Rotary Lift Issue!!

[EastCoast]

Guys, I need HELP!

Installing a used Rotary SPO7A lift. The left cylinder (away from the power unit) will not go up or down freely. It's a hydraulic issue as we have confirmed that the carriage is not bound or stuck, we've unhooked cables, etc.

When you raise the lift (empty or weighted), the left side squeaks, squeals and chatters as it goes up! It will not go down unless weight is applied (using a tractor bucket).

I've bled the cylinder, and got a little bit of air... Is this an air issue? Is there something major wrong with this cylinder? If so, how do you go about removing the it??

Thanks for any help you can provide!!
Robb

 

[pattenp]

I don't think air is your problem but may be a result of a problem with the cylinder. You may be looking at having to purchase a new cylinder, but this is only a guess. I don't have a Rotary lift but on my 2 post lift it requires taking down the column and sliding the carriage to the top of the column to remove the hydraulic cylinder.

 

[nehog]

Maybe worth a try. Can you lift the carriage manually, and does it squeak then? Sounds like something is binding up. I'm trying to remember what was necessary to manually lift the carriage on mine (a SP10) but it can be done, as IIRC you lift it to assemble the lift arms.

 

[pattenp]

I didn't think about this when posting earlier but is it possible that a slide block is worn or missing on the carriage? The column may slide but you'd have metal on metal. Also as nehog said you may be able to lift the carrage to get at the cylinder. You may be able to use a come-along to pull it to the top of the column.

 

[EastCoast]

I believe the slider blocks are 'wore', but not completely gone.

When I first raised the lift (empty), I thought everything was great. No noises or excitment. I then realized that the left cylinder did not extend at all. The carriage had been pulled up by the cables. We unhooked the cables and then raised again. Once the right side was all the way up, I continued lifting so that the left side would lift. This is when the noises started and the carriage would not go down.

We then brought a tractor in so we could use the bucket to apply weight without getting a vechile stuck on the lift. The cylinder will only go down if the tractor is applying weight. Even then, it does not sit all the way down on the base (stays about an inch up) so the gears on the arms do not dis-engage. The other side works fine.

We also used the tractor to raise the carriage manually and there was no sign of binding, squealing, etc.

I will call the local supplier to get the sliders (since it looks like I'm taking things apart anyway), but I don't think that is the REAL issue.

How do you get the cylinder out?

Thanks
Robb

 

[EastCoast]

Well???.........figure it out?

What a major coincidence!!! I JUST put things back together LAST NIGHT!! Lifted my wife’s car with no issue, no noises, etc.!

I removed the cylinder and took it to a local machine shop. It was extremely bound up and as the guy was disassembling it, he kept saying things like ‘… that’s not good… there’s gonna be damage…’ Once we got the piston out, it turned out to be simply bound by a film of dirt & grit in the head/seals. The cylinder walls were not significantly scratched nor was there any real damage. Even after disassembled, the bottom collar (not sure the right term) was ceased onto the shaft!! He tapped it off with a brass hammer, lightly cleaned it with some emery cloth and it slid freely. The dust seal on the bottom of the cylinder had failed and we believe it must have slowly picked up debris over the years. I left it with him to hone the cylinder and replace all seals and got it back yesterday.

The dealership sold the lift basically because they thought the slider blocks were making loud screeching noises and the cost to dis-assemble & replace was not worth it. Had they replaced the blocks, the noise would not have gone away! It was not the problem. I fixed the issue for $150.

Pics to come once I finish giving it a fresh coat of paint!

Thanks for the help guy.
Robb

 

[pattenp]

What did you end up having to do to get the cylinder out?

 

[EastCoast]

We blocked the hydraulic line going to the bad cylinder and then raised the lift all the way up. The cables were attached to both sides went up. If the bad cylinder had been completely down, this would have been all that was necessary and it would have come out the bottom at this point. But since it was extended about 18-24", we had to unhook the cables and use a chain pull to raise the carriage all the way to the top of the column (an additional couple feet). This let the cylinder out from under the carriage.

Once we hooked up the repaired cylinder, we simply lowered the carriage until it matched the other side and reattached the cables. Then fully lowered the lift down over the cylinder. Bled both sides and we were in business!!

Robb

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The dealership sold the lift basically because they thought the slider blocks were making loud screeching noises and the cost to dis-assemble & replace was not worth it. Had they replaced the blocks, the noise would not have gone away! It was not the problem. I fixed the issue for $150.

Even if the dealership had known what the problem was, it would have cost way more than $150. For liability reasons, they would have called a lift repair outfit and (again for liability reasons) they would have ordered and installed a new cylinder (probably both of them.... "gotta have it with the same resistance in the cylinders, ya know") and it would have cost a bundle.

Great for you to fix it, glad it works, and glad the dealership could not or would not fix it, you got a deal as a result.

Charles