Rough opening for a door question
- Thread starter anomm701
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bluedog225
Well-known member
Yes. 1x or 2x. Whatever works. I’d use a couple of screws and some shims may be needed. And make sure you have accounted for the threshold.
Garcky
Well-known member
Threshold, yup. Check three times, then nail.
Youngandfree
Well-known member
Or raise the door up like the guy wanted to do in another thread. 
no need to block it if the casing is wide enough.heads of door jambs aren't usually nailed . spray foam, casing and done . shim between the door & jamb when you foam so the gap remains .
looks like your hinge side is just a tad low
looks like your hinge side is just a tad low
CraigStu
Well-known member
Be careful if you foam it so that the foam can move out and be trimmed. I would slide a few shims between the door and frame so that gap doesn't get closed by expanding foam. Do it now before any trim is added so it is easy to cut off the excess foam.
I'd make sure you have enough material for nailing the door trim before you just shim and foam.
bigdav160
Well-known member
Make sure the door frame is square and plumb or it will not open/close/latch properly. Insulate the open spaces.
Mikes shop
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If you are placing the door frame/ threshold right on a concrete floor/ slab that could get wet from rain, etc. I would recommend using some treated lumber 1“ x6” (actual 3/4 x 5-1/2” ) stock to set the door jamb on. The bottom of the door jambs are usually primed, but they will eventually **** up water and rot.
cut board to width of door opening, not width of door. This way depending where you place door in opening the bottom of the jambs will sit on the treated board. As far and width placement I have the board project 3/8” of an inch past the outside of the sill for caulking. I put down 3 layers of caulk on the concrete then the treated board and more caulk on top of board and set the jamb on that.
On my application the concrete walk is even with the garage slab, so I didn’t want that jamb sitting on the concrete.
On the top opening you can fill it as others had stated. Just make sure the brick molding or door trim the door came with is tight to the wall . Usually no nails in the top jamb.
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Natty Bumppo
Well-known member
That's a pretty decent gap. If you simply shim and foam you may end up having nothing for the nails to bite into when you add your casing. I'd do just as you said...add a 1x or 2x filler.
My last house - threshold at floor level. Add 1/2" cement board and tile and there is less than 3/8" between door and tile when the door is opening. If you ever want a rug or door mat inside your door I'd add a 3/4" piece of treated wood UNDER that door.
Mikes shop
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- Mar 21, 2023
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Off topic a little. You must have a big garage/ pole barn to park all those vehicles. BMW nice.
My cousin and I went to the west coast from Illinois in mid 70’s. We bought new Kawasaki 900 Z1 bikes. Took old Route 66 where we could. Two other people we kept running into on the road and camp grounds were on Beamers.
When they past us you could tell that was some fine machinery running.
Viper98912
Well-known member
D'oh!
Also, that's some pretty neat 12awg wiring you got there...
Also, that's some pretty neat 12awg wiring you got there...
andyvh1959
Well-known member
Initially I agreed to just shim and spray foam at the top to fill in the gap. But you may do better to raise the door/jamb/frame and add a rot resistant spacer under the threshold. Get the top to within 1/4 for top shims, then spray foam. A rot resistant slightly higher threshold is nothing to step over and could minimize any moisture ingress or contact with the threshold.
Also, spray foam can actually expand enough to cause the door jamb to squeeze the door stuck shut, as I found out years ago. So don't go nuts with the spray foam like I did. Use it to seal gaps and pack the rest with non expanding insulation.
Also, spray foam can actually expand enough to cause the door jamb to squeeze the door stuck shut, as I found out years ago. So don't go nuts with the spray foam like I did. Use it to seal gaps and pack the rest with non expanding insulation.