roofing time any tips before i start?

[punkabilly136]

we are starting on the roof this upcoming weekend and it'll be the first full roofing job i've done. It is a complete tear off and re-lay, any suggestions or helpful hints you could share?
thanks everyone
bob

 

[Jason_D]

hire a roofing crew & watch them while you drink beer!

really though, use safety ropes! I used to roof many years ago & have seen lots of guys fall & that never turns out good. also, a pitch/hay fork works pretty well for removal. try to avoid staples when fastening the new shingles.

 

[punkabilly136]

man would i love to hire someone and not have to worry about doing it but i can't justify paying someone 4k to do something i know i can do...and luckily my roof isn't high up or steep so that should make it a little "easier" lol. Im 23 so i think my back should be able to hold up for a weekend lol

 

[boiler7904]

Only tear off what you can re-cover in one day (with felt at least). As soon as you leave a section open overnight, you'll get a monsoon.

Cover all of the landscaping near the house with tarps during tear off.

Set the dumpster as close to the house as possible and dump all of the waste directly into it.

Have a few sheets of plywood on hand or be ready to run for it once you start the tear off in case you find bad sheathing.

Buy or rent a roofing nailer - Hitachi and Bostich always get good reviews.

Use ice and water shield for the bottom 3' from the gutter or as far as you need to go to get inside the interior face of the exterior walls. You should also use it for any valleys that you have. 30lb felt for the rest of the roof.

Start at the back of the house and work to the front - you won't be walking on new shingles this way which removes the protective granuales. Plus, your work will get better the more you're on the roof so make the back have any imperfections.

Take a look at flashings for chimneys, plumbing stacks, skylights, etc. before you start the tear off and have the material on hand to do any repairs as you work that area.

 

[Jason_D]

Im 23 so i think my back should be able to hold up for a weekend lol

yet, you have not started,,,,,lol

follow the advise that boiler7904 provided & you should be fine. Also, a sheet of plywood to use as a slide helps ensure you hit the dumpster and protects the house from debri.

 

[nissan_crawler]

also, a pitch/hay fork works pretty well for removal. try to avoid staples when fastening the new shingles.

We used potato forks, they're a little sturdier.

Only tear off what you can re-cover in one day (with felt at least). As soon as you leave a section open overnight, you'll get a monsoon.

Cover all of the landscaping near the house with tarps during tear off.

Set the dumpster as close to the house as possible and dump all of the waste directly into it.

Have a few sheets of plywood on hand or be ready to run for it once you start the tear off in case you find bad sheathing.

Buy or rent a roofing nailer - Hitachi and Bostich always get good reviews.

Use ice and water shield for the bottom 3' from the gutter or as far as you need to go to get inside the interior face of the exterior walls. You should also use it for any valleys that you have. 30lb felt for the rest of the roof.

Start at the back of the house and work to the front - you won't be walking on new shingles this way which removes the protective granuales. Plus, your work will get better the more you're on the roof so make the back have any imperfections.

Take a look at flashings for chimneys, plumbing stacks, skylights, etc. before you start the tear off and have the material on hand to do any repairs as you work that area.

All good advice. I bought a bunch of crappy HF tarps, and staked them down when I did my roof. When I was done, I just rolled them up and trashed them.

I bought all new roof vents, chimney pipe/caps/roof seals, seals for the sewer vent, etc. It's just easier to do it at the same time, then 5 years later when it rusts out and you tear up a good roof to do it. It's just not worth potentially having to tear into a $5,000 roof later to save $200 in the short term.

Last advice: In addition to only tearing off what you can replace, if rain is coming in, and you can't fully roof a section, DO NOT START. Leave the tar paper on the roof, put some strips on (vertically) to hold it down if needed. I got a surprise storm while doing mine, and I had one side half shingled. BIG MISTAKE. The water runs down the tar paper, goes under the shingles, and backs up under the shingles until it finds the seam in the tar paper and leaks through. I was in the attic stapling up painters plastic to funnel water dripping through the roof ( I have 1x8 pine roof, not sheathing) and down out of the attic door onto my garage floor. Even then, it ruined some sheetrock.

 

[Sundowner]

when you put on the tar paper, start at the TOP and work your way DOWN. just staple the top edge. slide the top edge of the next lower layer of tar paper under the bottom edge of the upper row and staple it down. reason for this is that the paper is very slippery, so it's safer to work fro mthe top, down.

also, hit a roofing supply house, they all sell what is called "compliance in a ca" it's about $150 and it's a 5 gallon bucket with a climbing harness, a rope, and a rafter anchor. buy it. It's cheaper than stiches and priceless compared to spending your life in a wheelchair.

there's a book printed by Tauton's simply titled "Roofing". It's meant for pros and it's filled with good tips. even if you've done roofing before, it's a good idea to brush-up on the finer points before you get back into it. It's like $15 and you can get it at anyplace like Borders or even Home Depot.

