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Rookie question about Bodine DC motor

tobers

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I have an Inca planer. There is a plastic drive gear that melts on these machines, so several folks online have swapped a DC gear motor/controller to make it a direct chain drive. I'm pretty handy, but no nothing about DC motors. One gentleman used a Bodine 33A3BEPM-5R, which is 1/11 HP, 43 RPM gear motor. So, I just purchased one. I understand I need a speed controller, too. Here is my question: I'd love to pick one up used to save some money, and there appear to be many options. The person who recommended the motor suggested a Bodine WPM-2137E1, which is pushing $300 new. There seem to be other Bodine speed controllers, like the 835, that might work. How do I know which speed controllers might work well with my Bodine motor? I'll buy one and try to make this work. Thank you. Rick
 
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bubinga

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Why don't you get an inexpensive treadmill motor and try it? I mean try to get a whole treadmill inexpensively or free. A lot of times you can use the controller that is already in the treadmill. I would put a small sprocket on the motor and a large sprocket on the planer drive, so that you can run the motor a little faster as they develop more horsepower at a higher speed in my opinion it would have plenty of torque.
If the controller is different and does not have a regular potentiometer on it or has a bunch of big marigma rude to it you can oftentimes wire a if I recall correctly a 5k potentiometer right up to them. If not, again it's been a while but if you get a treadmill motor or even the one you are looking at the gear motor that runs on 90 volts as well which is roughly what the treadmill controller puts out With that motor you referred to, has a gear motor or I assume they mean gear reduction motor then you could probably run it more of a one-to-one ratio on your sprockets. You might even be able to use a couple pulleys and a v belt or a couple serpentine four or five rib pulleys in a serpentine belt I ran a Logan lathe lead screw, using a wiper motor a pulse width modulation board and a 12 volt power supply but in your case you would want the type of controller that came with a treadmill that runs on 110 input. I'm a little rusty on all of this right now but if you need any more help with it I would I'll see what I can do to help you get it all wired up and figured out.
Other option for a controller / inverter board don't quote me but I believe it's an mc-60 they were readily available on eBay as well.
They are a 110 volt input also. Remind me in a few days most of my stuff is in storage but I may may have my controllers here I'll sell you at one reasonably if I have them here.
I think they are here but I could be wrong.
 
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tobers

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i already have the motor. got in new, for like 1/4 price, so I'm close. I'll look at your mc-60 suggestion. thanks!
 

bubinga

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It's pretty straight forward, to hook up. I'm starting to remember. It should be all marked.
110V input, don't think polarity matters, unless it's marked. Ground to the frame.
The output is just 2 wires, if the motor runs backwards, just reverse them.
The Pot, (IIRC 5 K pot) input, has a center common, and two on the end, center contact to center of pot.
2 end inputs on the board, go to the end terminals on the pot.
we like to turn to the right to increase speed. (It's just natural)
Again, if it's backwards, reverse two end wires on pot.
 

bubinga

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Funny observation I guess I'll just post it here.
Was typing this reply on my regular computer, and my mouse decided to go south so I could not hit post reply.
Could not bring it up with tab to hit enter to send either.
So I said oh well I'll just I don't feel like typing it again, I'll just grab my phone, and dictate it into the phone off of the computer screen.
Funny thing when I open my phone to this page it was already typed out on my phone like they are synchronized somehow.
I never saw that happen or knew that?
 

dogdog

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It dependents on what you want and what you are working on / comfortable with...

DC motors so far I notice there are three type (not talking about different frames or some weird shafts configurations or with build in speed rings)

Brushed DC permanent magnetic motor... the one with two leads +/- and you reverse the polarities, it spins the other way...

or the brushed motor with non-permanent magnetic (magnetic coils instead of permanent magnets F1 F2 F3 F4 etc extra wires, yea they do exist , I got one 1HP one too bought it wrong)

and that 3phase motor aka brush-less dc motor ( these needs a controller to drive them like you alternator I think)...


as far as driving them... newer controllers don't care as long as your speed controller is capable of at or higher amp, newer ones are PWM ... older ones actually change different DC levels to change different speeds and you'll have to match the resistor to the load of the motor... like the KB electronic ones... sorry no experience with the Bodine controllers maybe call them up... one of the version you posted is a PWM controller so you probably don't needed any load reisistors like the Old KB electronic speed controller that I have.

Ebay have some cheap ones but no experience with them, I have my eyes on them for a while... then lost interest.


