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Roofing question -- need some advice

White Shadow

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I just finished building a new house with a 3-car garage that I will take many, many ideas that I've seen on this forum. In the meantime, I bit the bullet and had a shed company come out and stick build a 10 x 16 shed in my back yard. I'm happy overall with the construction and the craftsmanship of the shed. It really seems well built. But here's the thing--it has a gambrel roof with black shingles and they installed the shingles in such a way that there's a row of nail heads visible along the top of the lower slope edge (for lack of a better word) and it really looks bad with the shiny galvanized roofing nails on the black shingles. Of course none of their display sheds in their yard have the exposed nail heads.

Does anyone know if there is a better way to shingle that style roof than what the shed builders did? The owner of the shed company told me that they used staples in the past, but recently switched over to roofing nails and that's the way they do it now. He claims that nobody complains about the exposed nail heads. Personally, I think it's an eye sore, but it's not the end of the world I suppose. I don't know enough about roofing to know if there's a better way to do it. Ideas? Suggestions?

The pictures aren't great, but they should give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
 

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The Cobbler

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I have a similar roof on my shed, shingled the lower section, installed drip edge and then shingled the upper section , look in my Garage build thread linked at the bottom of the post & you will see pics of the shed
 

teal95

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I adjusted the spacing of the shingles on mine so that the nails were just above the top edge of the break. That way only 1 row of shingles had to fold over the break.
 

D45

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I did mine similar to what you have pictures

I went back over the nail heads, with brown silicon (to match brown shingles)
 

Daedalus

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Don't worry, they won't be shiny for very long. :wtf:

I adjusted the spacing of the shingles on mine so that the nails were just above the top edge of the break. That way only 1 row of shingles had to fold over the break.
^This is preferred, though there may not have been much runway for much adjusting, based on the size of the roof.

I went back over the nail heads, with brown silicon (to match brown shingles)
^This works too.

Why the installer didn't do either one is beyond me. And no one's complaining YET, but they will be when they realize where the water damaged started some years from now.
 

Chris705

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Looks like they nailed down the tab or lower portion of shingle to get them to lay flat against the lower roof portion. They could have used asphalt caulk or dabs of roofing cement to hold them down until they took a set by repeated warming by the sun. With this summers heat I'm sure they are now well stuck. You could see if you can pul the nails and seal remaining hole with asphalt cement if they really bother you.
 
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White Shadow

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And no one's complaining YET, but they will be when they realize where the water damaged started some years from now.

Okay, that's something that I didn't even think about. The exposed nails could potentially be an entry point for water? So if I'm going to leave the roof alone, I should get some black silicone and cover up the nail heads?

Again, roofing isn't my thing, so I need to ask & learn.
 
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White Shadow

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Looks like they nailed down the tab or lower portion of shingle to get them to lay flat against the lower roof portion. They could have used asphalt caulk or dabs of roofing cement to hold them down until they took a set by repeated warming by the sun. With this summers heat I'm sure they are now well stuck. You could see if you can pul the nails and seal remaining hole with asphalt cement if they really bother you.

The shed was built yesterday. But you're probably right that a few hot days and the shingles will set really nice. The shed company owner told me they nail it like that to help with the warranty---you know, high winds that may blow off some shingles. Maybe the silicone idea is what I need to do.
 

Zeke

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That's a bit of poor planning. The shed company owner is covering up for a worker that is likely new to the company. AFA staples go, yes nails are now the preferred attachment. Staples tend to cut the shingle.

I think brown silicone is the best solution at this point. If you are worried about water infiltration at the nails, this will help immensely. But you'll want to do a nice job. Maybe hold a washer over each nail and fill it with silicone and wipe it level. Then pull up evenly and gently pat down with a your fingertip after dipping in soapy water. Should come out looking factory.

And, if you really wanted to go to a lot of trouble, I think there are self sealing colored screws.

Me, I'd use a felt tip brown marker, but that's just me. Git 'er done.
 

p_mori7

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I have a similar roof on my shed, shingled the lower section, installed drip edge and then shingled the upper section , look in my Garage build thread linked at the bottom of the post & you will see pics of the shed

THIS.

