at the ends
9foot 6 in.
my thought is the hood of the car is 20 in shorter than the roof.
the farther away from the wall the more clearance I will have.
it will be a tight fit but I have to work with what I have.

 

[Iroc-Z]

If your house has a stick framed roof then you can add a ridge beam and then remove the coller ties. The beam would have to be engeneered. Not terribly difficult but I do this every day.

Thats what I was thinking. And yes my garage/rambler house is a stick frame. There is just one problem I didn't think about. The house has a Hipped roof rambler. But enough talk. I need pics to show you guys. Will do this weekend when I go out to the house.

 

[Iroc-Z]

Iroc as far as doors following the roof line thats no problem every one of our garage door at our warehouse go up at an angle.
the door springs hold the door up not the the door opener.
as far as vaulting the ceiling we would have to see pic of the attic.
I plan on removing he ceiling joist and moving them half way up as collar ties.
figure I will have 12 foot for the middle part of the garage and at the ends
9foot 6 in.
my thought is the hood of the car is 20 in shorter than the roof.
the farther away from the wall the more clearance I will have.
it will be a tight fit but I have to work with what I have.

I am thinking the same thing. This is not my ideal set up but it will have to hold me for a few years till we can build the 30x40 garage I have planned. I JUST CANT LIVE WITHOUT A WORK SHOP!!!!! And I got the hoist at a screaming deal from work so I want to get it up.