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Rotary Lift Install Questions...Leveling Columns

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atvkid4eva

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Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
78
Location
Cleveland, OH
I am installing my new Rotary SPO10 2-post lift in my home shop. I have the columns assembled and stood in the upright position with the correct spacing between per the manual. My floor has a center drain in this bay, the slope isn’t anything drastic but it’s still there. I have both columns plumb in both directions. I then took my laser and shot a horizontal beam across both columns. I measured from the base plate to the laser line on each column and found out that my the passenger side column was sitting roughly 3/4” higher than the driver side column due to the slope in concrete.

I then shimmed the entire driver side column up 1/4” to reduce the difference in height to roughly 1/2”. I was hesitant to raise the column anymore due to the possibility that I would not be able to get the arms under a standard car. Not sure if this is something I should worry about or not?

Is the 1/2” difference that I will be left with anything to worry about? I have the screw up style pads so I have adjustment there to make up for it I’m assuming.

Also, rotary says anything shimming over 1/2” will require longer anchors. If I am right at 1/2” in some spots of each plate will I be okay with the stock Hilti anchors?

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!
 
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7

70runner

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Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
189
Location
Avocado country
Personally, I wouldn't shim the columns to account for floor slope/unequal height. Depending on the shim style, this reduces the baseplate/floor contact area. Use the screw pads to compensate and/or spacers. I had to use large 1/8 in thick washers on my non screw style pads to compensate for floor slope (Atlas BP8000). Pads need to be level, not the columns.
 
B

bulldog101

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
18
Location
Kenosha County, WI
I'll be following the comments here, I am also in the middle of installing a Rotary (SP09A) in my shop and have a similar slope towards a drain, This was purchased used and came with several 1/16" full sized shims but am considering making a 3/8" to 1/2"spacer plate I'm uncertain if this is the correct approach and if longer Hilti anchors are required while waiting for the 28 day concrete cure period.
 
J

jasondavidmann

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Joined
Aug 16, 2009
Messages
162
Location
Manitoba, Canada
I'm also following along as I just picked up a used SPO10. I have a center drain in the hoist bay.

I was wondering, do you think taking a grinder and making level and equal grade pads would be a good solution?
 
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A

Azzkker

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
59
Location
decatur IL
Use a hydraulic cement type grout to pack under the base plates when you get the height set. A trowel and a little elbow grease is all that's needed to pack it under. After it cures, it allows full baseplate contact to solid surface.

Masterflow 928 Grout, Hydraulic Cement-based Mineral-aggregate Grout (55lb)

Masterflow® 928 Grout, Hydraulic Cement-based Mineral-aggregate Grout with Extended Working Time. NSF 61 Potable Water Certified. 55 Lb/Bag. Price/Bag.
www.google.com
 
W

Walkers

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May 17, 2021
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3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
I would leave both columns on the concrete. The car you are rolling in there is going to be sitting on the same unlevel ground, so if you shim the low side up 3/4” it will contact the car first and there will be a 3/4” gap between the pad and the car on the high side.
 
L

lugnut71

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Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Messages
1,898
Location
Wyoming
the problem i see if the equalizer cables might keep one side from coming all the way down preventing the pins from unlocking the arm
 
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