Rotten header jamb that is stacked 2x4

[skydve76]

Flashing failed, wrapping failed, rotted the sheathing, rotted the jam. The header jam is stacked 2x4 and not the typical 6x12 Ive seen. The bottom is rotten about 1/4" deep in the middle and the others in the stack are only rotten on outside but have some flaking. How critical is this? can it be DIY or is this an extensive and $$ repair?

I was thinking sand off the junk, mold killer, paint and refinish? Instead of metal flashing going to use some wood siding. After wrapping hit everything with flex seal.

In the pics, right right side of the pic stil has sheathing, left does not. You can see the ragged water line. Dots on garage door is grease from opener jackscrew.

 

[The Cobbler]

since you have 2x4 I'm pretty sure it's the gable end of the building so there's not a lot of weight on it.
you're probably OK the way it is . you caught it in time .

 

[skydve76]

Here is what is attached to it. What do you suggest I do? Sand off rot?

 

[The Cobbler]

are you sure the header is 2x4? it is supporting trusses

 

[skydve76]

I zoned into the face. You can see the lines where the 2×4 meet. The 2nd pic is looking straight up its a stack of 2x4 unless this is a 4" thick wood...

 

[The Cobbler]

I can't really tell with your pictures, but I think I would scrape off the rot, seal it with kilz or something , address the leak issues ,and sleep well at night

 

[banananutz]

I zoned into the face. You can see the lines where the 2×4 meet. The 2nd pic is looking straight up its a stack of 2x4 unless this is a 4" thick wood...

 

[Jayman17]

That looks like a glu-lam beam to me. When you say stacked 2x4’s I thought you meant separate 2x4’s nailed together to form a header. Maybe treat the rot area, flash correctly and cover it with siding

 

[skydve76]

Sorry for my ignorance but isn't a laminated beam just a stack of 2×4 glued together?

 

[CraigStu]

It is not a gable end since we can see the ends of the trusses in one of the pics. I would be somewhat concerned but I am not sure how concerned. Even w/ all the good pictures you have provided it is still a little hard to determine how bad it is. One thing you could do to add strength would be to temporarily remove the track for the garage door opener and add plywood to the area I have outlined in green. I'd use construction adhesive and screws w/ quality 3/4 plywood.

 

[TRWham]

It is a load bearing wall, and that header looks worst in the middle where the bending stress is greatest. That you can drive a screwdriver as far as you can does not inspire confidence. I would replace it, but probably with 2 plies of LVL rather than another glulam because they will be easier to install.

This is a job for pros or at least a very advanced DIYer with some friends willing to help.

ETA:

I looked at the photos again and I see a gable above in the exterior shots, but also trusses bearing on the header in the interior shots so it's a bit contradictory unless you have some complex roof above this garage.

 

[jkuro]

As said above its a GLUE LAM header. Just replace it with another Glue Lam or LVL.

 

[Bretny]

That looks like a load supporting header to me. Idk why the builder would rely on flashing alone to protect that to begin with.

I would run the vinyl siding down over it. At this point you most likely also need to replace the wood.

 

[Bretny]

Also you can replace that header your self. You just need to support the roof near the wall and remove the header.

 

[skydve76]

On the trusses with a 2x4 to the ground from each truss?

 

[jkuro]

Yes, or create a temporary wall about two feet off the header to give yourself some working room.

 

[dutchgray]

Cut the props about 1/2" long and hammer them in tight so they are holding, recip saw round the header to cut the nails, then get it out, shove another in, nail it all back together and pull the props.

 

[skydve76]

Where is it nailed In? Into the end?

 

[skydve76]

Im going to pay to have this done, I hate doing that but the consequences of a mess up could be ruining.

 

[FredWanaker]

just choose who does the work carefully. Lots of sham artists out there.

 

[skydve76]

just choose who does the work carefully. Lots of sham artists out there.

What would be a ballpark price?

 

[Pen & Wrench]

I would look at what it would be like the day you intend to sell the property, and fix it with that in mind, to pass a home inspection. You or your heirs don't need any drama at some point in the future that you can take care of today.

 

[TRWham]

What would be a ballpark price?

I'd say these days we would get $7-10,000 depending on who reworks the siding. And you would need to hire someone else to remove and reinstall the door. You might find someone to do it for less, but we do a couple of residential beams of one kind or another every month and have a license, GL and WC insurance and know what we are doing.

 

[skydve76]

I'd say these days we would get $7-10,000 depending on who reworks the siding. And you would need to hire someone else to remove and reinstall the door. You might find someone to do it for less, but we do a couple of residential beams of one kind or another every month and have a license, GL and WC insurance and know what we are doing.

When you do these do people have much luck with insurance?

 

[skydve76]

I would look at what it would be like the day you intend to sell the property, and fix it with that in mind, to pass a home inspection. You or your heirs don't need any drama at some point in the future that you can take care of today.

Time to fix it now. I assume garage could collapse.

 

[FredWanaker]

When you do these do people have much luck with insurance?

usually insurance handles things that happen suddenly like say a branch fell, hit the siding and it caused water to get in, or A singular wind storm caused the damage. Things that happen over time like rot, slow water leaks etc., are not handled in most policies. You can speak with your agent to see what he says.

 

[TRWham]

When you do these do people have much luck with insurance?

We mostly do beams as part of a remodel or addition so insurance doesn't apply. The last garage header we did was converting from double doors to a single so, again, insurance was not in play.

 

[callcoy]

Over 30 years ago I converted our twin garage door opening to a single wide opening. I had to remove the center support, so I leveled out the span with my temporary supports. I had some 10' long 10 gauge hot rolled flat stock the same width as the height of the header. I cut and welded to the desired length. Then I through bolted it into place, with the head of the bolts ( carriage) thru large washers. This arrangement has worked well for the 30+ years I had it.