Roof sheathing Tricks?

[Kaizen]

This is really kicking my a$$. Installing 5/8 t&g zip panels on my garage trusses. Everything is bearable except the tongue and groove have such tight tolerances that just sliding them in is not working. I'm leaving the previous panels half loose so deflection is not the issue. I've resulted to putting 2x4 on the lower part and just attaching to the panel and hammering the 2x to get the panel in place. any tips or tricks from anyone on this besides what I'm doing? even with the way I'm doing it I still have to beat it pretty well. thought of sanding the tongue but its so small not sure if that would work....and I have 33 more to go. The panels have been on site for 5 months but covered so I don't think swelling is an issue....besides they are waterproof for 6 months.

 

[tjdux]

Test fit a tounge and groove joint on the ground and see if they fit easily then. That may narrow the problem down some.

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[Kaizen]

Test fit a tounge and groove joint on the ground and see if they fit easily then. That may narrow the problem down some.

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I did. It's tight. Does not slip in like other t&g I have used. Does soaping it on a roof seem like a horrible idea? Wish I had a shoulder plane in my arsenal.


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[p_mori7]

The panels have been on site for 5 months but covered so I don't think swelling is an issue....besides they are waterproof for 6 months.

Well there's your problem right there.

I've never used T&G on a roof. But I do use the little H clips.

~Phil.

 

[tjdux]

shoulder planes can sure be had. Ive got a little one and rarely use it butbim sure glad its there when I do.

A good setup with a decent plunge router would work equally well.

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[Chris705]

I always have to use a scrap 6' long 2x and sledge hammer to bring the t&g sheathing together. Not sure they would ever just slip without heavy persuasion.

 

[Kaizen]

Well there's your problem right there.



I've never used T&G on a roof. But I do use the little H clips.



~Phil.

Zip panels are waterproof supposedly for awhile. Actually think the glue or whatever they use is making this tight. I ordered these thinking they would be better then the clips. Seriously thinking of cutting off the tongue and getting some clips.


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[Kaizen]

shoulder planes can sure be had. Ive got a little one and rarely use it butbim sure glad its there when I do.

A good setup with a decent plunge router would work equally well.

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I will have to do the router or something similar. Bet it only needs a 64th off one side. Once set up it sure would be easier then fighting up on the roof


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[The Cobbler]

I had t&g subfloor fir ply that I got on the cheap . used it on the roof of my garage, the framers cut off the tongue and used clips. I didn't expect them to fight with getting it together considering the effort needed while laying on a floor , never mind on a roof

 

[Kaizen]

I always have to use a scrap 6' long 2x and sledge hammer to bring the t&g sheathing together. Not sure they would ever just slip without heavy persuasion.

Because these are not real plywood the Edges will deform with any hammering on them.


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[rburke65]

How about some bar soap....or paste wax?

 

[Kaizen]

How about some bar soap....or paste wax?

Now there is an idea. Both more solid then dish soap. Thanks for the idea


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[rayra]

bar soap or candle wax. Lube them up on the ground. Keep using the 2x4 / hammer. With a little practice you'll form a groove in the bar soap, rubbing it on the tongue. With a little wrist action / rotation of the soap you can grease both sides of the tongue. Should help a great deal.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Another way would be to attach two guide blocks to the base of a trim router, leaving a gap for the thickness of the material. Run the router down the groove to widen a bit. If engineered properly one block could be big or tall enough to allow this to be done with the sheets stacked flat, while acting as a skid guide.

A carbide cutter would be better as the material will dull most bits quickly.

 

[adam0872]

Well there's your problem right there.

I've never used T&G on a roof. But I do use the little H clips.

~Phil.

Get you some little h clips best way to do roof nuff said

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

In all my years framing, I've never used T&G on a roof, but always on subfloors. We always used 2 men, one standing on the previous sheet edge (groove) to help start the new sheet as the sheets are never totally flat. Always drive on the groove edge, using an 8' 2x and a hand sledge. It's a real ***** to try to do it with one man, although it can be done by making a 'one man basher'...use a 6' 4x6 flat and nail a 2x4 handle, sloped to a comfortable handle height for you to pull on while standing on the previous sheet edge. It's best to rip the 2x4 edge on the angle you want and nail through into the 4x6. You will also need the brace well between the two. I liked to use a triangular shaped piece of plywood attached to both. This works good on floors, but I think it would wear you out trying it on a roof. Hell, just get a buddy to give you a hand!

 

[ForceFed70]

I've got to agree. 5/8 T&G on the roof is a crazy decision. That's way overkill.

Much better off installing a better roofing system than putting all of that money and effort into the roof sheathing.

Save that stuff for what it was designed for - subflooring.

 

[CNGsaves]

I'd use combination of two things:
. . . a) wax or soap on sheeting material
. . . b) build custom "persuasion" blocks to pound against T&G sheeting
(router or dado cut edge so it goes into whatever groove . . .
. . . . . . . . i.e. . . . one pound block with female . . . one with male)

 

[bczygan]

You don't want the tongue and groove hammered completely home. Leave space for expansion.

Bill

 

[Kaizen]

You don't want the tongue and groove hammered completely home. Leave space for expansion.

Bill

Yup this product has a longer tongue so it spaces itself


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[Kaizen]

I've got to agree. 5/8 T&G on the roof is a crazy decision. That's way overkill.



