Roofing question...

[bluesman2a]

OK, I'm starting the next stage of my construction. As part of that, I'm building a compressor room under the outside/exterior stairs.

Because of the way everything is positioned, I have no choice but to have the supports for the stairs going through the roof of the shed.

The roof will be a single plane shed-type roof. It will be a tin roof installed on top of OSB sheeting with 2X6 framing.

In the pics below, the red marks the basic outline of the compressor area. The yellow marks where the support 6X6's will go through the roof.

So my question is this: How do I seal/flash this so water doesn't come down the posts and get things wet inside? Is there some product/procedure that would fit the bill here? Roofing has never been my strong point, but I'm having a hard time figuring out how to get this done.

 

[CraigFL]

If you go to this website on metallic roofing and look at manufacturers data/info, you will see many ways manufacturers recommend to finish things like this.

http://www.metalroofing.com/v2/content/manufacturer/

 

[uniongoon]

If you are shingling, it can be done the same as you would see on a brick chimney. Bend four "L" shaped sheetmetal flashing pieces to surround the post. The upper three go on first. Do not nail the bottom of the side pieces, the lower shingle should slide under then the next shingle over the flashing. Also wise to surround the flashing with 2-3 feet of ice and water shield. Bottom flashing piece gets nailed on top of the lower shingle. Remember water flows downhill (except when it freezes). Use silicone (dymonic caulking) to seal all corners and around top of flashing where it connects to the wooden post.

 

[bluesman2a]

If you go to this website on metallic roofing and look at manufacturers data/info, you will see many ways manufacturers recommend to finish things like this.

http://www.metalroofing.com/v2/content/manufacturer/

Thanks craig, but in looking through the first several, nothing jumps out at me, am I missing something here?

If you are shingling, it can be done the same as you would see on a brick chimney.

Thanks union, but I'm doing a metal/tin roof to match the existing stuff, plus I don't think there would be enough pitch to use shingle effectively.

 

[rieferman]

In your second picture, it looks as though the shed will just barely come out to where the posts are.. Assuming your photo shopping is reasonably accurate, but could you consider just making the shed that little bit narrower and avoiding the issue completely?

 

[bluesman2a]

In your second picture, it looks as though the shed will just barely come out to where the posts are.. Assuming your photo shopping is reasonably accurate, but could you consider just making the shed that little bit narrower and avoiding the issue completely?

You're "reading" it right there reifer, I COULD do that, but the 6X6's are being poured into the slab. I would prefer to enclose those bases and it makes for a handy way to frame the walls too. If there is a way to realistically avoid doing that, I'd like to try. I don't think this is hard, I just want to make sure to do it correctly and use the right products the first time.

 

[bluesman2a]

Beuller?
Beuller?

 

[devo]

IMHO,

Options:

1) Pitch pan. With corrugated roofing, this probably won't work very well because you need to cut your roof panel around the boot. Tough to make a long lasting seal.

2) Custom metal boot or "jack" with a caulked top. May not be cost effective if you don't make it yourself. Also not a great solution if using corrugated roofing.

3) Just cut the panel to fit tight around the post, and caulk it. Not really an option if you're doing it right. (Obviously)

4) Dektite. Good option for corrugated panels, as well as flat panels. Manufacturer says they work on square penetrations.

5) TRA FlexFlash. Good stuff. Bend out the top 1/2" of the FlexFlash around the posts and caulk it.

Matt

 

[tcianci]

I would avoid penetration of the roof plane if I were you. The metal roofing moves more than a wood frame and any sealant used would probably require regular maintenance. The simplest thing is to frame your shed to miss the posts. Another quick and easy way to get around this is to install a rubber roof and cut your uprights and rest them on a sleeper block and have no penetration at all.

 

[ddawg16]

Why do the posts have to go through the roof? It appears to me that you could make it about 6" shallow and the stair post would be on the outside.

 

[tcianci]

An Addendum to my original suggestion of the rubber roof...once the whole shed is done and you have the posts resting on the rubber roof, you could dummy the tin over it for the look