 

[punkabilly136]

heres the house in question, thanks everyone for the great advice...i'll def. be using it!!!

 

[RWD]

Looks like about a 4/12 pitch. Should be no problem walking it. If you are going to throw the stuff off of the roof, use a tarp and put a few sheets of plywood over it. Easier to shovel up.

 

[punkabilly136]

anyone gets bored this saturday they are more then welcome to "stop" out

 

[Junkman]

I would skip the tar paper and use ice and water shield over the whole roof. Also, cut the ridge for a ridge vent last. On the lower edge, start with a course of shingles that are turned over, and then put the next course over that. Also put an aluminum edge over the bottom on top of the wood and up the edge of the roof, and hang the shingles about an inch over the front edge. If you use the better grade architectural shingles they go up faster and will only cost a little bit more. They look better, and have a 30 year warranty. No cut outs to worry about lining up.

 

[mulepackin]

Not to deviate from the thread too much, but I had a guy tell me that the architectural grade shingles still had a "pattern" to line up when installing them. Anyone ever heard of this? I used them on my garden shed last summer, and the installation inst. on the package did not refer to any type of pattern. Only the amount of shingle that needed to be cut off of the first of each new course, before returning to a full shingle to start.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

Buy some 4mm plastic and put it around 6' all around the house. That will catch most of the small **** and nails. Fold it up when done and throw away. Buy a good roofing shovel/scraper/nail puller. They are a great tool when it comes to tearing off roof shingles

Only tear off one side at a time. That job is going to take around 4 to 6 Saturdays to finish with one novice roofer.

Glen
________
Land Rover 101 Forward Control history

 

[Junkman]

In theory, they do have a pattern to them, but it still turns out to be so random that you can't tell what it is. When I had a home professionally shingled with the architectural shingles, one guy worked from the bottom edge up for half the roof, and the other fellow continued the course to the other side. It went very quickly, and when they were finished, they cut the right side flush. I think that he started with a cut shingle on the left that gave him the needed "step".

 

[carcruse]

Make sure the ice shield goes 2 foot past the inside of the wall in order to meet code.

 

[CharlieBrown]

and have access to a hottub..your gonna need it

savin all that money...hurts



did my new garage..21 squares..new construction

from now on..am a payin roofing customer

and...some landfills charge a pretty penny for diposal of the old shingles

 

[IDASHO]

I would skip the tar paper and use ice and water shield over the whole roof.

Considering cost vs. benefit, I see this as a waste. Unless you are putting a "lifetime" shingle on it, like slate.

Ice and water shield is expensive stuff. And just think about how much of a PITA is would be to strip and re-roof the next go-around

Make sure the ice shield goes 2 foot past the inside of the wall in order to meet code.

No such code exists in the Uniform Building Code.

Requirements for Ice and Water shield varies from County to County.

Some counties require it, other dont.

 

[punkabilly136]

i don't think we have a code requring ice shield, and we have about 5 guys doing it this weekend so it should go rather quickly, and im trying to keep the investment on this thing low since we are only going to be here another 2 years maybe

 

[nissan_crawler]

and have access to a hottub..your gonna need it

savin all that money...hurts



did my new garage..21 squares..new construction

from now on..am a payin roofing customer

and...some landfills charge a pretty penny for diposal of the old shingles

My roof is comprised of two offset hip roofs with a shorter ridge joining the ends of the two hip roofs...what a pain.

I also had two layers to tear off, and the previous owners shot the first layer FULL of staples, because they were coming loose, then laid a second layer over that ****.

I laid down cheapo HF tarps all around the edge of the house, and staked them down. Shingles got shoveled off onto the tarps (hard to put a dumpster somewhere handy with 10 roof faces to deal with). When we were done, I had a dumpster brought in, and rented a CAT skidsteer for $140. 1.5 hours later, all shingles were cleaned up and gone. I just got under the tarp, lifted up a scoop, used a utility knife to cut the tarp, and went and dumped that load. It would've taken me 3 solid days with a wheelbarrow.

1.5 hours, no nails in the yard, all done, and I had another 6.5 hours on the Hobbs to go level the yard with.

 

[punkabilly136]

oh a 20 yard dumpster is being brought in thursday and going under the awning in the driveway so we can just shovel everything into the dumpster from the roof

 

[ws6fiero]

If you know anyone who works for a sighn (billboard) company, their worn ones make great tarps & can be cheap or free...

 

[6768rogues]

A version of the International Building Code is the basis for most building codes these days. It requires ice and water shield at least to a point two feet vertically inside the inside wall line. It meets code, and if you have an ice dam issue you will be very happy to have done it. If you use architectural shingles, don't forget to order caps.

 

[Boones]

How do you handle the roof peak with the tar paper. do you overlap it (half on each side) or something else. I am going to be doing a garage this summer with a 12/4 pitch also.. great thread.