Ebay says I bought this item, but have no idea where it is hiding from me lol... was intended to drive my 1/25 HP Bison gear motor or the 1/4 HP one..


also with DC permanent motors, you can run them at lower voltage but the speed of the motor also slows down as well...
 

BillK

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So how often does the gear strip ??? Sounds to me like for a small fraction of what you will spend trying to rig up a different motor you could just buy 20 gears and be done with it for a lifetime ??
 

bubinga

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It dependents on what you want and what you are working on / comfortable with...

DC motors so far I notice there are three type (not talking about different frames or some weird shafts configurations or with build in speed rings)

Brushed DC permanent magnetic motor... the one with two leads +/- and you reverse the polarities, it spins the other way...

or the brushed motor with non-permanent magnetic (magnetic coils instead of permanent magnets F1 F2 F3 F4 etc extra wires, yea they do exist , I got one 1HP one too bought it wrong)

and that 3phase motor aka brush-less dc motor ( these needs a controller to drive them like you alternator I think)...


as far as driving them... newer controllers don't care as long as your speed controller is capable of at or higher amp, newer ones are PWM ... older ones actually change different DC levels to change different speeds and you'll have to match the resistor to the load of the motor... like the KB electronic ones... sorry no experience with the Bodine controllers maybe call them up... one of the version you posted is a PWM controller so you probably don't needed any load reisistors like the Old KB electronic speed controller that I have.

Ebay have some cheap ones but no experience with them, I have my eyes on them for a while... then lost interest.


Ebay says I bought this item, but have no idea where it is hiding from me lol... was intended to drive my 1/25 HP Bison gear motor or the 1/4 HP one..


also with DC permanent motors, you can run them at lower voltage but the speed of the motor also slows down as well...
And probably the horsepower as well I would think.
Why I stated if he ran a treadmill motor, (permanent magnet DC motor most of the time)
To gear it such that the motor runs at a higher speed resulting in closer to maximum horsepower.
 

bubinga

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So how often does the gear strip ??? Sounds to me like for a small fraction of what you will spend trying to rig up a different motor you could just buy 20 gears and be done with it for a lifetime ??
Might be nice to have the variable speed, DC motor option though.
(Op, I understand
This is for the rollers that drive the wood through the planer correct?)
Would be a nice variable speed feed option.

Just had a thought though, that plastic year is not in there to sort of act as a....... What's the term I'm looking for? Sort of a "fail safe"
Weak link so to speak, to save the machine in the event of some sort of jam?
 

dogdog

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And probably the horsepower as well I would think.
Why I stated if he ran a treadmill motor, (permanent magnet DC motor most of the time)
To gear it such that the motor runs at a higher speed resulting in closer to maximum horsepower.
dunno his application, I do have two treadmill motor without controllers... and it is 3000 rpm at full power. pretty sure it is hard to drop it down to 46 RPM and the spindle is weird. Need to find some one with lathes etc to turn it down etc to first belts and anything.

Talking about DC motors, I actually have a craftsman palm sander (the square one) that is actually a DC motor. it's plug in to the wall and inside just have a rectifier to convert it to dirty DC. it ran fine super strong and super fast, no speed control. Probably super dangerous.
 

bubinga

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dunno his application, I do have two treadmill motor without controllers... and it is 3000 rpm at full power. pretty sure it is hard to drop it down to 46 RPM and the spindle is weird. Need to find some one with lathes etc to turn it down etc to first belts and anything.

Talking about DC motors, I actually have a craftsman palm sander (the square one) that is actually a DC motor. it's plug in to the wall and inside just have a rectifier to convert it to dirty DC. it ran fine super strong and super fast, no speed control. Probably super dangerous.
Yeah, not sure, you'd have to try it maybe with some different pulley, gear sizes, Motor I put on my 150 CM drill press is nice,
(put an add and somecalled me right away. I got kucky with the motor though, Seem 100percent 56 frame...
perfect 5/8" shaft, and matches up perfect to the 56 frame of the OEM craftsman and other motors, mounting, and shaft height, etc.
But i'm thinking that gear reduction motor he was will be nice for his application...........................

O.P., how many wires on your motor? .................and what's the RPM?
 

walta

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Assuming the motor you have had brushes, permanent magnets and two wires.

I like Dart brand motor controls. This one on EBay seems to fit your needs.

 

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bubinga

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Assuming the motor you have had brushes, permanent magnets and two wires.

I like Dart brand motor controls. This one on EBay seems to fit your needs.