You shingle the lower portion, hang the topmost row with nails as usual, the dripedge covers the nails, then shingle the upper portion just like a normal roof.
 

Roofdr131

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If you take a walk Home Depot or lowes roofing isle, you will find tubes of roofing cement. Put just enough on the nail head prevent the rain from penetrating. I personally prefer the way the installer surface nailed it as opposed to dabs of cement under the shingle to prevent the shingles from popping up. However, they should have sealed it before leaving.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Don't worry, they won't be shiny for very long. :wtf: And no one's complaining YET, but they will be when they realize where the water damaged started some years from now.

This. NO nails should be exposed on a shingle roof. Ever. The roof was installed wrong, period. I'd call the builder back and have it reroofed PROPERLY.

Tommy
 

Hawk

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This. NO nails should be exposed on a shingle roof. Ever. The roof was installed wrong, period. I'd call the builder back and have it reroofed PROPERLY.

Tommy
Finally a proper answer. You should see no nails on your shingles. Period.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Agreed^^^. Only nails ever showing is on the last ridge cap shingle, and those get covered with a dab of roofing cement. Its possible to fix this without reroofing the whole thing but for the size of the shed I'd get him to rip it down to where the problem starts.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
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White Shadow

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The owner refuses to do anything to the roof. He keeps telling me that's the way they do it. Okay, but the problem I have with that is none of the sheds in his yard had the exposed nail heads. Looks like this is going to get ugly. Good thing I paid with my credit card. I can always dispute the charge until he corrected the problem.
 
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LS6 Tommy

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The owner refuses to do anything to the roof. He keeps telling me that's the way they do it. Okay, but the problem I have with that is none of the sheds in his yard had the exposed nail heads. Looks like this is going to get ugly. Good thing I paid with my credit card. I can always dispute the charge until he corrected the problem.

Was there a permit on the job? If so it's very simple. Final payment cannot be made until the job passes inspection. If not a permit job, still hold his pay, get the local building requirements for asphalt shingle roofing and give the specs to the builder. Tell him when it meets spec, he gets paid.

Still won't be a fun time...

Tommy
 

jives

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Okay, its a shed, even if site built. Two solutions as mentioned. 1) Pull the nails, slide a piece of drip edge. Use roofing cement to lock down the bottom shingle on the top pitch roof. Less aggravation is dab on roofing cement on the nails. As others posters mention, there should NEVER be exposed nails.
 

NUTTSGT

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You can do something with your credit card or if nothing gets resolved, I'd do the simple method of a caulk gun and a tube of roof cement, covering the nail heads.

I think it was "cute" of the owner to mention that they recently switched over to nail from staples but nobody has complained about them yet.

Does the shed builder have a FB page ? Make a few posts with pics to put everybody else on alert since he doesn't want to correct the problem.
 

ryan20021982

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Ask him to show you where the shingle manufacturer says this is the proper way to install them and does not void the warranty.
 

Ole Slewfoot

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Or ask the shingle maker yourself.

I don't like silicone, dab some good ol roofing mastic on the nails, then sprinkle them with some of the grit from the shingles. perfect match.
 

PassnThru

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Is it just me or does that not look like a normal gambrel roof? I've only done one - FIL bought a kit and I helped him put it together and roofed it. I don't recall the angle being that sharp. We just planned it so the shingle bent over the lower slope. A nice warm day is key here - I don't recall even using any roofing cement.
I'm leaning towards thinking that the builder is making his own trusses that he designed. I'd like to see a picture from the gable end.
 

CNGsaves

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+1 with Zeke that this was piss-poor planning as they did NOT do proper layout.

Now . . . . IF . . . . the builder had put tar underneath all those nails, then you would have absolutely no problems, except cosmetic issue of shiny nails.

At this point, I'd dab little tar on each nail head and let dry. Then touch up with spray paint that hides those spots for cosmetic purposes.

You really will have no problems if you do the above.

Now, the comments of builder that "they previously used exposed staples" . . . that is tell tale sign they cut some corners. Now THAT I would have refused to pay and have them re-do it . . . exposed staples is just ****, plain & simple.
 

Zeke

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+1 with Zeke that this was piss-poor planning as they did NOT do proper layout.

