Roof truss - Raised section

[redux2redux]

I am looking at buying a house that has a nice shop on the property, other than the ceiling is too low for my RV.

The shop is 40x40 but the bottom of the trusses are just under 10'. I need at least 11' to get my RV in it.

What is the reality of adding support beams in the middle and notching one side? Or is this something that the engineer is going to laugh me out of their office?

I am looking to go from the image on the left to something like the right...

Thanks for any input!

 

[u2slow]

I'm certainly no expert... but I did jack up my 20x20 carport almost 2' using nothing more than a hydraulic jack and scraps of lumber.

I think I'd look at jacking up the entire roof that little bit extra.

 

[firebirdparts]

If it's 6/12 pitch (or whatever, something steeper) it'll be a little easier to do than a 4/12. But yes, it's doable with enough strong material. 40 feet is a long way, so they'll have to sharpen those pencils to do a clear span.

If you want to drop posts down, like what you drew, then it becomes trivial in practice, but illegal due to the lack of a foundation. FWIW. That is what they will really complain about. You can cut a hole in the slab and put a foundation under it if your AHJ cares what you're doing. They may not.

 

[jetnow1]

I'm certainly no expert... but I did jack up my 20x20 carport almost 2' using nothing more than a hydraulic jack and scraps of lumber.

I think I'd look at jacking up the entire roof that little bit extra.

jacking the roof and filling in the gap will make a hinge in the wall, better to lift the top plates and install longer studs sistered to the existing studs. Much stronger. The other option would be to lift the entire building and install block
under it, 1 course is 8 inches, 2 would be 16 inches. etc.

 

[jbwilkins]

The challenge you have is your trusses are designed for a clear span, just adding a support post in a 'random' location may not work. E.G. the truss isn't designed to support a bearing point mid span....

I'm not saying it can't be done, but you're going to need to involve an engineer and, if possible, get hold of the original designs....

If you're in a location that has inspections, you're most likely going to have to have the engineer's drawings this to make the changes and get it approved......if no inspections, it would just be a good practice.........

 

[CraigStu]

You didn't say if there is a concrete floor there or not. If there is, rather than just new vertical beams, one per truss, you could build a wall. This way the force is spread out along the bottom plates (maybe even double plates) rather than concentrated at the bottom of each post. I am not an engineer either but I could see building two walls where your vertical posts are. The walls can have walk through openings in them as long as they are built correctly. The bearing walls in our basement are built with 2x6s.

 

[mike93lx]

Yes, an engineer can help. You with options. If your shops needs a new roof, this would be a good opportunity to do that along with the right trusses

 

[redux2redux]

Wow!

Thank you all for your responses!

This gives me enough information if I decide to proceed with a engineer.

 

[VM Builders]

Call a local contractor or a local engineer. I'm sure it can be done. You would just need to verify with structural engineer.

 

[KenC]

I would make an accurate drawing of your current trusses and make note of any grade stamps on the lumber.

Take that info to a truss manufacturer. Ask if they can be modified in place to a scissor truss with enough headroom for your application. The inhouse engineer will be much cheaper than an engineering firm. And, that is what those guys do all day everyday so it's not a weird, on-off task for them.

 

[rayra]

talk to an architect / engineer. Pic or diagram your existing trusses and provide all the load calculation data you can. It OUGHT to be possible to modify your existing trusses in place by sistering lumber to them, in a manner that will allow you to raise the bottom of the truss to clear.

Your other option is raise the whole building. putting in a new stuff wall at the bottom 18-24". But that screws up all your doors too, plus the jacking, lift beam etc.

Maybe an attached lean-to for the RV?