Chevelleshop has a point unless you work on uni-bodies..
having spun around 6 mustangs and now about to stary a Jag E-type its all in the approach. Only thing holding the tub of the Jag Coupe (FHC) from folding is the rocker panels which for this car are ultra important to the rigidity. Ok there is the roof but that has little chance if I were to cut the entire bottom of the car apart at one time.
Doors off one at a time and put cross bracing in where door was to keep car as square as possible. One rocker at a time. I also have a beefie 2"x2" tube runnig lenghtwise and a few crossbraces goine side to side. This will be critical as I do the qtr's and wheel wells
I have two Harbor Freight 4 wheel engine stands that were modified first for the mustangs and now the Jag. Made mounts to bolt on to the suspension in the rear and to the firewall up front. Keeps as much out of the way and open to remove/work on as possible.
When I did the mustangs I used the rearmost leafspring mount and lower portion of the front shock towers. Issues with this is when your doing the torque boxes and almost every stang I have had the pleasure working on needed rear fram rails. It becomes a shell game after a while.
Classic Jaguar as well as many other resto shops out there have some great project documentation using the rotisserie during panel replacement. All in the prep and knowing what your about to cut out prior to cutting it and not seeing your pride and joy fold like a cheap suite
does not need to be an old car to have issues..
need to make sure car will clear the cross brace of the rotisserie as well. With the harbor Freight stands and a gen 2 stang I had to ad in about 6" to the hain upright in order to get the car to twirl past the brace that connects the two stands. That connector brace is a critical structural piece if not there the likelyhood of a failure greatly incrreases (again on a non full frame car) Disclaimer this was not my project just used pic for reference