 

[mulepackin]

How do you handle the roof peak with the tar paper. do you overlap it (half on each side) or something else. I am going to be doing a garage this summer with a 12/4 pitch also.. great thread.

If I don't have ridge vent to deal with, I just run the last course of felt up and over the ridge, allowing it to lap whatever that distance works out to be. Then essentially do the same with the opposing side, lapping it over the ridge and the new felt on the first side whatever that distance happens to work out at. If I am dealing with ridge vent (which I am a strong advocate of), then I paper to the edge of the cut out and trim and staple flush to that edge. Usually have to make a couple of "end caps" of paper to cover the few inches on each edge that aren't cut out for vent, or lap that small section as noted above.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Looks like an easy roof, just take your time and when you get tired stop before you do something to hurt yourself.

I would come help so you could return the favor later this spring but I'm going to be in Pittsburg this weekend.

As far as roofs go yours is about the easiest to do, 4 way roof with no valleys.
Like someone else said make sure you spend the time and put new step flashings around the chimney and if the existing flashings on the chimney are questionable replace it all. Takes some time but you will be happy with yourself a couple years from now and it will look great.

 

[MXtras]

Pop good lines (vertical, too) and stick to 'em and you will have straight seams. Other than that - all else has been covered in previous posts.

Great thread!

Scott

 

[nissan_crawler]

This only applies if you have a board roof (mine is pine 1x8) and not a sheathed one:

get some flashing to nail over the knot holes. Over time the paper will sag in these holes and cause a leak.

Lay as much plastic as possible in your attic. The dirt/shingle crud will come through the 1/16-18" spaces between the boards and make a mess of your insulation.

 

[dxdexter]

hire a roofing crew & watch them while you drink beer!

.

I agree. Most home construction accidents happen while roofing with inexperienced people and on a weekend. That is a fact here in Canada. Be careful, its not uncommon for a homeowner to loose his house paying the lawsuit that happens after the "hired help" falls off the roof.

If you do hire someone, make sure they carry insurance and provide proof.

 

[Magnum-X]

Do yourself a favor and if you have a side of your garage facing a direction where you may get strong winds, consider investing in a little tar. This gives you some peace of mind that the shingle will stay put. It is a very cheap investment as you can buy it in a bucket or as a caulking tube. The little tar strips arent bad but in a very strong wind you may find yourself picking up shingles around your yard. You can also apply tar after the shingles have been installed and is really takes very little effort.

 

[punkabilly136]

work has begun today, and hopefully done by saturday!!!

 

[cpmarks]

Isn't tar paper basically there to help with the tear off next time? Your punching it full of holes anyway. Around here they usually only put one pass at the eaves.

 

[Kevin54]

Isn't tar paper basically there to help with the tear off next time? Your punching it full of holes anyway. Around here they usually only put one pass at the eaves

Tarpaper is an extra added insurance. Not really a necessity per se but it does help. On anything less than a 6/12 I would DEFINATELY use it. From a 6/12 to a 12/12 not really a necessity. But look at it about the same as house wrap.

Punkabilly...have you srated putting the shingles down yet? If not, read the package and be sure to strike your lines (chalk lines) It will make your life so much easier as to keeping all of your rain grooves lines up along with the bottom of the tabs in a straight line. Measure from the first shingle that goes across then strike a line every 15" up from that. That way every third row you can straighten out your shingles. Believe me, if you never roofed you will have to. Then on the starter side of the roof, straight down from the highest pealk of the hip roof, you should strike two vertical lines. Not sure of the distance apart at the moment but it should be on the package directions. This is where the edge of your shingles start. The whole shingle and the partial. This is the line that keeps the complete roof looking good from the ground.

 

[punkabilly136]

we have the complete north/west/east sides done and today we ran out of material so we couldn't finish the south (street side) of the house, hopefully i can get some more shingles tomorrow and finish the 6 square we have left to do, but luckily we have tarr paper down in case it does decide to rain....oh yeah....rip off ***** ***!!!!

 

[boiler7904]

oh yeah....rip off ***** ***!!!!

Glad to hear it went well except running out of material.

I'll rip a roof off any day over what I did today - remove 120 sf of concrete patio. Just me and a sledge hammer. 40 sf to do tomorrow before the dumpster shows up on tuesday. Next weekend is dig out another 200 sf about 8" deep to prep for the expanded patio.

 

[punkabilly136]

WE ARE DONE!!!! WE FINISHED YESTERDAY ABOUT 8:30 AT NIGHT AND I COULDN'T BE MORE EXCITED!!!! and to know that i did it myself and didn't have to hire someone...sorry for the dark pic but i just remembered to take it and update everyone, now its nail inspection time around the yard and misc. cleanup THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS EVERYONE, COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU!!!
BOB