Now . . . . IF . . . . the builder had put tar underneath all those nails, then you would have absolutely no problems, except cosmetic issue of shiny nails.

At this point, I'd dab little tar on each nail head and let dry. Then touch up with spray paint that hides those spots for cosmetic purposes.

You really will have no problems if you do the above.

Now, the comments of builder that "they previously used exposed staples" . . . that is tell tale sign they cut some corners. Now THAT I would have refused to pay and have them re-do it . . . exposed staples is just ****, plain & simple.
Thanks, but someone brought that up before I did and therefore deserves the credit.
 
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White Shadow

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Now, the comments of builder that "they previously used exposed staples" . . . that is tell tale sign they cut some corners. Now THAT I would have refused to pay and have them re-do it . . . exposed staples is just ****, plain & simple.

Here's a picture of the same model shed in their yard. They have about seven sheds with the same gambrel roof and they are all stapled just like the picture.
 

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White Shadow

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Was there a permit on the job? If so it's very simple. Final payment cannot be made until the job passes inspection. If not a permit job, still hold his pay, get the local building requirements for asphalt shingle roofing and give the specs to the builder. Tell him when it meets spec, he gets paid.

Still won't be a fun time...

Tommy

Yes, my town requires a permit for any shed bigger than 10 x 10. I originally used a credit card to give the builder a 50% deposit. Today I looked at my credit card account and he charged the remaining 50% to my card on the same day he built the shed. That pisses me off because I didn't authorize the payment..... Unless it is stated in the contract that he can automatically charge my card again upon completion of the job. I would have to read the contract to be sure. I'll call the town on Monday to inspect the shed. I don't know how concerned they will be with the shingles though.
 
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White Shadow

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Is it just me or does that not look like a normal gambrel roof? I've only done one - FIL bought a kit and I helped him put it together and roofed it. I don't recall the angle being that sharp. We just planned it so the shingle bent over the lower slope. A nice warm day is key here - I don't recall even using any roofing cement.
I'm leaning towards thinking that the builder is making his own trusses that he designed. I'd like to see a picture from the gable end.

Here are the trusses. Seems like a standard gambrel style, no?
 

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LS6 Tommy

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Yes, my town requires a permit for any shed bigger than 10 x 10. I originally used a credit card to give the builder a 50% deposit. Today I looked at my credit card account and he charged the remaining 50% to my card on the same day he built the shed. That pisses me off because I didn't authorize the payment..... Unless it is stated in the contract that he can automatically charge my card again upon completion of the job. I would have to read the contract to be sure. I'll call the town on Monday to inspect the shed. I don't know how concerned they will be with the shingles though.

They CAN'T charge you for final payment until the shed has passed inspection. Time to reverse the charges, involve the AHJ and /or proceed with legal action.

Why make things more difficult with home fixes, etc. when the proper course of action is right in front of you?


Tommy
 

mds5951

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looks like those 3 tab shingles should make that transition easily. would probably take a warm day to lay them down. ive done a couple gambrel sheds with architectural shingles and even they laid down after a day.

While the "right" thing would be to have him reroof the shed--it looks like he is uncooperative and its going to be a PITA. id probably settle with the guy and just agree on a %off just to save the hassle.
 

n20junkie

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They CAN'T charge you for final payment until the shed has passed inspection. Time to reverse the charges, involve the AHJ and /or proceed with legal action.

Why make things more difficult with home fixes, etc. when the proper course of action is right in front of you?


Tommy

Says who? Passing inspection and payment are two seperate issues unless a contract stated anything different. I doubt exposed nail heads in a roof would cause the municipality to reject the final inspection.

With that being said, its a shed. Its not a 100 year structure, not heated, not living space. Chances are it will rot out in other areas before the roof ever has a problem.

The example sheds that the OP looked at also had exposed fasteners. Its not like the builder hid the fact that this is how its done.

I think some people are getting a little wrapped around the axles, but thats just my opinion.
 

Tucko

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There should have been a 3'x3" metal flashing at the transition, water lapped over/under the roofing shingles. Would have tied in nicely with the other roof edge trim pieces, and there would be no exposed nails or fastners.
 
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