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Roof sheathing

Kapt

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2005
Messages
168
Location
Maryland
I finally finished the framing except for the roof sheathing. I ordered 1/2 cdx plywood and I got 15/32, not quite 1/2 inch. I'm using sheathing clips and dont know which ones to use. They come in 1/2 inch and 7/16 sizes. The 1/2 seem too large, they move around alot and the 7/16 are very tight.

Also, I read somewhere to make sure the sheathing is intalled correct side out. I always assumed you put the c side out and the d side in. Am I correct with my logic?
 
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boiler7904

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
3,414
Location
NW IN
You are correct, C side out, D side in for CDX plywood. Don't know what to say about the clips. My first thought is to use the 1/2".
 

customperformance

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
70
Location
Iowa
All lumber and sheating is slightly undersized. You cant buy 3/8 1/2 3/4 it is going to be undersized about a 1/32. You would use the 1/2 " clips as the 15/32 is only a 1/32 under a 1/2"
 

Paradise Ridge

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Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
90
Location
North Idaho
Plywood, osb, and other sheetgoods are manufactured in metric to be easier to market in our global economy. It is still sheared here in the US to our dimensions (4x8, etc) but is shipped both here and abroad in much larger sheets to facilitate ease in transportation.

Use the 1/2 clips.

Scott
 
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brownbagg

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Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
first I would never use 1/2 for roof I alway go 5/8 or 3/4. once it down you cant replace so spend a little extra money. make sure you nail to the schedule. 8 penny every 4 inches. use the clips. d side goes down because its stamp and the inspector can read it wiyhout climbing.
 

DIGGER_DAVE

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
124
Location
Calgary AB Canada
brownbagg said:
first I would never use 1/2 for roof I alway go 5/8 or 3/4. once it down you cant replace so spend a little extra money. make sure you nail to the schedule. 8 penny every 4 inches. use the clips. d side goes down because its stamp and the inspector can read it wiyhout climbing.

YES!
Use thicker than 1/2 inch thick roof sheathing; especially if the roof rafters are on 24 inch centers or greater.

If you are in "snow country"; the snow load will start 1/2 inch sheathing to sag between the rafters over time making the roof "wavey."
(I used 3/4 inch; extra cost was about 20%, but the roof has stayed "dead flat" for over 20 years )

Check with your LOCAL building code to see what thickness is RECOMENDED.
 

JAH70

New member
Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Messages
1
Kapt said:
I finally finished the framing except for the roof sheathing. I ordered 1/2 cdx plywood and I got 15/32, not quite 1/2 inch. I'm using sheathing clips and dont know which ones to use. They come in 1/2 inch and 7/16 sizes. The 1/2 seem too large, they move around alot and the 7/16 are very tight.

Also, I read somewhere to make sure the sheathing is intalled correct side out. I always assumed you put the c side out and the d side in. Am I correct with my logic?


You can get h-clips in 15/32". Any good lumberyard should have them.
I would not try to use 7/16" or 1/2". If yor trusses or rafters are 24" on
center, I prefer 5/8" plywood or osb. I use osb for finished garages, but if
it's an unfinished floor (dirt or stone) I would use plywood as osb is more prone to moisture absorption in that situation. Many people use 1/2" (15/32")
plywood on 24" centers without problems,but I would use 5/8". If you have
16" centers, 1/2" plywood is fine. Use 4-ply in either case,not 3-ply.
A secondary benefit of using clips is that it forces you to space the panels properly. Do not **** them tightly together. Space them about 1/8" on the
ends as well. "c" side and "d" sides usually look about the same to me.
Use the side that has the fewest open knots. Hope this helps.
John
 
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