roughing in lighting wiring - LEDs & dimmer

[skipdup]

I'm about to start roughing-in the electrical in my new shop. Just want to double check - I think I understand what I'm doing...

Based on a plan from Platonic Solid, I'm doing the following...

- Qty.16 SLB2 Series LED Slim Linear High Bay, 2 Foot, 95 Watt, 12,445Lm, 5000K CCT, Dimming
- Separate on-off switch, wired normally.
- Separate dimmer switch - this one, using just the gray & purple wires.

When wiring, I plan on running the switch & lights on a 15Amp breaker and 14/2 romex.

I'll also run 18/2 solid (alarm type) wire, along side the romex, for the dimming function.

Is that all there is? Am I missing something? Everything in parallel?

Thanks,
Skip

 

[cybrdyke]

- Separate on-off switch, wired normally.
- Separate dimmer switch - this one, using just the gray & purple wires.

why separate dimmer and switch? seems like a PITA.
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[Platonic Solid]

why separate dimmer and switch? seems like a PITA.
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All fixtures can run on 1 dimmer if you don't use it for power On/Off function. Plus it's cheaper.

 

[cybrdyke]

For the cost of one dimmer switch, I'd make it 2 separate circuits, each with it's own on/off/dimmer switch. Just makes more sense to me.
6 of one, half dozen of the other....
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[ddawg16]

For a shop, I can't see the need for a dimmer....

Instead, I'd go with zones.

I have 3 zones in my garage (6 recessed cans with LED's in each zone)...a majority of the time I'm only using one zone....the one I'm working in.

It sounds like you have a big shop for that many lights. I'd divide it in zones and maybe have another ckt for just getting around. I kinda wish I had done that. The first switch with just enough light to let me get from the door to where ever I need to get to retrieve something.....like a tool.

In relative terms.....wire is cheap at this stage. Even if you only want one switch, you can wire all the zones to the one switch.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Here's another really simple 0-10VDC only $25 dimmer option. + $0.50 for a standard wall switch = $25.50

vs

95W x 16 fixtures = 1520W / 120V = 12.7A = Qty.2 8A On/Off + dimmer switches @ $70 ea. = $140

 

[skipdup]

The shop is not really big... ~40x40x12. I just wanted very, very bright.

I like 1 switch to control all the lights. The dimmer is a "just in case" I want/need to tone it down. I'm not sure how bright this will actually be. There's a chance I never use the dimmer. But if I need it, nows the time to wire for it.

This 0-10v dimmer business is new to me and throwing me for a loop. I think I understand it, but without the light fixtures here to reference, I'm not 100%.

Am I correct that I just need to add 18/2 wire to the mix?

I assume the light fixture(s) add and "read" the DC current that the dimmer regulates?

Thanks,
Skip

 

[cybrdyke]

Here's another really simple 0-10VDC only $25 dimmer option. + $0.50 for a standard wall switch = $25.50

vs

95W x 16 fixtures = 1520W / 120V = 12.7A = Qty.2 8A On/Off + dimmer switches @ $70 ea. = $140

The on/off/dimmers are $42 at the big box. Money well spent in my book to have zone control. Especially since he's got 16 10Klm fixtures at 12'.
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[yeldogt]

I'm assuming the reason for two is to use the 0-10 to control the dimming only and the switch to control the power feed? Some of the dimmers don't have enough switching capacity ?

Is that why the second dimmer referenced does not have a switch ??

I did not understand that's how they work. So you could have a couple different LED lights wired to a central timer and have separate dimmers to control the output of each ? That would be great for my new builds outside lights -- I want them all to be on the same timer.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I'm assuming the reason for two is to use the 0-10 to control the dimming only and the switch to control the power feed? Yes

Some of the dimmers don't have enough switching capacity ? Typical dimmer switching capacity is 3 to 8 amps, unlike your basic 15A wall switch.

Is that why the second dimmer referenced does not have a switch ?? Yes

I did not understand that's how they work. So you could have a couple different LED lights wired to a central timer and have separate dimmers to control the output of each ? Yes

That would be great for my new builds outside lights -- I want them all to be on the same timer.

Above answers apply only to 0-10VDC dimming.

 

[yeldogt]

Above answers apply only to 0-10VDC dimming.

So.... the lamp fixture is supplying whatever current is needed to the dimmer -- I don't see any independent power going to the second dimmer.

Can you run low volt wires -- as the OP is planning? I ask because the outdoor BEGA LED lights I am going to use have the 4 wires coming out of a cable into a junction box. How do you connect low and high volts together in the same box -- can you exit with the low volt to the dimmer and still be OK with the electrical codes.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Looks like I missed your response.

"So.... the lamp fixture is supplying whatever current is needed to the dimmer" Yes

"I don't see any independent power going to the second dimmer." Correct

"Can you run low volt wires -- as the OP is planning?" Yes

"I ask because the outdoor BEGA LED lights I am going to use have the 4 wires coming out of a cable into a junction box. How do you connect low and high volts together in the same box -- can you exit with the low volt to the dimmer and still be OK with the electrical codes."
I'm not an electrician. I have no idea what code states, but many have done exactly that with no issue.

 

[yeldogt]

Looks like I missed your response.

"So.... the lamp fixture is supplying whatever current is needed to the dimmer" Yes

"I don't see any independent power going to the second dimmer." Correct

"Can you run low volt wires -- as the OP is planning?" Yes

"I ask because the outdoor BEGA LED lights I am going to use have the 4 wires coming out of a cable into a junction box. How do you connect low and high volts together in the same box -- can you exit with the low volt to the dimmer and still be OK with the electrical codes."
I'm not an electrician. I have no idea what code states, but many have done exactly that with no issue.

Thanks -- had no idea that's how the controls worked. Is that how the dimming FL fixtures worked with the 0-10 output ? I did not understand the difference / reason for the 0-10 ... as you could get dimming ballast w/ the correct dimmer

 

[cybrdyke]

Yeldogt- the 0-10VDC control signal is created inside ballast/driver. Same in fluorescent as in LED.
The difference (and big advantage) of low voltage dimming over a regular dimming system is that you can control lots more fixtures with one controller on the low voltage system. In a regular dimming system, the controller is limited by the load.
In other words, it would not be unusual to control 40 fixtures with one low voltage dimmer. A regular line voltage dimmer might be able to handle 5 or 6. Of course it depends on the type and size of fixture....but you get the gist.
Also, low voltage systems have alot more options of controllers. Besides dimmers, you can use occupancy sensors, daylight sensors, etc....
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