Looks Good. AFAICT, looks darn near like A KB 120.
Didn't check if you have to add a resistor for your application?
IIIRC KB 120 is the ones I have. where you have to add the resistor.
One of them should work too I would think.
 
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tobers

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wow. great advice. I have received great answers from Bodine directly. Was not expecting that, but hats off to them. The best. They have been remarkably patient and helpful to a newbie. A couple of comments to reply to some of the posts: the Bodine motor has two leads (dogdog's first category). A plastic drive gear from Inca is 1/2 of the cost to do it this way, and we've burned up 2 already. Also, it isn't easy to get the belts adjusted after putting in a new one. It's worth it to me to have a reliable, variable speed drive to move the wood through the knives. And, with the plastic gears you never know if this is the "pass" that is going to melt it down ... quite unnerving. The current motor runs at 42 rpm. The people who have done this before me used a 44 tooth gear, which, coupled with this motor, matches (actually broadens) the speed range of the replaced gear. Bodine is suggesting this speed controller WPM-2109E1. A used one is in the $150 range, but I think there are cheaper options. The Dart options are similar. One problem that has arisen: evidently I need to disassemble the motor and rotate the gearhead 90 degrees. Hopefully I can attempt that soon. If anyone has taken a Bodine apart and done this, let me know. Thank you! Rick
 
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tobers

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one more comment: I don't think the plastic gear is there as a safety device. However, going to a straight chain drive makes one desire such a device should something jamb. Someone suggested a brass key in the shaft. Someone else perhaps put in a spring (?). I am out of my league on this stuff, but the brass key makes some sense to me.
 

bubinga

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one more comment: I don't think the plastic gear is there as a safety device. However, going to a straight chain drive makes one desire such a device should something jamb. Someone suggested a brass key in the shaft. Someone else perhaps put in a spring (?). I am out of my league on this stuff, but the brass key makes some sense to me.
Perhaps Bodien sell some type of shear pin?
 

PoorUB

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Why don't you get an inexpensive treadmill motor and try it? I mean try to get a whole treadmill inexpensively or free.
A treadmill motor is something like 1100 RPM. The motor he needs is 43 RPM.

Not going to work!
 

PoorUB

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It's pretty straight forward, to hook up. I'm starting to remember. It should be all marked.
110V input, don't think polarity matters, unless it's marked. Ground to the frame.
The output is just 2 wires, if the motor runs backwards, just reverse them.
The Pot, (IIRC 5 K pot) input, has a center common, and two on the end, center contact to center of pot.
2 end inputs on the board, go to the end terminals on the pot.
we like to turn to the right to increase speed. (It's just natural)
Again, if it's backwards, reverse two end wires on pot.
Bubinga, I don't think you are following what he is trying to do!

He has a DC motor, information for 120V AC hook up is worthless to him.
 
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tobers

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I just bought the Bodine speed controller (used) they recommended. Now I need to take the motor apart (slightly, I hope) and rotate the gearhead. Currently the shaft points straight down, towards the mounting table, and it needs to rotate 90 degrees and point parallel to mounting table. Let me know if you've got wisdom on this :). Bodine service folks say it can be done.
 

dogdog

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Don't have a Bodine motor or maybe I do and it's hiding from me. I do remember buying lots of them few years back for some weird fetishes, they were a lot cheaper then on ebay. Anyways....

But it looks like it is just a worm gear and an gear in that gear box... you can take the shaft out and switch it so it goes the other way but that is 180 deg not 90 deg though...



if you look at their drawing on their site the Drawing view #3 the back of the motor looks like it's only 2 bolts that held the back cover plate and front so any switch or rotation would be 180 deg also... unless it's some other things in the front.

these motor the most PITA would be getting those brushes back in when you put in the armature in and if the brushes are in the way... but this one looks like it's removable... you might get lucky... Only way to find out is open it up.
 

dogdog

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oh right .... maybe look in the front and see how that gear box is attached to the motor. If there are 4 screws / bolts there you might just be able to rotate it... it's not in the pic anywhere though.
 
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tobers

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this is what I was instructed by the manufacturer: "You would need to remove the 2 thru bolts, then rotate the front shield, the adapter between motor & gearbox & also the gearhead. And you might lose some oil." Haven't had time to try yet. Will update.
 

bubinga

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A treadmill motor is something like 1100 RPM. The motor he needs is 43 RPM.

Not going to work!
I'm not heart set on that okay? It was a suggestion.
I would a darn sure tried it if I had one laying around.
Anyways, as far as the controller the original poster linked to I think that would be just fine however I don't see why a KB 120 wouldn't work either.
 
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