Much better off installing a better roofing system than putting all of that money and effort into the roof sheathing.



Save that stuff for what it was designed for - subflooring.

?? This is exactly what zip panels are for. 5/8 osb has a thirty inch span rating if I remember. So not much overkill for two foot span. Maybe different as we have snow loads


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[Kaizen]

I'd use combination of two things:
. . . a) wax or soap on sheeting material
. . . b) build custom "persuasion" blocks to pound against T&G sheeting
(router or dado cut edge so it goes into whatever groove . . .
. . . . . . . . i.e. . . . one pound block with female . . . one with male)

Put up another four today before I got jello legs. For the rest of this side I'm using a ******* file in both sides of the tongue and soaping it. I screw through it attaching a 2x4x8 and hammer it. Although not slipping in from pressure it goes ok with the hammer. Then after in place I move the screws to go into the framing so the 2x then remains for safety things


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[TommyK]

Use a scrap piece of plywood with the groove or tongue (which ever you need depending on how the sheet is oriented) as a driver block. Smash liberally with BFH. You can screw it to a 2x block for more beef for the BFH. This way you can hit hard and not damage the edge.

If you are working alone and having trouble getting the tongue started, you can screw a piece of 3/4 down on the receiving sheet which will guide the joints together. Hope that makes sense.

 

[ForceFed70]

?? This is exactly what zip panels are for. 5/8 osb has a thirty inch span rating if I remember. So not much overkill for two foot span. Maybe different as we have snow loads

It still sounds like more trouble than it's worth.

Felt paper is quick and easy. Especially if you still need to tape all of the joints anyway.

I'm in Canada with plenty of snowload - 7/16" with H clips is enough for 24" OC. Not sure what 30" would require.

 

[Kaizen]

Use a scrap piece of plywood with the groove or tongue (which ever you need depending on how the sheet is oriented) as a driver block. Smash liberally with BFH. You can screw it to a 2x block for more beef for the BFH. This way you can hit hard and not damage the edge.

If you are working alone and having trouble getting the tongue started, you can screw a piece of 3/4 down on the receiving sheet which will guide the joints together. Hope that makes sense.

Yes I understand. I use that a lot to line things up. I would have to use solid wood that I cut to fit. This stuff disintegrates when hit like that. Just went and got h clips. Going to cut the tongue off with my multitool and call it a day.
Thanks for all the suggestions.




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[BIG-BRO]

Thanks for posting this topic ! I will be using the 5/8" Zip on roof soon (on 24" center trusses here in New Hampshire) and was planning on H-clips anyway. I "assumed" the 5/8" Zip would be "T-T" (tongue-tongue) the same as the 1/2" Zip wall-sheathing, but I see on their website that the 5/8" comes either T-T or T-G. I'll definitely ask when I order it.

 

[Kaizen]

Thanks for posting this topic ! I will be using the 5/8" Zip on roof soon (on 24" center trusses here in New Hampshire) and was planning on H-clips anyway. I "assumed" the 5/8" Zip would be "T-T" (tongue-tongue) the same as the 1/2" Zip wall-sheathing, but I see on their website that the 5/8" comes either T-T or T-G. I'll definitely ask when I order it.

Home Depot sells the one you want with h clips. Lowes sold the one I got. Zip really is a great product making an air tight envelope.



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[ForceFed70]

Home Depot sells the one you want with h clips. Lowes sold the one I got. Zip really is a great product making an air tight envelope.

What's the purpose for the roof tho? Isn't your attic purposely vented and not supposed to be air tight? Or does the envelope extend into attic space with this system? If so - how is attic heat vented/controlled?

 

[Kaizen]

What's the purpose for the roof tho? Isn't your attic purposely vented and not supposed to be air tight? Or does the envelope extend into attic space with this system? If so - how is attic heat vented/controlled?

For me I chose it so I could have waterproof as I go. I knew I would be taking awhile to build solo so didn't want to have warping sheathing. Initially I am not insulating anything so it will all be sealed. So zero air movement will be beneficial to heat while I'm out there. After I insulate the attic area i will cut in soffit vents


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[Kaizen]

I'm happy to see the pro's have these problems too. I feel vindicated! They should be reading GJ

btw this is a good build. They call it the Church of Diresta due to its look.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Cut a piece a few inches wide off the edges of some scrap. Nice to have one with a tongue and one with a groove. Any pounding put that in place and hit it with a hammer. (You can also use these to straighten a tongue or groove.

Also be careful handling the sheets. Don't damage the edges.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My son had his roof completely re-decked a few years back. He had to pay EXTRA to upgrade from 7/16" OSB to 1/2" OSB. 5/8" Zip sound like way overkill.

 

[Kaizen]

My son had his roof completely re-decked a few years back. He had to pay EXTRA to upgrade from 7/16" OSB to 1/2" OSB. 5/8" Zip sound like way overkill.

Yea someone said that earlier. As I'm not a roofer and I did this alone I went with the standard I see being used around here. It allowed me to get the whole side of the roof sheathed with only enough hand nails to hold the trusses in place. Then took a few hours nailing it all off. It worked out well for my metal roof install as well. No flexing under my heavy weight and with the tape on the seams it kept the inside dry.


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