Roof truss questions

[davidfite1978]

Here's another question.... if it's too tight for me to fit a 2x12x24 up onto the top plate, could I use hangers and just hang it on the top 12 inches of the studs/plate? Or maybe notch a couple inches and let the notch catch the top plate and use the hanger on the stud too? Not sure if that even makes sense, just thinking out loud.

Here's a page on another forum that has a picture in one of the posts that pretty much shows what I'm thinking.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/garage-ceiling-joist-end-cut-178519/index2/

 

[Cougar]

Another option is the I joists (search menards) they are about 35$ a piece. They could be placed to create a ceiling, and they could support the roof a bit more. (i doubt the 2x4 rafters at 2'-0" are structurally adequate). Some connection details would need to be figured out.

Like this?

 

[MN4x4]

Here's another question.... if it's too tight for me to fit a 2x12x24 up onto the top plate, could I use hangers and just hang it on the top 12 inches of the studs/plate? Or maybe notch a couple inches and let the notch catch the top plate and use the hanger on the stud too? Not sure if that even makes sense, just thinking out loud.

Here's a page on another forum that has a picture in one of the posts that pretty much shows what I'm thinking.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/garage-ceiling-joist-end-cut-178519/index2/

If you have the headroom, yes you could hang them from the top plate of the side walls. If you use 2x12 lumber and not TJI's you could probably make the top of the 2x12's nearly even with the top of the bottom chord of your 'truss'. You could also use a jack from below to push up on the bottom of your existing 'truss' to get it more or less level before you attach it to the 2x12.

I'm betting, though, that by the time you buy the 2x12's and the hangers and the fasteners, and STILL not pay yourself anything for your time, that you'll have more money in it than just buying some manufactured trusses. Sorry to keep bursting your bubble...

 

[kenfath]

Maybe I can answer some of your questions and add my 2.5-cents.

1.does anyone know what the name of this system is called?

A. It is a simple, stick built, triangular roof system. Normally the roof system consists of a ridge board, rafters, and ceiling joists.

Discussion: Reportedly a ridge board is not present. (I can't tell from the photos.) Presume the rafters are secured to each other in some manner where they **** at the peak. The 23/32nds" roofing (when well nailed) will prevent the rafters from deflecting. The bottom horizontal member, referred to as a "ceiling joist" is, from what I was taught, a "span". What's the difference? A ceiling joist is intended to support a ceiling, a span is intended to keep the opposite walls parallel. Usually ceiling joists are on 16 or 24" centers, spans of 48" centers or more are common. The vertical boards serve as a support to the spans and is provided to keep the span horizontal and keep it from sagging. Ideally the span would be one piece. Of concern is the fact it consists of three pieces that are not adequately connected or joined.

Corrective measures could include the sistering a 2x12 x width of garage as has been suggested. Additionally, install blocking between spans/ceiling joists. Make certain the walls are parallel when working on the spans. The rafters could be reinforced near the peak by nailing a 2x6 on the inside of the rafters parallel to the ridge, for the full length/width of the garage IF there is any concern about them.

2.can I safely insulate the rafters?

A. Yes after the proposed modifications are completed.

3.can I safely insulate the ceiling joists?

A. Yes, after the proposed modifications are completed.

4.can I safely add a drywall ceiling or drop ceiling?

A. Yes, after the proposed modifications are completed.

5.can I safely add any storage?

A. Good question! This is where the span tables need to be consulted. My recent build has No. 1 2x12's on 12" centers for a 22' span specified. It also has a vertical 2x4 support located about six feet from the outside wall supporting the rafters. With all of that lumber the floor loading is still limited per the engineers drawing.

6.any other thoughts?

A. Yes, I wish you good luck! And, the customary disclaimers apply.

 

[BearsFan315]

Yeah I understand that dilemma, I am debating whether to tear down and build a NEW one where the existing one sits or to try and work with what I got. I have more issues then just the truss !!

is a slab, the drive drains towards the garage, as well as being poor at grade & to grading away from the garage, so when it rains it floods. last year I put in a French drain around the front and that helped a ton. now only get water in when it downpours for a duration. there is NO block around the border so the wood is on the slab, and my understanding is that it had to be replaced years back due to ROT !!

 

[sands35]

Wood on slab will only rot if there is water. It depends on how high the slab grade is over the surrounding soil. It can be ameliorated with short retaining wall around the perimeter to lower the ground level under the slab grade.

As for the driveway slope, some sort of linear drain at the garage apron to carry water away and into the french drain system.

http://www.vision-plastics.com/strongwell.htm

Is there garage insured?

Garage falls down during a storm - oh, nuts. Get a new one from insurance less deductible.